Dec 16, 2020 · Lead / Onsight. What a route!! An amazing line. Grade is totally dependent on how well you can climb chimneys. I was glad I had Paris to lead them. The rest of the route protects well, and the top half is incredible steep juggy climbing with plenty of gear opportunities and a few bolts thrown in. Getting to the pine tree from the "top" was more confusing and time-consuming than we anticipated, especially in the dark. We placed a few pieces of gear for the 4 "exit pitches" and were relieved to finally see the tree and the 4th class ramp to the real finish! Got back to the car around 2am, the descent is time-consuming too! Oh yeah, the beginning was confusing... We started to the right next to a pillar and climbed up some sandy but easy stuff to a ledge, then traversed wayyy over left until we could see some bolts above us.
Dec 15, 2020 · Lead / Onsight. Great climb and great easy trad lead!! Plethora of gear options the whole way up, never feels insecure, slabby crack most of the way. The second pitch is wayyyy longer. With Paris and Matt R.
Dec 14, 2020 · Lead / Fell/Hung. Amazing sport climb (with a few options to place gear on the first few pitches... second half of the route is totally sewn up with bolts). We froze on the first few pitches in the shade, but got warmer as we climbed. I led pitches 2-3 (linked up to the big ledge), which were fun and a little slabby in places, but I never really felt insecure. Paris did p4 up through the roof (cool, sorta have to figure this part out), I linked 5-6 (steep but very juggy, pretty much a ladder), and Paris finished us out up the arete to the summit! Did 2 raps down to the basin (stopped at an intermediate one to avoid rope getting stuck) then 3 more back down to the gully with our packs. Could have onsighted if my stamina was better but needed to take for a few breaks. No falls.