| Route Name |
Location |
Star Rating |
Difficulty |
Date |
|
●
Of Quartz It Goes
|
Custer SP
> …
> Middle Earth
> Far Downs
|
|
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sport
|
|
Oct 20, 2023 · Lead / Onsight. What a fun outing! Will followed while the girls packed up the cabin and then found us in the fardowns. So much quartz! Want some LED back lighting behind those monster quartz holds.
|
|
●
Evarete
|
Custer SP
> …
> Outlets
> Dam - Back Side
|
|
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sport
|
|
Oct 20, 2023 · Lead. Fun romp with Will and Alison. Angela followed. Such a fun line!
|
|
●
Waste Knot
|
Custer SP
> …
1
> Towers of Teeth
> Ephel Duath
|
|
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sport
|
|
Oct 20, 2023 · Follow. Followed Will. Such a great climb. Juggy most of the way for either your feet or hands and some times both! Crux really feels just below the anchor where it was quite steep.
|
|
●
Lunatic
|
Custer SP
> Moonlight Ridge
> Galaxy
|
|
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sport
|
|
Oct 19, 2023 · TR. Worked this with Will. We got higher than expected but both flamed out just over halfway up when it seems you must work to the right steep section. Fun tricky climbing when you don't know the beta.
|
|
●
Neptune
|
Custer SP
> Moonlight Ridge
> Galaxy
|
|
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sport
|
|
Oct 19, 2023 · TR. Climbed clean despite the high wind coming through the notch. Really fun line and stayed right on the arete as much as possible.
|
|
●
Saturn
|
Custer SP
> Moonlight Ridge
> Galaxy
|
|
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Trad
|
|
Oct 19, 2023 · TR. Fun, juggy, steep climbing. Good thing you can stem it out so much!
|
|
●
Dancing in the Moonlight
|
Custer SP
> Moonlight Ridge
> Galaxy
|
19
|
|
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sport
|
|
Oct 19, 2023 · Lead. Led with Will in order to set up Saturn and other TR's. He said it was rather hard in approach shoes
|
|
●
More Wallis
|
Custer SP
> Moonlight Ridge
> Thin Fin
|
4
|
|
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
TR
|
|
Oct 19, 2023 · TR. Scooted right up this thing this year without much trouble.
|
|
●
Vindication
|
Custer SP
> Moonlight Ridge
> Thin Fin
|
|
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sport
|
|
Oct 19, 2023 · Lead. Windy day up on the edge of this arete! Led after Will.
|
|
●
Joint Effort
|
Needles Of Rush…
> …
1
> Monster North
> Shakers
|
|
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sport
|
|
Oct 17, 2023 · Lead. Led after following Will on Pointy Little Devil. Awkward clip right at the crux. Rest of the climb is fun and varied. Gave Will a good view of Pointy Little Devil which he just climbed!
|
|
●
Pointy Little Devil
|
Needles Of Rush…
> …
1
> Monster North
> Shakers
|
|
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sport
|
|
Oct 17, 2023 · Follow. Followed Will. Sustained and thoughtful climbing all the way. Slipped a bit near the left edge 2/3 the way up before committing to a super small sharp foot crystal. Psyched to have watched Will flow confidently up despite his tired legs!
|
|
●
Weird Water
|
Needles Of Rush…
> …
1
> Marker
> Middle Marker Area
|
|
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Trad
|
|
Oct 17, 2023 · Lead. Took will and Alison. Nailed the approach which is a good start. Took easy ramp start and enjoyed the whole thing. Go right, clip a bolt, go left, clip a bolt. Rinse and repeat. 70 m rope just gets you back to the start.
|
|
●
Forty Something
|
Needles Of Rush…
> …
> S Seas
> Reef 1
|
|
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sport
|
|
Oct 16, 2023 · TR. Top roped after Way Cool Jr. Sustained and small feet and hands, but I sailed through it pretty quickly without any falls or sketchiness.
|
|
●
Way Cool Junior
|
Needles Of Rush…
> …
> S Seas
> Reef 1
|
|
46
|
|
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sport, TR
|
|
Oct 16, 2023 · Lead. Nothing special but it was on my to do list.
|
|
●
Solitaire
|
Needles Of Rush…
> …
> S Seas
> Borneo
|
|
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sport
|
|
Oct 16, 2023 · Follow. Followed Will. Plenty of stemming on the first half, then ride the pony! Crux is still as devious as ever. Step left to small pointy foothold!
|
|
●
Surging Wave
|
Needles Of Rush…
> …
> S Seas
> Shipyard Rock
|
|
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sport
|
|
Oct 16, 2023 · Lead. Climbed with Angela and then finished the upper pitch of Waves behind Will and Alison. Weird smooth rock, pinch grips, and lay backs. Not all that great and probably wouldn't repeat as Waves is better.
|
|
●
The Outer Shadow aka Morannon
|
Custer SP
> …
1
> Towers of Teeth
> Ephel Duath
|
|
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trad, Sport
|
|
Oct 15, 2023 · Lead / Fell/Hung. Fell around the 2nd or 3rd bolt when a foothold unexpectedly blew off below me. Other than that it was fun climbing and never feels quite 5.8.
|
|
●
Second Breakfast
|
Custer SP
> …
1
> Towers of Teeth
> Ephel Duath
|
|
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sport
|
|
Oct 15, 2023 · Lead. Finished the day on this one. It goes and goes! Fun climbing at the end.
|
|
●
The Guardian
|
Custer SP
> …
1
> Towers of Teeth
> Guardian
|
|
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Trad
|
|
Oct 15, 2023 · TR. Top rope after Will. Managed to climb without falling. Some thin feet and weird side pulls at the crux.
|
|
●
Guardian Face
|
Custer SP
> …
1
> Towers of Teeth
> Guardian
|
|
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sport
|
|
Oct 15, 2023 · TR. Probably would have been a touch easier to stay a bit lower with the feet after the second bolt. Fun stuff
|
|
●
Trail of Teeth
|
Custer SP
> …
1
> Towers of Teeth
> Guardian
|
|
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Sport
|
|
Oct 15, 2023 · Follow. Followed Will in my approach shoes. Beautiful day with snow all around.
|
|
●
Just the Tip
|
Central Oregon
> …
> (m) Smith Rock…
> (5) Southern Tip
|
|
25
|
|
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sport
|
|
Jun 24, 2023 · Lead / Fell/Hung. Hung briefly at the crux and then a key crimp appeared to the right. Finished with no trouble. Fun route
|
|
●
Amelia Dearheart
|
Central Oregon
> …
> (m) Smith Rock…
> (5) Southern Tip
|
|
81
|
|
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sport
|
|
Jun 24, 2023 · Lead / Onsight.
|
|
●
9999
|
Central Oregon
> …
> (m) Smith Rock…
> (5) Southern Tip
|
|
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sport
|
|
Jun 24, 2023 · Lead / Flash.
|
|
●
5 Gallon Buckets
|
Central Oregon
> Smith Rock
> (g) Morning Glory Wall
|
|
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sport
|
|
Jun 24, 2023 · Lead / Onsight. Second party on the route for the day. Rock polished from millions of ascents, but fun first route at Smith Rock.
|
|
●
Evarete
|
Custer SP
> …
> Outlets
> Dam - Back Side
|
|
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sport
|
|
Sep 10, 2022 · Lead / Onsight. Angela followed. Very enjoyable last climb of this trip. Some runouts, but holds gallore!
|
|
●
Hairy Horn
|
Custer SP
> …
> Outlets
> Rhinoceros Rock
|
|
19
|
|
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Trad, Sport 3 pitches
|
|
Sep 10, 2022 · 2 pitches. Lead / Onsight. Fun climb to the top of the horn! Angela followed. One "tough" move between first belay and the balcony to get your heart pumping. Neat short summit pitch.
|
|
●
Chockstone Pinnacle
|
Custer SP
> …
> Outlets
> Rhinoceros Rock
|
|
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Sport 2 pitches
|
|
Sep 10, 2022 · 1 pitch. Lead. Good warm up on a chilly morning. Climbed in one long pitch and belated from top. Angela followed.
|
|
●
Pool and Pie
|
Custer SP
> …
> Outlets
> Dam - Back Side
|
|
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R
Trad, TR
|
|
Sep 8, 2022 · TR. TR after route to left. Didn't pay much attention to the guidebook and though I was on the most sustained 5.7 ever. 9- seems about right. Angela TR'd in great style after me.
|
|
●
Better Than Beer and Pretzels
|
Custer SP
> …
> Outlets
> Dam - Back Side
|
|
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Sport
|
|
Sep 8, 2022 · Lead / Flash. After bailing on Conn Diagonal, we landed here so Angela could get back on the horse. She led and found a nice chicken head to supplement the lack of bolts on the second half. Pulled the rope and I led too.
|
|
●
Conn Diagonal
|
Custer SP
> …
> Outlets
> Outer Outlet
|
|
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Trad 3 pitches
|
|
Sep 8, 2022 · 1 pitch. Follow. Forgot what a wild ride the first pitch was moving in and out of the flake system. Angela wasn't feeling the psyche today so we bailed from the first belay. Lots of long slings and gear up to #4 cam.
|
|
●
Conn Route
|
Custer SP
> Picket Fence
> Sickle
|
|
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13
Trad
|
|
Sep 7, 2022 · 2 pitches. Lead / Onsight. What an outing! Definitely felt a few 5.6 moves and plenty of "the leader must not fall" territory. Opted to move right after ancient bolt and set a belay on nice ledge before continuing to top. Sweet little summit.
|
|
●
Waterdance
|
Custer SP
> …
1
> Sunday Gulch
> Water Horse
|
|
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sport
|
|
Sep 6, 2022 · Lead / Onsight. Quite less chunky rock than towers of teeth where we spent the morning. Fun rout in a beautiful setting. Couple of steep cruxes and a few committing highsteps on small hand holds.
|
|
●
The Outer Shadow aka Morannon
|
Custer SP
> …
1
> Towers of Teeth
> Ephel Duath
|
|
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trad, Sport
|
|
Sep 6, 2022 · Lead. Angela followed. Steep but fun start and just enjoyable the whole way up.
|
|
●
Second Breakfast
|
Custer SP
> …
1
> Towers of Teeth
> Ephel Duath
|
|
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sport
|
|
Sep 6, 2022 · Follow. Angela led this one too! More fun and a bit more difficult than I noted last time. Seems more 5.7 than 5.6.
|
|
●
Trail of Teeth
|
Custer SP
> …
1
> Towers of Teeth
> Guardian
|
|
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Sport
|
|
Sep 6, 2022 · Follow. Angela led as our first climb of the week.
|
Continue with onX Maps
Continue with Facebook
RSS Feed of Ticks
