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James Otey

29 years old · Male

Member Since
Mar 30, 2007
Last Visit: Apr 4, 2019
770 Points
Point Rank: #1,263 Details

Likes Trad, Sport
More Info
I'm a Rumney local and New Hampshire native. Livin' the dream...


Comments View All 109

May 28, 2017
After doing the first pitch of this today and lowering off, the dude on the second pitch on top of us knock… View Comment
Jun 28, 2016
This is an ideal first trad lead because you can get good gear every couple feet, the foot holds are solid,… View Comment
Apr 1, 2016
Doug totally nailed this picture- it shows the microsecond that the hold is stuck, with the hips still seem… View Comment
Sep 27, 2015
Pitch 6 is down to one pin that is rusted out to the point where it's flexing. There is marginal protection… View Comment
Nov 1, 2013
Indeed, I am highly ashamed to have promoted such reckless and unethical fixed-gear practices when I upload… View Comment
Nov 1, 2013
It was quite delightful to enjoy the use of a fully serviceable Waimea ladder during the month of October,… View Comment

Forum Messages View All 61

General > General Climbing
Split sizing marketplace (one foot bigger than the other)
Jul 29, 2018 I've climbed in Evolv shoes for the longest time- they are fantastic in that they offer split sizes for people with big differences in their shoe sizes.Bummer is, most other po… View Message
Gear > FOR SALE / FOR FREE / WANT TO BUY
WTB: Arcteryx Needle 45
Jun 1, 2017 This is a far cry, but my 12 year old Needle 45 size Tall got destroyed by rockfall last weekend. It was still going strong!I got a new pack, but it's just not the same. If you… View Message
Gear > Climbing Gear Reviews
Reply: CAMP Matik- a comprehensive review
Jun 26, 2016 Eric- I agree! It is possible to use the Grigri left handed. There isn't, however, a modern manufacturer indented system that encompasses that type of use. There are a lot of… View Message
Gear > Climbing Gear Reviews
Reply: CAMP Matik- a comprehensive review
Jun 12, 2016 I did check that thing out prior to writing this review actually. Looks totally sweet! One thing that the Matik excels at is force reduction throughout the system. The Revo app… View Message
Gear > Climbing Gear Reviews
Reply: CAMP Matik- a comprehensive review
Jun 10, 2016 For top-roping use with a 9.8- absolutely. The Matik was primarily designed for skinny ropes however, and I found that the Sterling Velocity 9.8 was on the thick side, and not… View Message
Gear > Climbing Gear Discussion
Reply: Are any of the new-school belay devices worth usin…
Jun 10, 2016 I've tested the OVO in this configuration with Mammut 7.5mm halfs, and although the ropes do become twisted as in the video, full blocking still occurs. View Message

Route Scores View All 224

5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 39
Meltdown
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 7
Bistec de Biceps
Sport
Spain > … > Valley Crags > L'Olla
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 42
Shagg It
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 74
Ginseng Route
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
 358
Moby Grape
Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 71
VMC Direct Direct
Trad, Alpine 9 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Meltdown Shagg Crag
Avg:  39
James:
5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
5.12d
Bistec de Biceps Spain > … > Valley Crags > L'Olla
Avg:  7
James:
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Shagg It Shagg Crag
Avg:  42
James:
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
5.12d
Ginseng Route Shagg Crag
Avg:  74
James:
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
5.12b
Moby Grape Cannon Cliff > 4. Moby Grape Area
Avg:  358
James:
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
VMC Direct Direct Cannon Cliff > 3. Big Wall
Avg:  71
James:
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad, Alpine 9 pitches
5.10+