Route Name |
Location |
Star Rating |
Difficulty |
Date |
●
Parallel Universes
|
S Platte
> Elevenmile Canyon
> River Wall
|
|
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sport
|
Sep 4, 2023 · Lead. Climbed half the route. Wasps in a small horizontal crack. Bailed at that point.
|
●
Hebrew Hangover
|
S Platte
> Elevenmile Canyon
> River Wall
|
36
|
|
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sport
|
Sep 4, 2023 · Lead / Onsight. Lead. Lots of high steps. 5.8 moves are all there if you look for them.
|
●
Crow's Nest
|
Canon City
> …
> Gallery
> Far Side
|
|
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sport
|
Aug 27, 2023 · TR.
|
●
Hume's Horror
|
Canon City
> …
> Gallery
> Far Side
|
|
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sport
|
Aug 27, 2023 · TR. Too out of shape for this one. Lots of fatigue falls. Moves are straightforward and got all clean after resting.
|
●
Abracadabra
|
Canon City
> …
> Gallery
> Far Side
|
|
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sport
|
Aug 27, 2023 · TR. Way too run-out to 2nd bolt for me to lead without a stick clip. Fun deadpoint and dynamic movements reached 2nd. Fun route.
|
●
Walk the Dog
|
Gunnison
> Hartman Rocks
> Slot
|
|
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sport
|
Aug 15, 2023 · TR. Clean. Bolt placements are all a bit high and reachy. Walked off the anchors, this could easily be set up as a top rope.
|
●
The Casual Route
|
Gunnison
> …
> N Rim Routes
> SOB Gully (skier's le…
|
68
|
|
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trad 8 pitches
|
Aug 12, 2023 · Lead / Flash. Led all but pitch 2-2.5 ish? Had a hard time route finding the bottom of this - there's too many options! Haha. I think we did pitch 1 and start of 2 on Casually Off. Then climbed hard to the right to get under the visible crux pitch of Casual. I found the pinch top of p4 chimney hard! I also found a harder pitch 6 then described. Mostly all very easy climbing, but a few moves on each of those two pitches made this feel 5.10 for me. Brought double rack to #3, plus 1x #4, nuts. Hiked out the gully after p6, we didn't feel like climbing the last two looser pitches.
|
●
The Maiden Voyage aka The R…
|
Gunnison
> …
> N Rim Routes
> Checkerboard Wall
|
|
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Trad 5 pitches
|
Aug 11, 2023 · Lead. Lead all. Very fun and good solid rock the whole way. Pack had to come off for 1st pitch chimney. Started raining and got slippery, had to hike out. Want to come back and do summit pitch and King Me. Route takes great gear. Brought double rack to #3 plus nuts, a #4 (I didn't bring) would be welcome leaving the belay on pitch 3. Takes great gear.
|
●
Zebra
|
10 Mile Canyon
> White Cliff
|
|
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sport
|
Jul 29, 2023 · Lead / Flash.
|
●
Rufies
|
10 Mile Canyon
> White Cliff
|
38
|
|
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sport
|
Jul 29, 2023 · Lead / Flash.
|
●
Death Star Compactor
|
S Platte
> …
> Heaven's Gate
> Emerald Isle
|
|
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sport
|
Jul 28, 2023 · Lead / Onsight. Fun route. Climbs good. It would get 3 stars out of 5.
|
●
Laura's Arete
|
S Platte
> …
> Heaven's Gate
> Emerald Isle
|
|
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sport
|
Jul 28, 2023 · Lead / Fell/Hung. Foot slipped between bolt 3 and 4. Got it clean on 2nd go. Bolts are a little reachy, had to climb crux before able to clip 4th bolt. Good route.
|
●
Storm Warning
|
S Platte
> …
> Heaven's Gate
> Emerald Isle
|
30
|
|
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sport
|
Jul 28, 2023 · Lead / Onsight. agree with description, good warm-up. hardest part was setting the first feet when leaving the ground.
|
●
Phantom Pinnacle
|
S Platte
> Elevenmile Canyon
> Elevenmile Dome
|
|
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Trad 2 pitches
|
Jul 21, 2023 · Lead / Onsight. Followed P1. Lead P2. P2 was very fun, enjoyed the cave like section. Wicked run out through there and sketchy for follower. No good way to protect the traverse without introducing horrible rope drag. Took the pitch across the traverse to the bolted anchor. Was rope drag at that point but it made sense for follower. Stayed roped up and with gear through rest of traverse. With a long run-out in both pitches I would consider this R rated. Falls could be very bad.
|
●
Miss Wyoming
|
S Platte
> Elevenmile Canyon
> Elevenmile Dome
|
|
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sport
|
Jul 21, 2023 · TR. clean. Nice route.
|
●
Face Value
|
S Platte
> Elevenmile Canyon
> Elevenmile Dome
|
|
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sport
|
Jul 21, 2023 · TR. clean. easy route
|
●
The Overleaf
|
S Platte
> Elevenmile Canyon
> Elevenmile Dome
|
|
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Trad 2 pitches
|
Jul 14, 2023 · 1 pitch. Lead / Fell/Hung. P.1 only. Hung to rest below the roof. The roof has good hand jams and jugs, put feet left. Below the roof was blank and greasy, required a few feet of grovely bombay chimney esq OW. Whole route is probably 5.6 or 5.7. Roof 5.9 moves. Blank section below roof maybe 5.10 for 3 feet... so maybe averages to 5.8??? P.1 is maybe 200 feet. 2 ropes. Double rack 0.4 - 5. Extra hands. Nuts! Everything slings on double length or single when closer to anchor.
|
●
Blue Sun
|
Southeast Utah
> Indian Creek
> Way Rambo
|
|
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Trad
|
Apr 28, 2023 · TR. Followed J's first trad crack lead! Crux may be at very end near chains where it's a little big. Easier then Supercrack I think. Clean TR to check all gear placements.
|
●
Fuzz
|
Southeast Utah
> Indian Creek
> Way Rambo
|
|
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Trad
|
Apr 28, 2023 · Lead / Fell/Hung. Enduro!! Technical crux is at bottom; have a spotter for it. Hand traverse at top is fun. Mega Enduro getting there. Not fit for it today and hung to rest once before final moves.
|
●
Pocket Rocket
|
Southeast Utah
> …
> Day Canyon
> Day Canyon Cragging R…
|
|
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sport
|
Apr 27, 2023 · TR. Still not clean. Can't get the bottom crux without TR help. Hung a bunch to rest. Need WAYYY more pinch grip and lock-off strength to get clean.
|
●
Crack Slabbath
|
Southeast Utah
> Indian Creek
> Beach
|
|
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Trad
|
Apr 26, 2023 · Lead / Flash.
|
●
Waikiki
|
Southeast Utah
> Indian Creek
> Beach
|
|
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Trad 2 pitches
|
Apr 26, 2023 · Lead / Fell/Hung. With tight #1 hands, this was hard!! Cruiser up to the crux: pinch #3 below and #4 above, leaning. Couldn't get my feet above the pinch. Pulled on my cam for several moves until established above.
|
●
Kelley Route 10
|
Southeast Utah
> Indian Creek
> Beach
|
|
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Trad
|
Apr 24, 2023 · Lead / Flash. The hands are tight 1 and black Metolius. Has some cruxy sections that don't really accommodate stopping. Good route, I liked it. Really tough for J.
|
●
Kelly Route 11
|
Southeast Utah
> Indian Creek
> Beach
|
|
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Trad
|
Apr 24, 2023 · Lead / Flash. The slot is in fact a PIA! Not technically hard but very grunty! Did it as a warm-up.
|
●
FootLoose
|
Southeast Utah
> …
> Take-Out Beach
> Cinema
|
|
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sport
|
Apr 22, 2023 · TR. TRed clean. Would require stick clip to lead. At 5'1 crux was few moves to the first bolt. Required committing lock-offs with no feet. Route was cruiser 5.9 from there. Give it 5.10 for those few height dependant moves.
|
●
One Eyed Willy
|
Southeast Utah
> …
> Take-Out Beach
> Cinema
|
|
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sport
|
Apr 22, 2023 · TR.
|
●
Schooldaze
|
S Platte
> Elevenmile Canyon
> Turret Dome
|
|
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Trad 3 pitches
|
Apr 1, 2023 · Solo. Solo w/J. Fun. Finished with easier route to summit (around the right). Downclimbing the decent route was okay.
|
●
Hot Foot and High Step
|
Buena Vista
> Bob's Rock
|
|
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sport
|
Nov 6, 2022 · TR. TR. Cold and windy. Fell couple times at first crux - needed a high left foot and almost layback up couple inches to reach VERY good rail. Otherwise clean.
|
●
Hot Chills
|
Buena Vista
> Bob's Rock
|
7
|
|
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Trad
|
Nov 6, 2022 · Lead / Flash. Lead. Fun and only 5.9, but sparse and fiddly pro with ledges to land on.
|
●
Left Handed Jew
|
S Platte
> Turkey Rocks
> Turkey Perch
|
|
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Trad, TR
|
Oct 30, 2022 · Lead / Flash. Lead. Bring long static rope to sling boulder for TR.
|
●
Honky Jam Ass Crack
|
S Platte
> Turkey Rocks
> Turkey Perch
|
|
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Trad, TR
|
Oct 30, 2022 · Lead / Flash. Lead.
|
●
Stiff, Little Fingers
|
S Platte
> Turkey Rocks
> Turkey Perch
|
|
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sport
|
Oct 30, 2022 · TR. TR. Thin slab/tiny little pinches. Hung a bunch to rest. Had to pull up just a few inches at 3 blank sections (bolts 1, 2, 4). Otherwise was able to connect all the moves.
|
●
Easy Chimney
|
S Platte
> Turkey Rocks
> Turkey Perch
|
111
|
|
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Trad
|
Oct 30, 2022 · Lead / Flash. Very good for the grade - more interesting and fun then I expected. Full of finger and hand cracks to place gear and keep the climbing chill.
|
●
Ragger Bagger
|
S Platte
> Turkey Rocks
> Turkey Perch
|
|
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trad
|
Oct 29, 2022 · Lead / Flash. Lead. I thought very good for the grade. The OW and stemming sections kept things interesting. Lots of good tight hands along the way for me too.
|
●
Gobble Up
|
S Platte
> Turkey Rocks
> Turkey Perch
|
|
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trad
|
Oct 29, 2022 · Lead / Flash. Lead. Good enough warm-up. Bigger than I thought, lots of cups and fists.
|
●
Two Buck Chuck
|
Southeast Utah
> …
> Long Canyon
> First Switchback
|
|
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Trad
|
Oct 18, 2022 · TR. TR clean. Very fun route, would be 4 star if twice as long. Crux was going from stem and getting leg into offwidth.
|