jt512 > Forum Messages

Nov 12, 2018 Barstow is the cheap motel capital of Route 66.  Drive into town and pick the motel the looks the least bad.  Decent Mexican food at Rositas.  After a couple of… View Message

Sep 28, 2013 What makes you think that a rope that comes in 600-foot spools is actually a climbing rope? View Message

Jul 28, 2012 Lower himself. Duh. View Message

Apr 28, 2012 On the other hand, if the leader had been carrying a GriGri, your buddy would probably be dead. ;) Jay View Message

Mar 15, 2012 He was 50ish, but he never looked his age. View Message

Mar 15, 2012 I'm sad to announce that Art Morimitsu, an Administrator here on MP for SoCal and long-time climber, died yesterday from cancer. Art was an avid sport and trad climber, and wi… View Message

Mar 8, 2012 +1 View Message

Mar 2, 2012 If you fall from from below the anchor, then added slack will increase the fall factor; but, if you fall from above the anchor, then added slack will decrease the fall factor.… View Message

Feb 28, 2012 Yes. Easily. Quickly, now: how many seconds in a decade? Jay View Message

Feb 17, 2012 Which proves that it is best to tie in with no knot. View Message

Jul 16, 2011 Are you serious? I swear, I always thought it was '69.' Must be some kind of selective Freudian dyslexia on my part. I didn't realize who you were on this site and that yo… View Message

Jul 14, 2011 I was not aware that Eldo has so many reported accidents, but I agree that, if it does, the simple Occam's Razor explanation would be the sheer number of climbers who climb the… View Message

Jul 13, 2011 You might consider posting your question on rockclimbing.com. There is a user there, "carabiner69," who has only one arm and climbs. Jay View Message

Jul 6, 2011 However, if, despite the odds, you can manage to "fire" the 5.7/8 "overhang" and grovel the last P3 "or whatever" to the summit, you are left with a confusing and poorly-descri… View Message

Jul 6, 2011 Care to describe the 3rd class approach to those anchors from the summit? I'd be grateful, as I've twice now only been able to find them via a one-mistake–big-pancake app… View Message

Jul 5, 2011 There is nothing easy about the descent from the summit of Wind Tower. It involves exposed 4th-class downclimbing to difficult-to-locate anchors for a rappel with a somewhat s… View Message

Jul 5, 2011 If they didn't, there'd be nothing in your posts worth reading. Jay View Message

Jul 5, 2011 If you have never caught a fall, then you can't be considered a competent belayer. There is basically no excuse for belaying without ever having caught a few practice falls.… View Message

Jul 3, 2011 If you climb with a partner who you're unsure can catch a fall then you must either be an idiot or fully confident that you can free solo the pitch, and you're obviously not th… View Message

Jul 3, 2011 Your math is right. Ty's, not so much. No matter what the initial fall factor, adding slack moves the fall factor closer to 1. Thus if the initial fall factor is less tha… View Message

Jul 2, 2011 Rgold made the calculation on rec.climbing some time ago. Using assumptions that will tend to overestimate the force, a pair of doubles clipped into the same piece will increas… View Message

Jul 2, 2011 View Message

Jul 2, 2011 Now it has to be fatal, personally witnessed, and "documented." Doesn't look like Yarp is going to be going away anytime soon. Jay View Message

Jul 2, 2011 First of all, Petzl has stated for as long as I can remember that ropes down to 9.7 mm are "acceptable" for the Grigri I, so a 9.8 is considered proper use by Petzl. Secondly,… View Message

Jul 2, 2011 Cute ploy raising the bar from grigri failure to "death because of a grigri failure," I've already posted that I've seen a no-hands grigri failure. The climber lived, so I… View Message

Jul 1, 2011 You can promise all you want. It's not true. The only moron in the thread so far is you. Jay View Message

Jul 1, 2011 You can use any set of doubles as twins. When doubles are clipped into the same piece, the impact force will be on the order of that of an ordinary single rope. What's ques… View Message

Jun 30, 2011 Yes, I've seen it happen with a grigri, and I've heard about it (from the victim) with a Faders Sum. These devices are not intended to be used hands free. Jay View Message

Jun 20, 2011 Suggested reading: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sarcasm View Message

Jun 20, 2011 Windows is the easiest OS because you can't actually do anything with it. What could be easier to use than an OS with no useful features. And you have to re-install it every… View Message

Jun 19, 2011 Well, I'd be much more regular about cleaning your rope, and for god sakes, keep a rope log. Jay View Message

Jun 9, 2011 You could take a lesson from those people. Jay View Message

Jun 8, 2011 Are you kidding? It's a family tradition. View Message

May 18, 2011 That's utterly ridiculous. Jay View Message

May 17, 2011 Why would you consider trusting your life to someone who climbs on slings that can't hold body weight. Jay View Message

May 14, 2011 As opposed to one spent throwing infants over chasms. Jay View Message