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5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 19
Starless in Vantage
Sep 23, 2018 · Lead / Flash. W Dave Yoon. Ok, not great. Bolts a bit spaced.
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 25
Group Therapy
Sep 23, 2018 · Lead / Flash. W Dave Yoon. Fun, but glad Dave hung the draws.
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 8
Mr. Nice Guy
Sep 23, 2018 · Lead / Flash. W Dave Yoon. Lovely. Was fun, reasonably safe, although would have felt very different if Dave hadn’t already hung the draws.
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 180
Air Guitar
Sep 23, 2018 · TR.
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 42
Desert Dessert
Sep 23, 2018 · TR. W Dave Yoon. Really cool free-standing Pillar with varied climbing and fun moves. Upper section tricky; you’re very spread out, like climbing a refrigerator.
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 440
Outer Space
Sep 7, 2018 · Lead / Onsight. Direct start w Ed. Led 1,3,5. Direct has good gear below but crux balanced, committing with only blind 000 above. P3 sustained, anchor takes 1 & .75. Phenomenal. P4 easy runout. P5 tons of #1-3 esp 2, anchor 0.5x2 + red-yellow offset. P6 60m to boulder.
Trad 6 pitches
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 211
Aries (aka The Lizard)
Sep 1, 2018 · Lead. W Andrew. Only hung on P1. Good gear. Bring the #4. Every pitch is fun!
Trad 5 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 287
Great Northern Slab
Sep 1, 2018 · Lead. W Andrew H.
Trad 3 pitches
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 218
Slot Machine
Aug 21, 2018 · Lead / Onsight. W Dave. Phenomenal secure crack, good pro. 1st bit tricky but protects w .75 out right. Would not recommend linking pitches because rope gets stuck in crack. Rapping from top, keep rope climbers’ right around the bulge (straight down).
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 289
Princely Ambitions
Aug 9, 2018 · 1 pitch. Lead / Flash. W random friends from the parking lot. Gear adequate (flake is fine although it’s not my favorite), some drag, leftward traverse is burly hand-traverse or a catwalk. Crux is rightward slab. Very engaging.
Trad 2 pitches
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 211
Aries (aka The Lizard)
Aug 9, 2018 · 2 pitches. Lead. Not clean, with friends from the parking lot. Would have appreciated a #4 on P1, but I think it wasn’t strictly necessary. Great climb, great pro on P1-2. Burly.
Trad 5 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 42
Rapple Grapple
Aug 1, 2018 · Lead / Onsight. W Nick W. Didn’t like some of the gear or the death blocks. Not very fun. Would not repeat or recommend.
Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 166
Fat City Crack
Jul 22, 2018 · Lead / Onsight. Led P1 w Dave. P1 harder than it looked, flaring, insecure, took 0.5 everywhere, pretty sustained - sent. Hung on P2 roof. Fell in P3 cave. Fun P2 and cave finish. Some scrambling P3. Descent pretty solidly 3rd done correctly. Dave led P3 due to thunder.
Trad 3 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 17
Crack of Delight
Jul 22, 2018 · Lead / Onsight. Simul-led w Dave. I led P 1.5-4 in one long pitch. Pro borderline sparse in places but really fine. Not too chossy (although it’s still beneath Broadway Ledge) - seemingly a good alternative to chimney approach.
Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 80
D7
Jul 21, 2018 · 1 pitch. Follow. W Dave. P1 fun but had several toaster-to-microwave-sized death blocks. There was a very solid bail anchor at the top of P1; we rapped w doubles to avoid weather.
Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 4
The Womb
Jul 14, 2018 · Lead / Onsight. W Tash. Dirty and not very fun.
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 19
Kubla Khan and the Fountain of Eterna…
Jul 14, 2018 · TR. W Tash.
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 19
Kubla Khan and the Fountain of Eterna…
Jul 14, 2018 · Lead / Onsight. W Tash. Fun, engaging. Fun, would repeat.
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 76
Flyboys
Jul 14, 2018 · Lead / Onsight. Swapped leads w Tash, then led all. Phenomenally close bolting. Lots of interspersed scrambles and some loose rock. Pitches become great as you go up. Rap comfortable w single 70m.
Sport 18 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 57
Hurly-Burly
Jul 7, 2018 · TR. Other party had a rope on it. Much easier after the first set of anchors.
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 73
Glob Job
Jul 7, 2018 · Lead / Onsight.
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 101
Some Drugs
Jul 4, 2018 · Lead / Onsight. W Alex.
Sport
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 42
Your Sister
Jul 4, 2018 · Lead.
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 57
Hurly-Burly
Jul 4, 2018 · Lead.
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 57
Hurly-Burly
Jul 4, 2018 · Lead / Onsight.
Sport
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 213
Prime Rib of Goat
Jul 1, 2018 · Lead / Onsight. Swapped w Andrew H. Fun, but some loose rock and some scramble pitches. Generous bolting; no need for gear. Headwall after scramble pitch requires creativity to rap w 60m rope.
Sport 11 pitches
Mod. Snow
 229
Ingraham Glacier-Disappointment Cleav…
Jun 24, 2018 · W Clay and Dave. Up at 0000, climbing by 0115, behind slow parties, summit 8:30, parking lot 1437.
Trad, Snow, Alpine
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 520
Commitment
Jun 10, 2018 · Lead / Onsight. W Clay. Led P2. Whole climb secure with good gear. P3 roof has beta in MP comments. Phenomenal climbing with great views. Would repeat. Each pitch felt soft for the grade.
Trad 3 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 234
Regular Route (Higher Cathedral Spire)
Jun 9, 2018 · 5 pitches. Lead / Onsight. W Clay, Led P1,3,5. Didn’t like gear on P3- broken. Got blind #1, then traversed high through notch above tree from jug in broken orange rock on R. Gear on P5 not great either. Spectacular summit. Std rt soft for the grade. Raps with a 60m barely.
Trad 4 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 472
Matthes Crest Traverse - South to North
Jun 7, 2018 · Lead. Simuled w Clay. Spectacular. 5.8 downclimbing full-value but protectable. Downsteps reachy. Gear minimal on Wave, but can anchor at end. 4 hrs to N summit and then another 4 for last 3rd. Descended before 3rd-to-last tower. Extra big cams for long simuls.
Trad, Alpine
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 287
West Country
Jun 6, 2018 · Lead / Onsight. W Clay, led P1,3. Cannot link 2-3. P2 slick, insecure, no good lieback edge, few good finger locks- but low angle. P3 runout but not awful. Roped to the top after P4. Roped to 1st rap. Had to make rap anchors. 2x60m raps, then still somewhat 4th class.
Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 572
West Crack
Jun 5, 2018 · Lead. Led P1, P4 w Clay (who linked P2-3 with a 60m). Had previously done P1 w Josh Z, but then got rained off. We took the L ramp at top. P1 start hard but ok. P2 reachy. Wide bit took #4 but ?probably ok w/o larger (Clay led). Super fun. Descent 3rd + 2 raps
Trad 5 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 275
Apoplexy
May 28, 2018 · TR. Again. To make 28 combined pitches and one for good luck for Tash’s birthday. Upper sequence is harder if short- more fun!
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 275
Apoplexy
May 28, 2018 · Follow. Followed Clay w Tash. Would not lead because run-out start. Fun.
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 282
MF
May 28, 2018 · 1 pitch. Follow. Followed Clay w Tash. Also TR’d direct variation which seems bit to have good gear. Fun, hard. Would be nice to put a directional above the hard upper sequence.
Trad 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 457
Son of Easy O
May 28, 2018 · Follow. Followed Clay w Tash in 1 pitch. Would lead. Just bring gear that fits below piton. There is only one not-great hold on P2. This was my first 5.8 lead w Sam B. Super fun.
Trad 2 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Starless in Vantage Central Region > Vantage (French… > Zig Zag Wall
 19
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Sep 23, 2018 · Lead / Flash. W Dave Yoon. Ok, not great. Bolts a bit spaced.
Group Therapy Central Region > Vantage (French… > Zig Zag Wall
 25
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Sep 23, 2018 · Lead / Flash. W Dave Yoon. Fun, but glad Dave hung the draws.
Mr. Nice Guy Central Region > Vantage (French… > Zig Zag Wall
 8
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Sep 23, 2018 · Lead / Flash. W Dave Yoon. Lovely. Was fun, reasonably safe, although would have felt very different if Dave hadn’t already hung the draws.
Air Guitar Central Region > … > Sunshine Wall > King Pins
 180
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Sep 23, 2018 · TR.
Desert Dessert Central Region > Vantage (French… > Middle E Wall
 42
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Sport
Sep 23, 2018 · TR. W Dave Yoon. Really cool free-standing Pillar with varied climbing and fun moves. Upper section tricky; you’re very spread out, like climbing a refrigerator.
Outer Space Central-E Casca… > … > Snow Creek Area > Snow Creek Wall
 440
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 6 pitches
Sep 7, 2018 · Lead / Onsight. Direct start w Ed. Led 1,3,5. Direct has good gear below but crux balanced, committing with only blind 000 above. P3 sustained, anchor takes 1 & .75. Phenomenal. P4 easy runout. P5 tons of #1-3 esp 2, anchor 0.5x2 + red-yellow offset. P6 60m to boulder.
Aries (aka The Lizard) Central-W Casca… > … > Lower Town Wall > Great Northern Slab
 211
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 5 pitches
Sep 1, 2018 · Lead. W Andrew. Only hung on P1. Good gear. Bring the #4. Every pitch is fun!
Great Northern Slab Central-W Casca… > … > Lower Town Wall > Great Northern Slab
 287
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 3 pitches
Sep 1, 2018 · Lead. W Andrew H.
Slot Machine Canada > … > Bulletheads > Bulletheads South
 218
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Aug 21, 2018 · Lead / Onsight. W Dave. Phenomenal secure crack, good pro. 1st bit tricky but protects w .75 out right. Would not recommend linking pitches because rope gets stuck in crack. Rapping from top, keep rope climbers’ right around the bulge (straight down).
Princely Ambitions Central-W Casca… > … > Lower Town Wall > Main Wall, left side
 289
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 2 pitches
Aug 9, 2018 · 1 pitch. Lead / Flash. W random friends from the parking lot. Gear adequate (flake is fine although it’s not my favorite), some drag, leftward traverse is burly hand-traverse or a catwalk. Crux is rightward slab. Very engaging.
Aries (aka The Lizard) Central-W Casca… > … > Lower Town Wall > Great Northern Slab
 211
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 5 pitches
Aug 9, 2018 · 2 pitches. Lead. Not clean, with friends from the parking lot. Would have appreciated a #4 on P1, but I think it wasn’t strictly necessary. Great climb, great pro on P1-2. Burly.
Rapple Grapple Northwest Region > … > Washington Pass > Liberty Bell
 42
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
Aug 1, 2018 · Lead / Onsight. W Nick W. Didn’t like some of the gear or the death blocks. Not very fun. Would not repeat or recommend.
Fat City Crack Estes Park Valley > … > Book > Pages Wall Area
 166
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad 3 pitches
Jul 22, 2018 · Lead / Onsight. Led P1 w Dave. P1 harder than it looked, flaring, insecure, took 0.5 everywhere, pretty sustained - sent. Hung on P2 roof. Fell in P3 cave. Fun P2 and cave finish. Some scrambling P3. Descent pretty solidly 3rd done correctly. Dave led P3 due to thunder.
Crack of Delight Alpine Rock > … > Long's Peak > Lower E Face
 17
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
Jul 22, 2018 · Lead / Onsight. Simul-led w Dave. I led P 1.5-4 in one long pitch. Pro borderline sparse in places but really fine. Not too chossy (although it’s still beneath Broadway Ledge) - seemingly a good alternative to chimney approach.
D7 Alpine Rock > … > Long's Peak > Diamond
 80
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
Jul 21, 2018 · 1 pitch. Follow. W Dave. P1 fun but had several toaster-to-microwave-sized death blocks. There was a very solid bail anchor at the top of P1; we rapped w doubles to avoid weather.
The Womb Central-W Casca… > … > Lookout Point Area > Rattletale Wall
 4
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Jul 14, 2018 · Lead / Onsight. W Tash. Dirty and not very fun.
Kubla Khan and the Fountain… Central-W Casca… > … > Lookout Point Area > Rattletale Wall
 19
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Jul 14, 2018 · TR. W Tash.
Kubla Khan and the Fountain… Central-W Casca… > … > Lookout Point Area > Rattletale Wall
 19
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Jul 14, 2018 · Lead / Onsight. W Tash. Fun, engaging. Fun, would repeat.
Flyboys Okanogan > Mazama > Goat Wall
 76
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport 18 pitches
Jul 14, 2018 · Lead / Onsight. Swapped leads w Tash, then led all. Phenomenally close bolting. Lots of interspersed scrambles and some loose rock. Pitches become great as you go up. Rap comfortable w single 70m.
Hurly-Burly Central-W Casca… > … > Exit 38: Decept… > Substation
 57
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Jul 7, 2018 · TR. Other party had a rope on it. Much easier after the first set of anchors.
Glob Job Central-W Casca… > … > Exit 38: Decept… > Substation
 73
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Jul 7, 2018 · Lead / Onsight.
Some Drugs Central-W Casca… > … > Exit 38: Decept… > We Did Rock
 101
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Jul 4, 2018 · Lead / Onsight. W Alex.
Your Sister Central-W Casca… > … > Exit 38: Decept… > We Did Rock
 42
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Jul 4, 2018 · Lead.
Hurly-Burly Central-W Casca… > … > Exit 38: Decept… > Substation
 57
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Jul 4, 2018 · Lead.
Hurly-Burly Central-W Casca… > … > Exit 38: Decept… > Substation
 57
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Jul 4, 2018 · Lead / Onsight.
Prime Rib of Goat Okanogan > Mazama > Goat Wall
 213
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Sport 11 pitches
Jul 1, 2018 · Lead / Onsight. Swapped w Andrew H. Fun, but some loose rock and some scramble pitches. Generous bolting; no need for gear. Headwall after scramble pitch requires creativity to rap w 60m rope.
Ingraham Glacier-Disappoint… Southwest Cascades > Mount Rainier
 229
Mod. Snow Trad, Snow, Alpine
Jun 24, 2018 · W Clay and Dave. Up at 0000, climbing by 0115, behind slow parties, summit 8:30, parking lot 1437.
Commitment Yosemite NP > … > Five Open Books > First Tier
 520
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 3 pitches
Jun 10, 2018 · Lead / Onsight. W Clay. Led P2. Whole climb secure with good gear. P3 roof has beta in MP comments. Phenomenal climbing with great views. Would repeat. Each pitch felt soft for the grade.
Regular Route (Higher Cathe… Yosemite NP > … > Cathedral Spire… > Higher Cathedral Spire
 234
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 4 pitches
Jun 9, 2018 · 5 pitches. Lead / Onsight. W Clay, Led P1,3,5. Didn’t like gear on P3- broken. Got blind #1, then traversed high through notch above tree from jug in broken orange rock on R. Gear on P5 not great either. Spectacular summit. Std rt soft for the grade. Raps with a 60m barely.
Matthes Crest Traverse - So… Yosemite NP > … > Cathedral Range > Matthes Crest
 472
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, Alpine
Jun 7, 2018 · Lead. Simuled w Clay. Spectacular. 5.8 downclimbing full-value but protectable. Downsteps reachy. Gear minimal on Wave, but can anchor at end. 4 hrs to N summit and then another 4 for last 3rd. Descended before 3rd-to-last tower. Extra big cams for long simuls.
West Country Yosemite NP > Tuolumne Meadows > Stately Pleasure Dome
 287
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
Jun 6, 2018 · Lead / Onsight. W Clay, led P1,3. Cannot link 2-3. P2 slick, insecure, no good lieback edge, few good finger locks- but low angle. P3 runout but not awful. Roped to the top after P4. Roped to 1st rap. Had to make rap anchors. 2x60m raps, then still somewhat 4th class.
West Crack Yosemite NP > … > Daff Dome > W Face
 572
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 5 pitches
Jun 5, 2018 · Lead. Led P1, P4 w Clay (who linked P2-3 with a 60m). Had previously done P1 w Josh Z, but then got rained off. We took the L ramp at top. P1 start hard but ok. P2 reachy. Wide bit took #4 but ?probably ok w/o larger (Clay led). Super fun. Descent 3rd + 2 raps
Apoplexy Gunks > Trapps > a1. The Uberfall - left
 275
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
May 28, 2018 · TR. Again. To make 28 combined pitches and one for good luck for Tash’s birthday. Upper sequence is harder if short- more fun!
Apoplexy Gunks > Trapps > a1. The Uberfall - left
 275
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
May 28, 2018 · Follow. Followed Clay w Tash. Would not lead because run-out start. Fun.
MF Gunks > Trapps > e. The Mac Wall (Some…
 282
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 2 pitches
May 28, 2018 · 1 pitch. Follow. Followed Clay w Tash. Also TR’d direct variation which seems bit to have good gear. Fun, hard. Would be nice to put a directional above the hard upper sequence.
Son of Easy O Gunks > Trapps > c. Frog's Head - the…
 457
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
May 28, 2018 · Follow. Followed Clay w Tash in 1 pitch. Would lead. Just bring gear that fits below piton. There is only one not-great hold on P2. This was my first 5.8 lead w Sam B. Super fun.