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Chris Chaney

Stanton, Kentucky

Member Since
Aug 29, 2006
Last Visit: Mar 24, 2019
3,297 Points
Point Rank: #227 Details

Likes Trad, Sport, Tr, Gym
Leads Follows
Trad 5.7 5.9
Sport 5.7 5.10a
Boulders V3
Favorite Climbs
Kim and Ed's Crack @ Vedauwoo, North Ridge, Table Rock NC, Cruising Lane, RRG, KY
Other Interests
Cycling, photography, mountaineering
More Info
I began climbing in the winter of 1994. I was 20 years old. I, with my best friend from high school, was a hillbilly mountaineer. We climbed (scrambled) up on top of any chunk of rock, vegetated or not, that we could find. Our primary territory was the Red River Gorge.

In the fall of that year I began roped climbing. Initially I didn't have a regular partner, but eventually I met more and more people and began finding my niche. While I dabbled in sport, I considered myself a trad climber.

My evolution as a climber brought me to a point where I was boulering more and more because I was pushing into trad grades that scared me. When we bailed on some old school route, we'd usually end up bouldering around at the base of the cliff. Eventually I was going out and bouldering for the sake of bouldering, no pad, no spotter, hillbilly mountaineer style.

Finally I got a pad or two and began bouldering pretty intensely, never really progressing past V5, but bouldering day after day after day until my elbow gave out.

During this bouldering phase I really got into sport climbing as well because I finally had the power and endurance to do some routes that had always been above my ability.

I went back to trad after tendonitis shut me down a couple of times and have pretty much stuck to it ever since.

I guided in the RRG from 1997 until 2005. I miss it, but having a family to take care of made me re-evaluate my life.

Now, as I approach middle age I really want to get into alpine climbing and move away from cragging. [2010 update: I'm back to cragging...I miss being tied in to a rope!]

In February 2008 I moved to Colorado from Kentucky to work for Jefferson County Planning and Zoning. I love this area and even though I don't do much technical climbing these days I am trying to get back into bouldering and roped climbing.

I try to bag as many peaks as possible and am just giddy with the gazillion square acres of new places to explore within a short distance of where I am now.

In 2010 I began taking my kids (7 and 3) climbing and they have been enjoying it. I look forward to their limbs and minds growing to the point where I can take them to climb my favorites and belay them on routes of their choosing.

Comments View All 75

Mar 24, 2019
You can get a small but solid but placement before doing the mantel onto the traverse ledge. It helps as m… View Comment
Mar 20, 2018
Yes, there is a distinct trail that goes north for about 1.2 miles to the gate on the left side at the top… View Comment
Mar 6, 2018
I'd argue the PG-13 is more for the start. It's a bouldery beginning to get to the bolt with a bad landing… View Comment
Jun 12, 2017
When I first climbed this route I was breaking in to 5.10 trad. It felt spot on 10a to me. The crux is th… View Comment
Oct 21, 2016
Road is closed now, and you can't drive this far. View Comment
Oct 21, 2016
There never was good directions. But in general the directions provided should work. Park at the end of 9… View Comment

Forum Messages View All 10

Regional > Southern States
Reply: Top roping at RRG
Jan 2, 2016 I went through this when I was trying to learn to climb. It sucks that almost no one will give you a straight answer. I grew up fifteen minutes from the Red. I asked local ha… View Message
General > Community Forum
Reply: Boulder Sucks
Jun 23, 2010 I read it when it came out. Don't measure myself against a book. I know that I'm a good parent because I put effort into my parenting. I think for most people that's all it wou… View Message
General > Community Forum
Reply: Boulder Sucks
Jun 22, 2010 A few years ago I decided to stop being a 'serious' climber to be a better husband and a 'serious' dad. Now most 'serious' climbers annoy the raging heck out of me. Its just c… View Message
Regional > Colorado
Helen's Dome - Sheeprock Area 4/3 NEED PARTNER
Mar 30, 2010 I'm looking for someone to climb with this coming Saturday to do easy stuff. I've never been to that area but want to check it out. The wife and kids are out of town and I get… View Message
Regional > Colorado
Reply: NCAR (Boulder) Access
Aug 19, 2009 I got there right at 6am, but no one else was around so I couldn't tell if it was cool or not. View Message
Regional > Colorado
Reply: NCAR (Boulder) Access
Aug 19, 2009 I definitely feel like an interloper in Boulder. I keep waiting for people to ask to see my papers. Thanks a lot! Now that I know I can head back up there feeling slightly le… View Message