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Mar 10, 2016
Last Visit: 6 days ago
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5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
 10
Remedy
Oct 21, 2031 · Lead / Fell/Hung. Worked this most of the day with John. Definitely two distinct cruxes. Ironing out the beta though B3 (to conserve energy) will be critical to the send. Low crux is B3 to B4. High crux is B7 to anchors. For the low crux, I bumped RH to the intermediate crimp, LH low. LF on a little bib, RF up to a nub out right. Big LH move to the jug at the base above, pushing off the RF. For the high crux, I had RH in the deep 4F horizontal crack on the right face, LH on the crimp/sloper on the left face. Then RH out wide to the glued horizontal crimp. RF bump up, high LF, RH bump to the intermediate horizontal crimp (that I ticked), then LH throw to the jug, pushing up off the LF. Both my feet cut on this move. Jugs to the top. I don’t know the beta where you avoid the glued horizontal crimp. Very curious. B2, very low wide LF to clip.
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 37
Pacific Ocean Wall
Apr 13, 2024 · TR. Working on TR. First crux is getting to and pulling the lip/crest. Near the lip: LH horizontal crimp, RH weird crimp, both feet low. Then RF bump up, LF bump up, both frog, RH static to the jug (that I planned to grab with my LH). Then adjust. I struggled moving past this point. Fingers hurt from crimping, toes hurt because it was late in the day. 5 pm after arriving at 9. Good start for next time though
TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 30
Freaky Face
Apr 13, 2024 · TR. 8 variation to the left. Fun 8. I think I made the top harder than it should’ve been by staying too far left rather than using the crack
Trad, TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 30
Freaky Face
Apr 13, 2024 · TR. 10.d variation up the right side, with the direct start. Botched the on-sight at the low crux. Ended up using RH undercling in the seam, LH side pull in the slopey crack, high LF, stand up into RH jug. Upper crux went 2/2 but still something to deal with.
Trad, TR
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
 111
Dancing Madly Backwards
Apr 13, 2024 · TR. Flash. Crux is not letting your feet slip while traversing the undercling roof and pulling the roof. Traverse maybe 3/4, then to pull, I found positive holds for both hands, and a ripple or something below for my RF. Then a high LF over the roof.
Trad, TR
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 60
Alligator Wall
Apr 13, 2024 · TR. Flash. 10a or 10b. Solid slab route
Trad, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Remedy South > Fishin' Crag (C… > N Wall
 10
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Sport
Oct 21, 2031 · Lead / Fell/Hung. Worked this most of the day with John. Definitely two distinct cruxes. Ironing out the beta though B3 (to conserve energy) will be critical to the send. Low crux is B3 to B4. High crux is B7 to anchors. For the low crux, I bumped RH to the intermediate crimp, LH low. LF on a little bib, RF up to a nub out right. Big LH move to the jug at the base above, pushing off the RF. For the high crux, I had RH in the deep 4F horizontal crack on the right face, LH on the crimp/sloper on the left face. Then RH out wide to the glued horizontal crimp. RF bump up, high LF, RH bump to the intermediate horizontal crimp (that I ticked), then LH throw to the jug, pushing up off the LF. Both my feet cut on this move. Jugs to the top. I don’t know the beta where you avoid the glued horizontal crimp. Very curious. B2, very low wide LF to clip.
Pacific Ocean Wall Baraboo Range > … > E Bluff 01 - Sa… > 1. Old Sandstone
 37
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a TR
Apr 13, 2024 · TR. Working on TR. First crux is getting to and pulling the lip/crest. Near the lip: LH horizontal crimp, RH weird crimp, both feet low. Then RF bump up, LF bump up, both frog, RH static to the jug (that I planned to grab with my LH). Then adjust. I struggled moving past this point. Fingers hurt from crimping, toes hurt because it was late in the day. 5 pm after arriving at 9. Good start for next time though
Freaky Face Baraboo Range > … > E Bluff 01 - Sa… > 1. Old Sandstone
 30
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, TR
Apr 13, 2024 · TR. 8 variation to the left. Fun 8. I think I made the top harder than it should’ve been by staying too far left rather than using the crack
Freaky Face Baraboo Range > … > E Bluff 01 - Sa… > 1. Old Sandstone
 30
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, TR
Apr 13, 2024 · TR. 10.d variation up the right side, with the direct start. Botched the on-sight at the low crux. Ended up using RH undercling in the seam, LH side pull in the slopey crack, high LF, stand up into RH jug. Upper crux went 2/2 but still something to deal with.
Dancing Madly Backwards Baraboo Range > … > E Bluff 01 - Sa… > 1. Old Sandstone
 111
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 Trad, TR
Apr 13, 2024 · TR. Flash. Crux is not letting your feet slip while traversing the undercling roof and pulling the roof. Traverse maybe 3/4, then to pull, I found positive holds for both hands, and a ripple or something below for my RF. Then a high LF over the roof.
Alligator Wall Baraboo Range > … > E Bluff 01 - Sa… > 1. Old Sandstone
 60
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad, TR
Apr 13, 2024 · TR. Flash. 10a or 10b. Solid slab route

Tick Breakdown
Trad Sport Boulder Ice

Pitches Routes Days Out
90 Days 17 17 5
Last Year 50 50 15
5 Years 103 98 32
All Time 169 163 50

Where Neubadger Climbs

TradSportTRBoulderIce
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