Suggested Page Improvements to Guaranteed Rugged
Marble Canyon is a limestone big wall area. Due to this geology, loose rock and rock fall should be expected. Climbers need to be aware of this characteristic when sharing routes with other parties, especially when rappelling. Tread lightly. It is normal for holds to break in the beginning of a new route's lifecycle. Expect loose rock on routes particularly along the edges of routes if you start pawing around looking for better holds. Try to stay within the confines of the bolt line to mitigate your risk of falling when you encounter crumbly rock, and to decrease risk of rockfall to climbers below.
Marble Canyon has a lot of rock debris and scree on ledges that loom over routes. During high winds and heavy rainfall (rain bursts and thunder storms), debris is dislodged and is prone to falling. Water-saturated scree slopes and debris on the large terrace above the Lower Apron routes (and large ledges on all routes) create debris flows over the lower walls. Climbers have been caught on Lower Apron routes during sudden rain bursts and been thankful to have survived after being pummelled by debris torrents and sudden water cascades.
Please also note, these same debris flows can be large and are subject to suddenly closing the highway to traffic when they flow out and block traffic. This is a reality that locals know well. Thankfully, the climate in this region is typically arid and sunny most of the year so rainfall is limited but this does effect the landscapes ability to cope with sudden rain bursts and thunder showers.
Despite being bolted, routes should be treated as alpine climbs, with respect to rock quality, commitment required, and weather events. Rain should be considered a serious threat due to the landscape not having evolved to absorb the water. Runoff leads to landslides, debris flows, and rockfall unlike other climbing areas. ***Rappel off routes at the first signs of grey clouds and rain***
A fundraiser through GoFundMe called Marble Mega Multipitch (Guaranteed Rugged 10d) can be accessed at https://gofund.me/9f59fcde.