| Route Name |
Location |
Star Rating |
Difficulty |
Date |
|
●
Cow Crack
|
Southeast Utah
> Indian Creek
> Trick or Treat Wall
|
|
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Trad
|
|
Apr 11, 2024 · Lead / Flash. With Chad.
Tape gloves to maximize thin hand surface area + moccs to toe jam into pods + quickly punching through the crux = surprisingly leisurely cruise up. Brought up 10 reds but maybe had 3 with me at the chains.
|
|
●
Overthruster
|
Southeast Utah
> Indian Creek
> Trick or Treat Wall
|
|
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Trad
|
|
Apr 11, 2024 · Lead / Flash. With Chad.
Ocun gloves made the first section (reds) less secure but paid off in blue roof above.
|
|
●
Season of the Witch
|
Southeast Utah
> Indian Creek
> Trick or Treat Wall
|
|
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Trad
|
|
Apr 11, 2024 · Lead / Flash. With Chad.
BD Grandstones eliminate any possibility of using either crack. Had to summon my bouldering spirit and lay back through the crux.
|
|
●
Gambit
|
Boulder
> Eldorado Canyon SP
> Shirt Tail Peak
|
|
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trad 5 pitches
|
|
Mar 31, 2024 · Follow. With John.
Amazing climb from position to movement. Adventurous route finding combined with slightly spicy Eldo runout. The best 5.8 in the canyon.
|
|
●
Climb Of The Century
|
Boulder
> …
> Rincon
> Rincon - L of Center…
|
|
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Trad
|
|
Mar 30, 2024 · Lead / Redpoint. With Alex.
Neither of us brought a full rack just supplemental smaller pieces : nothing else was needed.
|
|
●
Semi -Automatic
|
Golden
> Clear Creek Canyon
> Armory
|
|
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Trad
|
|
Mar 23, 2024 · Lead / Redpoint. Same day RP.
Reminded of climbing OW tactics in dihedrals again. Got a right knee scum onto a Gaston and the right foot on a crimp perpendicular and below it- felt like a kneebar. Got my left hip/ass onto the opposite wall and locked myself in.
Upper moves on thin hands/fingers stabilized by lovely stems. Would give more stars if it was longer.
|
|
●
Handicapable
|
Golden
> Clear Creek Canyon
> Armory
|
|
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sport
|
|
Mar 23, 2024 · Lead / Redpoint. Same day RP - been a minute since I’ve done that.
|
|
●
Ruper
|
Boulder
> …
> Redgarden Wall
> Redgarden - Tower One
|
|
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trad 6 pitches
|
|
Mar 23, 2024 · Lead / Onsight. Lead every pitch with Will. Traverses the most memorable. Probably a little spooky for a first time leader.
|
|
●
The Serpent
|
Boulder
> …
> Redgarden Wall
> Redgarden - Tower Two
|
|
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Trad
|
|
Mar 10, 2024 · Lead / Onsight. On sight every pitch with John. Rover into Ruper to reach the ledge.
Light on the placements heavy on the Jedi mind tricks.
5.8 holds if you can find them.
Gear placements either nonexistent or in paper mache rock.
Stellar movement in the void.
|
|
●
The Yellow Spur
|
Boulder
> …
> Redgarden Wall
> Redgarden - Tower One
|
|
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Trad 6 pitches
|
|
Mar 6, 2024 · Lead / Onsight. With Stu. Followed P2,4,6. Onsighted P1 (5.10 OG start),3,5 (OG traverse).
Cold crimpy start to a blustery sunny exposed top out. P5 thought provoking face into runout airy traverse to the arete- made a smirk turn into a smile. Lovely
|
|
●
C'est La Vie
|
Boulder
> …
> Redgarden Wall
> Redgarden - S Buttress
|
|
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Trad 3 pitches
|
|
Mar 2, 2024 · 2 pitches. Lead / Redpoint. Same day RP with Athena. Followed P1. Lead P2. Watched Athena onsight with a shoulder/hip scum.
Ended up getting a left armbar off the slopey side pull. Left hand in the corner which turned into a sort of lightbulb changer and elbow into the side pull. Right hand on the slopey circular crimp. Right foot on the crystal. Twist and turn left shoulder into the wall until reaching up with right hand to two finger crimp. Pop that left foot into the dimpled corner and use it to slot left hand into the V.
OW movement in an open faced book.
|
|
●
Supremacy Crack
|
Boulder
> Eldorado Canyon SP
> Supremacy Rock
|
|
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Trad
|
|
Mar 2, 2024 · Lead / Onsight. Thin hands up to a #1. Plenty of feet. Bouldery face finish. Hardest trad onsight to date
|
|
●
Wunsch's Dihedral
|
S Platte
> Cathedral Spire…
> Cynical Pinnacle
|
|
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a C0
Trad, Aid 4 pitches
|
|
Feb 21, 2024 · Lead / Onsight. Onsighted 1&3. Clean follow on 2. Aid ladder up to summit. With Chad.
Unrelenting jams, laybacks, finger locks, thin hands, stems on smears, and occasional face holds and underclings. Just keep punching between the rests and you’ll finish off the monstrous route. Incredible.
|
|
●
Helicopter
|
Morrison/Evergr…
> Morrison Boulders
> Black Hole
|
|
V6 7A
Boulder
|
|
Jan 6, 2024 · Send.
|
|
●
Shark Attack! or Shark Infe…
|
Golden
> N Table Mountai…
> MBA Buttress
|
|
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Trad
|
|
Jan 2, 2024 · Lead / Onsight.
|
|
●
Shadow of a Hangdog (aka Fa…
|
Golden
> N Table Mountai…
> MBA Buttress
|
|
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Trad, TR
|
|
Jan 2, 2024 · Lead / Onsight.
|
|
●
Womb Fight (submitted as Un…
|
Golden
> N Table Mountai…
> Brown Cloud Rocks
|
12
|
|
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Trad
|
|
Jan 2, 2024 · Lead / Onsight.
|
|
●
Lost Keys Traverse
|
San Francisco B…
> …
1
2
> Indian Rock Side
> Lost Keys Bouldering
|
|
V6 7A
Boulder
|
|
Dec 25, 2023 · Send. The piece de resistance of the “no pads no spotters” holiday tour. A masterclass in technique and grit from the bottom to the well earned top out.
Ironically, I lost an earbud when it fell out of my pocket trying to mantle. Had to retrieve it the next day.
|
|
●
Bates Arete
|
San Francisco B…
> …
1
2
> Castle Rock Loop
> Bates Arete Boulder
|
|
V4 6B
Boulder
|
|
Dec 25, 2023 · Send. Mega - like two routes in one. Spooky until you remember you’re never far from stepping off.
Waited until previous group left to maintain the purity of the “No pads no spotters” tour.
|
|
●
The Spoon
|
San Francisco B…
> …
1
2
> Castle Rock Loop
> Spoon
|
|
V2- 5+
Boulder
|
|
Dec 25, 2023 · Send. The good holds must be getting closer together. Briefly panicked before embracing the beached whale. No spots clear thoughts
|
|
●
Mr Magoo
|
San Francisco B…
> …
1
2
3
> Magoos
> Mr Magoo Boulder
|
|
V1-2 5
Boulder
|
|
Dec 25, 2023 · Send.
|
|
●
Overhanging Lieback
|
San Francisco B…
> …
1
2
3
> Magoos
> Mr Magoo Boulder
|
|
V2-3 5+
Boulder
|
|
Dec 25, 2023 · Send.
|
|
●
The Swim
|
San Francisco B…
> …
1
2
3
> Magoos
> Mrs Magoo Boulder
|
|
V3 6A
Boulder
|
|
Dec 25, 2023 · Send. A mantle into a limbo above a no fall zone. Exquisite.
|
|
●
Hueco Slap
|
San Francisco B…
> …
1
2
3
> Magoos
> Dog Dish Boulders
|
|
V4 6B
Boulder
|
|
Dec 25, 2023 · Send. Temps so crispy today I couldn’t fail. High right smear sticks better with adduction. This is how geckos must feel.
|
|
●
Broken Pyramid Arete
|
San Francisco B…
> …
1
2
> Castle Rock Loop
> Broken Pyramid Boulder
|
|
V3 6A
Boulder
|
|
Dec 25, 2023 · Send.
|
|
●
Icebox Crack
|
Golden
> …
1
> Tunnel 1 Trail…
> Fridge With No Name B…
|
|
V2 5+
Boulder
|
|
Dec 20, 2023 · Flash. Great upside down practice
|
|
●
Fridge With No Name
|
Golden
> …
1
> Tunnel 1 Trail…
> Fridge With No Name B…
|
|
V4-5 6B+
Boulder
|
|
Dec 20, 2023 · Send. Span-tastic
|
|
●
E-40
|
Golden
> …
1
> Tunnel 1 Trail…
> Magnum 40 (submitted…
|
|
V4 6B
Boulder
|
|
Dec 20, 2023 · Send. Little bitty committed committee
|
|
●
Crack Up
|
Boulder
> Boulder Canyon
> Broken Rock
|
|
27
|
|
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Trad
|
|
Nov 17, 2023 · Lead / Onsight. Too easy to be a 9+
|
|
●
Momentum Operator
|
Boulder
> Boulder Canyon
> Broken Rock
|
|
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Trad
|
|
Nov 17, 2023 · Lead / Onsight. Great double crack overhang into a sweet ass on one wall and feet on the other chimney.
|
|
●
The Metamorphosis
|
Boulder
> …
> Wind Tower
> Wind Tower - S Face
|
|
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Trad
|
|
Nov 15, 2023 · Lead / Onsight. Climbed into P1 anchors from King X rap station. Roof/corner did not climb at all like expected. Walked right on ramp and compressed with high feet to mount roof. Nerves fraying at this point- had to take a couple shakes on easier R territory. Ever higher feet and sidepulls/laybacks/punches to gain the anchor.
P2 easy runout to surprise bolt hidden from ground. Lie back corner with poor feet. Hollow fang flake to yard on. Smears and more high feet to ease tension but still small cruxy to moves to easier territory- nerves almost shot at this point. Exhaustion is setting. Rotten band finish to claim what little sun is left to belay in.
Superb climbing.
|
|
●
King's X
|
Boulder
> …
> Wind Tower
> Wind Tower - S Face
|
|
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Trad 2 pitches
|
|
Nov 15, 2023 · Lead / Onsight. Linked with The Metamorphosis as a spicy appetizer.
Rock quality down low suspect on easy rock. Fun blocky high feet/undercling 1st crux (didn’t realize there were two). Backed up every pin relic I could this time - seemed pragmatic.
A-roof climbed like a flared “Bombay chimney” of the Edge. Much harder to actually use chimney moves in - had to do splits out right to shiny foot to stem. Hidden ancient pins/knife blades/fixed but protect the moves well. Almost whipped on said knife blade but somehow whole body friction kept onsight untarnished. Helmet scrapes with the assist. Savior right pinch to exit roof with sidepulls and feet put on left face. Close to if not harder than Edge P4.
Lace your shoes up snug and your head threaded tightly.
|
|
●
Art's Spar
|
Boulder
> …
> Redgarden Wall
> Redgarden - Tower One
|
|
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Trad 4 pitches
|
|
Nov 14, 2023 · Lead / Onsight. Followed Grand Giraffe into business pitch. Head on loose after the desert somehow.
Barn door corner into the traverse on onyx slick rock had my foot pop. Up and down climbed roof twice before firing the stereotypically short Eldo crux; Over before you can blink.
|
|
●
Right Chimney
|
Southeast Utah
> Arches NP
> Three Penguins
|
|
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Trad 2 pitches
|
|
Nov 10, 2023 · Lead / Onsight. 3 star climb for 1 star views.
Great OW practice though. Pop a knee in and serve yourself some juicy butterfly jams.
|
|
●
West Crack
|
Southeast Utah
> Arches NP
> Owl Rock
|
|
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trad
|
|
Nov 10, 2023 · Follow. 3 star views for a 2 star climb
|
|
●
Heart of the Desert
|
Southeast Utah
> …
1
> East
> Queen Victoria Rock (NE)
|
|
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Trad
|
|
Nov 10, 2023 · Lead / Onsight. The one single pitch/non-summit on the tour. Had to do cuz it was gorgeous. Wish I had more 3’s.
|
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