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Brian Boyd > Forum Messages

Regional > Northern California
Reply: Night photos of headlamps on El Cap 10/11 and 10/13
Oct 16, 2018 Hi John - thanks for the awesome photos.  I was lucky enough once to have an unplanned bivi near the top of middle cathedral.  It was a cold, cramped, hungry night, a… View Message
Gear > Climbing Gear Discussion
Reply: Sportiva Genius sizing versus Miura (lace up)
May 9, 2018 The genius felt much tighter -- toenails digging in to me to the point where I had to tape.  Visually, when I compare the genius and the Miura, the genius actually looks w… View Message
Gear > Climbing Gear Discussion
Reply: Sportiva Genius sizing versus Miura (lace up)
May 9, 2018 I have 43 miura lace-ups in both mens and womens styles.  Brand new 43s are always uncomfortable, but get better quickly.  bought a 43 genius mail order, total misery… View Message
Regional > Colorado
Reply: Whoever took out Craig’s memorial on table mountai…
May 6, 2018 Whenever I make it to Table, I always take a moment at Craig's bench.  To strike a more positive note, here is Craig on his birthday at the summit of the Sixshooter in the… View Message
General > Training Forum
Reply: Crack Hangboard
Jan 16, 2018 As an alternative to making the crack board adjustable, you can build it to have different widths.  This layout allows me to practice different types of jams -- from thin… View Message
General > Training Forum
Reply: Crack Hangboard
Jan 15, 2018 A poor substitute for a full-on crack machine, but all I can fit in my apartment. View Message
Gear > Climbing Gear Discussion
Reply: What's the best carabiner for the Squid Stick Clip?
Feb 2, 2017 Petal spirits work well for me, Adam. View Message
General > Trad Climbing
Reply: Valley Giant Issues
Jan 17, 2017 Hey Matt -- sorry you're unhappy. My $0.02: I have two nines and a twelve. All of varying vintages; one 9 and the 12 are toothed, and the other 9 is smooth. I've seen a mix… View Message
General > General Climbing
Reply: The deadly ATC
Jan 8, 2017 Mike Anderson was a local EMT who told me this story. Anyone know him? I lost touch with him years ago. View Message
General > Training Forum
Reply: Crack Machine Texture Ideas
Apr 22, 2016 This texture was done with multiple coats of deck paint mixed with sand. As others have said, only recommended if you wish to incorporate blood loss and skin grafts into your… View Message
General > Injuries and Accidents
Reply: Finger injury question
Apr 3, 2016 Thanks Sam! Ps: I have a copy of your exotic rock guidebook -- enjoyed the write up of Hong Kong and other areas. Cool stuff! View Message
General > Injuries and Accidents
Finger injury question
Apr 3, 2016 Hi all! I was on my last route of the day, cranking on a square-ish to slopey edge, and felt mild pain in the knuckle of my middle finger. No swelling, but very limited mobil… View Message
Regional > Colorado
Eldo prankster
Nov 13, 2015 We climbed yellow spur Tuesday afternoon. When we got down, someone stuffed a bunch of rocks in one of our packs, then added a bunch of dirt to one of the pockets. Is that a… View Message
Gear > Climbing Gear Discussion
Reply: Western Mountaineering Rectangular Shaped Bags
Nov 11, 2015 I've got a sequoia bag -- it is pretty big, but it is also quite luxurious. I can't get comfy in a mummy, and it was a great purchase for me. Mine is overstuffed, which buys… View Message
Regional > International
Reply: Chamonix mountain guide
Aug 17, 2015 I climbed with Stefane Comte when I was in Cham last month -- if you google him, you'll get his FB page. Great attitude, super guy. View Message
General > Training Forum
Reply: Power Endurance which training protocol is your f…
Jul 9, 2015 I've graduated from 4x4 to 6x8, and find the heart rate monitor helpful to get the most from the cardio aspect -- during a set, I can speed up, or slow down, to tweak my HR. I… View Message
Regional > Colorado
Need a vehicle in Denver for three months -- suggestions?
May 10, 2015 Hi all! I am going to be working in Denver for three months (mid October to mid January) and will need a car. Ideally big enough to car camp out of for weekend trips. weighi… View Message
General > Training Forum
Reply: Opinions on the Armaid?
Apr 25, 2015 I had severe tendinitis problems -- to the point where I had to stop climbing for several months. I used the aramid in conjunction with exercises, deep tissue massage, and ice… View Message
Regional > International
Reply: Climbing Partner in Hong Kong this Spring
Mar 15, 2015 Elisa, hongkongclimbing.com has a partner forum. There is a FB group as well. It's set up as a closed group, so you have to join before you can post. View Message
Regional > International
Reply: Visiting Hong Kong would love to climb!
Aug 24, 2014 Hey! Weather looks grim for the next several days, sadly. Happy to show you around otherwise. View Message
Regional > Arizona & New Mexico
Reply: "Best" offwidth AZ?
Apr 30, 2014 Sullivan's canyon: four wide cracks side by side in the hot spot area, ranging from 4 to 12 inches. sword of Damocles is 5.11 and the smallest, potluck is 10b, and takes valle… View Message
Gear > Climbing Gear Discussion
Reply: wired bliss tcus vs metolius tcus
Apr 14, 2011 In terms of customer service, Wired Bliss recently reslung all of my old cams. They were fast, friendly, and did an excellent job. View Message
General > General Climbing
Reply: Woody for Crack Climbing
Mar 2, 2010 roof crack more roof crack still more roof crack View Message
Regional > Arizona & New Mexico
Reply: Climbing Sedona sandstone after rain
Feb 2, 2010 Hi Nate, If you use the Flagstaff forecast for The Overlook, you are looking at 30% chance of rain/snow on both Saturday and Sunday, lows in the 20s at night, warming up to a… View Message
Regional > Arizona & New Mexico
Reply: crack rack at rocks and ropes
Jun 5, 2009 Some more cave shots: Also, I have plans for building a crack hangboard: Instructions are here: briankboyd.com/climb/WPages… View Message
Regional > Arizona & New Mexico
Reply: crack rack at rocks and ropes
Jun 3, 2009 Yep. And, it's closer than the Planet Rock cracks you posted ;) View Message
Regional > Arizona & New Mexico
Reply: crack rack at rocks and ropes
Jun 3, 2009 Jon, You need one of these: View Message
Regional > Arizona & New Mexico
Reply: shady climbing around flagstaff
May 19, 2009 Hi Jon, We climbed at the Pit on Sunday, and were in the shade all day. Started out in the Oven, then over to Lost in the Woods. By the time we came back, most of Swiss Towe… View Message
Regional > Arizona & New Mexico
Reply: Is the river dried up at Jacks Canyon?
Mar 13, 2009 Genesis and Mighty Morphin were dry the other day, but everything else was submerged, as far right as Sandman. View Message
Regional > Arizona & New Mexico
Reply: Thinking about the King Dome.....
Mar 13, 2009 Susan, I walked the whole road last year with a saw and lopers, so it's hopefully a little better. My first time there I got massive desert pinstriping on a brand new truck.… View Message
Regional > Arizona & New Mexico
Reply: Paradise Forks in the winter?
Jan 28, 2009 Marc, Average temps are mid-30s this time of year, with daytime highs in the 40s. Sunny days can be great all around Flag, and miserable if its cloudy, or when your route goe… View Message
Regional > Arizona & New Mexico
Reply: Trail-blockers Rant - Sedona Area
Jan 7, 2009 Hey Erik, I can see where those sticks might throw you off. After all, isn't the norm in Flagstaff to block trails using a sign that says 'Rattlesnakes'? Perhaps Sedona coul… View Message
General > General Climbing
Reply: Toprope Self belay - best device and technique?
Nov 17, 2008 Rob, No photos -- sorry -- but this is how I set up my self-belay: locking biner connects mini-trax into my belay loop. two biners connect the mini-trax locker into my chest… View Message
Regional > Arizona & New Mexico
Reply: Two Bolt Anchors Will Save Paradise Forks Cliff Top
Dec 4, 2007 First, a side note: The forks is a designated wilderness area. I spoke with a ranger about rap anchors, who indicated that the wilderness boundary is the cliff face. Technica… View Message
Regional > Arizona & New Mexico
Reply: Two Bolt Anchors Will Save Paradise Forks Cliff Top
Dec 2, 2007 A lengthy discussion on this topic last year over on rc.com, after two rap bolts were placed and quickly chopped: rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/fo… View Message