Larry Coats > Comments

Aug 15, 2023 S Idaho > City of Rocks > Animal Cracker Rock The Assassin 5.10a ● If someone could add some information here it would be helpful: the Bingham guide mentions a bolt and pin a… View Comment
Jul 20, 2023 Durango > Ft Lewis College > Whalen Gym (S Face) The Basic V1- ● Funny that I just ran across this now! I did the FA of this problem Fall Semester of 1973- first in Lowa mo… View Comment
Apr 9, 2023 Northern Arizona > Sedona Area > Sedona > Mormon Canyon The Fin - South Ramp 5.7 PG13 ● Just ran across this one, sorry for the delay! I put up this one solo, then Dave Dawson and I repeated it.… View Comment
Feb 5, 2022 Morrison/Evergr… > Lover's Leap Basically an overview of the standard routes that are usually climbed & the rap descent routes available. Just use caution when considering rapping the face - a single 60m will not work, and there is a possibility of rapping on a lead climber. A single 70m might work from the cave down; but I have not tried it. However, a single 60m works great to the gully going West from the top-out (good bolts are now next to the small tree). Not to mention, it helps keep the flow moving on a busy weekend day. Some of the other routes are not shown (like the original CMC 5.6 line -- this pic vantage didn't give a good view of it). ● I couldn't agree with Bruce more (hi Bruce, by the way!). Lovely trail leading down, the only extra gear ne… View Comment
Jun 6, 2021 Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Big Cottonwood Canyon Back of Beyond ● As of summer 2021, the approach is in pretty sad shape due to the late February avalanche cycle. Generator… View Comment
Apr 12, 2018 Northern Arizona > Oak Creek Canyon > Cave Springs > Old School Routes > Book of Friends (5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b) A Larry Coats or Scott Baxter image. 2nd pitch, I think the 2nd ascent, maybe the 3rd. P Davidson leading, Jim Haisley on the belay, swinging leads. ● Nice try on the photo PD- taken by Gordon MacNeil with my Pentax when I was shooting B&W: me leading and Ha… View Comment
Feb 4, 2017 Northern Arizona > Sedona Area > Sedona > Cathedral Rock… > Mace Little Big Man 5.11- PG13 ● Nice job, guys! I've eyed that flat-topped tower for 42 years, and speculated about how a route could b… View Comment
Jul 6, 2015 Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Big Cottonwood… > Dead Snag Social Engineering 5.10a ● Another great addition- I started up the lichen-covered crack directly below the upper crack, and then deci… View Comment
Jul 6, 2015 Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Big Cottonwood… > Dead Snag Call Me Slim 5.9+ ● Great new route addition, JS. Fun climbing, interesting moves, and steep fun. Nice work! View Comment
Apr 23, 2012 Northern Arizona > Sycamore Canyon > Paradise Forks > Prow Pilgrims Progress 5.10+ ● First ascent- Steve Grossman et al. (who else would go up on that ugly thing?) View Comment
Sep 13, 2011 Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Bell's Canyon > Bell's Beast Beast 5.10d ● We really enjoyed this route, and it would easily deserve three stars if not for the bit of third class aft… View Comment
Aug 4, 2011 Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Little Cottonwo… > Red Pine Crag Red Pine Crag. ● Note the mountain goat right in the main notch- very cool! View Comment
Oct 24, 2010 Northern Arizona > Sedona Area > Sedona > Midgley Bridge… > Acropolis Peter's Ladder 5.10 ● A little history for this route: it was another remarkable line envisioned by Scott Baxter, and named for h… View Comment
Oct 24, 2010 Northern Arizona > … 1 > Cathedral Rock… > S Mesa > S Mesa > Vortex in a Can (5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b) Not to be alarmist, but I noted the spiderwebbing series of hairline fractures that completely surround the closely spaced belay bolts- your sole security for starting the third pitch. ● I would be interested to hear from John and Chris about whether these cracks are new. We have seen this sit… View Comment
Oct 23, 2010 Northern Arizona > Sedona Area > W Sedona > Dry Creek Rd Area > Lost Huecos Wall Lost Huecos 5.10a/b R ● First ascent: Heather Hayes, Tomas Robison, Larry Coats View Comment
Oct 23, 2010 Northern Arizona > … > W Sedona > Dry Creek Rd Area > Long Canyon > Three Sisters Area Tiptoe Through the 2 Lips 5.10- ● I am responsible for adding the two-bolt belay at the top of the first pitch. Like Kole, I felt that the an… View Comment
Oct 21, 2010 Northern Arizona > Sedona Area > Sedona > Midgley Bridge… > Tisha Spire East Face 5.11c PG13 ● FA was Dugald Bremner/ L. Coats- one aid move off a tiny hex at the top of the thin crack. Paul got to use… View Comment
Oct 21, 2010 Northern Arizona > Sedona Area > Sedona > Marg's Draw > Firecat Spire North Face 5.9+ ● Just a little confusion on the FA info: The route was put up by Geoff Parker, utilizing his tied-together t… View Comment
Jan 10, 2008 Northern Arizona > Sycamore Canyon > Paradise Forks > Davidson Wall Kingfolia 5.10+ ● FA: Steve Grossman, Jim Haisley, Paul Davidson, early '80's. View Comment
Jan 10, 2008 Northern Arizona > Sycamore Canyon > Paradise Forks > Davidson Wall Bushman 5.11d ● FA: Steve Grossman, Paul Davidson, late '70's. View Comment
Jan 10, 2008 Northern Arizona > Sycamore Canyon > Paradise Forks > Davidson Wall Bushdoctor 5.11- ● FA: Paul Davidson, Jim Haisley, late '70's. View Comment
Jan 10, 2008 Northern Arizona > Sycamore Canyon > Paradise Forks > Prow Sail Away 5.12b ● Sorry, thought I'd updated the FA info: FA Tim Coats, Paul Davidson, and Jim Haisley, early '80's, with som… View Comment
Jan 10, 2008 Northern Arizona > Sycamore Canyon > Paradise Forks > Sine Wall Born Under a Bad Sine 5.10b ● First route put up at the Forks. Regardless of rumors, cams (Friends) were in use, just nothing smaller tha… View Comment
Oct 28, 2007 Northern Arizona > Oak Creek Canyon > Cave Springs > Old School Routes Dresdoom 5.9+ R ● A little detail that has been lost over the years concerning protection on this climb is to carry a bunch o… View Comment
Oct 28, 2007 Northern Arizona > Oak Creek Canyon > Cave Springs > Old School Routes Book of Friends 5.10c ● First ascent Scott Baxter and John Gault. View Comment
Oct 28, 2007 Northern Arizona > Sycamore Canyon > Paradise Forks > Prow Ship of Fools 5.10a ● A safety trick for the start that was revealed to me quite late, after scaring myself getting off the groun… View Comment
Oct 28, 2007 Northern Arizona > Sycamore Canyon > Paradise Forks > Pillow Wall Ivory Snow 5.11a/b ● Just for a little historical perspective- this was one of the Forks climbs that was put up pre-TCU's (small… View Comment
Oct 28, 2007 Northern Arizona > Sycamore Canyon > Paradise Forks > Gold Wall T.L. Bush 5.10 PG13 ● On the first ascent a "lost" technique was used to protect the moves off the ground- a nut toss into the ob… View Comment
Oct 28, 2007 Northern Arizona > Sycamore Canyon > Paradise Forks > Gold Wall Gold Finger 5.11 ● First ascent Larry and Tim Coats, late 70's, yarding off a nut to exit the ledge. Paul Davidson and Jim Hai… View Comment
Oct 28, 2007 Northern Arizona > Flagstaff Area > Oak Creek Canyo… > Overlook Syzygy 5.8 ● First ascent Scott Baxter, Lee Dexter, late 60's. Named for an astromical alignment of planets. View Comment
Oct 28, 2007 Northern Arizona > Flagstaff Area > Oak Creek Canyo… > Overlook Mint Jam 5.8 ● First ascent Scott Baxter, Lee Dexter, early 70's. View Comment
Oct 28, 2007 Northern Arizona > Flagstaff Area > Oak Creek Canyo… > Overlook Left Trinity Crack 5.10- ● First ascent Scott Baxter for all three of the Trinity Cracks. View Comment
Oct 28, 2007 Northern Arizona > Flagstaff Area > Oak Creek Canyo… > Overlook I've Always Been Crazy 5.10+ ● First ascent John Gault, Tim Toula, mid 80's. View Comment
Oct 28, 2007 Northern Arizona > Flagstaff Area > Oak Creek Canyo… > Overlook Burnt Buns 5.8 ● Also a Scott Baxter et al. route, early 70's? View Comment
Oct 28, 2007 Northern Arizona > Flagstaff Area > Oak Creek Canyo… > Overlook Angel's Delight 5.8- ● First ascent Scott Baxter, Lee Dexter, early 70's. View Comment
Oct 28, 2007 Northern Arizona > Flagstaff Area > Oak Creek Canyo… > Overlook Alley Oop 5.7+ ● First ascent Scott Baxter et al., early 70's. View Comment

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Larry Coats > Comments

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