Route Name |
Location |
Star Rating |
Difficulty |
Date |
●
Cyclops
|
Red Wing (a.k.a…
> Cyclops Area
|
|
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sport
|
Mar 10, 2024 · Lead / Fell/Hung. Still haven't solved b3/4 traverse sequence, need to figure out feet. Rest of climb goes very well. Can hangdog past crux if tall
|
●
Sleeping Bat in a Ziplock Bag
|
Red Wing (a.k.a…
> Cyclops Area
|
|
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Sport
|
Mar 10, 2024 · Lead / Redpoint. Starting moves hard, Africa sounds pretty hollow, but good climb. Eye bulge needs better/more controlled beta
|
●
Pigeon Paranoia
|
Red Wing (a.k.a…
> Cyclops Area
|
|
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sport, TR
|
Mar 10, 2024 · Lead / Redpoint. WOO! Clean send, finally did hand/ foot sequence w/o getting it mixed up for transition onto slab. Very fun, good climb. Loose pebbles near anchors, could clean up
|
●
Work Ethic
|
Red Wing (a.k.a…
> Cyclops Area
|
|
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sport
|
Mar 10, 2024 · TR. Worked on TR twice, still making the stuff around b4 clean/smooth. Moves till b4 go fine
|
●
Sunburst
|
Red Wing (a.k.a…
> E End
|
126
|
|
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sport
|
Mar 10, 2024 · Lead / Redpoint. Was in shade by 11am, chose to move to a sunnier/warmer wall for newer climbers fingers. Felt pretty easy though, if a bit slippery
|
●
Work Ethic
|
Red Wing (a.k.a…
> Cyclops Area
|
|
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sport
|
Mar 2, 2024 · TR. Worked beta, sequence remembered. Crux 1: RH lockoff undercling pocket to left half of rail. Crux 2: LH good sidepull, feet up, RH mono, LF jug, LH crimp, RH pinch
|
●
Frequent Flatulence
|
Red Wing (a.k.a…
> New Vice Area
|
|
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sport
|
Mar 2, 2024 · Lead / Redpoint. EZ stuff now, not convinced it's any harder than TTZ. Fun though, classic. Set draws for Hansong
|
●
Two Tone Zephyr
|
Red Wing (a.k.a…
> New Vice Area
|
|
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sport
|
Mar 2, 2024 · Lead / Redpoint. First climb of the season! Always a good one, very chill (literally, shady and cold). Delicate near top. Last bolt spins
|
●
Preemptive Strike
|
Red Wing (a.k.a…
> Winter Wall
|
|
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Sport
|
Nov 12, 2023 · TR. 2 tries, 2nd time did it all in 3 takes! It all goes, just need to remember hold sequences and stave off pump
|
●
A Drilling Experience
|
Red Wing (a.k.a…
> Winter Wall
|
|
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sport
|
Nov 12, 2023 · TR. Roof moves felt easy but insecure for feet. Big reach to chains, very TALL move. When TR, don't forget redirects for traverse
|
●
Prow Right AKA Dead Dog Are…
|
Red Wing (a.k.a…
> E End
|
34
|
|
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sport
|
Nov 12, 2023 · TR. What a good route! Nicer than the left line, fun arete hooking and jug action
|
●
Left Lane
|
Red Wing (a.k.a…
> E End
|
|
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sport
|
Nov 12, 2023 · TR. Cold, goes in shade quick. Lots of left/right
|
●
Mack the Knife
|
Tettegouche SP…
> Palisade Head
|
|
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Trad, TR
|
Oct 15, 2023 · TR. Lowered to big ledge, not bottom. Didn't cheat right/pulled the top bit with some hard stemming/fingerlock! Bird shit abounds. Used bday haul for friend in air
|
●
Scars and Tripes Forever
|
Tettegouche SP…
> Palisade Head
|
|
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Trad, TR
|
Oct 15, 2023 · TR. What a Beast!!! Every type of jam, and some lieback/face to boot. Tricky near top, very chimney/stemmy
|
●
Bluebells
|
Tettegouche SP…
> Palisade Head
|
|
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Trad, TR
|
Oct 15, 2023 · TR. Although tricky, felt secure climbing it this time. Could be nice lead, although runout bottom. Good stem movement
|
●
Phantom Crack
|
Tettegouche SP…
> Palisade Head
|
|
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Trad, TR
|
Oct 15, 2023 · TR. Flubbed hand sequence and didn't warm up right, so took once. Still great jammin
|
●
Andy's Arete
|
Sawmill Creek Dome
> Picnic Rock
|
|
V4- 6B
Boulder
|
Oct 14, 2023 · Attempt. Hard stuff is down low, good heels/crimps. Bring more pads to make top less scary. Downclimb cross via tree
|
●
The Prow
|
Sawmill Creek Dome
> Picnic Rock
|
|
V3 6A
Boulder
|
Oct 14, 2023 · Attempt. Almost got it, slip off near top/dab/slide into the pit of despair. Bring a lot of pads
|
●
Umberger Helper
|
Sawmill Creek Dome
> Picnic Rock
|
|
V4-5 6B+
Boulder
|
Oct 14, 2023 · Attempt. Very small crimps, very small feet
|
●
Warm Up Slab Shorty
|
Sawmill Creek Dome
> Picnic Rock
|
|
V0-1 4+
Boulder
|
Oct 14, 2023 · Send. Fun big move, warms ya right up
|
●
Way To Blue
|
Sawmill Creek Dome
> Picnic Rock
|
|
V1- 5-
Boulder
|
Oct 14, 2023 · Flash. It is tall, but also not scary for a slab. Really nice landing, lovely moves
|
●
Lushes Lip Traverse
|
Sawmill Creek Dome
> Picnic Rock
|
|
V0 4
Boulder
|
Oct 14, 2023 · Flash. Awesome traverse, fun heels and toes, start is crux
|
●
Sigma
|
Sandstone
> Robinson Park
> Sigma Wall
|
|
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Sport
|
Sep 17, 2023 · Lead / Fell/Hung. 1st try in a while, bolt to bolted, all doable. Next up: find rests, improve crux sequences. Amazing route as always
|
●
Spray
|
Sandstone
> Robinson Park
> Main Flow Area
|
|
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a PG13
Sport
|
Sep 17, 2023 · TR. Kyle led, sequenced beta, once learned feels much more doable. Ez once on top of pillar
|
●
04) Barron Von Mischke
|
Sandstone
> Robinson Park
> Diagonals Wall
|
|
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
Sport, TR
|
Sep 17, 2023 · TR. Kyle led. Runnel gaston would be cool, left jugs seem on route though, much easier that way. Bottom is always wet, year round
|
●
11.5 Purple Bolt, Purple Bolt
|
Sandstone
> Robinson Park
> Diagonals Wall
|
|
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sport
|
Sep 17, 2023 · Lead / Fell/Hung. Hung once at middle crux, just need to lean harder and throw high for jug. Top crux is tricky too, right hand sloper and alpine knees solve it
|
●
2) Body and Soul
|
Sandstone
> Robinson Park
> Sax Wall
|
|
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Sport, TR
|
Sep 17, 2023 · Lead / Redpoint. Relaxing warmup, pleasant
|
●
Advanced Birding
|
Red Wing (a.k.a…
> Perfect Crimb Area
|
|
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sport
|
Aug 5, 2023 · TR. Followed kyle. Pulled 1st roof clean first time! Then fell going for heuco. Just need to power through and get feet higher, cleaner
|
●
Demystification
|
Red Wing (a.k.a…
> Perfect Crimb Area
|
|
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sport
|
Aug 5, 2023 · TR. 2nd go more dialed, avoided crack, keys to success were flip grip to underclings, knuckle pinches, and high feet
|
●
Demystification
|
Red Wing (a.k.a…
> Perfect Crimb Area
|
|
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sport
|
Aug 5, 2023 · TR. Michelle/Dane set up. 1st go went better than last time, used crack though
|
●
Tummy Kittens in Space
|
Red Wing (a.k.a…
> Large Roof Area
|
|
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sport
|
Aug 5, 2023 · TR. Chill, very easy and controlled. Just careful of loose rock on right in middle; bring a brush to clean up a bit
|
●
Quick Draw Moves to Hollywood
|
Red Wing (a.k.a…
> Large Roof Area
|
|
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
Sport
|
Aug 5, 2023 · Lead / Redpoint. Tricky middle feet, route is clean and great as ever
|
●
Living Postmortems
|
Red Wing (a.k.a…
> New Vice Area
|
48
|
|
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Sport
|
Aug 5, 2023 · Lead / Onsight. Actually really fun! A little sand near top, but otherwise clean and varied climbing, good warmup
|
●
Blue Steel
|
Red Wing (a.k.a…
> New Vice Area
|
15
|
|
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sport
|
Aug 5, 2023 · Lead / Fell/Hung. Tried staying right 1st go, best to stay left till bolt 2. Meh route, but really nice crimps, unusual for RW
|
●
Where's Maddie?
|
N America
> …
1
2
> Murrin Park
> Commune
|
|
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sport
|
Jul 21, 2023 · Lead / Onsight. Relaxing, balancy fun. 1 tricky spot in middle, lots of foot swappin
|
●
What Crag?
|
N America
> …
1
2
> Murrin Park
> Commune
|
|
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sport
|
Jul 21, 2023 · TR. First crux low, high heel and big reach out left. Roof and top slab ez fun. Block not loose? Cant tell
|