Route Name |
Location |
Star Rating |
Difficulty |
Date |
●
Deception Crack
|
Central-E Casca…
> …
1
> Eight Mile Area
> Eight-Mile Rock
|
125
|
|
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Trad
|
Jun 30, 2020 · TR. An awkward angle and not ideal crack size (for me) made this tough. would like a second 'crack' at it
|
●
5.5 Crack
|
Central-E Casca…
> …
> Icicle Creek
> Barney's Rubble
|
30
|
|
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Trad
|
Jun 27, 2020 · Lead / Onsight. Wish this was longer. Good warm up climb and good passive gear.
|
●
The Cutting Edge
|
South-Central &…
> …
> Royal Columns
> Orange Sunshine area
|
|
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Trad
|
Jun 15, 2019 · Lead / Onsight. Good stemming and jamming along with some featured face climbing. Crux was definitely to bulge/slightly overhanging move at the top. There is a loose block about midway up. Placed gear ranging from BD #.4 - #3 along with a solid mid-size nut
|
●
Level Head
|
South-Central &…
> …
> Royal Columns
> Main Face
|
|
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Trad
|
Jun 15, 2019 · Lead / Onsight. Interesting Route. Felt much stiffer than 5.6. Doubles of BD .5 - 2. Used one #3
|
●
Frodo's First Step
|
N America
> …
1
2
> Smoke Bluffs
> Burgers & Fries
|
65
|
|
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Trad
|
Jun 1, 2019 · Lead / Onsight. Fun Route, standard rack. Good for beginners
|
●
Alexis Cracks Right
|
N America
> …
1
2
> Smoke Bluffs
> Alexis
|
17
|
|
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Trad
|
Jun 1, 2019 · Lead / Onsight. Okay route with a few fun moves toward the top. bring a couple BD #3
|
●
Bilbo Baggins
|
N America
> …
1
2
> Smoke Bluffs
> Burgers & Fries
|
|
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Trad
|
Jun 1, 2019 · Lead / Onsight. A bit of trickery in the middle where it is thin. Solid route (BD .75-4)
|
●
Laughing Crack
|
N America
> …
1
2
> Smoke Bluffs
> Wall Area
|
|
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Trad
|
Jun 1, 2019 · Lead / Onsight. fun route, eats mid size gear.
|
●
Clamshell Crack
|
Central-E Casca…
> …
1
> Clamshell
> Clamshell Cave
|
|
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Trad
|
May 12, 2019 · Lead / Onsight. Solid Lead for an intermediate leader. Fun middle section. Crux is the last move at the top.
|
●
X-Crack-Right Finish
|
Central-E Casca…
> …
1
> Eight Mile Area
> XY Crag (Chromosome C…
|
|
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Trad, TR
|
May 12, 2019 · Lead / Onsight. Fun route with good gear. Used 1, 2, large stopper, 3, 4, .4. Nice spot to practice fists.
|
●
5.8 Crack
|
Central-E Casca…
> …
> Icicle Creek
> Barney's Rubble
|
101
|
|
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trad, TR
|
Jun 16, 2018 · TR. Very fun route with burley moves close to the ground. Nearly off width towards the top
|
●
5.6 Crack
|
Central-E Casca…
> …
> Icicle Creek
> Barney's Rubble
|
|
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Trad, TR
|
Jun 16, 2018 · TR. Fun Route with interesting moves and positive jams. The 5.10 variation was also great
|
●
Blunt Instrument
|
Central-E Casca…
> …
1
> Lower Icicle Ca…
> Surf City
|
38
|
|
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Trad
|
May 13, 2018 · Lead / Onsight. First move up into the crack is awkward and tricky. Good gear and okay small hands make this worth doing.
|
●
Paydirt
|
Central-E Casca…
> …
1
> Lower Icicle Ca…
> Surf City
|
|
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Trad, TR
|
May 13, 2018 · Lead / Onsight. Supposedly the new leavenworth guide book calls it 5.8 due to the tricky first move. Solid small hands to fingers until the top 3rd where it disappears and gives way to some nice slab moves.
|
●
Gerbil Lies
|
Central Region
> …
> Frenchman Coulee
> Green Wall
|
14
|
|
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Trad
|
Apr 14, 2018 · Lead / Onsight. Not sure if I was on the right route. Felt MUCH stiffer than a 5.6. Good stemming, okay gear (bring the big stuff) A Few small bulges and less than desirable rock get the blood flowing.
|
●
Peaceful Warrior
|
Central Region
> …
1
> Sunshine Wall
> (c) King Pins
|
150
|
|
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sport
|
Apr 14, 2018 · Lead / Onsight. Fun warm up
|
●
X-Crack-Right Finish
|
Central-E Casca…
> …
1
> Eight Mile Area
> XY Crag (Chromosome C…
|
|
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Trad, TR
|
Oct 28, 2017 · Lead / Onsight. The better of the 3 routes. Good fun and great opportunity to practice that wider crack technique. Bring big gear.
|
●
X crack-Left Finish
|
Central-E Casca…
> …
1
> Eight Mile Area
> XY Crag (Chromosome C…
|
40
|
|
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Trad, TR
|
Oct 28, 2017 · Lead / Onsight. Okay route with Tricky Gear. Some good jamming and smearing.
|
●
Religious Fervor
|
Central Oregon
> …
1
> W Side
> (3) Catwalk Cliff
|
|
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Trad
|
Sep 15, 2017 · TR. Sitting duck or Religious Ferver
|
●
Sitting Duck
|
Central Oregon
> …
1
> W Side
> (3) Catwalk Cliff
|
|
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Trad
|
Sep 15, 2017 · TR. Sitting duck or Religious Ferver
|
●
Greasy Spoon
|
Central Oregon
> …
1
> W Side
> (3) Catwalk Cliff
|
|
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Trad
|
Sep 15, 2017 · TR.
|
●
Get Shorty
|
N America
> …
1
2
3
4
> Kinnaird Bluffs
> Whirlwind Wall
|
3
|
|
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Trad
|
Sep 2, 2017 · Lead / Onsight. Tricky gear but easy climbing. Hardly worth the effort
|
●
Frog Suicide Crack
|
N America
> …
1
2
3
4
> Kinnaird Bluffs
> Whirlwind Wall
|
|
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trad
|
Sep 2, 2017 · Lead / Onsight. Great route with varied climbing. Some crack, face moves and a little bulge at the top. Standard rack will suffice.
|
●
Invisible Man
|
N America
> …
1
2
3
4
> Kinnaird Bluffs
> Whirlwind Wall
|
4
|
|
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sport
|
Sep 2, 2017 · TR. Set top rope after leading the invisible crack. Really fun face climbing.
|
●
Invisible Crack
|
N America
> …
1
2
3
4
> Kinnaird Bluffs
> Whirlwind Wall
|
|
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Trad
|
Sep 2, 2017 · Lead / Onsight. Fun route with good gear. Sew it up or run it out. A few spicy moves on the middle. STD rack will suffice
|
●
Beckey Route (SW Face)
|
Northwest Region
> …
1
2
> Liberty Bell Group
> Liberty Bell
|
|
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
|
Aug 20, 2017 · 3 pitches. Lead / Onsight. Great route with some varied but straightforward climbing. 1 set of nuts and a single rack #.3 - #2 was sufficient. Rope drag was gnarly on pitch 3 finger traverse. Did 3 rappels off the summit to avoid down climbing. Beta is spot on
|
●
R & D
|
Central-E Casca…
> …
1
> Icicle Buttress…
> Icicle Buttress
|
|
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Trad 4 pitches
|
Aug 19, 2017 · 3 pitches. Lead / Onsight. Fun route. Ran pitch 1 and 2 together. Rope drag isn't bad if you extend pieces. Last pitch is a rope stretcher, be sure to bring lots of gear. Up to BD #3. Walk off up and left
|
●
South Arete
|
Northwest Region
> …
1
2
> Liberty Bell Group
> S Early Winters Spire
|
|
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
|
Aug 8, 2017 · Lead / Onsight. Good fun for a quick outing. First half of pitch one has the best climbing. From there it'd be easy to simul most the way with short Belays at a few spots. Belayed the Whales Back and used another parties hand line on the way down. Great Summit
|
●
Fixer Upper
|
Central-W Casca…
> …
1
> British Aisles/…
> (c) Repo II
|
42
|
|
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Trad, TR
|
Jul 4, 2017 · Lead / Onsight. Fun route. Save your big gear for the top. #.3- #3. Once on the bench, go right for easier climbing or take the face with 2 bolts of hard climbing
|
●
First Things First
|
Central-W Casca…
> …
1
> British Aisles/…
> (b) Repo I
|
102
|
|
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Trad, TR
|
Jul 4, 2017 · Lead / Onsight. Fun route with good pro. #.3 and a few small nuts down low. #1-#2 on the fist sized crack up top.
|
●
South Face
|
Central-W Casca…
> …
> Tooth
> Summer-Fall (rock)
|
|
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Trad 4 pitches
|
Jun 25, 2017 · 3 pitches. Lead / Onsight. Great outing with straightforward climbing. We simul/short roped after pitch two, past the flat sandy bench. The last pitch CatWalk offers superb exposure
|
●
The Tree Route
|
Central-E Casca…
> …
1
2
> Eight-mile Butt…
> Eight-Mile Buttress,…
|
|
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Trad 3 pitches
|
Jun 4, 2017 · Lead / Onsight. Fairly easy climbing with a few fun moves mixed in. Protects pretty well but rope drag can be an issue. Bring big gear # 1 to #5 BD + a set of nuts. Save the #5 for the 3rd pitch off width. I also tipped out a #4 for a confidence boost.
|
●
Shrimp Salad
|
Central-E Casca…
> …
1
> Clamshell
> Clamshell Cave
|
30
|
|
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Trad
|
May 28, 2017 · Lead / Onsight. Fun route with a spicy move about 20 feet off the ground. Watch for rope drag when you get to the ramp. Gear to 2", takes nuts well.
|
●
Givler's Crack
|
Central-E Casca…
> …
1
> Givler's & Magi…
> Givler's Dome
|
|
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Trad 2 pitches
|
May 28, 2017 · 3 pitches. Lead / Onsight. Fun Route with great gear and good jams. Gear to 3", takes nuts well. We split it into 3 pitches for kicks.
|
●
Zap Crack
|
Central-E Casca…
> …
1
> Playground Poin…
> Playground Point
|
53
|
|
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Trad
|
May 21, 2017 · Lead / Onsight. Pro wasn't great and route could use some cleaning. Gear up to #2 BD
|
●
Right Crack
|
Central-E Casca…
> …
1
> Mountaineer's &…
> Upper Tier
|
|
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Trad, TR
|
May 21, 2017 · Follow. Fun easy route up obvious cracks
|