| Route Name |
Location |
Star Rating |
Difficulty |
Date |
|
●
Criss Cross Direct
|
Gunks
> Near Trapps
> a. Beginning of cliff…
|
|
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Trad 2 pitches
|
|
Mar 30, 2024 · Lead / Redpoint. Soft second go, great gear just need to commit to the crissing and crossing. Sent shortly before someone decked on Gelsa and we had to hike them out on a stretcher.
|
|
●
Ants' Line
|
Gunks
> Trapps
> i. High E
|
|
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Trad
|
|
Sep 3, 2023 · Lead / Redpoint. w/ Omi. Warm up for the day!
|
|
●
Teeny Face
|
Gunks
> Trapps
> i. High E
|
|
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Trad 2 pitches
|
|
Sep 3, 2023 · Follow. w/ Omi. Ran up it to finish the day. Still fun, though many blocks are feeling looser and looser since 2021 send. Gear still bomber.
|
|
●
Ridicullissima
|
Gunks
> Trapps
> i. High E
|
|
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Trad
|
|
Sep 3, 2023 · Lead / Fell/Hung. w/ Omi. What pump! 85 degrees and HUMID. Pumped off the second crux, waited too long finding pro at the rest. Three big whips on the .3/4 protecting the second crux, figured out the beta and took it to the top. First crux off the ledge, then have to keep it moving through the crack systems and over the final bulge… Key gear: .5 to protect the intro 5.8, yellow totem at the Directissima belay (double length runner), .75 after pulling the ledge move, .3 and .4 just at the jug introing the second crux, purple totem before final roof pull. Will be back for the redpoint…
|
|
●
Groovy
|
Gunks
> Trapps
> i. High E
|
|
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trad
|
|
Aug 27, 2023 · Lead / Onsight. w/ Omi. Fun one which is benefited by experience with jamming.
|
|
●
Space Invaders
|
Gunks
> Trapps
> i. High E
|
|
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Trad
|
|
Aug 27, 2023 · Lead / Redpoint. w/ Alexa. Second go—disproportionately easier knowing the gear beta (protect beginning of crux with one blue and one black totem). Fun send with the perfect amount of pump through the crux.
|
|
●
Directissima
|
Gunks
> Trapps
> i. High E
|
|
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Trad 2 pitches
|
|
Aug 27, 2023 · Follow. w/ Alexa, Quinn, and Omi. Still fun!!
|
|
●
Directississima (aka Double…
|
Gunks
> Trapps
> i. High E
|
|
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Trad 2 pitches
|
|
May 28, 2023 · Lead / Redpoint. w/ Dan. WHAT a lead. Pumpy and strenuous throughout—I was basically sprinting between resting stances but none are complete, so you are fighting the pump all the way up. Loved it.
|
|
●
Ants' Line
|
Gunks
> Trapps
> i. High E
|
|
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Trad
|
|
May 27, 2023 · Follow. w/ Dan to finish the day. Still a treat after many years.
|
|
●
Bullfrog
|
Gunks
> Trapps
> g. V3 - Middle Earth
|
|
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13
Trad
|
|
May 27, 2023 · TR. w/ Dan. Great climbing down low and all the way into the jug rail. The crux sequence is nails and actually probably easier to work on lead than on TR because of the rope grind and absence of a good direction up top. Lead candidate!
|
|
●
Lakatakissima
|
Gunks
> Trapps
> i. High E
|
|
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Trad
|
|
May 27, 2023 · Lead / Onsight. w/ Dan as second pitch to Doubleissima! Hornet’s next, runout crux sequence, bush whacking through the finish across lichened terrain! I believe this route gets little attention these days.
|
|
●
Balrog
|
Gunks
> Trapps
> g. V3 - Middle Earth
|
|
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Trad
|
|
May 27, 2023 · Lead / Onsight. w/ Dan. Had to unwind at the crux a few times, but I found an amazing finger lock at the top of the crux seam and the rest was gravy. Loved this one. 5.9 in 1967!
|
|
●
MF Direct
|
Gunks
> Trapps
> e. The Mac Wall (Some…
|
|
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Trad
|
|
May 27, 2023 · Follow. w/ Dan, who accidentally onsighted this route as his warm up believing it was MF. Spicy moment where he was at a stance placing a .1 after a long run out but he was cool and calm through the storm.
|
|
●
Orangahang
|
Rumney
> Orange Crush
|
|
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sport
|
|
May 16, 2023 · Lead / Fell/Hung. w/ Guy and Xander. Unsent in spectacular style, with a great whip and a good fight.
|
|
●
Flesh For Lulu
|
Rumney
> Meadows
> Holderness Corner
|
|
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sport
|
|
May 16, 2023 · Lead / Redpoint. w/ Guy. Sacrificed the flesh and finally sent, some years later, second go after hanging Eva’s draws. Razor crimp crux beta with some span moves to finish. Rumney never disappoints.
|
|
●
Underdog
|
Rumney
> Main Cliff
|
|
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sport
|
|
May 15, 2023 · Lead / Redpoint. w/ Guy and Xander. The triangle is like an old friend, and the climb brings back so many good memories. I’ll always give it a go when I have the chance!
|
|
●
Thin Man
|
Rumney
> Main Cliff
|
|
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Sport
|
|
May 15, 2023 · Lead / Fell/Hung. w/ Guy, Xander. Can no longer pull the first boulder!
|
|
●
Technosurfing
|
Rumney
> Waimea
|
|
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sport
|
|
May 15, 2023 · Lead / Fell/Hung. w/ Guy. Still fell at the same place! Hard boulder problem!
|
|
●
Kundalini
|
Rumney
> Bonsai
|
|
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Sport
|
|
May 15, 2023 · Lead / Fell/Hung. w/ Guy who sent second go! Train your right ankle flexibility for the knee bar beta!! Cossack squats for a couple weeks beforehand! Great line but can’t believe it’s the first 5.13 at Rumney.
|
|
●
No Solution
|
Gunks
> Trapps
> a1. The Uberfall - left
|
|
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Trad, TR
|
|
Apr 16, 2023 · TR. w/ Omi. How in god’s name do people lead this? Edit: just read the gear beta—sure that all checks out.
|
|
●
Retribution
|
Gunks
> Trapps
> a1. The Uberfall - left
|
|
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Trad
|
|
Apr 16, 2023 · Lead / Redpoint. w/ Omi. Still a hard move—still glad to have gotten it.
|
|
●
Red Cabbage
|
Gunks
> Trapps
> a1. The Uberfall - left
|
124
|
|
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Trad
|
|
Apr 16, 2023 · Follow. w/ Omi who took a great lateral whip on a black totem!
|
|
●
Son of Easy O
|
Gunks
> Trapps
> c. Frog's Head - the…
|
|
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trad 2 pitches
|
|
Apr 16, 2023 · Lead / Redpoint. w/ Omi, still great fun. Linked P1/2. Ran out the middle section with double pro at the start of the roofs. Ran out the roof for some spice.
|
|
●
Outer Space
|
Gunks
> Near Trapps
> a. Beginning of cliff…
|
|
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Trad
|
|
Apr 15, 2023 · Lead / Onsight. w/ Omi who led it recently. Great climb and the perfect warm up to Infinite Space.
|
|
●
Grand Central
|
Gunks
> Near Trapps
> a. Beginning of cliff…
|
|
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Trad 2 pitches
|
|
Apr 15, 2023 · Follow. w/ Omi who did a bold and technically excellent lead linking both pitches. Kudos to her and a nice walk off to follow.
|
|
●
El Kabong
|
Gunks
> Near Trapps
> b. Gelsa to Moe (clos…
|
|
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
Trad, TR
|
|
Apr 15, 2023 · TR. w/ Omi. Hard moves separated by good holds and decent stances. This would be a proud lead.
|
|
●
Transcontinental Nailway
|
Gunks
> Near Trapps
> b. Gelsa to Moe (clos…
|
|
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Trad
|
|
Apr 15, 2023 · Lead / Onsight. w/ Omi. Sebastian told me a gear placement before the crux. Fun one. Gear: exactly one of .3-1 and perhaps a sneaky nut. Fun one.
|
|
●
White Pillar
|
Gunks
> Near Trapps
> c. Moe (closure) to H…
|
|
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Trad 3 pitches
|
|
Apr 15, 2023 · 1 pitch. Follow. w/ Omi. Wiessner classic and an adventure 83 years later! Clouds of mosquitos will come out of this pillar.
|
|
●
No Glow
|
Gunks
> Trapps
> h. The Arrow Wall - CCK
|
|
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Trad 2 pitches
|
|
Oct 18, 2022 · Lead / Redpoint. just P1 to get to the GT ledge. Same as before, a spooky 5.7 to the left of the No Glow rappels with sparse gear… also wet this time.
|
|
●
Slammin'
|
Gunks
> Near Trapps
> b. Gelsa to Moe (clos…
|
|
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Trad, TR
|
|
Oct 9, 2022 · TR. w/ Omi. Definitely felt like 12+, especially the glassy feet at the upper crux. Seemed like there was good gear for an eventual lead. GunksApp said R? Seems like a stretch
|
|
●
Birdland
|
Gunks
> Near Trapps
> b. Gelsa to Moe (clos…
|
|
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trad 2 pitches
|
|
Oct 9, 2022 · Follow. w/ Omi. Still a fantastic climb!
|
|
●
Roseland
|
Gunks
> Near Trapps
> b. Gelsa to Moe (clos…
|
|
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Trad 3 pitches
|
|
Oct 9, 2022 · Follow. w/ Omi. Just P1. Followed her solid lead! It’s only gotten more polished. Literally cannot believe this was one of my first trad leads years ago (2014/2015?)
|
|
●
Alphonse
|
Gunks
> Near Trapps
> a. Beginning of cliff…
|
|
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trad 2 pitches
|
|
Oct 9, 2022 · Lead / Onsight. w/ Omi. Linked P1/P2, great single pitch with good slings.
|
|
●
Shitface
|
Gunks
> Near Trapps
> b. Gelsa to Moe (clos…
|
|
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Trad, TR
|
|
Oct 9, 2022 · Lead / Redpoint. w/ Omi. Great lead with some spoopy gear (just in time for Halloween!).
|
|
●
Tres Hombres
|
Lander Area
> …
> Main Wall
> A. Rising From the Pl…
|
|
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Sport
|
|
Jul 3, 2022 · Lead / Fell/Hung. w/ Blaise, Omi, Rin. Went for more aggressive beta on the redpoint and tweaked a flexor on the small front two pockets. A classic way to end a trip to Lander.
|
|
●
Last Man Standing
|
Lander Area
> …
> Main Wall
> A. Rising From the Pl…
|
|
5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Sport
|
|
Jul 1, 2022 · Lead / Fell/Hung. w/ Blaise and Omi. Fell on the flash. Took it to the chains. Felt stout and likely injurious if hesitant.
|
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