topher donahue > Forum Messages

General > General Climbing Reply: Question regarding a climbing book Dec 10, 2020 jt newgard wrote: While we have experts here, I have a question (think the OP's post has been addressed so I'm comfortable migrating the discussion a bit)When I've jugged u… View Message
General > General Climbing Reply: Question regarding a climbing book Dec 10, 2020 Based on the feedback here, it was a mistake to use that hitch as shown in the book because it could be confused with a hitch with a different name and I'll remove it in the ne… View Message
General > General Climbing Reply: Question regarding a climbing book Dec 9, 2020 Just now seeing this as the author of the book in question - it's a Prusik hitch and labelled correctly, not a Kleimheist as speculated. When tied in thin webbing, a Prusik doe… View Message
General > General Climbing RIP Douglas Snively Jun 15, 2020 Just learned that Doug Snively died today. Nothing final yet but he was found along one of his favorite fishing spots in Estes Park. Probably a heart attack or something simila… View Message
Regional > Colorado Reply: Beginner Trad in Front Range May 9, 2020 "#3 The Illusion of Shiny Gear that is Industry Tested: Because climbing gear was made for rock climbing and tested for strength, we are led to believe that the gear… View Message
General > Trad Climbing Reply: Quickdraw are worthlessish right? Apr 28, 2020 Draws keep your rack cleaner - less slings to catch on cam triggers, etc.Single biners on bolts work ok but without the draw to absorb rope movement it is more likely to accide… View Message
General > General Climbing Reply: Money in surfing vs climbing Apr 26, 2020 View Message
General > General Climbing Clipping long and short Mar 29, 2020 With thousands of climbers unable to go to the gym and many climbing areas closed, I thought I'd share some strategic ways to be a better, safer climber and keep your mind in t… View Message
General > Sport Climbing Reply: What’s the softest 5.12a in the US? Feb 19, 2020 The softest grade in the world is in Indian Creek. Pick a climb graded for someone with a different hand size than you - in the right direction. Just don't get it backwards. If… View Message
General > Big Wall and Aid Climbing Reply: Recommendations Multi-pitch Trad climbing with ove… Feb 9, 2020 An often overlooked option that works really well in this day of climbing as a mainstream (crowded) sport is to start late on a climb most people, including you, could do in a… View Message
General > Ice Climbing Reply: Ice Climbing - Avalanche kit suggestions Jan 17, 2020 I'm not about to discourage anyone from carrying avi rescue gear, and I've seen some of the discussions about it, but my questions is this: has anyone heard of a situation when… View Message
General > Beginning Climbers Reply: Trad belay vs. Sport belay, single pitch Nov 15, 2019 I dedicated an entire chapter to belaying in my book, Advanced Rock Climbing. Several of the superstars I interviewed for the book commented on the importance of taking belayin… View Message
General > Beginning Climbers Reply: Cordalettes and rappel back ups Oct 9, 2019 In my book, Advanced Rock Climbing, I recommend using the same equipment you use for many other parts of the climbing process. The more you can multi-task with your gear the mo… View Message
General > Beginning Climbers Reply: Ascending up rappel ropes? Sep 13, 2019 I like the French Prusik - slides up the rope much easier than a regular prusik and works with a variety of webbing if you add a couple twists. This photo from my book, Advance… View Message
General > General Climbing Reply: party of 3 on multipitch Aug 30, 2019 You're probably burlier than I, but I find guide mode can be hard. After leading a long pumper pitch through wandery terrain with rope drag, with a belay anchor over the lip of… View Message
General > General Climbing Reply: party of 3 on multipitch Aug 30, 2019 Climbing with a team of 3 can be awesome, and doesn't necessarily slow things down at all if you know how to do it. The best is to have several techniques to work with dependin… View Message
General > Trad Climbing Reply: Onsight trad climbing - what do you do? Jul 29, 2019 "My best onsights were when I was training to free the Nose - practicing to relax even when I felt really tired in the face of extremely difficult moves."- Lynn Hill, Advanced… View Message
Regional > Colorado Reply: Outer Space whipper in Eldo yesterday Jun 12, 2019 In my book, Advanced Rock Climbing: Expert Skills and Techniques, I write that "The Overcam" is one of the 3 myths of camming units. Here's how I explain it:It’s scary to… View Message
Gear > Climbing Gear Discussion Reply: When replace soles? Mar 31, 2019 Your old shoes will work just fine#advancedrockclimbing View Message
Regional > Colorado Reply: MASSIVE ROCK MOVEMENT IN BLACK CANYON Jun 4, 2018 Regarding the speculation that it could be thermal expansion, freeze thaw or cyclical change: this is possible, but we've been working on the route since 2004 and have been on… View Message
Regional > Colorado MASSIVE ROCK MOVEMENT IN BLACK CANYON May 17, 2018 Was just working on a project that starts on a 65-meter OW that forms the opposite (left) edge of The Flakes route namesake flake. 3 weeks ago I left 5 big bros in there planni… View Message
General > Big Wall and Aid Climbing Reply: Chop the bolt ladder May 1, 2018 History would indicate that the assumption that it's aid climbers blowing out the crack is probably incorrect. The climb was a popular aid climb long before it was free climbed… View Message
Gear > Climbing Gear Discussion Reply: TR soloing - device instead of cinch Nov 1, 2017 I did some research on using progress capture devices to top rope solo when writing Advanced Rock Climbing: Expert Skills and Techniques. Petzl has some good recommendatio… View Message
General > General Climbing Reply: Throwing my banana... Oct 14, 2017 Yeah, You're all right. A banana peel does not carbon emissions equal. I'm just frustrated with living in a country with a government that denies well-tested science that… View Message
General > General Climbing Reply: Throwing my banana... Oct 11, 2017 If it's bad to release a banana peel into the wilderness, wouldn't it also make sense not to release carbon? Or is #vanlife and #roadtrip sacred somehow while #bananapeel… View Message
Gear > Climbing Gear Discussion Reply: Equalizing two pieces VS. clipping individually Aug 29, 2017 For me, it all depends on the the consequences of the pieces failing. The last in a long string of good pro with clean air? Clip 'em individually and charge. The only pro betwe… View Message
General > Trad Climbing Reply: Learning to trust pro Jul 24, 2017 Erik's advice to go aid climbing is really good. Just remember that a piece that holds body weight, even jumping on it, does not always translate into a piece that will hold a… View Message
Regional > Colorado Reply: Toprope solo routes - Boulder and Northern Front R… Jun 15, 2017 Your earlier ideas are good. You're on the right track. Pretty much anything can be TR soloed if you're ready to place your own anchors and know how to use directionals, etc. E… View Message
Regional > Colorado Reply: Toprope solo routes - Boulder and Northern Front R… Jun 15, 2017 Like was said on one of these solo TR threads before - It's ok to play with yourself, but it's best not to talk about your favorite spots to do it. Lots of spots. Best to… View Message
General > General Climbing Reply: Euro Death Knot, Flat Overhand, Barrel Knot evolution Dec 12, 2016 Please see my updated post explaining what I have learned about the best practices and limitations of the flat overhand knot: topherdonahue.com/blog/2016… My apolog… View Message
General > General Climbing Reply: Euro Death Knot, Flat Overhand, Barrel Knot evolution Dec 7, 2016 Ok, points taken. I'll find the data on the knot and repost. View Message
General > General Climbing Reply: Euro Death Knot, Flat Overhand, Barrel Knot evolution Dec 7, 2016 To be clear, this post and my blog addressing the issue is not intended to rehash the question of what knot is better, but to point out that the flat overhand for rappel use is… View Message
General > General Climbing Reply: Euro Death Knot, Flat Overhand, Barrel Knot evolution Dec 7, 2016 That's a bomber knot, but as was pointed out above, doesn't have a "flat" side, so is more likely to jam when pulling over edges. View Message
General > General Climbing Reply: Euro Death Knot, Flat Overhand, Barrel Knot evolution Dec 7, 2016 Nathanael, I don't have data for the knot, but it is being taught as a replacement for the flat overhand by the Association of Canadian Mountain Guides. View Message
General > General Climbing Euro Death Knot, Flat Overhand, Barrel Knot evolution Dec 7, 2016 UPDATE:In follow up to my earlier post, my research has revealed that I am, happily, wrong about the flat overhand. I made a mistake in my recent book, Advanced Rock Climbi… View Message
General > General Climbing Reply: Warning: Paris airport security isn't fuing around Oct 27, 2016 Charley Fowler used to have this hand made climbing gear carry on. It was a little cube shaped hand bag that he could wedge a full rack into including pins and ice screws. The… View Message**

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