Route Name |
Location |
Star Rating |
Difficulty |
Date |
●
American Beauty
|
Boulder
> …
1
> Surprising Crag
> W Face
|
|
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sport
|
Apr 14, 2024 · Lead / Onsight. I went left at the crux. So maybe not a scend of the proper route. I tried the direct route for about 5min before deciding to go left to preserve a partial onsight. Personally, i think going left was a lot easier and I’d rate it 11d.
Direct route seemed harder than 12b.
|
●
Killer Fish Taco
|
Boulder
> …
1
> Surprising Crag
> S Face
|
|
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sport
|
Apr 14, 2024 · Lead / Onsight. Bit tricky on the head wall. I climbed slightly left of the bolt line. Katherine belayed me. We were here with Tim and Nora and Quinn too.
|
●
Hood Surfing In Socks
|
Boulder
> …
1
> Surprising Crag
> S Face
|
67
|
|
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sport
|
Apr 14, 2024 · Lead / Onsight. Again, I went off route. The direct line on this felt 12d. Maybe it was the harsh sun on the slab, but either using the arete or the dihedral eases the difficulty significantly to about a 10d.
|
●
Platinum Curl
|
Boulder
> …
1
> Surprising Crag
> S Face
|
105
|
|
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Sport
|
Apr 14, 2024 · Lead / Fell/Hung. This is basically just a V5 boulder problem In the middle of wall. Burly side pulling.
|
●
Dirty Dave's Dumpster Dive
|
Boulder
> …
1
> Surprising Crag
> S Face
|
160
|
|
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sport
|
Apr 14, 2024 · Lead. Great varied climbing. Hand jams, roof, dihedral and face climbing.
|
●
Eastern Promises
|
Boulder
> …
> Lower Dream Canyon
> Berlin Wall
|
|
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Sport
|
Apr 13, 2024 · TR. Dude, I need help on this route.
Ran out of time day. Barely tried the crux even once today. Sun was going down and wasn’t feeling it.
|
●
Interrogation
|
Boulder
> …
> Lower Dream Canyon
> Berlin Wall
|
|
5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Sport
|
Apr 13, 2024 · Lead / Fell/Hung. New high point to the 2 bolt after the overhang, but just jugged the rest since I wasn’t feeling it. I felt like it was too hot today and the friction felt even worse on the slab.
|
●
Interrogation
|
Boulder
> …
> Lower Dream Canyon
> Berlin Wall
|
|
5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Sport
|
Apr 7, 2024 · Lead / Fell/Hung. The slab after the roof has 3 distinct cruxes
1 right foot pistol squat
2 side pull twin cracks
3 exiting the cracks out right
|
●
Eastern Promises
|
Boulder
> …
> Lower Dream Canyon
> Berlin Wall
|
|
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Sport
|
Apr 7, 2024 · TR. The section above the roof with the crimp side pulls still feels impossible. Heel toe cam beta gets me past the roof section fine tho.
|
●
Interrogation
|
Boulder
> …
> Lower Dream Canyon
> Berlin Wall
|
|
5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Sport
|
Mar 30, 2024 · Lead / Fell/Hung. The crux of transition into the right finger crack and then getting to the top is a sustained crux where you must trust granite’s friction and fragile fingernail crimps.
|
●
Eastern Promises
|
Boulder
> …
> Lower Dream Canyon
> Berlin Wall
|
|
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Sport
|
Mar 30, 2024 · TR. I think this route my new impossible. The roof is manageable, but pulling on the sidepull crimps to get onto the head wall is not something I’ve been able to do in isolation.
|
●
To Boo, or Not to Boo
|
Southeast Utah
> …
> Take-Out Beach
> Theater
|
|
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sport
|
Mar 24, 2024
|
●
Encore
|
Southeast Utah
> …
> Take-Out Beach
> Cinema
|
|
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sport
|
Mar 24, 2024 · Lead / Onsight.
|
●
Lucy in the Sky with Potash
|
Southeast Utah
> Potash Rd
> Wall Street
|
|
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Trad
|
Mar 24, 2024 · Lead / Flash. Used the arete at the crux.
|
●
Nervous in Suburbia
|
Southeast Utah
> Potash Rd
> Wall Street
|
|
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sport
|
Mar 23, 2024 · Lead / Onsight. Felt 10dog. E was feeling pretty confident and wanted to put up the draws. I was a bit miffed at the climb for punishing her confidence by being a fairly mental lead.
Fun ppl to the left and right as always. Learned 2 new words today. Parsimonious and another that starts with “c” but means nearly the same as parsimonious but more simple.
|
●
Rosy Crucifixion
|
Boulder
> …
> Redgarden Wall
> Redgarden - Tower Two
|
|
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Trad 3 pitches
|
Mar 21, 2024 · Lead / Onsight. Those who think this is the best route have never tasted sugar or experienced love. This route is poor quality in every way. The approach is standard sketch for eldo. The crux move was thoughtful, but it isn’t worth the effort for the 20ft of traversing on P1.
With Maddy
|
●
E.L.100
|
Boulder
> …
> Redgarden Wall
> Redgarden - Tower One
|
|
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Trad
|
Mar 21, 2024 · Follow. Love the tree climb and the 5.7d rating.
The lil traverse to the vertigo anchors on the right prolly could have been avoided by climbing a little higher and walking up the ramp.
|
●
Spitoon AKA: The Scoop
|
Jemez Mountains…
> …
> Pond
> Scoop Boulder
|
|
V3 6A
Boulder
|
Feb 16, 2024 · Send. Nice warm up actually all things considered. fairly intense heel hook tho. w Yibin, Jack, and Pancho.
|
●
Dot Dot Space, AKA: V5 Arête
|
Jemez Mountains…
> …
> Pond
> King for a Day Boulder
|
|
V5- 6C
Boulder
|
Jan 28, 2024 · Attempt. Finished on this one. Requires a hand match on a sloping crimp fairly high up. to me, was not worth risk. But my fav climb of the day.
|
●
The Joker
|
Jemez Mountains…
> …
> Pond
> King for a Day Boulder
|
|
V6 7A
Boulder
|
Jan 28, 2024 · Attempt. Committing heel hook to meet up with King.
|
●
Ticket Hag
|
Jemez Mountains…
> …
> Pond
> King for a Day Boulder
|
|
V2 5+
Boulder
|
Jan 28, 2024 · Flash.
|
●
King for a Day
|
Jemez Mountains…
> …
> Pond
> King for a Day Boulder
|
|
V7 7A+
Boulder
|
Jan 28, 2024 · Attempt. Tried many times. vsmall slopey holds to a big move in a dihedral with dubious foot holds. and let's not forget about that dyno finish above the ankle breaker rock
|
●
Double Noggin Buster
|
Jemez Mountains…
> …
> Pond
> TMBJ Boulder
|
3
|
|
V2 5+
Boulder
|
Jan 28, 2024
|
●
TMBJ
|
Jemez Mountains…
> …
> Pond
> TMBJ Boulder
|
|
V10 7C+
Boulder
|
Jan 28, 2024 · Attempt. Yibin and the local were making good progress while the doggos muddied up the pads.
|
●
Well at Least it Looked Cool
|
Jemez Mountains…
> …
> Pond
> Scoop Boulder
|
2
|
|
V3- 6A
Boulder
|
Jan 28, 2024 · Send. Fun crack. Not sure if this actually is the crack route...
bit of a high-ball
|
●
Spat On
|
Jemez Mountains…
> …
> Pond
> Scoop Boulder
|
|
V1-2 5
Boulder
|
Jan 28, 2024 · Send.
|
●
Spittoon
|
Central Utah
> …
> Right Fork
> Big Spud
|
|
V4 6B
Boulder
|
Jan 28, 2024
|
●
Sleepless in Boulder
|
Boulder
> …
1
> Plotinus Wall
> Left Side
|
|
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sport
|
Dec 20, 2023 · Lead. This route is a classic
|
●
The Scientist
|
Boulder
> …
1
> Plotinus Wall
> Middle
|
|
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Trad
|
Dec 20, 2023 · Lead. The holds are crazy. It’s a wild ride!
|
●
Boulder Quartz System
|
Boulder
> …
1
> Plotinus Wall
> Right Side
|
|
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sport
|
Dec 20, 2023 · Lead / Flash. Thx for hangin the draws Trevor!
Got bomber knee bar at crux. After crux, I pulled too far the right and had to traverse on crimps.
|
●
Eastern Promises
|
Boulder
> …
> Lower Dream Canyon
> Berlin Wall
|
|
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Sport
|
Dec 17, 2023 · TR. Just tried the crux moves from bolt 3 - 6.
Feels like the hardest part of the route is landing a tough rh bump from blady sidepull to dodgy pinch and then pulling hard on the dodgy pinch.
We’ll see how it feels on lead next week.
|
●
Tough Situation
|
Boulder
> …
> Elephant Buttre…
> Second Buttress
|
|
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Trad
|
Dec 16, 2023 · Lead. The roof crux is so fun! And then the dihedral doesn’t let up for another 10ft!
|
●
Classic Finger Crack
|
Boulder
> …
> Elephant Buttre…
> Second Buttress
|
|
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Trad
|
Dec 16, 2023 · Lead. Lead through Trevor’s gear
Anchor at the top was full of options.
We hiked up here the wrong way... I hate it when the approach is the most dangerous part of the day.
|
●
Interrogation
|
Boulder
> …
> Lower Dream Canyon
> Berlin Wall
|
|
5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Sport
|
Dec 15, 2023 · Lead / Fell/Hung. IMO, this is a 13a slab route. The slab above the roof doesn’t seem to have any beta that doesn’t require fingernailing fragile micro holds
|
●
Round the Corner
|
CO Ice & Mixed
> Tenmile Canyon aka Of…
|
|
WI4-5
Trad, Ice 2 pitches
|
Dec 6, 2023 · w Rob. Conditions were great, snow and hike was type 1.5 fun. Loved it. Turns out, ice climbing isn’t so bad if you use a tool instead of an axe XP
|
●
The Headache
|
Southwest Utah
> …
> Mt Carmel Tunnel
> Headache Area
|
|
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Trad 3 pitches
|
Nov 30, 2023 · Lead. W Sofia. Climbed with 80m np. Maybe having an 80m isn’t such a stupid idea…But on the first rap, make sure you go to the anchors on the right and not the ones directly below, lol.
There was a guy a shrooms blasting alien music into the canyon. Playful vibes
|