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md3

53 years old · Male

Member Since
Jun 2, 2006
Last Visit: 2 days ago
45 Points
Point Rank: #10,119 Details

Likes Trad, Sport
Leads Follows
Trad 5.11c 5.12a
Sport 5.12b 5.12d
Ice WI5 WI5
More Info
In alpine climbing where speed is safety I have always used the traditional approach of avoiding setting anchors whenever possible. This means stance belays and often hip or shoulder belays for the second. (Device belays for the leader.) On many routes you can go faster stopping short of full rope lengths to take advantage of stance belay opportunities than you can going the full rope length and setting anchors. Of course, this all depends on the terrain, and sometimes you can't get good stance belays, so you have to set anchors and then it makes sense to go as far as possible each pitch. But when you can forgo the anchors and just do hip or shoulder belays for the second, you can switch back and forth into fourth classing easier terrain more quickly, and move faster overall. Anyway- thatÂ’s my approach.


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90 Days 0 0 0
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