aschmidt > Comments
Aug 3, 2020
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I found myself wishing I had more gear than a couple #1-3 metolius size. I'd probably bring doubles up to a…
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Aug 3, 2020
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Great addition to the crag. The upper part is awesome but the lower part is a bit squeezed between the natu…
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Aug 3, 2020
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I thought this was just as hard, and just as good as Spectre. Quality route with varied climbing. Crux is m…
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Aug 3, 2020
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Wish I'd seen Alex's comments before jumping on this last weekend. I climbed up to the anchor in the alcove…
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Sep 5, 2019
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Please avoid the use of cam hooks in soft rock (which I would consider Smith Rock to be) especially on a cl…
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Aug 26, 2019
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Book says bring a #3 but I would have felt better with a #4. Keep your cool getting to the third bolt. Awkw…
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Aug 26, 2019
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Getting to the first bolt is pretty scary due to flaky rock and awkward body stemming, a bolt below here wo…
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Aug 26, 2019
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This route is too long to rappel with a single 70m rope, but it is possible to swing over left to the ancho…
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Aug 26, 2019
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If not for the more difficult start and obscure location, the fun, easy, well-bolted upper pitches would be…
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Aug 26, 2019
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Crux is pretty desperate slabbing for the grade but eases up quickly. Not as sustained or good as the two r…
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Aug 26, 2019
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Grainy slopers with weird bolt placements. Might be better if it got more traffic but hard for me to recomm…
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Aug 26, 2019
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This is NOT the furthest right route on this section of the wall as described above; that would be Yankee C…
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Aug 26, 2019
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The anchors are not above the climbs, where the Bingham guide shows, but in an annoying location on the top…
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Aug 26, 2019
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I believe Godstopper and Rat Crack are reversed. Rat Crack climbs the corner. Worth noting that the anchors…
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Nov 12, 2015
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A 70 m works fine to lower off this route. It was very sandy when I did it so it didn't live up to its 4-st…
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Nov 12, 2015
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The plaque appears to say "Pee Line". This route doesn't match the description in the Kelley book well. Goo…
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Oct 26, 2015
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A day use permit IS required for the White Rim road with a limit of 50 vehicles per day. There are usually…
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Jan 10, 2015
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To clarify, there is a bolt with quicklink at the top of this climb, but if you climb over the top and step…
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Jan 10, 2015
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You can easily lower off this route with a 70m, so it is shorter than the 140' stated in the Handren guide.…
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Dec 2, 2014
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Route had good steel permadraws when I did it, and the bolts looked fine. You have to hang your own draws o…
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Dec 1, 2014
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If you do the .11c extension, be aware that there is no anchor, at least not that I could find. There is an…
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Nov 11, 2014
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I had to look up the Food Fighters to learn more about all of Dave's great route names in the Swell: en.wik…
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Nov 4, 2014
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The guidebook compares this route to Layaway Plan. If that route had loose, dirty, sharp rock, a crappy anc…
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May 20, 2013
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This route is more like 115 feet long, a 70m rope is adequate to lower and TR. Bring a lot of .5 and .75 C4…
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Dec 5, 2012
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Climbed this recently and pulled out an anchor bolt at the top of p2 with my fingers. It was a 2" wedge anc…
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