| Route Name |
Location |
Star Rating |
Difficulty |
Date |
|
●
Sweet Thin
|
Southern Nevada
> …
> (11) Juniper Ca…
> Brownstone Wall
|
|
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Trad 7 pitches
|
|
Apr 3, 2024 · Follow. Really unique and spectacular climb. Did the first two pitches of Mayday instead of starting Armitron. So the third pitch was really fun, and fourth pitch was a spectacular, thin and wobbly and hollow sounding flake.
|
|
●
Right Water Crack
|
Yosemite NP
> …
> Lembert Dome
> W Face
|
|
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Trad
|
|
Oct 17, 2023 · Follow. Easier glass chimney
|
|
●
Right Water Crack
|
Yosemite NP
> …
> Lembert Dome
> W Face
|
|
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Trad
|
|
Oct 17, 2023 · Follow. Easier glass chimney
|
|
●
Left Water Crack
|
Yosemite NP
> …
> Lembert Dome
> W Face
|
|
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Trad 2 pitches
|
|
Oct 17, 2023 · Follow. Like a glass chimney
|
|
●
East Buttress
|
Yosemite NP
> …
1
> P. Cathedral Area
> 6. Middle Cathedral Rock
|
|
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b A0
Trad, Aid 11 pitches
|
|
Oct 16, 2023 · Follow. Just amazing all the way up. Fell once bc I got my right foot on top of a flake when I should have kept it on the face during a layback. No idea what pitch bc we linked a bunch. But damn. So fun. We were third in line after meeting at 6am and driving over. Good to remember
|
|
●
Haley's Comet
|
Yosemite NP
> …
1
> C. El Cap Picni…
> 5. Manure Pile Buttre…
|
|
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Trad
|
|
Oct 15, 2023 · Follow. Came off about 15' up--some really thin moments there. But very thoughtful climbing
|
|
●
Jump for Joy
|
Yosemite NP
> …
1
> C. El Cap Picni…
> 5. Manure Pile Buttre…
|
|
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Trad, TR
|
|
Oct 15, 2023 · Follow. Clean follow but had to think a little at the bottom. Made some big reaches, like the name suggests. Like to a tennis ball sized rounded knob at the top of the first bowl. It too hard after that.
|
|
●
Dynamic Doubles
|
Yosemite NP
> …
1
> C. El Cap Picni…
> 5. Manure Pile Buttre…
|
|
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Trad 2 pitches
|
|
Oct 15, 2023 · Follow. Filled it clean. A couple of thin moments but very fun
|
|
●
The Nutcracker Suite (aka N…
|
Yosemite NP
> …
1
> C. El Cap Picni…
> 5. Manure Pile Buttre…
|
|
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trad 5 pitches
|
|
Oct 15, 2023 · Follow. Super fun. Did not do the first two pitches: passed a large party by going right and getting on "Double " something.
One fall, at start of final pitch getting onto the bulge. Got my right foot onto the step but could not quite step up on it.
|
|
●
Prehistoric Extermination
|
Red River Gorge
> Muir Valley
> Land Before Time Wall
|
|
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sport
|
|
Sep 24, 2023 · Lead / Redpoint. Easy but very fun for the grade.
|
|
●
Watering Hole
|
Red River Gorge
> Muir Valley
> Land Before Time Wall
|
|
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sport
|
|
Sep 24, 2023 · TR. One hang below the crux above the ledge. Not too bad to get there. Above the ledge isn't too bad, but there is a kind of blind slot for your left hand to the left side of the last bolt or actually next to last bolt.
|
|
●
Lightly Salted
|
Red River Gorge
> Pendergrass-Mur…
> Crossroads
|
|
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sport
|
|
Sep 23, 2023 · Lead / Onsight. Fun slab not too scary
|
|
●
Turkey Crossing
|
Red River Gorge
> Pendergrass-Mur…
> Crossroads
|
|
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Trad
|
|
Sep 23, 2023 · Lead / Onsight. Sewed it up: 3#2, 2x#3, 2x#4, could have used a five. Had it but didn't use it.
Fun climb, good fist jams, all the way, and decent slabby crimps for right fingers and toes
|
|
●
Coprolite
|
Red River Gorge
> Muir Valley
> Land Before Time Wall
|
182
|
|
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sport
|
|
Jun 14, 2023 · Lead. Harder than 5.8, as many of the commenters point out it was nice to have a long reach for the last move, where it gets a little blank, but the top is still pretty smooth even at that throw. Also, tricky below, with lots of shallow pockets. There is chalk all over this one from left to right from people trying to figure out how to get out.
|
|
●
Roadside Attraction
|
Red River Gorge
> Natural Bridge…
> Graining Fork Nature…
|
|
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Trad 2 pitches
|
|
Jun 13, 2023 · Lead / Fell/Hung. Would have used a couple of more number twos for sure. Used and under cam number one instead. Also: #4 and maybe even would have used something bigger in that big gap if I'm feeling tired. Very fun climb tho
|
|
●
Gumby Land
|
Red River Gorge
> Natural Bridge…
> Graining Fork Nature…
|
|
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Trad
|
|
Jun 13, 2023 · Lead / Onsight. Fun feeling of exposure on this morning. Would have probably used a number five or even six at the top. #1,2,3,4, .3 in a pod at the top
|
|
●
C Sharp or B Flat
|
Red River Gorge
> Natural Bridge…
> Graining Fork Nature…
|
|
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sport
|
|
Jun 13, 2023 · Lead. Takes an extra long stick clip, longer than our beta stick. I pulled up with my left toe in the small divot, and then somehow got my right toe behind me and stood up. It's a little thin toward the top or a 5.7. You can also move right, almost below, the flake for Gumby to the right, and then walk left on the ledge.
|
|
●
Boltergeist
|
Red River Gorge
> Muir Valley
> Hideout
|
|
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Sport
|
|
Jun 13, 2023 · Follow. For my height, there are better start holds higher than the small rails that always get chalked up here. At bolt 4(?) don't go so high your right foot is in the bottom of the V shaped crack-start going left before then.
|
|
●
Strawberry Shortcake
|
Red River Gorge
> Natural Bridge…
> Graining Fork Nature…
|
|
18
|
|
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Trad
|
|
Jun 12, 2023 · Lead. Very wandering line. Don't follow the first crack more than half way. Have done the start three different ways. Today, with right hand jammed and left on a small hold.
|
|
●
Dance of the Druids
|
Red River Gorge
> Muir Valley
> Hideout
|
|
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sport
|
|
Jun 12, 2023 · Lead. Above the ledge, started way right to get on the thin rail then walked left of the rope to start on the small nibs. Trust the feet
|
|
●
Shock and Awe
|
Red River Gorge
> Muir Valley
> Hideout
|
|
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Trad
|
|
Jun 12, 2023 · Follow. Cleaning up from JT
|
|
●
Ohio Climbing
|
Red River Gorge
> Muir Valley
> Bruise Brothers Wall
|
|
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sport
|
|
Jun 12, 2023 · Lead.
|
|
●
Put the Best Foot Forward
|
Red River Gorge
> Muir Valley
> Bruise Brothers Wall
|
|
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trad, Sport
|
|
Jun 12, 2023 · Lead.
|
|
●
Kentucky Pinstripe
|
Red River Gorge
> Natural Bridge…
> Global Village
|
|
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sport
|
|
Apr 5, 2023 · Lead / Fell/Hung. I figured it out, but I took two falls above gear between the second and third bolts. The beta is tricky from bolts 1-3, much easier above, but cool.
Below bolt 1, saw a guy go for the nice left hold at the bottom of that bulge above the ledge and grab a right very close to it, so almost right on the arete when pulling up their right foot to the ledge.
Once on the face, get a tentative right hold and balance while bumping left hand up the arete.
Below bolt 3, I think I had a left in the Gaston and a right on a face-high crimp with left foot below center and right toe a little higher, less certain. Also saw a guy get a tentative right hold and then bump hight left on the arete. I might have tried this too.
Both videos showed people struggle, so I don't feel so bad. It's hard to suss.
|
|
●
Father and Son
|
Red River Gorge
> Natural Bridge…
> Global Village
|
|
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Trad
|
|
Apr 5, 2023 · Lead / Redpoint. This one always seems to make me nervous. Fiddling the gear just make me tired and I think I protect it differently every time. Stuck a .75 low to keep me from tumbling and then a .3 one move up I think. Two nuts along the way. Two #1s. A .5 another .75.
|
|
●
Baccaus Goes Climbing
|
Red River Gorge
> Muir Valley
> Sunnyside
|
|
12
|
|
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trad
|
|
Apr 4, 2023 · TR. Fun chimney squeezing. Placed A #4 up high just to make the step out feel better. Good fist and hand jam, left hand. Agree with the comment that #6 would go well here to help commit to the chimney--it's a huge gap down low.
|
|
●
Kokopeli's Dream
|
Red River Gorge
> Muir Valley
> Sunnyside
|
|
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sport
|
|
Apr 4, 2023 · Lead / Redpoint. Delicate at the bottom but the feet hold. Just go slowly
|
|
●
Velveteen
|
Red River Gorge
> Muir Valley
> Sunnyside
|
|
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Trad
|
|
Apr 4, 2023 · Lead / Onsight. Fun, easy. We cleaned and lowered from anchor and then toproped the 5.8 to the right of Kokopelli.
|
|
●
Kampsight
|
Red River Gorge
> Natural Bridge…
> Graining Fork Nature…
|
|
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sport
|
|
Apr 3, 2023 · Lead / Fell/Hung. One fall, long hang getting up, got to trust move above the last part below the chain
|
|
●
Five Finger Discount
|
Red River Gorge
> Natural Bridge…
> Graining Fork Nature…
|
|
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trad
|
|
Apr 3, 2023 · Follow. Tough to protect crux? In layback mode there
|
|
●
Fadda
|
Red River Gorge
> Natural Bridge…
> Graining Fork Nature…
|
|
140
|
|
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sport
|
|
Apr 3, 2023 · Follow.
|
|
●
All Cows Eat Grass
|
Red River Gorge
> Natural Bridge…
> Graining Fork Nature…
|
|
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sport
|
|
Apr 3, 2023 · Lead.
|
|
●
AWOL
|
Red River Gorge
> Natural Bridge…
> Graining Fork Nature…
|
|
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sport
|
|
Apr 2, 2023 · Follow. Bolt to bolt on TR. enduro, hard for 10A
|
|
●
Fadda
|
Red River Gorge
> Natural Bridge…
> Graining Fork Nature…
|
|
140
|
|
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sport
|
|
Apr 2, 2023 · Lead / Fell/Hung.
|
|
●
27 Years of Climbing
|
Red River Gorge
> Pendergrass-Mur…
> Gallery
|
|
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sport
|
|
Nov 5, 2022 · Lead / Redpoint. So fun, great pockets. Definitely stick clip because the bottom is a little funny with some sloping holds. The kick at the end is a little Vallancey, picking the right path to pull.
|
|
●
Road Rash
|
Red River Gorge
> Pendergrass-Mur…
> Velo Crag
|
|
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sport
|
|
Nov 5, 2022 · TR. First top rope send of this. Fingers are stronger since last year. Thin section is only a few moves and rails at end are solid.
|
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