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Jan 5, 2012
Last Visit: 2 hours ago
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Point Rank: #909 DetailsDrop down

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Comments View All 96

Oct 21, 2023
A fall clipping the 4th bolt would be bad, but the lower sequence doesn't have a ton of options and leads y… View Comment
Sep 27, 2023
Today the remaining rusty machine screws were replaced with half inch stainless bolts courtesy of WARP and… View Comment
Sep 27, 2023
All non stainless bolts were replaced today thanks to a grant from WARP and ASCA. The anchors are stainless… View Comment
Jun 6, 2023
In June it stayed in the shade until about 10:15am and was unbearably hot by 11am. Back in the shade aroun… View Comment
Jun 4, 2023
In June it falls into the shade about 5pm, and the rock can stay cool if there's a bit of a breeze. Howeve… View Comment
May 28, 2023
After you top out and start lowering, clip a directional quickdraw out left on Time for the Butter Knife fo… View Comment

Forum Messages View All 220

Gear > Climbing Gear Discussion
Reply: 2024 Rope Discussion
Apr 9, 2024 The 9.3 Tommy Caldwell rope (blue and purple) is a good rope if not a bit pricey. It's the best biweave in town which is nice on big rappels.  The 9.6 Tommy Caldwell, ligh… View Message
Gear > Climbing Gear Discussion
Reply: Grinding up old shoe rubber
Apr 9, 2024 What'd you use for the grinding? My use case is these little pinholes I get in the sole of my TC Pros when I jam too hard on finger cracks. View Message
Gear > Climbing Gear Discussion
Reply: Suggestions for softish downturned shoes that don'…
Apr 9, 2024 Fishy Boi wrote: I have found Tenaya shoes to be aggressive enough, yet comfortable. Tenaya Iati changed the way I think about aggressive shoe comfort. View Message
Gear > Climbing Gear Discussion
Grinding up old shoe rubber
Apr 9, 2024 Did I hear correctly that you can grind up the soles of dead shoes, mix it with barge cement, and do little patch jobs with it? Anyone try this or have the beta on how to do it? View Message
Gear > Climbing Gear Discussion
Reply: Best phone?
Apr 3, 2024 This is kind of out-there but I keep thinking the Unihertz Tank Mini is the best expedition phone. https://www.unihertz.com/products/tank-mini View Message
General > Injuries and Accidents
Reply: Finger Pain Without Injury? Help!
Mar 29, 2024 My knuckle pain seems to be 90% resolved, probably due to two changes.A) My warmup is much more finger focused. Instead of doing a lot of easy jug climbs, I work sub-maximal cr… View Message

Route Scores View All 230

5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 1
A Calendar Year (full)
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 3
Totally Remarkable
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 12
Chromatic Suspension
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 363
Groundwork
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 11
Fred
Sport 2 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 4
Time for the Butter Knife
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
A Calendar Year (full) Northwest Region > … > Calendar Butte > Hot Rock
Avg:  1
bmdhacks:
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
5.13a
Totally Remarkable Northwest Region > … > Calendar Butte > Hot Rock
Avg:  3
bmdhacks:
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
5.12b
Chromatic Suspension N America > … > Rogues Gallery > Capone Wall
Avg:  12
bmdhacks:
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Groundwork Central Utah > … > Right Fork > Minimum Crag
Avg:  363
bmdhacks:
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Fred Northwest Region > … > Calendar Butte > Nomad Buttress
Avg:  11
bmdhacks:
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport 2 pitches
5.10a
Time for the Butter Knife Northwest Region > … > Calendar Butte > Shadow Wall
Avg:  4
bmdhacks:
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
5.10c
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