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James Otey

35 years old · Male
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More About James Drop down
Member Since
Mar 30, 2007
Last Visit: Dec 16, 2023
785 Points
Point Rank: #1,677 DetailsDrop down
Likes Trad, Sport
More Info
I'm a Rumney local and New Hampshire native. Livin' the dream...

Comments View All 110

Jul 25, 2019
N America > … > Kootenays > W Kootenays > Kootenay Lake > Woodbury Bluffs
The Last Waltz 5.11c
● Super fun movement. Bottom 30 feet are loose, make sure your belayer is attentive. Went left at the roof, a… View Comment
May 28, 2017
Rumney > Orange Crush
Tropicana 5.11a
● After doing the first pitch of this today and lowering off, the dude on the second pitch on top of us knock… View Comment
Jun 28, 2016
Little Falls > Moss Island
Tumbleweed 5.6
● This is an ideal first trad lead because you can get good gear every couple feet, the foot holds are solid,… View Comment
Apr 1, 2016
Rumney > Waimea > Big Kahuna (5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b)
This photo shows the "gas pedal" (A term Jay Knower passed down to me) beta for the crux move. Right foot stepped through on the bump, left foot flagging. Doug Rosenberg photo
● Doug totally nailed this picture- it shows the microsecond that the hold is stuck, with the hips still seem… View Comment
Sep 27, 2015
Cannon Cliff > 3. Big Wall
VMC Direct Direct 5.10+
● Pitch 6 is down to one pin that is rusted out to the point where it's flexing. There is marginal protection… View Comment
Nov 1, 2013
Rumney > Waimea
Lily milking the rest before the starting moves of butt bongo fiesta
● Indeed, I am highly ashamed to have promoted such reckless and unethical fixed-gear practices when I upload… View Comment

Forum Messages View All 61

General > General Climbing
Split sizing marketplace (one foot bigger than the other)
Jul 29, 2018 I've climbed in Evolv shoes for the longest time- they are fantastic in that they offer split sizes for people with big differences in their shoe sizes.Bummer is, most other po… View Message
Gear > FOR SALE / FOR FREE / WANT TO BUY
WTB: Arcteryx Needle 45
Jun 1, 2017 This is a far cry, but my 12 year old Needle 45 size Tall got destroyed by rockfall last weekend. It was still going strong!I got a new pack, but it's just not the same. If you… View Message
Gear > Climbing Gear Reviews
Reply: CAMP Matik- a comprehensive review
Jun 26, 2016 Eric- I agree! It is possible to use the Grigri left handed. There isn't, however, a modern manufacturer indented system that encompasses that type of use. There are a lot o… View Message
Gear > Climbing Gear Reviews
Reply: CAMP Matik- a comprehensive review
Jun 12, 2016 I did check that thing out prior to writing this review actually. Looks totally sweet! One thing that the Matik excels at is force reduction throughout the system. The Revo app… View Message
Gear > Climbing Gear Reviews
Reply: CAMP Matik- a comprehensive review
Jun 10, 2016 For top-roping use with a 9.8- absolutely. The Matik was primarily designed for skinny ropes however, and I found that the Sterling Velocity 9.8 was on the thick side, and not… View Message
Gear > Climbing Gear Discussion
Reply: Are any of the new-school belay devices worth usin…
Jun 10, 2016 I've tested the OVO in this configuration with Mammut 7.5mm halfs, and although the ropes do become twisted as in the video, full blocking still occurs. View Message

Route Scores View All 230

5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 86
● Meltdown
Sport
-Shagg Crag
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 28
● Bistec de Biceps
Sport
Europe > … > Valley Crags > L'Olla
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 79
● Shagg It
Sport
-Shagg Crag
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 144
● Ginseng Route
Sport
-Shagg Crag
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
 555
● Moby Grape
Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
Cannon Cliff > 4. Moby Grape Area
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 96
● VMC Direct Direct
Trad, Alpine 9 pitches
Cannon Cliff > 3. Big Wall
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● Meltdown -Shagg Crag
Avg:  86
James:
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
5.12d
● Bistec de Biceps Europe > … > Valley Crags > L'Olla
Avg:  28
James:
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
● Shagg It -Shagg Crag
Avg:  79
James:
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
5.12d
● Ginseng Route -Shagg Crag
Avg:  144
James:
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
5.12b
● Moby Grape Cannon Cliff > 4. Moby Grape Area
Avg:  555
James:
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
● VMC Direct Direct Cannon Cliff > 3. Big Wall
Avg:  96
James:
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad, Alpine 9 pitches
5.10+
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