| Route Name |
Location |
Star Rating |
Difficulty |
Date |
|
●
No Whippin Boys
|
Red Wing (a.k.a…
> New Vice Area
|
|
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Trad
|
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Apr 13, 2024 · TR. Fun route. Tr after prairie fire. Lead it next time! Seems like it would take good nuts. Seems like an ok stemming rest to place from with the bolt at your feet.
|
|
●
Foreign Affairs
|
Red Wing (a.k.a…
> Winter Wall
|
|
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sport
|
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Apr 13, 2024 · Lead / Onsight. Really good!! Stay low at second bolt to get to ledge to the left below 3rd
|
|
●
Tummy Kittens in Space
|
Red Wing (a.k.a…
> Large Roof Area
|
|
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sport
|
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Apr 12, 2024 · Lead / Onsight. Nice grippy rock. Rare at the grade for
Redwing. Slightly heady climbing. Wouldn’t do it it 5.9 was my limit but that’s probably most of the moderates at the bluff
|
|
●
Piranha
|
Red Wing (a.k.a…
> Cyclops Area
|
|
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sport
|
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Apr 12, 2024 · Lead / Pinkpoint. Sent!
|
|
●
Piranha
|
Red Wing (a.k.a…
> Cyclops Area
|
|
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sport
|
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Apr 12, 2024 · Lead / Fell/Hung. Right hand on top right side of the y might be better as a right hand Gaston.
Left toe in pocket find stable right foot and right to do two finger undercling on left under 3rd bolt. Crimp high with small hidden crimp. It’s bad so u need to stay close to the wall and need to static it.
|
|
●
Rawlpindi
|
Southern Nevada
> …
> (10) Pine Creek…
> Brass Wall
|
|
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Trad 5 pitches
|
|
Apr 2, 2024 · 2 pitches. Lead / Onsight. First two pitches. Need a fair bit of rope drag management. Some questionable rock.
After of pitch 2 down lead to the pitch 2 birdland anchors to rap.
|
|
●
Patient Zero
|
Southern Nevada
> La Madre Range
> Lake Mead Buttress
|
|
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Sport 8 pitches
|
|
Apr 2, 2024 · Lead / Onsight. Lead 3 6 and 8. Zach linked 1-2 and 4-5. Route took 2 hours and 20 mins. Approach is about an hour to the base.
Pitch 3 is spicy traversing around the corner. Definite rope cutting potential if u fall before clipping the bolt.
Still lots of loose rocks so be careful what you pull on.
Rap line is really fuzzy and has gotten a lot worse in the last few days! Guessing a static line would hold up a lot better. It’s getting to the point where I’d consider using your own to rap.
|
|
●
Contagion
|
Southern Nevada
> La Madre Range
> Lake Mead Buttress
|
|
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Sport 6 pitches
|
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Mar 31, 2024 · Lead / Onsight. 10 b variation. Lead odd pitches. First pitch felt slightly heady up top but could have just been the cold that day. 3 alpine draws felt perfect route was straight enough that I didn’t feel the need for more.
|
|
●
Yaak Crack
|
Southern Nevada
> …
> (04) Second Pul…
> Gallery
|
|
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sport
|
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Mar 30, 2024 · Lead / Fell/Hung. Red point crux at the top.
Right hand up then left up and left. Key hold is high and right then high left hand jam. Can clip off of that.
|
|
●
Yin and Yang
|
Southern Nevada
> …
1
> Kraft Mtn Area
> Yin & Yang Cliff
|
|
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Trad
|
|
Mar 27, 2024 · Lead / Fell/Hung. Beta
Two decent holds at crux. Right hand to first pod and left hand in crack. Bump right hand to second pod and left hand in lower pod. Do a pull up a d get left foot on ledge where the crack transitions from horizontal.
Place a #1 off that stance. Look for ripples for feet.
Where the crack curves up and becomes splitter it’s all #1.
Bomber .4 in the horizontal up top and a .1 above that in the vertical or place an awkward nut.
Shake out up top before topping out. Left hand on horn thingy and reach right hand way up high to sloper jug out of sight. Shake out, right foot high and right to top out.
|
|
●
Armatron
|
Southern Nevada
> …
> (11) Juniper Ca…
> Brownstone Wall
|
|
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Trad 6 pitches
|
|
Mar 23, 2024 · Lead / Redpoint. Lead all the pitches.
|
|
●
Crude Behavior
|
Southern Nevada
> …
1
2
> Upper Level
> Upper Level - Left
|
213
|
|
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sport
|
|
Mar 21, 2024 · Lead / Onsight.
|
|
●
Great Red Book
|
Southern Nevada
> …
> (04) Second Pul…
> Great Red Book Area
|
|
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trad 2 pitches
|
|
Mar 21, 2024 · Lead / Redpoint. Double rack to 2 and single 3 and 4. On pitch Save the 4 for near the end of the second pitch. Could also place an ok purple big bro. There’s a good left foot chip to place from. Some good tricam pockets on the runout section on pitch 2
Didn’t place any nuts even though I place them when I can see them.
Still being lots of runners to extend gear for the corners to keep the rope from getting stuck in the crack.
|
|
●
Caustic Cock
|
Southern Nevada
> …
> (01) Calico Basin
> Cannibal Crag
|
|
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sport
|
|
Mar 19, 2024 · Lead / Fell/Hung. Beta. Crux starts above second bolt. Grab left and right side pulles and work hands up as high as possible on both. Left heel hook and pull hard with hamstring! Throw for sloper with left hand then bump left hand up and right a bit into blind good pocket. Then throw for right. Make clip and move right hand to best part of sidepull around the corner and midway up.
Heel hook with right at some point before big move to the rail or the knob on the right.
The first plate above the last bolt isn’t great but it’s secure above that.
Got the tr send on the next try after leading!
|
|
●
Spaghetti before Betty
|
Red Wing (a.k.a…
> New Vice Area
|
|
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Sport
|
|
Mar 11, 2024 · TR. TR on-site. Really dirty and needed some cleaning. Kind of fun. Maybe stick clip the second bolt due to dirty holds.
|
|
●
Living All Over Me
|
Red Wing (a.k.a…
> Winter Wall
|
|
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sport
|
|
Mar 11, 2024 · Lead / Pinkpoint. Sent!
|
|
●
Danger High Boltage
|
Red Wing (a.k.a…
> Annadonia Area
|
|
73
|
|
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Sport, TR
|
|
Mar 11, 2024 · Lead / Onsight. Kind polished insecure and dirty
|
|
●
Living All Over Me
|
Red Wing (a.k.a…
> Winter Wall
|
|
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sport
|
|
Mar 3, 2024 · Lead / Fell/Hung. One hang! Fell just below last bolt. Didn’t try hard enough.
Windy dry day. Wind helped a lot!
|
|
●
Piranha
|
Red Wing (a.k.a…
> Cyclops Area
|
|
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sport
|
|
Jan 30, 2024 · Lead / Fell/Hung. Crux a few moves off the ground.
Right hand on crimp 7 feet up and on the right. Try hard throw with left hand to bad hold on bottom of the Y thing then right hand just over it it a bad undercling. Throw with left hand to two finger undercling just below 3rd bolt. Right hand to hard to see crimp and bump forming. Get feet as high as u can before throwing for jug
Upper crux use arret on left side to clip
|
|
●
Mr. Fluffer's Wild Ride
|
N America
> …
1
2
> Las Estrellas C…
> Las Estrellas Main Wall
|
|
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sport
|
|
Jan 25, 2024 · Follow.
|
|
●
Space Boyz
|
N America
> …
1
> El Potrero Chico
> La Selva (Jungle Wall)
|
|
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sport 11 pitches
|
|
Jan 24, 2024 · Lead / Fell/Hung. Got “lost” on pitch 7. Should have gone right into the crack after the 4th bolt. Otherwise it’s a tough move a ways above the bolt.
|
|
●
Treasure of the Sierra Madre
|
N America
> …
1
> El Potrero Chico
> Mota Wall
|
|
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sport 7 pitches
|
|
Jan 23, 2024 · Lead / Onsight. Lots of crack clilbing. First pitch felt a bit heady since I went right into the crack at the finish. Might try straight up next time.
Used the stiffy draw mid route since the easiest m line went a bit right of the bolt line.
|
|
●
Estrellita
|
N America
> …
1
2
> Las Estrellas C…
> Las Estrellas Main Wall
|
|
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sport 12 pitches
|
|
Jan 22, 2024 · Lead / Onsight. Fun. Actually used a lot of offwith. Some arm bars and hand fist stacks. Found pitch one “Mr fluffers” to be the crux of the route.
|
|
●
Epinephrine
|
Southern Nevada
> …
> (16) Black Velv…
> Black Velvet Wall
|
|
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Trad 13 pitches
|
|
Nov 29, 2023 · Lead / Fell/Hung. One hang at crux chimney. Lead pitches 1,2 6,7, 10 and 11. Pitch 1 had more spice than expected! Same with the pitch above the elephant trunk. Used a 5 on many pitches and would bring again. Lots of scrambling on the descent. Bring good approach shoes.
|
|
●
Frogland
|
Southern Nevada
> …
1
> Whiskey Peak
> N Face
|
|
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trad 6 pitches
|
|
Nov 28, 2023 · Lead / Redpoint. Lead even pitches. Pitch 4 traverse is a bit spicy. Staying low is the easiest way to go then a small green cam after the traverse.
Looks for plenty of places for ball nuts on this climb.
Pitch 5 was a bit run out going to the bolt. Place pro where u can leading up to it. Could sling a chicken head most likely
|
|
●
Baseboy (Bolted Variation)
|
Southern Nevada
> …
> (01) Calico Basin
> Cannibal Crag
|
|
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
Sport
|
|
Nov 25, 2023 · Lead / Fell/Hung. Second crux at second to last bolt. There’s a good rest jug there to shake out on. Have to make a big move to next good hold. Work feet up as high as u can before going for it.
|
|
●
Y2K
|
Southern Nevada
> …
1
> Mescalito
> E Face
|
|
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Trad 4 pitches
|
|
Nov 24, 2023 · Lead / Flash. Surprise crux getting to the anchors on pitch 1! A 12 cm draw on the crux bolt kind of loaded on the edge. Maybe bring a single 17 cm or 22 cm draw.
|
|
●
Armatron
|
Southern Nevada
> …
> (11) Juniper Ca…
> Brownstone Wall
|
|
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Trad 6 pitches
|
|
Nov 24, 2023 · Lead / Redpoint. Lead even pitches this time! Double cams in .2-.5 or maybe .75 are useful. Singles of everything else. Brought a metolius 2.75 side cam (big purple) and placed it a few times. 12 single legnth alpines and 2 doubles plus 3 QuickDraws should sew it up!
|
|
●
Lotta Balls
|
Southern Nevada
> …
> (14) First Cree…
> Lotta Balls Wall
|
|
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trad 3 pitches
|
|
Nov 22, 2023 · Lead / Onsight. Lead pitch 2. Mega fun!!
Wasn’t quite able to get to the top with a 70 from the pitch 2 anchor but a micro traction and a small bit of simul would be the way to go!
|
|
●
All that, Jazz
|
Southern Nevada
> …
1
> Guardian Angel…
> Black Wall (aka Happy…
|
|
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trad, Sport, TR 3 pitches
|
|
Nov 15, 2023 · Lead / Onsight. Lead pitch 2. Some good chicken heads to sling on that and the third one.
Rapped with a single 70 although it looks like the walk off is pretty easy too
|
|
●
Poodles are People Too
|
Joshua Tree NP
> …
1
> Hemingway Buttress
> Hemingway Buttress (E…
|
|
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Trad
|
|
Nov 12, 2023 · TR. A bit heady on the start. Offsets would be nice. Bring lots of small cams and totems. Nice thing is it’s easy to bail to the left to white lightning if need be.
|
|
●
White Lightning
|
Joshua Tree NP
> …
1
> Hemingway Buttress
> Hemingway Buttress (E…
|
|
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Trad
|
|
Nov 12, 2023 · Lead / Onsight. Doubles to 3. Single 4 was useful.
Singles of the really small stuff. Maybe a 3rd in .75-2. Single 70 was good for the anchors to the right
|
|
●
Damper
|
Joshua Tree NP
> …
1
> Chimney Rock
> Chimney Rock - W Face
|
|
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Trad
|
|
Nov 11, 2023 · Follow. Tricky walkoff. Ended up doing a needles style rapel with a single 70
|
|
●
Pinched Rib
|
Joshua Tree NP
> …
1
> Chimney Rock
> Chimney Rock - W Face
|
|
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Trad
|
|
Nov 11, 2023 · Lead / Fell/Hung. Tricky walkoff. Ended up doing a needles style rapel with a single 70
|
|
●
Toe Jam
|
Joshua Tree NP
> …
1
> Old Woman
> Old Woman - E Face
|
|
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Trad
|
|
Nov 11, 2023 · Lead / Onsight. Super fun!
|
|
●
Sexy Grandma
|
Joshua Tree NP
> …
1
> Old Woman
> Old Woman - W Face
|
|
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sport
|
|
Nov 10, 2023 · Lead / Fell/Hung. Tricky bit by the first bolt. Grabbed the draw for the move. Better beta on that part is blue totem up high and butterfly jam one move up till u can grab the jug up and left then step around the right.
Placed the blue totem and one blue #3 c4 up high extended with an alpine draw. Top is super easy but run out.
|
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