| Route Name |
Location |
Star Rating |
Difficulty |
Date |
|
●
Oedipal Complex
|
Central-W Casca…
> …
1
> World Wall Group
> World Wall
|
|
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sport
|
|
Sep 12, 2023 · 2 pitches. Lead / Redpoint. 1st go forgot about the tiny left foot I used to cross to the first good hold, and fell. 2nd go remembered about it and didn't fall.
|
|
●
Oedipal Complex
|
Central-W Casca…
> …
1
> World Wall Group
> World Wall
|
|
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sport
|
|
Sep 7, 2023 · 5 pitches. Lead / Fell/Hung. By implied popular demand no more beta in the ticks :) 3 TR to suss out all the sucker holds, 2 leads... 2nd time I thought it would go, got above the sloper/ball hold but then legs got all confused and messed up
|
|
●
Reptiles and Amphetamines
|
Central-W Casca…
> …
1
> World Wall Group
> World Wall
|
|
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sport
|
|
Sep 7, 2023 · Follow.
|
|
●
[L] Vanilla Ice
|
Central-W Casca…
> …
1
> World Wall Group
> World Wall
|
|
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Sport
|
|
Sep 4, 2023 · Lead / Fell/Hung. Felt lazy after double send + people were waiting, got one bolt past anchors, fell and didn't pull up
|
|
●
Bust the Move
|
Central-W Casca…
> …
1
> World Wall Group
> World Wall
|
|
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sport
|
|
Sep 4, 2023 · Lead / Fell/Hung. End of day, bicep cramps
|
|
●
Propaganda
|
Central-W Casca…
> …
1
> World Wall Group
> World Wall
|
|
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Sport
|
|
Sep 4, 2023 · Lead / Redpoint. What a day! Almost pumped off past and after the last bolt, but stuck with it. Pausing for precision just like on hydro felt really good. Lots of support from below and above :)
|
|
●
[E] Hydrophobia
|
Central-W Casca…
> …
1
> World Wall Group
> World Wall
|
|
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Sport
|
|
Sep 4, 2023 · Lead / Redpoint. Felt weak all up to the gaston shake... then somehow did crux slowly, even the undercling flip, really in control. Lf flag to get the crimp, I wonder if I found the flag earlier I could have put this down 10 attempts ago. Nice to finally be done with it!
|
|
●
Climax Control
|
Central-W Casca…
> …
1
> Country Area
> (c) The Country
|
|
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sport
|
|
Sep 2, 2023 · Follow. Conceivably leadable due to close bolting, although mantle off the sloper really sucks. lf intermediate and hop up? In lower slopers go left first then high feet. Higher up, l crack sidepull, higher r crack sidepull, bump to good l sidepull always with good feet
|
|
●
Cunning Stunt
|
Central-W Casca…
> …
1
> Country Area
> (c) The Country
|
|
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sport
|
|
Sep 2, 2023 · Lead / Fell/Hung. Mostly easy except for the part with no feet... need to learn to trust small smeary feet
|
|
●
Golden Road
|
Central-W Casca…
> …
1
> Upper Town Wall
> (d) Dana's Arch Area
|
|
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sport 5 pitches
|
|
Sep 2, 2023 · Follow. Real fun climbing except for crux high steps
|
|
●
Propaganda
|
Central-W Casca…
> …
1
> World Wall Group
> World Wall
|
|
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Sport
|
|
Aug 23, 2023 · 2 pitches. Lead / Fell/Hung. Weak after vacation. Repeated high point minus one move but felt weak... 2nd go with too little rest too, mostly for exercise. Try to place left foot at the last bolt part.
|
|
●
[E] Hydrophobia
|
Central-W Casca…
> …
1
> World Wall Group
> World Wall
|
|
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Sport
|
|
Aug 23, 2023 · Lead / Fell/Hung. Warmup... weak after vacation. Not sure this will even go this year. Sigh.
|
|
●
Psycho Wussy
|
Central-W Casca…
> …
1
> World Wall Group
> World Wall
|
|
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sport
|
|
Aug 23, 2023 · Lead / Redpoint. More feet
|
|
●
La Fin de Babylone
|
Europe
> …
1
2
> Aiguilles Rouges
> Le Brévent
|
|
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sport 8 pitches
|
|
Aug 19, 2023 · Lead / Fell/Hung. W/Robbie. Led 2-7, hung a couple times on the traverse and foot slipped on 6b+ roof. On traverse key beta was rf on little fin thing (after going high first) then step down from that to have better hands and go low and wide.
Really cool route, all the pitches are good, even the blocky corner on the last pitch
|
|
●
Hörnligrat Route
|
Europe
> …
> Zermatt area
> Matterhorn
|
|
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Trad, Alpine
|
|
Aug 11, 2023 · DNF. W/guide. Made it to around the shoulder at ~4100-4200m, then the rock became wet/icy... slippery scrambling with a death fall is not my cup of tea. The guide suggested turning around; given how slow I was going down vs up, it was a good call. Lauren summited!
|
|
●
Voie Rébuffat-Baquet
|
Europe
> …
1
2
> Midi - Tacul
> Aiguille du Midi
|
|
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Trad, Alpine 11 pitches
|
|
Aug 8, 2023 · Follow. Sweet route! S crack pitch was really sweet and was also dry, some of the easy stuff was kinda icy but still nice.
No falls except the pitch after S crack, went the wrong way and slipped on wet feet. Also approach is harder than climbing :)
|
|
●
Viagro
|
Central-W Casca…
> …
1
> World Wall Group
> World Wall
|
|
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sport
|
|
Aug 3, 2023 · Lead / Fell/Hung. I thought prop was open, then I went there and it was suddenly taken, and when I went back hydro was also suddenly taken... so I climbed this.
|
|
●
Shih Tzu Jiu-Jitsu 11: Pupp…
|
Central-W Casca…
> …
1
> Woods Group
> (b) The Woods
|
|
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sport
|
|
Aug 3, 2023 · 2 pitches. Lead / Redpoint. 1st go lots of takes. 2nd go send although it was a fight. Knowing where holds are I didn't need much beta, lots of the send beta was different from 1st go. Sharp/spooky in places, esp. the arete... cool heel-toe cam!
|
|
●
[E] Hydrophobia
|
Central-W Casca…
> …
1
> World Wall Group
> World Wall
|
|
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Sport
|
|
Aug 1, 2023 · Lead / Fell/Hung. Last climb of the (hot) day, no expectations yet felt good, but somehow forgot to flip into undercling and fell due to bungled beta. One change - skip the first lf move in the thin section.
|
|
●
Psycho Wussy
|
Central-W Casca…
> …
1
> World Wall Group
> World Wall
|
|
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sport
|
|
Aug 1, 2023 · Lead / Redpoint. Terrible style, jumping without feet all over the place... really need to force myself to use feet.
|
|
●
Propaganda
|
Central-W Casca…
> …
1
> World Wall Group
> World Wall
|
|
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Sport
|
|
Aug 1, 2023 · 2 pitches. Lead / Fell/Hung. Repeated high point despite greasy conditions. Clip from pebble and high lf. When moving lf at crux focus on hips left, or gaston may grease off. No need to move rf much before lh bump at coffin exit. Off pinch, lf out left and rf to the right of the chalked one. Good focus for feet and throw without crimp intermediate. Shake sideways. Low rf for next move, shuffle rf after going left, then after (not the top) sidepull. Keep rf on the edge of rail for as long as possible. Potential shake with rh on end of rail and both feet out right. Them move lh left of rail, rh end of rail, obv lower lf and throw from it. Lf before clipping jug.
|
|
●
Propaganda
|
Central-W Casca…
> …
1
> World Wall Group
> World Wall
|
|
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Sport
|
|
Jul 30, 2023 · Lead / Fell/Hung. 2-hang and high point to before the big jug, past both cruxes! Got gaston wrong... part of the reason, I couldn't believe I'm still going. Also the damn sidepull ripped my finger again.
From sidepull, lf up a bit on low slopy, rf up a lot, lf up a bit to upper slopy, then clip. Every move from there to jug felt like the last one but somehow I didn't fall.
Coffin exit - lf, rh flake first, then rf, then the same. Lf for pinch - on little knob is better. Off pinch lf out left for sure. Rest on jug with feet high left. On high rf sequence, there are 3 sidepulls, top 2 are better. Shuffle rf before going for the rail, it's best just off the right end. Step down before traversing. Commit to small lf to throw, then small rf and rh jug.
|
|
●
[E] Hydrophobia
|
Central-W Casca…
> …
1
> World Wall Group
> World Wall
|
|
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Sport
|
|
Jul 30, 2023 · 2 pitches. Lead / Fell/Hung. 1st go high point again... crux crimp for half a second. FML... tried crux variations without rest. Def upper sidepull, and square. Maybe flag and brace lf instead of toe or I dunno, be stronger one day. 2nd go fell off at start of the thin part, lol. Does feel like 2nd go I'm weaker after doing the crux 3-4 times on first. And also good to brush maybe.
|
|
●
Sweet Tooth
|
Central-W Casca…
> …
1
> World Wall Group
> World Wall
|
|
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sport
|
|
Jul 30, 2023 · Lead / Fell/Hung. To the first roof eod. Tried to copy tall beta from Chris, but my legs are longer and it still feels utterly impossible to make any feet work
|
|
●
[E] Hydrophobia
|
Central-W Casca…
> …
1
> World Wall Group
> World Wall
|
|
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Sport
|
|
Jul 27, 2023 · Lead / Fell/Hung. Much worse than before, even fell in the thin section, and also going to undercling. Crux - lf first and drop a bit. And place thumb and take a breath on sidepull.
|
|
●
Propaganda
|
Central-W Casca…
> …
1
> World Wall Group
> World Wall
|
|
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Sport
|
|
Jul 27, 2023 · 2 pitches. Lead / Fell/Hung. Really grateful someone gave me a catch!
high point to before last gaston, 1.5 move before jug. Also linked from sidepull thru crux. Linking the top is still aspirational.
On 2nd go I forgot what to do with feet after sidepull. Clip there is still sketchy, might want to extend it.
Coffin exit - lf out, lh side, rh foothold(?), rf edge, lh, rf, rh, lh. Pinch move feels like crap but still works.. crimp close to pinch! Possibly next lf out and not on the flake. Pause at gaston, but then fast crimp-jump, neither just jumping, nor pause on crimp worked. Then my finger hurts when using the rail but high rf sequence works, keep toe and hips in.
|
|
●
Propaganda
|
Central-W Casca…
> …
1
> World Wall Group
> World Wall
|
|
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Sport
|
|
Jul 25, 2023 · Lead / Fell/Hung. To the chains. Sadly my finger is already ripped right where sharp sidepull cuts it.
Crux ok but careful rf so it doesn't lever off. Coffin exit - lf left, rf dark edge, lh side, lf higher(?), rf chalked edge, bump lh, rh good and lh jug. Need to link upper part and find shakes on jugs.
|
|
●
[E] Hydrophobia
|
Central-W Casca…
> …
1
> World Wall Group
> World Wall
|
|
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Sport
|
|
Jul 25, 2023 · 2 pitches. Lead / Fell/Hung. Repeated high point. Feels mental... do rest a lot on gaston just to recover the mental state/breath. Really focus on good lf to go to underclings. Then bad lh before rh undercling. For crux, also focus each rf->lf->side pull->toe in and slower on crimp reach...
|
|
●
The Edge of Time Arete
|
Central-W Casca…
> Snoqualmie Pass…
> Fang
|
|
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sport, Alpine 7 pitches
|
|
Jul 23, 2023 · Lead / Onsight. led odd pitches. Really cool! Although the last pitch is kinda chossy
|
|
●
The Warm Up
|
Central-W Casca…
> …
1
> Deception Crags
> Nevermind Wall
|
|
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sport
|
|
Jul 20, 2023 · 4 pitches. Lead / Redpoint. 2nd go one hang just before top-out.
3rd go shredded my finger (luckily not the pad) when my foot slipped while in the sharp horn pocket thing.
4th go send!
|
|
●
Architect Rally
|
Central-W Casca…
> …
1
> Deception Crags
> Nevermind Wall
|
|
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sport
|
|
Jul 20, 2023 · Lead / Redpoint.
|
|
●
Neverigine
|
Central-W Casca…
> …
1
> Deception Crags
> Nevermind Wall
|
|
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sport
|
|
Jul 20, 2023 · Lead. Not amazing just before the sun is gone cause it's hard to see anything to the right
|
|
●
Propaganda
|
Central-W Casca…
> …
1
> World Wall Group
> World Wall
|
|
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Sport
|
|
Jul 18, 2023 · Lead / Fell/Hung. one hang to coffin, crux beta seems to work... really key to step rf /under/ the obvious one and lever lf way out before going to the undercling/gaston.
Lower, clip off sidepull instead of high? but feet are still scary. Before crux, rf up to edge before lf to knob?
need to sort out coffin exit, feels way pumpy, try directly left with big moves?
Off the pinch, lf on obvious flake with tick first. Off sidepull, also use flat rf with big tick out of many options I think. Gaston-crimp-throw in one go.
|
|
●
Sweet Tooth
|
Central-W Casca…
> …
1
> World Wall Group
> World Wall
|
|
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sport
|
|
Jul 18, 2023 · Lead / Fell/Hung. Still dunno how to do lower crux with long legs... I'm ready to just dyno but cannot even find one foot for that.
|
|
●
[E] Hydrophobia
|
Central-W Casca…
> …
1
> World Wall Group
> World Wall
|
|
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Sport
|
|
Jul 18, 2023 · Lead / Fell/Hung. Worse than last time, it was hot.. fell off underclings. Tried crux from high feet - no. Lf highest low good, rf as before, and toe in, that's it.
|
|
●
Psycho Wussy
|
Central-W Casca…
> …
1
> World Wall Group
> World Wall
|
|
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sport
|
|
Jul 18, 2023 · Lead. Barely redpointed to first chains (foot slips all over), went a bit higher but without commitment
|
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