| Route Name |
Location |
Star Rating |
Difficulty |
Date |
|
●
Numba One Sucka
|
Sucka Cave
> Main Cave
|
|
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Sport
|
|
Oct 1, 2024 · Lead / Fell/Hung. Forgot my shoes and gave it a go barefoot. Other than the heel hook at the lip everything felt pretty doable sans rubber. The crimpies felt good. Go 16
|
|
●
Spartacus
|
North-Central A…
> …
> E Side
> Roman Wall
|
|
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sport
|
|
Sep 24, 2024 · Lead / Onsight. Cool crux. Took some grunting. Top belayed Adam up for Maximus
|
|
●
Mine Mine Mine
|
North-Central A…
> …
> N Side
> N Forty Routes
|
|
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sport
|
|
Sep 24, 2024 · Lead / Flash. Great fun. Big move in the crux with a right heel/toe cam to left hand jug. Right kneebar makes chilling before moving up to the rail a bit easier.
|
|
●
Wizard and Glass
|
North-Central A…
> Sam's Throne &…
> Candy Mountain
|
|
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sport
|
|
Sep 23, 2024 · Slab is dumber than bouldering.
|
|
●
Stark Industries
|
North-Central A…
> Sam's Throne &…
> Candy Mountain
|
|
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sport
|
|
Sep 23, 2024 · Lead / Fell/Hung. Powerful start. Rest in the hole before the roof with hand jam in the left side. Big move to get the slot before the roof. Grab the crimp out left before big move to decent right hand. Go up left to good hold. I got my right foot high and bumped right hand to the good rail. Work up to the hole and put your whole arm in it with high right foot to rest.
|
|
●
Gracious Grant
|
North-Central A…
> Sam's Throne &…
> Candy Mountain
|
|
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sport
|
|
Sep 23, 2024 · Lead / Flash. Pumpy warmup. Good climb.
|
|
●
Elder Statesman
|
North-Central A…
> Sam's Throne &…
> Candy Mountain
|
|
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sport
|
|
Sep 23, 2024 · Lead / Fell/Hung. Slab is dumb. Really awkward move in the corner.
|
|
●
The Great Hog Farm Fire of '97
|
North-Central A…
> Sam's Throne &…
> Candy Mountain
|
|
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sport
|
|
Sep 23, 2024 · Lead / Flash. Great trad style climbing. The roof felt like it would be hard for a 5.9 leader.
|
|
●
Queen Bee
|
North-Central A…
> Sam's Throne &…
> Candy Mountain
|
|
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sport
|
|
Sep 23, 2024 · Lead / Flash. Interesting movement down low. Pull a slab move to gain the ledge, get a high right foot and pistol squat to bypass the second slab crux. Super fun RRG climbing to the end.
|
|
●
Wormhole
|
North-Central A…
> Sam's Throne &…
> Candy Mountain
|
|
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sport
|
|
Sep 22, 2024 · Lead / Flash. Great fun. Stem facing into the crack.
|
|
●
Little Sky
|
North-Central A…
> Sam's Throne &…
> Candy Mountain
|
|
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sport
|
|
Sep 22, 2024 · Lead / Flash. Bottom crux went easily, watching a couple others do it. Unclip the chain above it to reduce drag. Double heels out right to start the move through the roof. Reach as far left on the rail as you can while keeping your feet out right. Bring right hand over and cut feet. Campus to better holds and core up to get left heel hook on. Clip. Scoot scoot clip. Good left heel hook to rest before pulling on jugs to the anchor. Tickle the chains and victory whip!
|
|
●
Wheatward Bound
|
Obed & Clear Creek
> Lilly Bluff
|
|
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sport
|
|
Sep 15, 2024 · Lead. Bottom: grab the mini aret overhand with the left and get a left kneebar in from the highest pocket. Right hand up to corner.
Top: Right toe hook till left and right matched on good crimp. Left hand into left slot crimp, right heel hook on crimp, big cross to good slot. Work feet left and hands into pod. Cross right to left of pod, push off right foot in roof, left hand to crimp. Right heel hook in the pod.
|
|
●
Ticks Are For Kids
|
Obed & Clear Creek
> Lilly Bluff
|
|
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sport
|
|
Sep 14, 2024 · Lead / Flash. Very fun. Helps if you know how to hand jam. Started on the right, which were some fun moves
|
|
●
Osiris
|
Obed & Clear Creek
> Lilly Bluff
|
|
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sport
|
|
Sep 14, 2024 · Lead / Fell/Hung. Got through the crux by turning left hand into sidepull in pod and right hand goes high to the hard to see crimp. Big moves, good undercling. Got above the last roof and lost my balance standing up before I could clip and took a long whip! Bumbed I fell, but a fun ride
|
|
●
Gangsta
|
Obed & Clear Creek
> Lilly Bluff
|
|
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sport
|
|
Sep 14, 2024 · Lead / Fell/Hung. Skin hurt and was having trouble making my crimpies work. Stays hard till you're in the undercling.
|
|
●
Heresy
|
Obed & Clear Creek
> Lilly Bluff
|
|
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sport
|
|
Sep 14, 2024 · Lead / Redpoint. Didn't remember what I did on the low crux, but keep moving right on the slopers and get your feet up. Roof felt great.
|
|
●
Electric Chair
|
Obed & Clear Creek
> Lilly Bluff
|
46
|
|
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sport
|
|
Sep 14, 2024 · Lead / Redpoint. Way more crimpy than I wanted to warm up on. Felt harder than either of the 2 5.11s to the left.
|
|
●
Whipper Snapper
|
Obed & Clear Creek
> Lilly Bluff
|
|
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sport
|
|
Sep 14, 2024 · Lead / Redpoint. I was pumped at the end. Fun
|
|
●
Lounge Lizard
|
Obed & Clear Creek
> Lilly Bluff
|
|
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sport
|
|
Sep 14, 2024 · Lead / Redpoint. Amnesia flash...did not remember this one bit. Fun
|
|
●
Tin Monkeys
|
Rumney
> Orange Crush
|
|
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Sport
|
|
Sep 8, 2024 · Lead / Fell/Hung. Tried after sending Tin Man. --Beta--From kneebar rest, right hand at top of side pull, left hand inverted on bottom. Walk left foot through and get very high right foot and kneebar above right hand on corner. Right hand to baby-ball-sack bad sidepull. Left hand into good undercling, fingers in slot. Work kneebar so right hip is fully in the wall, get left foot high in corner, reach right hand all the way to good sloper rail below other bolt. Pinch something out left with left and move left foot to high foot out. Bump left hand to good pinch. Work feet left and kneebar. Clip.
After clipping transition bolt from left kneebar - get left foot into corner and right on high corner chip. Left hand crosses to 2-3 finger crimp. Shift weight out over the right foot and do shoulder move to get right hand on bottom flat-ish ledge. Reset feet and left hand into higher flat ledge. Work right and up till you can place good left kneebar and hands on far right of rail. Get left hand in corner hold, high left foot out and high right foot on lower rail. Cross far to ticked crimp in the crack, trust it, reset left foot and get left hand to horn. Get inverted right kneebar to rest. Big move up left, go to crimp, reset feet, big move 6" above roof out right. Move left while stemming feet to the left. Use good crimps and crack to fingerlock left hand and high right foot at crotch to stand up to high fist crack. Work up left using good kneebars to clip last bolt and chains.
|
|
●
Tin Man
|
Rumney
> Orange Crush
|
|
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Sport
|
|
Sep 8, 2024 · Lead / Fell/Hung. Surprise warmup send! This climb was made for my style.
--Beta--
From kneebar rest, right hand at top of side pull, left hand inverted on bottom. Walk left foot through and get very high right foot and kneebar above right hand on corner. Right hand to higher bad sidepull. Left hand into good undercling, fingers in slot. Work kneebar so right hip is fully in the wall, get left foot high in corner, reach right hand all the way to good sloper rail below other bolt. Pinch something out left with left and move left foot to high foot out. Bump left hand to good pinch. Clip. Work feet left and kneebar. Reach far left into undercling in corner and windmill right hand into high good hold.
|
|
●
Full Throttle
|
Rumney
> Triple Corners
> Triple Corners Center
|
|
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Sport
|
|
Sep 7, 2024 · Lead / Fell/Hung. I could see this being a fun route when the holds aren't sweating. Crazy how you can slide off of such frictiony holds.
--beta--
Needs to be colder. Go out right on the jugs and make your way left to start squeezing. Get right foot up to jug and kneebar. Pull in on kneebar and bump right hand up high. Bump left hand to top of left sidepull. Step left foot through to right and get right heel hook that turns into heel-toe cam. Bump right hand up again. Left hand to highest sidepull. Paste right foot on face and put left foot on chalked ball. Stand up left hand to highest left corner. Match right up near. Get left foot a bit higher and bump right hand to good hold. Heel hook right, pinch aret with left hand, get hips higher then bump left hand to top of rail. Match right hand and bump left hand deep around left corner to sidepull undercling. Right hand goes to big hold under roof. Left hand pinch the roof edge, get left foot super high on corner and stand up till left can grab good corner far left. Stand up to jug under anchor.
|
|
●
Technical Second
|
Rumney
> Triple Corners
> Triple Corners Right
|
|
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sport
|
|
Sep 7, 2024 · Lead / Flash. Far harder than Waimea. Very awkward in the roof with insecure feet and bad holds. Went right on the flash, but would recommend grabbing the left aret and going big to the only good hold in the roof section a few feet above the roof.
|
|
●
Flying Hawaiian
|
Rumney
> Waimea
|
|
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sport
|
|
Sep 7, 2024 · Lead / Fell/Hung. Not my climb. Hated the beginning. Hated the stemming section that needs another bolt. Hated the last awkward pull to gain the top-out.
|
|
●
Waimea
|
Rumney
> Waimea
|
|
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sport
|
|
Sep 7, 2024 · Lead / Flash. Fantastic technical and interesting pitch. Felt easier than Technical Second.
|
|
●
Tin Man
|
Rumney
> Orange Crush
|
|
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Sport
|
|
Sep 6, 2024 · Lead / Fell/Hung. Figured out kneebar beta for the crux. Ramp went much easier.
|
|
●
Tin Man
|
Rumney
> Orange Crush
|
|
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Sport
|
|
Sep 5, 2024 · Lead / Fell/Hung. Didn't figure out the crux, but sussed out the ramp beta.
|
|
●
Orangahang
|
Rumney
> Orange Crush
|
|
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sport
|
|
Sep 5, 2024 · Lead / Fell/Hung. Warmed up on it. Felt great! Forgot how to do the crux after not being on it for 3 years and fell, but figured out cool beta using a far right foot on the roof and crossing right hand to the jug. I found clipping that bolt hard and again had to get a foot far right on roof to clip, but this made reaching high above the roof easy for the next move.
|
|
●
Horned Behavior
|
Rumney
> Prudential
|
|
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Sport
|
|
Sep 2, 2024 · Lead / Fell/Hung. Very cool bottom section. Reach high right into corner and stretch up to left corner. Place right foot in corner seam and bump right to good sloper. Work feet higher with right drop knee and left to good foot. Cross right to good Gaston/sidepull and clip. Cross left high onto rail, get right to tiny crimp on right face and move feet right. Kneebar right, bump left up left rail and bump kneebar higher till you can reach good sidepull. Reach left high into scoop and right on slowly crimp. Get right foot super high way right and bump right to good horn. Left kneebar before ledge. Couldn't figure out the big move before the anchors.
|
|
●
Stoned Temple Pilot
|
Rumney
> Prudential
|
|
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sport
|
|
Sep 2, 2024 · 2 pitches. Lead / Redpoint. Took a go to try and make sense of last year's beta. Walked up it 2nd go.
|
|
●
Finland
|
Rumney
> Prudential
|
|
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sport
|
|
Sep 2, 2024 · Lead / Redpoint. Knowing you have to commit to the underclings makes it easier. Hand jam up right after the hole makes getting left foot and left hand up easier.
|
|
●
The Yellow Wall
|
Gunks
> Trapps
> j. The Yellow Wall &…
|
|
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Trad 2 pitches
|
|
Aug 31, 2024 · Lead / Fell/Hung. Have to agree with the guy who didn't understand the stars given to this climb. Awkward and scary slab moves that wander all over the wall. Glad there a new shiny bolt below the crux... The one before that's so far out of line with the climb is scarily rusty. Note to future self; you never need to do this again.
|
|
●
Supper's Ready
|
Gunks
> Trapps
> h. The Arrow Wall - CCK
|
|
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Trad
|
|
Aug 31, 2024 · Lead / Redpoint. Had to come back and get the Red point! Was pumping out trying to place and clip the #1 after the last roof, and my partner yelled "f&@k the clip!" I managed to stay on the crimps and get my composure before finishing it up. Glad I was able to get the RP before the end of my trip
|
|
●
Star Action
|
Gunks
> Trapps
> e. The Mac Wall (Some…
|
|
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Trad 2 pitches
|
|
Aug 30, 2024 · Lead / Fell/Hung. Move over the roof was hard, didn't find the crimp up and right until I fell. Stepping left let out a power blaat!
|
|
●
Try Again
|
Gunks
> Trapps
> e. The Mac Wall (Some…
|
|
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Trad
|
|
Aug 30, 2024 · 2 pitches. Lead / Redpoint. Took two tries. I messed up the crux sequence. Would be a hard onsight not knowing the good crimp up right was there.
|
|
●
Supper's Ready
|
Gunks
> Trapps
> h. The Arrow Wall - CCK
|
|
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Trad
|
|
Aug 29, 2024 · Lead / Pinkpoint. Genevive got the warmup RP. I got the pink point and the joy of getting to clean.
beta
◦keep feet high for traverse to rest before crux. bit of a left kneebar to rest
At Crux-. right hand to crimp, L to side pull tooth. High left foot into kneebar. Right hand to high gaston. Right foot comes up to press high. Bring left hand to sidepull. Get right foot high further right and make big move to ledge. .3 in pod.
◦ High left foot smear and launch to next big ledge with left hand. #3 on ledge to the left.
◦ L heel on ledge. L hand up to ticked side pull, push with right foot to get to rest jug. 0 z4 or purple C3 right of the stuck nut slotted left of crimp. Kneebar left horizontal into rest jug.
◦ L heel match on rest jug. L hand to crimp slot. Middle finger fits the most. Right hand bumps to crimp in dihedral then nubbin on right corner. Find good right foot smear and bump right hand way up high to chalked slot.
◦ Place .4 in slot. High right foot and crank up right hand to big ledge.
◦ .75 above Bush in pod. ,#1 high above 2nd bush, red nut, grey nut, #2 in under cling. .5 in crux rest. .3 above first roof, #3, 0 next to fixed nut, .4 above roof. #1 & .75 in horizontals on last face.
|
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