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Oct 8, 2016
^^^ No. Don't traverse left at the headwall, up and right on steep bolted (2?) .11a or b or so. Sho… View Comment
Jan 11, 2016
FA unknown 1970's? FFA 1986 View Comment
Jan 11, 2016
What about the line to the right? View Comment
Mar 24, 2014
Where's the little whipper I took? That's what we want to see haha View Comment
Mar 8, 2014
41 has 3 sites I know about between Mbay and Atascadero. 1) limestone area just west off the summit wit… View Comment
Sep 9, 2013
you can stay out of the chimney for the high test (bolt 3) View Comment
Sep 9, 2013
second bolt clip, undercling right to stance, mono move up from stance is the 5.11 the move up and left… View Comment
May 24, 2013
fields of fire near top View Comment
Apr 26, 2013
teens and young adults bear disproportionate share of std's View Comment
Jan 26, 2013
I'll try to be brief: Only Way to Fly was a one bolt climb that, after grabbing the jug-crack, veered up… View Comment
Jan 6, 2013
lost a gray Alien here on 1-4-13 View Comment
Oct 23, 2012
11.d is fair if you lead the roof without beta, but it is one of those routes that gets easier with beta or… View Comment
Sep 20, 2012
FA was Ed Keefe back around 1990. He borrowed my bolt kit for this and I should not of lent it out. Bolt… View Comment
Mar 11, 2012
Regarding the name, every pregnant woman who plans a vaginal birth has to contend with the fact that she wi… View Comment
Mar 8, 2012
fa Ken Klis, Nate Sears hand drilled on-sight old school by me, forgot my hammer used a rock named in… View Comment
Feb 25, 2012
Is that steep or low angle? How long is it? View Comment
Feb 17, 2012
fa (toprope) I did it around 1986, named it slimy not Slippery, the hole was damp -- but that don't mean ta… View Comment
Feb 3, 2012
Hollywood View Comment
Feb 2, 2012
I originally cleaned and led this without bolts, around 1988 or so. "ski" placed the bolts shortly after. View Comment
Dec 31, 2011
If we could get legal access I'd like to try to climb there some day! View Comment
Jun 4, 2011
I climbed MAN IN THE MIDDLE yesterday and expected it to be much more refined. View Comment
May 4, 2011
Regarding User Name Priapism, this is a persistent, usually painful, erection that lasts for more than four… View Comment
Mar 28, 2011
Craig Tatum and Claude Fiddler told me about this route in the mid-80's, and called it Dragrace. Down wi… View Comment
Feb 11, 2011
Those are mine. Need them back asap. View Comment
Feb 16, 2009
Original Name: Dead Rat's Crack (funny how names morph over time...) fa circa 1971 led by Richard Pfost… View Comment
Jul 19, 2008
SB locals took me there back in 1987 and were calling it Pakalolo. View Comment
Sep 17, 2007
My sometimes unreliable memory recalls Rick Piggot telling me that it had already been freed before Bachar'… View Comment
Feb 21, 2006
Climb past 2 bolts just right of Civilized Evil, at about .11a, then relatively easy ground to 3rd bolt, co… View Comment
Feb 21, 2006
The complete independent line climbs the right side of first 3 bolts (to the ledge). Climbing left of the b… View Comment
Apr 20, 2005
Hold off John. Your track record clearly indicates your inability to wisely add bolts where they did not ex… View Comment
Mar 17, 2005
I never inhaled. Thanks for spelling my last name correctly. View Comment
Oct 17, 2004
3 bolts on original route, 2 at start and one way up high and left through some runout danger (never seen t… View Comment
Feb 2, 2004
Yos Crack, 5.10c ***** (new second pitch too)Shemp, 5.11d ****OW, 5.10d ***Smear Some More, 5.11a *** Patig… View Comment