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5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 67
American Beauty
Apr 14, 2024 · Lead / Onsight. I went left at the crux. So maybe not a scend of the proper route. I tried the direct route for about 5min before deciding to go left to preserve a partial onsight. Personally, i think going left was a lot easier and I’d rate it 11d. Direct route seemed harder than 12b.
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 209
Killer Fish Taco
Apr 14, 2024 · Lead / Onsight. Bit tricky on the head wall. I climbed slightly left of the bolt line. Katherine belayed me. We were here with Tim and Nora and Quinn too.
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 67
Hood Surfing In Socks
Apr 14, 2024 · Lead / Onsight. Again, I went off route. The direct line on this felt 12d. Maybe it was the harsh sun on the slab, but either using the arete or the dihedral eases the difficulty significantly to about a 10d.
Sport
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 105
Platinum Curl
Apr 14, 2024 · Lead / Fell/Hung. This is basically just a V5 boulder problem In the middle of wall. Burly side pulling.
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 160
Dirty Dave's Dumpster Dive
Apr 14, 2024 · Lead. Great varied climbing. Hand jams, roof, dihedral and face climbing.
Sport
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
 6
Eastern Promises
Apr 13, 2024 · TR. Dude, I need help on this route. Ran out of time day. Barely tried the crux even once today. Sun was going down and wasn’t feeling it.
Sport
5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 18
Interrogation
Apr 13, 2024 · Lead / Fell/Hung. New high point to the 2 bolt after the overhang, but just jugged the rest since I wasn’t feeling it. I felt like it was too hot today and the friction felt even worse on the slab.
Sport
5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 18
Interrogation
Apr 7, 2024 · Lead / Fell/Hung. The slab after the roof has 3 distinct cruxes 1 right foot pistol squat 2 side pull twin cracks 3 exiting the cracks out right
Sport
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
 6
Eastern Promises
Apr 7, 2024 · TR. The section above the roof with the crimp side pulls still feels impossible. Heel toe cam beta gets me past the roof section fine tho.
Sport
5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 18
Interrogation
Mar 30, 2024 · Lead / Fell/Hung. The crux of transition into the right finger crack and then getting to the top is a sustained crux where you must trust granite’s friction and fragile fingernail crimps.
Sport
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
 6
Eastern Promises
Mar 30, 2024 · TR. I think this route my new impossible. The roof is manageable, but pulling on the sidepull crimps to get onto the head wall is not something I’ve been able to do in isolation.
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 126
To Boo, or Not to Boo
Mar 24, 2024
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 102
Encore
Mar 24, 2024 · Lead / Onsight.
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 472
Lucy in the Sky with Potash
Mar 24, 2024 · Lead / Flash. Used the arete at the crux.
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 711
Nervous in Suburbia
Mar 23, 2024 · Lead / Onsight. Felt 10dog. E was feeling pretty confident and wanted to put up the draws. I was a bit miffed at the climb for punishing her confidence by being a fairly mental lead. Fun ppl to the left and right as always. Learned 2 new words today. Parsimonious and another that starts with “c” but means nearly the same as parsimonious but more simple.
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
 497
Rosy Crucifixion
Mar 21, 2024 · Lead / Onsight. Those who think this is the best route have never tasted sugar or experienced love. This route is poor quality in every way. The approach is standard sketch for eldo. The crux move was thoughtful, but it isn’t worth the effort for the 20ft of traversing on P1. With Maddy
Trad 3 pitches
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
 43
E.L.100
Mar 21, 2024 · Follow. Love the tree climb and the 5.7d rating. The lil traverse to the vertigo anchors on the right prolly could have been avoided by climbing a little higher and walking up the ramp.
Trad
V3 6A
 59
Spitoon AKA: The Scoop
Feb 16, 2024 · Send. Nice warm up actually all things considered. fairly intense heel hook tho. w Yibin, Jack, and Pancho.
Boulder
V5- 6C
 23
Dot Dot Space, AKA: V5 Arête
Jan 28, 2024 · Attempt. Finished on this one. Requires a hand match on a sloping crimp fairly high up. to me, was not worth risk. But my fav climb of the day.
Boulder
V6 7A
 12
The Joker
Jan 28, 2024 · Attempt. Committing heel hook to meet up with King.
Boulder
V2 5+
 35
Ticket Hag
Jan 28, 2024 · Flash.
Boulder
V7 7A+
 26
King for a Day
Jan 28, 2024 · Attempt. Tried many times. vsmall slopey holds to a big move in a dihedral with dubious foot holds. and let's not forget about that dyno finish above the ankle breaker rock
Boulder
V2 5+
 3
Double Noggin Buster
Jan 28, 2024
Boulder
V10 7C+
 4
TMBJ
Jan 28, 2024 · Attempt. Yibin and the local were making good progress while the doggos muddied up the pads.
Boulder
V3- 6A
 2
Well at Least it Looked Cool
Jan 28, 2024 · Send. Fun crack. Not sure if this actually is the crack route... bit of a high-ball
Boulder
V1-2 5
 2
Spat On
Jan 28, 2024 · Send.
Boulder
V4 6B
 2
Spittoon
Jan 28, 2024
Boulder
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 259
Sleepless in Boulder
Dec 20, 2023 · Lead. This route is a classic
Sport
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 321
The Scientist
Dec 20, 2023 · Lead. The holds are crazy. It’s a wild ride!
Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 203
Boulder Quartz System
Dec 20, 2023 · Lead / Flash. Thx for hangin the draws Trevor! Got bomber knee bar at crux. After crux, I pulled too far the right and had to traverse on crimps.
Sport
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
 6
Eastern Promises
Dec 17, 2023 · TR. Just tried the crux moves from bolt 3 - 6. Feels like the hardest part of the route is landing a tough rh bump from blady sidepull to dodgy pinch and then pulling hard on the dodgy pinch. We’ll see how it feels on lead next week.
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 122
Tough Situation
Dec 16, 2023 · Lead. The roof crux is so fun! And then the dihedral doesn’t let up for another 10ft!
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 187
Classic Finger Crack
Dec 16, 2023 · Lead. Lead through Trevor’s gear Anchor at the top was full of options. We hiked up here the wrong way... I hate it when the approach is the most dangerous part of the day.
Trad
5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 18
Interrogation
Dec 15, 2023 · Lead / Fell/Hung. IMO, this is a 13a slab route. The slab above the roof doesn’t seem to have any beta that doesn’t require fingernailing fragile micro holds
Sport
WI4-5
 11
Round the Corner
Dec 6, 2023 · w Rob. Conditions were great, snow and hike was type 1.5 fun. Loved it. Turns out, ice climbing isn’t so bad if you use a tool instead of an axe XP
Trad, Ice 2 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 463
The Headache
Nov 30, 2023 · Lead. W Sofia. Climbed with 80m np. Maybe having an 80m isn’t such a stupid idea…But on the first rap, make sure you go to the anchors on the right and not the ones directly below, lol. There was a guy a shrooms blasting alien music into the canyon. Playful vibes
Trad 3 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
American Beauty Boulder > … > Surprising Crag > W Face
 67
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Apr 14, 2024 · Lead / Onsight. I went left at the crux. So maybe not a scend of the proper route. I tried the direct route for about 5min before deciding to go left to preserve a partial onsight. Personally, i think going left was a lot easier and I’d rate it 11d. Direct route seemed harder than 12b.
Killer Fish Taco Boulder > … > Surprising Crag > S Face
 209
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Apr 14, 2024 · Lead / Onsight. Bit tricky on the head wall. I climbed slightly left of the bolt line. Katherine belayed me. We were here with Tim and Nora and Quinn too.
Hood Surfing In Socks Boulder > … > Surprising Crag > S Face
 67
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Apr 14, 2024 · Lead / Onsight. Again, I went off route. The direct line on this felt 12d. Maybe it was the harsh sun on the slab, but either using the arete or the dihedral eases the difficulty significantly to about a 10d.
Platinum Curl Boulder > … > Surprising Crag > S Face
 105
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport
Apr 14, 2024 · Lead / Fell/Hung. This is basically just a V5 boulder problem In the middle of wall. Burly side pulling.
Dirty Dave's Dumpster Dive Boulder > … > Surprising Crag > S Face
 160
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Apr 14, 2024 · Lead. Great varied climbing. Hand jams, roof, dihedral and face climbing.
Eastern Promises Boulder > … > Lower Dream Canyon > Berlin Wall
 6
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a Sport
Apr 13, 2024 · TR. Dude, I need help on this route. Ran out of time day. Barely tried the crux even once today. Sun was going down and wasn’t feeling it.
Interrogation Boulder > … > Lower Dream Canyon > Berlin Wall
 18
5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Apr 13, 2024 · Lead / Fell/Hung. New high point to the 2 bolt after the overhang, but just jugged the rest since I wasn’t feeling it. I felt like it was too hot today and the friction felt even worse on the slab.
Interrogation Boulder > … > Lower Dream Canyon > Berlin Wall
 18
5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Apr 7, 2024 · Lead / Fell/Hung. The slab after the roof has 3 distinct cruxes 1 right foot pistol squat 2 side pull twin cracks 3 exiting the cracks out right
Eastern Promises Boulder > … > Lower Dream Canyon > Berlin Wall
 6
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a Sport
Apr 7, 2024 · TR. The section above the roof with the crimp side pulls still feels impossible. Heel toe cam beta gets me past the roof section fine tho.
Interrogation Boulder > … > Lower Dream Canyon > Berlin Wall
 18
5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Mar 30, 2024 · Lead / Fell/Hung. The crux of transition into the right finger crack and then getting to the top is a sustained crux where you must trust granite’s friction and fragile fingernail crimps.
Eastern Promises Boulder > … > Lower Dream Canyon > Berlin Wall
 6
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a Sport
Mar 30, 2024 · TR. I think this route my new impossible. The roof is manageable, but pulling on the sidepull crimps to get onto the head wall is not something I’ve been able to do in isolation.
To Boo, or Not to Boo Southeast Utah > … > Take-Out Beach > Theater
 126
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Mar 24, 2024
Encore Southeast Utah > … > Take-Out Beach > Cinema
 102
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Mar 24, 2024 · Lead / Onsight.
Lucy in the Sky with Potash Southeast Utah > Potash Rd > Wall Street
 472
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Mar 24, 2024 · Lead / Flash. Used the arete at the crux.
Nervous in Suburbia Southeast Utah > Potash Rd > Wall Street
 711
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Mar 23, 2024 · Lead / Onsight. Felt 10dog. E was feeling pretty confident and wanted to put up the draws. I was a bit miffed at the climb for punishing her confidence by being a fairly mental lead. Fun ppl to the left and right as always. Learned 2 new words today. Parsimonious and another that starts with “c” but means nearly the same as parsimonious but more simple.
Rosy Crucifixion Boulder > … > Redgarden Wall > Redgarden - Tower Two
 497
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 Trad 3 pitches
Mar 21, 2024 · Lead / Onsight. Those who think this is the best route have never tasted sugar or experienced love. This route is poor quality in every way. The approach is standard sketch for eldo. The crux move was thoughtful, but it isn’t worth the effort for the 20ft of traversing on P1. With Maddy
E.L.100 Boulder > … > Redgarden Wall > Redgarden - Tower One
 43
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c Trad
Mar 21, 2024 · Follow. Love the tree climb and the 5.7d rating. The lil traverse to the vertigo anchors on the right prolly could have been avoided by climbing a little higher and walking up the ramp.
Spitoon AKA: The Scoop Jemez Mountains… > … > Pond > Scoop Boulder
 59
V3 6A Boulder
Feb 16, 2024 · Send. Nice warm up actually all things considered. fairly intense heel hook tho. w Yibin, Jack, and Pancho.
Dot Dot Space, AKA: V5 Arête Jemez Mountains… > … > Pond > King for a Day Boulder
 23
V5- 6C Boulder
Jan 28, 2024 · Attempt. Finished on this one. Requires a hand match on a sloping crimp fairly high up. to me, was not worth risk. But my fav climb of the day.
The Joker Jemez Mountains… > … > Pond > King for a Day Boulder
 12
V6 7A Boulder
Jan 28, 2024 · Attempt. Committing heel hook to meet up with King.
Ticket Hag Jemez Mountains… > … > Pond > King for a Day Boulder
 35
V2 5+ Boulder
Jan 28, 2024 · Flash.
King for a Day Jemez Mountains… > … > Pond > King for a Day Boulder
 26
V7 7A+ Boulder
Jan 28, 2024 · Attempt. Tried many times. vsmall slopey holds to a big move in a dihedral with dubious foot holds. and let's not forget about that dyno finish above the ankle breaker rock
Double Noggin Buster Jemez Mountains… > … > Pond > TMBJ Boulder
 3
V2 5+ Boulder
Jan 28, 2024
TMBJ Jemez Mountains… > … > Pond > TMBJ Boulder
 4
V10 7C+ Boulder
Jan 28, 2024 · Attempt. Yibin and the local were making good progress while the doggos muddied up the pads.
Well at Least it Looked Cool Jemez Mountains… > … > Pond > Scoop Boulder
 2
V3- 6A Boulder
Jan 28, 2024 · Send. Fun crack. Not sure if this actually is the crack route... bit of a high-ball
Spat On Jemez Mountains… > … > Pond > Scoop Boulder
 2
V1-2 5 Boulder
Jan 28, 2024 · Send.
Spittoon Central Utah > … > Right Fork > Big Spud
 2
V4 6B Boulder
Jan 28, 2024
Sleepless in Boulder Boulder > … > Plotinus Wall > Left Side
 259
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Dec 20, 2023 · Lead. This route is a classic
The Scientist Boulder > … > Plotinus Wall > Middle
 321
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad
Dec 20, 2023 · Lead. The holds are crazy. It’s a wild ride!
Boulder Quartz System Boulder > … > Plotinus Wall > Right Side
 203
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Dec 20, 2023 · Lead / Flash. Thx for hangin the draws Trevor! Got bomber knee bar at crux. After crux, I pulled too far the right and had to traverse on crimps.
Eastern Promises Boulder > … > Lower Dream Canyon > Berlin Wall
 6
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a Sport
Dec 17, 2023 · TR. Just tried the crux moves from bolt 3 - 6. Feels like the hardest part of the route is landing a tough rh bump from blady sidepull to dodgy pinch and then pulling hard on the dodgy pinch. We’ll see how it feels on lead next week.
Tough Situation Boulder > … > Elephant Buttre… > Second Buttress
 122
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Dec 16, 2023 · Lead. The roof crux is so fun! And then the dihedral doesn’t let up for another 10ft!
Classic Finger Crack Boulder > … > Elephant Buttre… > Second Buttress
 187
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Dec 16, 2023 · Lead. Lead through Trevor’s gear Anchor at the top was full of options. We hiked up here the wrong way... I hate it when the approach is the most dangerous part of the day.
Interrogation Boulder > … > Lower Dream Canyon > Berlin Wall
 18
5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Dec 15, 2023 · Lead / Fell/Hung. IMO, this is a 13a slab route. The slab above the roof doesn’t seem to have any beta that doesn’t require fingernailing fragile micro holds
Round the Corner CO Ice & Mixed > Tenmile Canyon aka Of…
 11
WI4-5 Trad, Ice 2 pitches
Dec 6, 2023 · w Rob. Conditions were great, snow and hike was type 1.5 fun. Loved it. Turns out, ice climbing isn’t so bad if you use a tool instead of an axe XP
The Headache Southwest Utah > … > Mt Carmel Tunnel > Headache Area
 463
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 3 pitches
Nov 30, 2023 · Lead. W Sofia. Climbed with 80m np. Maybe having an 80m isn’t such a stupid idea…But on the first rap, make sure you go to the anchors on the right and not the ones directly below, lol. There was a guy a shrooms blasting alien music into the canyon. Playful vibes
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