Braden Downey > Forum Messages

Gear > Lost and Found LOST rack in U-Notch Aug 20th Sep 8, 2021 Hi!I accidentally left a light rack on a sling below U-Notch in the Palisades (Doh!) I would be happy to reimburse you $100 for its return, a burger, some beer, and a hug. Hop… View Message
General > General Climbing Reply: Advice from Alpine Climbers Jun 9, 2020 The Traddest Dad wrote: As a physician I need to point out that Benadryl cannot stop the life-threatening complications of anaphylaxis. Only epinephrine (such as an autoin… View Message
Regional > Southern California Reply: Liquid Sky May 3, 2020 Long pitches, hanging belays, along with comittment factor, runouts, wind, rain, and snow - provide a more stimulating experience that makes a pitch especially memorable years… View Message
Regional > Southern California Reply: Tahquitz rescue today? Apr 24, 2020 Moderators - This thread is too cluttered with off topic commentary to be worth the hassle. A small number of people in our community are degrading MTP as a resource, and surfi… View Message
Gear > Climbing Gear Discussion Reply: Quark vs Nomic Aug 23, 2019 After climbing with the Nomics for years, I decided to buy some quarks to make hammering pins easier, excavating rotten ice to find good pro (with an adz) faster/easier, and sw… View Message
General > General Climbing Reply: How to keep mice out of your car Aug 8, 2019 This is important, so listen up: Your Carolla (10th generation) is one of many vehicles made with soy-based insulation or wiring, which rodents find irresistible. I have… View Message
General > Mountaineering Reply: Alpine Mountaineering and Technical Leadership, Pa… Jul 26, 2019 I don’t know what skills Kilimanjaro requires, but if you want a solid foundation of skills, knowledge and experience, so you can build your own metaphorical skyscraper o… View Message
Regional > Wyoming, Montana, Dakotas Reply: More Tensleep Drama Jul 5, 2019 I respectfully disagree from my home in Bellingham, WA. Recently in Squamish, someone chipped a hard boulder problem to enhance the crux hold. It was just one small hold though… View Message
General > Fixed Hardware: Bolts & Anchors Reply: hollowblocks vs tech-cord Jun 26, 2019 I saw it. I figured rather than hijacking the thread with a tangent, if made more sense to create a new post. View Message
General > Fixed Hardware: Bolts & Anchors hollowblocks vs tech-cord Jun 16, 2019 Before you drop 20 bucks on a hollowblock, consider the advantages of a tech-cord prussic: Fast, precision adjustability (when tied with an overhand with half-hitch backu… View Message
General > Trad Climbing Reply: Alpine climbing when you're not a morning person Apr 2, 2019 Tips for getting to sleep earlier:Buff over your eyes, ear plugs, and possibly melatoninBig lunch, small dinnerWake up early the day before and only 1 cup of coffee! Tips… View Message
Gear > Climbing Gear Discussion Reply: Headlamps for alpine climbing 2019 Mar 6, 2019 I've used countless princeton tech, black diamond, and Petzl healdlamps over the years, and now the Olight - the Olight H2r is the best lamp I've used so far. Prior to that, I… View Message
General > General Climbing Reply: Dear crag-music lovers, drone pilots, and videogra… Jan 26, 2019 I’ve gained some insight on demographics from reading everyone’s posts here: crag music advocates usually climb routes that require less $ and technical experi… View Message
General > General Climbing Reply: Dear crag-music lovers, drone pilots, and videogra… Jan 25, 2019 We should all call out and public condone drone footage, like this mediocre drone video of Ondra at the creek, posted by Rock and Ice: https://rockandice.com/videos/climb… View Message
General > General Climbing Reply: Dear crag-music lovers, drone pilots, and videogra… Jan 25, 2019 Regardless whether they are oblivious, inconsiderate, or just don't give a fk about other climbers, I'm certain we will see less of this behavior if it becomes a more talked… View Message**
General > General Climbing Dear crag-music lovers, drone pilots, and videographers: Jan 25, 2019 Dear music lovers, drone pilots and videographers:Music and buzzing drones at the crag are a distracting annoyance to other climbers who are trying to enter a focused, meditati… View Message
General > Training Forum Reply: How is everyone getting back into shape for the sp… Apr 7, 2018 After experimenting with concepts in Andersons's rock climbers training manual, and Training for the New Alpinism (a lot of the concepts overlap), this is baically what works b… View Message
Gear > Climbing Gear Discussion Reply: Ways to rid of climbing shoes odor Mar 26, 2018 I'm gonna say it again. You need to kill the bacteria. Use bleach. All other methods are a waste of time. Here's my routine.1. Fill shoes with hot, plain tap water. Scrub with… View Message
Gear > Climbing Gear Discussion Reply: Ways to rid of climbing shoes odor Mar 25, 2018 A bleach solution and stiff nylon brush or toilet bowl cleaner. Here's why: It's my understanding that bacteria is what makes your shoes smell. Well, actually it's the bac… View Message
General > Bouldering Reply: Helping my wife with technique Dec 9, 2016 Whatever you do, don't be the typical douchebag boyfriend/husband doing her cruxes in slow motion while explaining your technique and smoking a cigarette at the same time.… View Message
Gear > Climbing Gear Discussion Reply: New Bolts on the Nose, El Capitan: one 60m rope ra… Sep 8, 2016 .. both in terms of time and more importantly perspective View Message
Gear > Climbing Gear Discussion Reply: New Bolts on the Nose, El Capitan: one 60m rope ra… Sep 8, 2016 Whether or not what you are doing is right or wrong, the way you are blatantly disregarding so many concerned climbers, and are so obviously unfazed by our distress (woot woot!… View Message
Gear > Climbing Gear Discussion Reply: New Bolts on the Nose, El Capitan: one 60m rope ra… Sep 6, 2016 ... moreover, TNIAD in lightweight style (one rope) is going to be a less daunting proposition, therefore subtracting from the experience by lowering the commitment for future… View Message
Gear > Climbing Gear Discussion Reply: New Bolts on the Nose, El Capitan: one 60m rope ra… Sep 6, 2016 Sloan, Changing the rap route in this way is like doing an engine rebuild on a perfectly functioning engine; you are inviting more problems than you are solving. I underst… View Message
General > General Climbing Reply: Rate my multipitch belay setup Oct 28, 2015 that's way overbuilt. just throw the rope around your neck and belay on. ;D View Message
Gear > Climbing Gear Discussion Reply: What do you bring in case you epic on route? Aug 30, 2015 I like to tank up on 1-2L of water with about a teaspoon of Chia seeds/L in the AM before I start climbing. Chia seeds slow the absorption down so your prehydration doesn't pa… View Message
General > Big Wall and Aid Climbing Reply: What diameter ropes are people using on El Cap the… Jul 16, 2015 Any kind of practice - be it jugging, working a sport route or a practice run to Dolt -oughtta be done with an old fuzzy rope past it's prime. Save your NIAD rope for the big… View Message
General > General Climbing Reply: How do you store cams in a backpack while hiking t… May 14, 2015 THis is actually a very good question. If you strive to get by with the simplest, lightest, most nimble pack (which anyone who climbs in the mountains or off the deck will app… View Message
Gear > Climbing Gear Discussion Reply: Favorite Big Wall Sleeping Bag Apr 21, 2015 I'm in love with my Ultra Lamina 32 by Mountain Hardware. Packs up the size of a grapefruit and it's warm for a 32 IMO. It looks like MH just changed the design though which… View Message
Gear > Lost and Found Reply: Found: Locking Biner on Washington Column Apr 14, 2015 you're a way better person than I am View Message
General > General Climbing Reply: Dude soloing naked... Apr 2, 2015 haha! thanks. View Message
General > Trad Climbing Reply: Alpine draws used in sport okay for trad? Feb 3, 2015 A nick (or more likely dent) in the neck a carabiner from whipping on a bolt isn't going to make a measurable difference to your rope. If you aid climb a lot it might be… View Message
Regional > Colorado Reply: Mountaineering/Alpine Climbing: How to gain more e… Jan 26, 2015 I understand i'm kind of preaching now, but one more thing... People often progress rapidly onto big routes in the mountains their first couple years of alpine climbing. Th… View Message
Regional > Colorado Reply: Mountaineering/Alpine Climbing: How to gain more e… Jan 25, 2015 Also, buy these books: - alpine climbing - techniques to take you higher - will gaad's book on ice climbing there may be updated books, but those are what my bibles were.… View Message
Regional > Colorado Reply: Mountaineering/Alpine Climbing: How to gain more e… Jan 25, 2015 THis may be more specific than you were looking for, but I promise you will get DIALED fast with minimal amount of money and dangerous hard-knocks involved. I recommend achiev… View Message
General > Trad Climbing Reply: Belay system for trad/multi-pitch? Dec 3, 2014 I agree with RDW and have a few points to add: - Don't lower your partner unless there's agood reasons to lower: your partner is unreliable (head injury, broken hand, et… View Message

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Braden Downey > Forum Messages

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