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5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 44
Flyboys
Jul 14, 2018 · Lead / Onsight. Swapped leads w Tash, then led all. Phenomenally close bolting. Lots of interspersed scrambles and some loose rock. Pitches become great as you go up. Rap comfortable w single 70m.
Sport 18 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 49
Hurly-Burly
Jul 7, 2018 · TR. Other party had a rope on it. Much easier after the first set of anchors.
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 65
Glob Job
Jul 7, 2018 · Lead / Onsight.
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 93
Some Drugs
Jul 4, 2018 · Lead / Onsight. W Alex.
Sport
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 38
Your Sister
Jul 4, 2018 · Lead.
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 49
Hurly-Burly
Jul 4, 2018 · Lead.
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 49
Hurly-Burly
Jul 4, 2018 · Lead / Onsight.
Sport
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 204
Prime Rib of Goat
Jul 1, 2018 · Lead / Onsight. Swapped w Andrew H. Fun, but some loose rock and some scramble pitches. Generous bolting; no need for gear. Headwall after scramble pitch requires creativity to rap w 60m rope.
Sport 11 pitches
Mod. Snow
 219
Ingraham Glacier-Disappointment Cleav…
Jun 24, 2018 · W Clay and Dave. Up at 0000, climbing by 0115, behind slow parties, summit 8:30, parking lot 1437.
Trad, Snow, Alpine
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 509
Commitment
Jun 10, 2018 · Lead / Onsight. W Clay. Led P2. Whole climb secure with good gear. P3 roof has beta in MP comments. Phenomenal climbing with great views. Would repeat. Each pitch felt soft for the grade.
Trad 3 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 232
Regular Route (Higher Cathedral Spire)
Jun 9, 2018 · 5 pitches. Lead / Onsight. W Clay, Led P1,3,5. Didn’t like gear on P3- broken. Got blind #1, then traversed high through notch above tree from jug in broken orange rock on R. Gear on P5 not great either. Spectacular summit. Std rt soft for the grade. Raps with a 60m barely.
Trad 4 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 451
Matthes Crest Traverse - South to North
Jun 7, 2018 · Lead. Simuled w Clay. Spectacular. 5.8 downclimbing full-value but protectable. Downsteps reachy. Gear minimal on Wave, but can anchor at end. 4 hrs to N summit and then another 4 for last 3rd. Descended before 3rd-to-last tower. Extra big cams for long simuls.
Trad, Alpine
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 265
West Country
Jun 6, 2018 · Lead / Onsight. W Clay, led P1,3. Cannot link 2-3. P2 slick, insecure, no good lieback edge, few good finger locks- but low angle. P3 runout but not awful. Roped to the top after P4. Roped to 1st rap. Had to make rap anchors. 2x60m raps, then still somewhat 4th class.
Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 542
West Crack
Jun 5, 2018 · Lead. Led P1, P4 w Clay (who linked P2-3 with a 60m). Had previously done P1 w Josh Z, but then got rained off. We took the L ramp at top. P1 start hard but ok. P2 reachy. Wide bit took #4 but ?probably ok w/o larger (Clay led). Super fun. Descent 3rd + 2 raps
Trad 5 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 265
Apoplexy
May 28, 2018 · TR. Again. To make 28 combined pitches and one for good luck for Tash’s birthday. Upper sequence is harder if short- more fun!
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 265
Apoplexy
May 28, 2018 · Follow. Followed Clay w Tash. Would not lead because run-out start. Fun.
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 276
MF
May 28, 2018 · 1 pitch. Follow. Followed Clay w Tash. Also TR’d direct variation which seems bit to have good gear. Fun, hard. Would be nice to put a directional above the hard upper sequence.
Trad 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 449
Son of Easy O
May 28, 2018 · Follow. Followed Clay w Tash in 1 pitch. Would lead. Just bring gear that fits below piton. There is only one not-great hold on P2. This was my first 5.8 lead w Sam B. Super fun.
Trad 2 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 471
Frog's Head
May 28, 2018 · Follow. Followed Clay w Tash in one pitch with 70s for Tash’s birthday.
Trad 2 pitches
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 389
Something Interesting
May 28, 2018 · Lead. W Clay and Tash, clean. Linked both pitches. For crux, I got good L fingerlock while holding R jug, then feet up, then up R hand to insecure crack. Skip bad L hold above fingerlock.
Trad 2 pitches
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 683
Horseman
May 28, 2018 · 2 pitches. Lead. Led w Carlo in one pitch. Drag fine on doubles. Should have brought a #4 (or two). Great route!
Trad
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 236
Maria
May 28, 2018 · 2 pitches. Lead. W Carlo. Probably not first time. Gorgeous. Plenty of gear on traverse. Most gear quite good.
Trad 3 pitches
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
 384
Three Pines
May 27, 2018 · Lead. Led P1 and fun full-value overhung 5.6 crack variation on P3. Carlo’s first lead on P2. P1 a little run out for a first lead
Trad 3 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 104
Kor-Beck
May 6, 2018 · 3 pitches. Follow. W Athena, day 5 on. Behind a slow party, bailed when Ben, Gar, and Max rapped. P1-2 a little broken, some gear not good, but fun. P3 GORGEOUS. Nothing crazy hard P1-3, but sometimes feet not secure. Placed the #4, but don’t know if it was necessary.
Trad 6 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 637
Central Pillar of Frenzy
May 5, 2018 · Follow. W Athena. So fun and perfect. P1 hard, climbing a little insecure. P3 roof tricky but good gear, then there’s the offwidth. Good gear all the way as far as I can remember.
Trad 5 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
 194
Northeast Buttress
May 3, 2018 · Lead. Incredible route, but some of the gear on the early 5.9 pitches isn’t great. We led up the wrong right-trending ramp at first. Sustained. I led a little but ceded more to Athena for speed after our route-finding snafu.
Trad 11 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b A0
 551
East Buttress
May 3, 2018 · Lead. Led some with Athena. Face stuff that she led felt thin on gear. A 5.7 that I led was pretty broken with not-great gear. Gorgeous route, though.
Trad, Aid 11 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 48
Unknown (5.8?)
May 1, 2018 · Lead / Onsight. W Athena. Fine without gear, or could place a .3 right before the anchor. Adequately bolted. Fun mantles. Would repeat.
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 87
Suds
May 1, 2018 · Follow. W Athena. Fun. Would probably lead, although Athena thought gear a little tricky. Full 35m pitch.
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 213
Sherrie's Crack
May 1, 2018 · Lead / Fell/Hung. W Athena and Micaela. Hung lots. Was raining lightly. Slab feet on first part, hard and insecure. Hard bit takes .3, .4, then one .5. Could place lots of #1, .75, some #2 and a #3 up high. Upper crack super fun.
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 196
Nurdle
May 1, 2018 · 2 pitches. Lead. To P2 Knob Job. W Athena and Micaela. Awkward. Ok w or wo #4. P2 unremarkable, tricky flared crack into sloper move. Led P1 cleanly. Wouldn’t repeat.
Trad
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 254
Dennis
Apr 21, 2018 · 2 pitches. Lead. Led w Carlo. Linked both pitches w double 60s w/o much hassle. Did not place the #3. Fun!
Trad
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 125
Ribs
Apr 20, 2018 · Lead. Linked pitches w Carlo. Sons run-out on both pitches.
Trad 2 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 508
Shockley's Ceiling
Apr 20, 2018 · 1 pitch. Lead. Led from Strictly with Carlo.
Trad 3 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 357
Strictly From Nowhere
Apr 20, 2018 · Lead. Led w Carlo into Shockley’s. Fantastic linkup.
Trad 2 pitches
WI3+
 69
Multiplication Gully
Jan 17, 2018 · Follow. Followed Eugene, Rory, Alex, w/ Vlad, Carlo in 2 Ps. chimney tricky-wouldn't lead yet except fatP1.
Ice 3 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Flyboys Okanogan > Mazama > Goat Wall
 44
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport 18 pitches
Jul 14, 2018 · Lead / Onsight. Swapped leads w Tash, then led all. Phenomenally close bolting. Lots of interspersed scrambles and some loose rock. Pitches become great as you go up. Rap comfortable w single 70m.
Hurly-Burly Central-W Casca… > … > Exit 38: Decept… > Substation
 49
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Jul 7, 2018 · TR. Other party had a rope on it. Much easier after the first set of anchors.
Glob Job Central-W Casca… > … > Exit 38: Decept… > Substation
 65
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Jul 7, 2018 · Lead / Onsight.
Some Drugs Central-W Casca… > … > Exit 38: Decept… > We Did Rock
 93
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Jul 4, 2018 · Lead / Onsight. W Alex.
Your Sister Central-W Casca… > … > Exit 38: Decept… > We Did Rock
 38
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Jul 4, 2018 · Lead.
Hurly-Burly Central-W Casca… > … > Exit 38: Decept… > Substation
 49
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Jul 4, 2018 · Lead.
Hurly-Burly Central-W Casca… > … > Exit 38: Decept… > Substation
 49
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Jul 4, 2018 · Lead / Onsight.
Prime Rib of Goat Okanogan > Mazama > Goat Wall
 204
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Sport 11 pitches
Jul 1, 2018 · Lead / Onsight. Swapped w Andrew H. Fun, but some loose rock and some scramble pitches. Generous bolting; no need for gear. Headwall after scramble pitch requires creativity to rap w 60m rope.
Ingraham Glacier-Disappoint… Southwest Cascades > Mount Rainier
 219
Mod. Snow Trad, Snow, Alpine
Jun 24, 2018 · W Clay and Dave. Up at 0000, climbing by 0115, behind slow parties, summit 8:30, parking lot 1437.
Commitment Yosemite NP > … > Five Open Books > First Tier
 509
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 3 pitches
Jun 10, 2018 · Lead / Onsight. W Clay. Led P2. Whole climb secure with good gear. P3 roof has beta in MP comments. Phenomenal climbing with great views. Would repeat. Each pitch felt soft for the grade.
Regular Route (Higher Cathe… Yosemite NP > … > Cathedral Spire… > Higher Cathedral Spire
 232
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 4 pitches
Jun 9, 2018 · 5 pitches. Lead / Onsight. W Clay, Led P1,3,5. Didn’t like gear on P3- broken. Got blind #1, then traversed high through notch above tree from jug in broken orange rock on R. Gear on P5 not great either. Spectacular summit. Std rt soft for the grade. Raps with a 60m barely.
Matthes Crest Traverse - So… Yosemite NP > … > s. Cathedral Range > Matthes Crest
 451
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, Alpine
Jun 7, 2018 · Lead. Simuled w Clay. Spectacular. 5.8 downclimbing full-value but protectable. Downsteps reachy. Gear minimal on Wave, but can anchor at end. 4 hrs to N summit and then another 4 for last 3rd. Descended before 3rd-to-last tower. Extra big cams for long simuls.
West Country Yosemite NP > Tuolumne Meadows > e. Stately Pleasure Dome
 265
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
Jun 6, 2018 · Lead / Onsight. W Clay, led P1,3. Cannot link 2-3. P2 slick, insecure, no good lieback edge, few good finger locks- but low angle. P3 runout but not awful. Roped to the top after P4. Roped to 1st rap. Had to make rap anchors. 2x60m raps, then still somewhat 4th class.
West Crack Yosemite NP > … > n. D.A.F.F. Area > Daff Dome W Face
 542
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 5 pitches
Jun 5, 2018 · Lead. Led P1, P4 w Clay (who linked P2-3 with a 60m). Had previously done P1 w Josh Z, but then got rained off. We took the L ramp at top. P1 start hard but ok. P2 reachy. Wide bit took #4 but ?probably ok w/o larger (Clay led). Super fun. Descent 3rd + 2 raps
Apoplexy Gunks > Trapps > a1. The Uberfall - left
 265
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
May 28, 2018 · TR. Again. To make 28 combined pitches and one for good luck for Tash’s birthday. Upper sequence is harder if short- more fun!
Apoplexy Gunks > Trapps > a1. The Uberfall - left
 265
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
May 28, 2018 · Follow. Followed Clay w Tash. Would not lead because run-out start. Fun.
MF Gunks > Trapps > e. The Mac Wall (Some…
 276
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 2 pitches
May 28, 2018 · 1 pitch. Follow. Followed Clay w Tash. Also TR’d direct variation which seems bit to have good gear. Fun, hard. Would be nice to put a directional above the hard upper sequence.
Son of Easy O Gunks > Trapps > c. Frog's Head - the…
 449
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
May 28, 2018 · Follow. Followed Clay w Tash in 1 pitch. Would lead. Just bring gear that fits below piton. There is only one not-great hold on P2. This was my first 5.8 lead w Sam B. Super fun.
Frog's Head Gunks > Trapps > c. Frog's Head - the…
 471
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 2 pitches
May 28, 2018 · Follow. Followed Clay w Tash in one pitch with 70s for Tash’s birthday.
Something Interesting Gunks > Trapps > e. The Mac Wall (Some…
 389
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 2 pitches
May 28, 2018 · Lead. W Clay and Tash, clean. Linked both pitches. For crux, I got good L fingerlock while holding R jug, then feet up, then up R hand to insecure crack. Skip bad L hold above fingerlock.
Horseman Gunks > Trapps > a1. The Uberfall - left
 683
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad
May 28, 2018 · 2 pitches. Lead. Led w Carlo in one pitch. Drag fine on doubles. Should have brought a #4 (or two). Great route!
Maria Gunks > Trapps > c. Frog's Head - the…
 236
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 3 pitches
May 28, 2018 · 2 pitches. Lead. W Carlo. Probably not first time. Gorgeous. Plenty of gear on traverse. Most gear quite good.
Three Pines Gunks > Trapps > e. The Mac Wall (Some…
 384
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a Trad 3 pitches
May 27, 2018 · Lead. Led P1 and fun full-value overhung 5.6 crack variation on P3. Carlo’s first lead on P2. P1 a little run out for a first lead
Kor-Beck Yosemite NP > … > Cathedral Spire… > Middle Cathedral Rock
 104
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 6 pitches
May 6, 2018 · 3 pitches. Follow. W Athena, day 5 on. Behind a slow party, bailed when Ben, Gar, and Max rapped. P1-2 a little broken, some gear not good, but fun. P3 GORGEOUS. Nothing crazy hard P1-3, but sometimes feet not secure. Placed the #4, but don’t know if it was necessary.
Central Pillar of Frenzy Yosemite NP > … > Cathedral Spire… > Middle Cathedral Rock
 637
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 5 pitches
May 5, 2018 · Follow. W Athena. So fun and perfect. P1 hard, climbing a little insecure. P3 roof tricky but good gear, then there’s the offwidth. Good gear all the way as far as I can remember.
Northeast Buttress Yosemite NP > … > Cathedral Spire… > Higher Cathedral Rock
 194
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 Trad 11 pitches
May 3, 2018 · Lead. Incredible route, but some of the gear on the early 5.9 pitches isn’t great. We led up the wrong right-trending ramp at first. Sustained. I led a little but ceded more to Athena for speed after our route-finding snafu.
East Buttress Yosemite NP > … > Cathedral Spire… > Middle Cathedral Rock
 551
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b A0 Trad, Aid 11 pitches
May 3, 2018 · Lead. Led some with Athena. Face stuff that she led felt thin on gear. A 5.7 that I led was pretty broken with not-great gear. Gorgeous route, though.
Unknown (5.8?) Yosemite NP > … > 14 - Cascade Area > Pat and Jack Pinnacle
 48
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
May 1, 2018 · Lead / Onsight. W Athena. Fine without gear, or could place a .3 right before the anchor. Adequately bolted. Fun mantles. Would repeat.
Suds Yosemite NP > … > 14 - Cascade Area > Pat and Jack Pinnacle
 87
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
May 1, 2018 · Follow. W Athena. Fun. Would probably lead, although Athena thought gear a little tricky. Full 35m pitch.
Sherrie's Crack Yosemite NP > … > 14 - Cascade Area > Pat and Jack Pinnacle
 213
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
May 1, 2018 · Lead / Fell/Hung. W Athena and Micaela. Hung lots. Was raining lightly. Slab feet on first part, hard and insecure. Hard bit takes .3, .4, then one .5. Could place lots of #1, .75, some #2 and a #3 up high. Upper crack super fun.
Nurdle Yosemite NP > … > 14 - Cascade Area > Pat and Jack Pinnacle
 196
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
May 1, 2018 · 2 pitches. Lead. To P2 Knob Job. W Athena and Micaela. Awkward. Ok w or wo #4. P2 unremarkable, tricky flared crack into sloper move. Led P1 cleanly. Wouldn’t repeat.
Dennis Gunks > Trapps > b. Jackie and friends
 254
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad
Apr 21, 2018 · 2 pitches. Lead. Led w Carlo. Linked both pitches w double 60s w/o much hassle. Did not place the #3. Fun!
Ribs Gunks > Trapps > d. Strictly - Shockley's
 125
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad 2 pitches
Apr 20, 2018 · Lead. Linked pitches w Carlo. Sons run-out on both pitches.
Shockley's Ceiling Gunks > Trapps > d. Strictly - Shockley's
 508
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 3 pitches
Apr 20, 2018 · 1 pitch. Lead. Led from Strictly with Carlo.
Strictly From Nowhere Gunks > Trapps > d. Strictly - Shockley's
 357
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 2 pitches
Apr 20, 2018 · Lead. Led w Carlo into Shockley’s. Fantastic linkup.
Multiplication Gully Adirondacks > … > B: Climbs near… > Wilmington Notch - Hi…
 69
WI3+ Ice 3 pitches
Jan 17, 2018 · Follow. Followed Eugene, Rory, Alex, w/ Vlad, Carlo in 2 Ps. chimney tricky-wouldn't lead yet except fatP1.