| Route Name |
Location |
Star Rating |
Difficulty |
Date |
|
●
Save the Wails
|
Southern-Wester…
> Southern Sierra…
> Dome Rock
|
|
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Sport
|
|
Apr 6, 2024 · Lead / Redpoint. FA with herb Laeger 1997.
|
|
●
Scarface
|
Tahquitz & Suic…
> …
> (g) W Face
> W Face - Left Side
|
|
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Trad
|
|
Dec 9, 2021 · Lead / Redpoint. Summer 1993(?) 1st go I took the flyer getting up to the third bolt. I got geeked, lost my composure, and biffed it. That one cooked me for the day, came back and sent about a week later.
|
|
●
The Gold Standard
|
Southern-Wester…
> …
> Courtright Rese…
> Voyager Rock
|
|
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Sport, Alpine
|
|
Aug 27, 2021 · Lead. FA: 09/1990
|
|
●
Coarse and Buggy
|
Joshua Tree NP
> …
1
2
> Dihedral Rock
> Dihedral Rock - E Face
|
|
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Trad
|
|
Dec 12, 2020 · Lead / Onsight. Must have been around 1990 with Hugh Smith
|
|
●
The Sowsuckle
|
Joshua Tree NP
> …
1
2
> Dihedral Rock
> Dihedral Rock - E Face
|
|
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Trad
|
|
Nov 24, 2020 · Lead / Onsight. Did this one in 1999. Mayville had told me to do it. I took that as an order. When Patty Miklus, Bruce Bourassa, and I walked up to it I'd never laid eyes on it.
|
|
●
Top Secret
|
Southern-Wester…
> …
1
2
> S Face
> Upper Tier
|
|
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Trad, Alpine 2 pitches
|
|
Nov 13, 2020 · Lead / Onsight. Sometime early '90's with Herb Laeger.
FWIW Herb liked climbing with double ropes. This will become evident when you do this climb.
|
|
●
Wardance
|
Southern-Wester…
> …
1
2
> S Face
> Upper Tier
|
|
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Trad, Alpine
|
|
Nov 13, 2020 · 2 pitches. Lead / Flash. First time I did this was mid 90's with Herb Laeger. It was an instant favorite, and I did that pitch just about every time I was up at those routes which, over the years, was a lot of times. FWIW it's a two pitch climb. I'll explain in the comments.
|
|
●
Hang 'Em High
|
Joshua Tree NP
> …
1
> Split Rocks East
> Future Games Rock
|
|
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Trad
|
|
Nov 5, 2020 · Lead / Redpoint. 1990 · Bolted on lead with Jan and Herb, but took a few more visits to get the redpoint. Hard.
|
|
●
Seizure
|
Joshua Tree NP
> …
1
> Split Rocks West
> Rubicon Formation
|
|
5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Trad
|
|
Nov 4, 2020 · Lead / Redpoint. FA Oct 1988 with Charlie Crist. I TR'd this one first, didn't want to start drilling bolts in that face until I knew it would go. It might have been best left as a tr anyway, but wtf. Done on lead from kooky hooks, opposed and that sort of stuff.
|
|
●
Insomnia
|
Tahquitz & Suic…
> …
> (l) Buttress of…
> Buttress of Cracks -…
|
|
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Trad
|
|
Nov 2, 2020 · Lead / Flash. 1990? First go, but I'd watched lots of people do it before I took my shot. An incredible piece of rock...
|
|
●
Uncertainty Principle
|
San Diego County
> …
> Mt Woodson
> Uncertainty Principle…
|
|
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
TR
|
|
Oct 20, 2020 · TR. First go, TR, 1990. Later that day a guy strung a rope down it with some overhand loops tied in it. He lead, clipping the loops as he climbed.
|
|
●
Middle Age Crazy
|
Joshua Tree NP
> …
1
2
3
4
> S Astro Dome
> S Astro Dome - Northe…
|
|
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Trad
|
|
Oct 15, 2020 · Lead / Onsight. I'm with Bob in the comments. One of the best. 1998 with Guy Keesee.
|
|
●
Games Without Frontiers
|
Joshua Tree NP
> …
1
> Split Rocks East
> Future Games Rock
|
|
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Trad
|
|
Oct 15, 2020 · Lead / Redpoint. Didn't TR. Worked it GU. '92 w Jan McCollum. 2nd lead. Like fun only different.
|
|
●
Warrior Eagle
|
Joshua Tree NP
> …
1
> Grey Giant Area
> Castle
|
|
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Trad
|
|
Oct 15, 2020 · Lead / Onsight. Did this in 1996 with Yoho and Rondo. Very satisfying 1st try.
|
|
●
Stand and Deliver (aka Span…
|
Joshua Tree NP
> …
> Outback
> Rock Hudson
|
|
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Trad
|
|
Oct 15, 2020 · Lead / Redpoint. First time was in 1992. Fell off the first bit just after clipping the bolt. Then sent. Too much fun
|
|
●
Carson-Kodas Arete
|
Southern-Wester…
> …
1
2
> S Face
> Upper Tier
|
|
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Trad, Alpine 2 pitches
|
|
Sep 14, 2020 · 1 pitch. Lead / Onsight. I did this one a few times. 1st time 1992. It's 1 pitch, not 2. Approach by another route or rap in.
|
|
●
Smiladon
|
Southern-Wester…
> …
> Courtright Rese…
> Tiger Wall
|
|
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Sport, TR
|
|
Sep 13, 2020 · Lead / Redpoint. Climbed in 1996. Three tries. Great 1 pitch climb. Not sport.
|
|
●
The Pirate
|
Tahquitz & Suic…
> …
> (l) Buttress of…
> Buttress of Cracks -…
|
|
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Trad 2 pitches
|
|
Sep 13, 2020 · Lead / Redpoint. Summer, 1994. This one's a bugger. Took some work, finally got it. Very rewarding.
|
|
●
Mescalito
|
Yosemite NP
> …
1
> B. El Capitan
> 3. Southeast Face
|
|
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a A3
Trad, Aid 26 pitches
|
|
Sep 13, 2020 · Lead / Onsight. Climbed in October 2002, swung leads with Rob Brown. Great climb.
|
|
●
Ionic Strength
|
Joshua Tree NP
> …
1
> Atom Smasher Area
> Atom Smasher Boulders
|
|
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Trad
|
|
Sep 1, 2020 · Lead / Redpoint. Did this one with Rob Brown in 1997
|
|
●
Mt. Harrington, North Ridge
|
Sequoia & Kings…
> Gorge of Despair
> Mt Harrington
|
|
4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
Trad
|
|
Feb 7, 2011 · With Guy Keesee 1992
|
|
●
Prow of Cobra
|
Sequoia & Kings…
> Gorge of Despair
> Cobra Turret
|
|
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Trad 7 pitches
|
|
Feb 4, 2011 · June 1992 with Guy Keesee. Really fun climb.
|
|
●
From Afar
|
Sequoia & Kings…
> Gorge of Despair
> Cobra Turret
|
|
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Trad 2 pitches
|
|
Feb 3, 2011 · FA with Guy Keesee, spring 1992.
|
|
●
Despairadoes
|
Sequoia & Kings…
> Gorge of Despair
> Silver Turret
|
|
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Trad 8 pitches
|
|
Feb 3, 2011 · FA 7-1996 with Chelsea Griffie
|
|
●
Scirocco
|
Southern-Wester…
> …
> Needles
> Sorcerer
|
|
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sport
|
|
Sep 16, 2002 · Lead / Flash. A fine day climbing with Erik Eriksson.
|
|
●
The Chameleon
|
Joshua Tree NP
> …
1
> Sentinel
> Sentinel - W Face
|
|
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Trad
|
|
Sep 15, 1998 · Lead / Onsight. A fantastic pitch. You're far from done when you're past the crux.
|
|
●
NE Couloir to East Ridge
|
High Sierra
> 07 - Humphreys…
> Mt Humphreys
|
|
Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c Steep Snow
Trad, Snow, Alpine
|
|
Apr 1, 1995 · Solo.
|
|
●
Duty Now for the Future
|
Southern-Wester…
> …
> Needles
> Sorcerer
|
|
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Trad 2 pitches
|
|
Sep 24, 1993 · 1 pitch. Lead / Onsight. It's 1 pitch, with a 5.7 approach. If you biff it at the top you'll just punch a hole in the sky.
|
|
●
Davy Jones' Locker
|
Southern-Wester…
> …
> Needles
> Sorcerer
|
|
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Trad 2 pitches
|
|
Sep 24, 1993 · 1 pitch. Lead / Redpoint. Two burns. Read it wrong on-sight. Finished it, cleaned it, sent it.
|
|
●
By Jupiter, There are Rings…
|
Southern-Wester…
> …
> Courtright Rese…
> Voyager Rock
|
|
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
|
|
Aug 1, 1989 · FA. All clean on lead. I did two subsequent ascents over the years with other partners including Brent Inghram, Charlie Crist, Jan and Rachel McCollum.
|
|
●
Seam Stress
|
Southern-Wester…
> …
> Courtright Rese…
> Voyager Rock
|
|
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Trad, Alpine
|
|
Sep 21, 1988 · Lead / Redpoint. FA
|
|
●
Hot Rocks
|
Joshua Tree NP
> …
> Outback
> Rock Hudson
|
|
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Trad
|
|
Sep 20, 1983 · Lead / Onsight. 1983? Wandering around with Charlie Crist. No guidebook. Saw it, climbed it.
|
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