Mountain Project Logo
General > Trad Climbing
Reply: Alpine climbing when you're not a morning person
Apr 2, 2019 Tips for getting to sleep earlier:Buff over your eyes, ear plugs, and possibly melatoninBig lunch, small dinnerWake up early the day before and only 1 cup of coffee! Tips… View Message
Gear > Climbing Gear Discussion
Reply: Headlamps for alpine climbing 2019
Mar 6, 2019 I've used countless princeton tech, black diamond, and Petzl healdlamps over the years, and now the Olight - the Olight H2r is the best lamp I've used so far. Prior to that, I… View Message
Partners > Pacific Northwest Partners
Reply: PNW ice/mixed/alpine 2019
Jan 26, 2019 Seeking partners who can share the sharp end on relatively big, technical routes in the greater ranges, Pac NW, and Canadian Rockies. I'm not opposed to climbing in a 3-person… View Message
General > General Climbing
Reply: Dear crag-music lovers, drone pilots, and videogra…
Jan 26, 2019 I’ve gained some insight on demographics from reading everyone’s posts here: crag music advocates usually climb routes that require less $ and technical experi… View Message
General > General Climbing
Reply: Dear crag-music lovers, drone pilots, and videogra…
Jan 25, 2019 We should all call out and public condone drone footage, like this mediocre drone video of Ondra at the creek, posted by Rock and Ice:  https://rockandice.com/videos/climb… View Message
General > General Climbing
Reply: Dear crag-music lovers, drone pilots, and videogra…
Jan 25, 2019 Regardless whether they are oblivious, inconsiderate, or just don't give a f**k about other climbers, I'm certain we will see less of this behavior if it becomes a more talked… View Message
General > General Climbing
Dear crag-music lovers, drone pilots, and videographers:
Jan 25, 2019 Dear music lovers, drone pilots and videographers:Music and buzzing drones at the crag are a distracting annoyance to other climbers who are trying to enter a focused, meditati… View Message
General > Training Forum
Reply: How is everyone getting back into shape for the sp…
Apr 7, 2018 After experimenting with concepts in Andersons's rock climbers training manual, and Training for the New Alpinism (a lot of the concepts overlap), this is baically what works b… View Message
Gear > Climbing Gear Discussion
Reply: Ways to rid of climbing shoes odor
Mar 26, 2018 I'm gonna say it again. You need to kill the bacteria. Use bleach. All other methods are a waste of time. Here's my routine.1. Fill shoes with hot, plain tap water. Scrub with… View Message
Gear > Climbing Gear Discussion
Reply: Ways to rid of climbing shoes odor
Mar 25, 2018 A bleach solution and stiff nylon brush or toilet bowl cleaner. Here's why: It's my understanding that bacteria is what makes your shoes smell. Well, actually it's the bac… View Message
Gear > Climbing Gear Discussion
Reply: AWD or 4x4 van?
Jan 5, 2017 one super important last bit of advice: only put OEM parts (parts manufactured by the your vehicles make, ex: ford parts, toyota parts, etc) unless you research the quality of… View Message
Gear > Climbing Gear Discussion
Reply: AWD or 4x4 van?
Jan 5, 2017 I'd like to revise my previous recommendation for learning how to make simple repairs - You are wise not work on your car yourself! Having that said, Every vehicle will die eve… View Message
Gear > Climbing Gear Discussion
Reply: AWD or 4x4 van?
Jan 4, 2017 General car-buying advice: 1. i know you're not a mechanic but 3 hours of time spent researchning the engine and transmission reputation for the vehicle you want to purchase… View Message
General > Bouldering
Reply: Helping my wife with technique
Dec 9, 2016 Whatever you do, don't be the typical douchebag boyfriend/husband doing her cruxes in slow motion while explaining your technique and smoking a cigarette at the same time. I… View Message
Gear > Climbing Gear Discussion
Reply: New Bolts on the Nose, El Capitan: one 60m rope ra…
Sep 8, 2016 .. both in terms of time and more importantly perspective View Message
Gear > Climbing Gear Discussion
Reply: New Bolts on the Nose, El Capitan: one 60m rope ra…
Sep 8, 2016 Whether or not what you are doing is right or wrong, the way you are blatantly disregarding so many concerned climbers, and are so obviously unfazed by our distress (woot woot!… View Message
Gear > Climbing Gear Discussion
Reply: New Bolts on the Nose, El Capitan: one 60m rope ra…
Sep 6, 2016 ... moreover, TNIAD in lightweight style (one rope) is going to be a less daunting proposition, therefore subtracting from the experience by lowering the commitment for future… View Message
Gear > Climbing Gear Discussion
Reply: New Bolts on the Nose, El Capitan: one 60m rope ra…
Sep 6, 2016 Sloan, Changing the rap route in this way is like doing an engine rebuild on a perfectly functioning engine; you are inviting more problems than you are solving. I understan… View Message
General > General Climbing
Reply: Rate my multipitch belay setup
Oct 28, 2015 that's way overbuilt. just throw the rope around your neck and belay on. ;D View Message
Gear > Climbing Gear Discussion
Reply: What do you bring in case you epic on route?
Aug 30, 2015 I like to tank up on 1-2L of water with about a teaspoon of Chia seeds/L in the AM before I start climbing. Chia seeds slow the absorption down so your prehydration doesn't pa… View Message
General > Big Wall and Aid Climbing
Reply: What diameter ropes are people using on El Cap the…
Jul 16, 2015 Any kind of practice - be it jugging, working a sport route or a practice run to Dolt -oughtta be done with an old fuzzy rope past it's prime. Save your NIAD rope for the big… View Message
General > General Climbing
Reply: How do you store cams in a backpack while hiking t…
May 14, 2015 THis is actually a very good question. If you strive to get by with the simplest, lightest, most nimble pack (which anyone who climbs in the mountains or off the deck will app… View Message
Gear > Climbing Gear Discussion
Reply: Favorite Big Wall Sleeping Bag
Apr 21, 2015 I'm in love with my Ultra Lamina 32 by Mountain Hardware. Packs up the size of a grapefruit and it's warm for a 32 IMO. It looks like MH just changed the design though which… View Message
Gear > Lost and Found
Reply: Found: Locking Biner on Washington Column
Apr 14, 2015 you're a way better person than I am View Message
General > General Climbing
Reply: Dude soloing naked...
Apr 2, 2015 haha! thanks. View Message
General > Trad Climbing
Reply: Alpine draws used in sport okay for trad?
Feb 3, 2015 A nick (or more likely dent) in the neck a carabiner from whipping on a bolt isn't going to make a measurable difference to your rope. If you aid climb a lot it might be a… View Message
Regional > Colorado
Reply: Mountaineering/Alpine Climbing: How to gain more e…
Jan 26, 2015 I understand i'm kind of preaching now, but one more thing... People often progress rapidly onto big routes in the mountains their first couple years of alpine climbing. This… View Message
Regional > Colorado
Reply: Mountaineering/Alpine Climbing: How to gain more e…
Jan 25, 2015 Also, buy these books: - alpine climbing - techniques to take you higher - will gaad's book on ice climbing there may be updated books, but those are what my bibles were.… View Message
Regional > Colorado
Reply: Mountaineering/Alpine Climbing: How to gain more e…
Jan 25, 2015 THis may be more specific than you were looking for, but I promise you will get DIALED fast with minimal amount of money and dangerous hard-knocks involved. I recommend achiev… View Message
General > Trad Climbing
Reply: Belay system for trad/multi-pitch?
Dec 3, 2014 I agree with RDW and have a few points to add: - Don't lower your partner unless there's agood reasons to lower: your partner is unreliable (head injury, broken hand, etc)… View Message
General > Training Forum
Reply: Climber's Elbow and Hangboarding
Nov 30, 2014 my elbow issues were cured by finger and wrist range of motion in 5gal bucket of rice... it targets all the little muscles in your hands, wrists, forearms that get neglected wi… View Message
General > Big Wall and Aid Climbing
Reply: Getting soloing dialed
Nov 1, 2014 one last thing before i leave this thread.. i'm not an expert at this stuff, I just have been messing around with it a lot this summer and a couple weeks recently in the valley… View Message
General > Big Wall and Aid Climbing
Reply: Getting soloing dialed
Nov 1, 2014 .. another point on short-fixing.. i've become so frustrated with the grigri that just started tying clove backups instead of trying to feed the friggin thing. I'm pretty sure… View Message
General > Big Wall and Aid Climbing
Reply: Getting soloing dialed
Nov 1, 2014 Because I've only recently started using the SP, I haven't short-fixed with it yet so can't advocate for that application. FYI, my experience w/the SP comes from a run on lean… View Message
General > Big Wall and Aid Climbing
Reply: Getting soloing dialed
Nov 1, 2014 I had a hard time finding good info so here are some plumb points I've figured out through hard knocks and talking to people: I used a lightly modified grigri for a long tim… View Message
General > General Climbing
Reply: WTF...self belaying with a grigri 2?!!
Feb 21, 2014 DANGER: I used that setup on a couple alpine rope solo's because it was light, feeds and and seemed to lock up well. Intuitively sensing there was something dangerous about i… View Message