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Tony Ly

Wichita, KS
35 years old · Male

Member Since
Aug 3, 2014
Last Visit: 21 hours ago
35 Points
Point Rank: #20,115 DetailsDrop down

Tony is in the Partner Finder
Best Times to Meet: Anytime
Likes Trad, Sport
Leads Follows
Trad 5.11d 5.12b
Sport 5.12c 5.13a
Boulders V5
Favorite Climbs
Nosferatus at El Salto, Vision Quest at the Creek, Swedish Fish and Super Best Friends at the Red, White Noise and Burned at the Stake at Rock Creek, Special Delivery at Ten Sleep, Epinephrine at Red Rock, Son of Easy O at the Gunks
Other Interests
3D printing/modeling, DIY, snowboarding, chess, tabletop games, engineering
Member of
More Info


Ticks View All 897

5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 121
Dead Dog
May 3, 2026 · Lead / Redpoint. re-sent/RP hanging draws with Lyle belaying. Been on this a few times on previous trips but apparently never logged it (sent it years ago pre-covid but not 1st go). Holds are good enough but some are definitely worse than others. Took video (~8min gnd to anchors). Not as pumpy-feeling with the fitness I have now. Great, quality route!
Sport
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 24
Carhartts Recommended
May 3, 2026 · Lead / Redpoint. w/ Lyle, Roo Roo, Kriston, Maisy. Re-sent. Led hanging draws to set up TR for crew. I do love me some chimneying and popping out at the top is fun. Left wrist felt okay-ish pressing but had to be mindful angle I was pressing.
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 62
Brick Attack
May 2, 2026 · Lead / Fell/Hung. Gingerly testing LH wrist on slab (mellow but still thoughtful approach to roof). Clipped 1st roof draw and attempted static beta reaching RH to ticked jug rail using LH sidepull/undercling and RF tippytoed at base of roof. Shy by about 3-4" at 5' 6" height, 0" ape index and fell. Checked and confirmed that arm span is too short to maintain when reach RH jug rail (face in the wall) and RF also too far to prevent cutting. Next time when left wrist is 100%: Try RH undercling, LH sidepull, RF toe in at base of roof, LF heel hook rail, push off RF and pop RH up to jug rail dynamically giving up both RF and LH, but trying to maintain LF heel hook. Fom dead hang on jug rail, climbed clean and felt relatively mellow to anchors following chalk/tickmarks (commit to big moves on good holds). LF high left side for clipping 2nd roof perma then LH side pull, RH jug. Used Evolv Phantom Pros.
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 61
Lips and Assholes
May 2, 2026 · Lead / Redpoint. w/ Lyle, Maisy, Kriston, Roo Roo. Led on pre-hung draws feeling out left wrist which was fine even with a brief slowly loaded gaston at crux. Feels like 10c with decent beta. Wish it were longer.
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 35
Dancing Queen
May 2, 2026 · Follow. w/ Kriston, Maisy, Lyle, Roo Roo after doing slab TRs. Followed to feel out LH wrist (felt okay). Stayed at top to take photos of Lyle. Always a fun route!
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
 23
Flat Fields
May 2, 2026 · TR. w/ Lyle, Maisy, Kriston, Roo Roo. TR flash (TR set up by Lyle who traversed from Red Faced Lizard). Barely pulled on LH feeling out a tweaky wrist from earlier in the week.
Trad, Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Dead Dog North-Central A… > … > 4. E Main Bluff > Dead Dog & Energamata…
 121
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
May 3, 2026 · Lead / Redpoint. re-sent/RP hanging draws with Lyle belaying. Been on this a few times on previous trips but apparently never logged it (sent it years ago pre-covid but not 1st go). Holds are good enough but some are definitely worse than others. Took video (~8min gnd to anchors). Not as pumpy-feeling with the fitness I have now. Great, quality route!
Carhartts Recommended North-Central A… > … > 4. E Main Bluff > Dead Dog & Energamata…
 24
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
May 3, 2026 · Lead / Redpoint. w/ Lyle, Roo Roo, Kriston, Maisy. Re-sent. Led hanging draws to set up TR for crew. I do love me some chimneying and popping out at the top is fun. Left wrist felt okay-ish pressing but had to be mindful angle I was pressing.
Brick Attack North-Central A… > … > Cave Creek > 04. Brick Attack Area
 62
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
May 2, 2026 · Lead / Fell/Hung. Gingerly testing LH wrist on slab (mellow but still thoughtful approach to roof). Clipped 1st roof draw and attempted static beta reaching RH to ticked jug rail using LH sidepull/undercling and RF tippytoed at base of roof. Shy by about 3-4" at 5' 6" height, 0" ape index and fell. Checked and confirmed that arm span is too short to maintain when reach RH jug rail (face in the wall) and RF also too far to prevent cutting. Next time when left wrist is 100%: Try RH undercling, LH sidepull, RF toe in at base of roof, LF heel hook rail, push off RF and pop RH up to jug rail dynamically giving up both RF and LH, but trying to maintain LF heel hook. Fom dead hang on jug rail, climbed clean and felt relatively mellow to anchors following chalk/tickmarks (commit to big moves on good holds). LF high left side for clipping 2nd roof perma then LH side pull, RH jug. Used Evolv Phantom Pros.
Lips and Assholes North-Central A… > … > Cave Creek > 09. Meat Walls
 61
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
May 2, 2026 · Lead / Redpoint. w/ Lyle, Maisy, Kriston, Roo Roo. Led on pre-hung draws feeling out left wrist which was fine even with a brief slowly loaded gaston at crux. Feels like 10c with decent beta. Wish it were longer.
Dancing Queen North-Central A… > … > Cave Creek > 08. Cool Breeze Area
 35
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
May 2, 2026 · Follow. w/ Kriston, Maisy, Lyle, Roo Roo after doing slab TRs. Followed to feel out LH wrist (felt okay). Stayed at top to take photos of Lyle. Always a fun route!
Flat Fields North-Central A… > … > Cave Creek > 06. Flat Fields Slab…
 23
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 Trad, Sport
May 2, 2026 · TR. w/ Lyle, Maisy, Kriston, Roo Roo. TR flash (TR set up by Lyle who traversed from Red Faced Lizard). Barely pulled on LH feeling out a tweaky wrist from earlier in the week.

Tick Breakdown
Trad Sport Boulder Ice

Pitches Routes Days Out
90 Days 27 22 7
Last Year 51 43 14
5 Years 572 405 170
All Time 1,255 897 400

Where Tony Climbs

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