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Matthew Clausen > Comments
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Jun 15, 2021
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I love the FA story! Worth climbing this route just to honor that. For beta: the first 5 pitches are rea…
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Jun 6, 2021
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Kathryn Floyd and I completed this on June 5, 2021. Scheduling limitations meant we did this on a 90 degree…
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May 17, 2021
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Gokul and I used a 30m, 7.5mm rope. The stretch was just enough for us to reach the bottom of Anthrax and r…
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May 4, 2021
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I've just assumed that Ben chose "Chivalrous" to keep with the "Noble/Royal" theme as well as because this…
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Oct 23, 2020
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Thanks for sharing the advice, Benjamin! I support your recommendation for top roping and I see how this ph…
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Oct 23, 2020
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Thanks for sharing the advice, Benjamin! The context for this photo is that I led to this anchor, took the…
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Apr 18, 2018
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As of 4/11/2018, there is a rap station at the top of this route. Webbing and rap rings around the tree at…
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Apr 18, 2018
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@Mindy Mitchell, I tried to find it in English a couple years ago and had no luck. I tried finding the auth…
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Mar 23, 2017
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Guide Book blurb.com/b/7738598-hnappav…
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Mar 23, 2017
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It is a photo from a decades old book at the hut, home published it looked like. I.e., two-sided print comp…
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Jan 22, 2017
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Jess and I thought there were 2 or 3 moves of 5.9 towards the bottom, but the rest was 5.8. Because the loc…
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Jan 22, 2017
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This route should definitely be on your to-do list, even if you have very limited time at Hnappavallahamrar.
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Jan 22, 2017
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Some people really like this route and might even call it classic. I am in the camp that thought it was a w…
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Jan 21, 2017
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Clip stick? Some of the first clips are a bit high (but not all). If you like the comfort of having the fir…
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Jan 21, 2017
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Beta spray: There's a great thigh hold for clipping the third bolt.
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Jan 18, 2017
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I wish I'd had time to actually climb down here. I only made it this far down the cliff for some really…
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Jan 18, 2017
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Everything here is accessible by foot. Even though there's a vehicle path that runs the length of the cliff…
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Jan 18, 2017
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For detailed route listings in this area, check out the Iceland Alpine Club's Kaldakinn page isalp.is/c…
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Jan 17, 2017
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In Iceland, you might ask yourself, often, "How the hell am I supposed to say that word?" Or, &qu…
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Jan 3, 2017
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Locals do not recommend drinking from the stream directly west of the hut, even with a filter. Another opti…
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Oct 4, 2014
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It was a fun first attempt! I'm stoked to get back and complete it. One of the time inefficiencies was star…
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Oct 3, 2014
Baraboo Range
> Devil's Lake
> E Bluff 04 - E…
> 08: Two Pines B…
> Thoroughfare (5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c)
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I don't recall her name, but I admired her ethic as she worked that line. Awesome when she sent it! Good ph…
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Aug 18, 2014
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Beautiful line that has a fun variety of moves. I'm psyched to lead it after a couple times on TR.
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Aug 18, 2014
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Not nearly as dirty these days, and protects well enough. The crack is on a flake system, so I wouldn't wan…
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Aug 10, 2014
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Climbing with Cesar and Ruben as guides. They took us to an awesome canyon outside Boquete for our first ti…
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Apr 23, 2014
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I was skeptical at first on the fun value of this route, but definitely worth it. An easy practice at multi…
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Apr 22, 2014
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Me: "You want me to go left -now-?" James: "Yeah, about there is fine." Me: "You mean through this tree?"…
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Apr 22, 2014
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Awesome warm-up crack with more protection options than you have any need for and sweet moves. Add another…
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