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Suggested Page Improvements to Mile High Club


Matt Schonwald
Sep 8, 2019
Protection Suggestion
Draws and a 70 m rope( 60 meter rope comes up short on the first rappel off the summit). A couple alpine draws are nice to cut back on drag. 

Nick Drake
Jul 17, 2020
Description Suggestion
Yet another great route in the Vesper Peak area, it's impossible not to stop and stare at this buttress when you're coming back from Vesper. Great aesthetic position and fun movement. Technically it is not on Morning Start Peak, but slightly south. It sits at exactly one mile high.

Note that while the route is fully bolted this is still an alpine climb. As such there are some ledgey portions, while being very well bolted I would not say this is a good area to push the grade for the leader or follower. If coming early in the season be prepared to inspect for any loose rocks or bolts due to freeze/thaws over the winter.

There is a nice register at the summit, please respect the FA wishes and don't post photos of it online.

Ascent:
Pitch 1: Hero climbing up and left on steep jugs leads to a beautiful face and arête. 115 feet, 5.10a.

Pitch 2: Continue up the featured face to a belay on the crest. 70 feet, 5.9.

Pitch 3: Cross a large ledge and ascend a 30 foot headwall with some cracks and good holds. Easier climbing leads to the base of the next headwall. Note that an intermediate anchor about 15 feet right of the climbing line and 10 feet above the lip of the lower headwall is used on the descent. 150 feet, 5.9.

Pitch 4: Step right and climb a clean face to the base of a dihedral. 70 feet, 5.10a.

Pitch 5: *money pitch* Climb the stunning dihedral and exit up and right to an airy belay. 80 feet, 5.10a.

Pitch 6: Head up the lower arête, balance on top of a large flake, and climb a beautiful face to a spectacular arête. 115 feet, 5.10a.

Pitch 7: Make a tricky move or two on a vertical face, cross ledges to the final headwall, and follow a clean ramp to the summit. 100 feet, 5.8

Descent:
Update from Rad Roberts: We added a rap line next to the route so it's now possible to get up and down with a single 60 meter rope. Use the lower anchor at the top of p6, the higher anchor above p5, and then keep going. Be careful not to get your rope stuck in the rappel from the top of p2. Friction there is really high and there are constrictions to avoid - use the regular p1 anchor if it's free as you can get down from there w a 60. Be safe, have fun!

The starting ledge is several hundred feet above the ground and rather exposed. Climbers might want to traverse back to the starting bolt before unroping. It's possible to pull the rope on the final rappel from that position.

FA write up:
http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/1143281/1

Great write up from Steph Abegg with more photos:
http://www.stephabegg.com/home/tripreports/washington/northcascades/milehighclub


Rad Roberts
Jul 18, 2020
Description Suggestion
Yet another great route in the Vesper Peak area, it's impossible not to stop and stare at this buttress when you're coming back from Vesper. Great aesthetic position and fun movement. The route follows the striking Southwest arete of the Vega North Tower, North of the Morning Star peak.

Note that while the route is fully bolted this is still an alpine climb. As such there are some ledgey portions, while being very well bolted I would not say this is a good area to push the grade for the leader or follower. If coming early in the season be prepared to inspect for any loose rocks or bolts due to freeze/thaws over the winter.

There is a nice register at the summit, please respect the FA wishes and don't post photos of it online.

Ascent:
Pitch 1: Hero climbing up and left on steep jugs leads to a beautiful face and arête. 115 feet, 5.10a.

Pitch 2: Continue up the featured face to a belay on the crest. 70 feet, 5.9.

Pitch 3: Cross a large ledge and ascend a 30 foot headwall with some cracks and good holds. Easier climbing leads to the base of the next headwall. Note that an intermediate anchor about 15 feet right of the climbing line and 10 feet above the lip of the lower headwall is used on the descent. 150 feet, 5.9.

Pitch 4: Step right and climb a clean face to the base of a dihedral. 70 feet, 5.10a.

Pitch 5: *money pitch* Climb the stunning dihedral and exit up and right to an airy belay. 80 feet, 5.10a.

Pitch 6: Head up the lower arête, balance on top of a large flake, and climb a beautiful face to a spectacular arête. 115 feet, 5.10a.

Pitch 7: Make a tricky move or two on a vertical face, cross ledges to the final headwall, and follow a clean ramp to the summit. 100 feet, 5.8

Descent:
Update from Rad Roberts: We added a rap line next to the route so it's now possible to get up and down with a single 60 meter rope. Use the lower anchor at the top of p6, the higher anchor above p5, and then keep going. Be careful not to get your rope stuck in the rappel from the top of p2. Friction there is really high and there are constrictions to avoid - use the regular p1 anchor if it's free as you can get down from there w a 60. Be safe, have fun!

The starting ledge is several hundred feet above the ground and rather exposed. Climbers might want to traverse back to the starting bolt before unroping. It's possible to pull the rope on the final rappel from that position.

FA write up:
http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/1143281/1

Great write up from Steph Abegg with more photos:
http://www.stephabegg.com/home/tripreports/washington/northcascades/milehighclub


Rad Roberts
Jul 19, 2020
Description Suggestion
This modern classic may have it all: excellent climbing, solid rock, an outstanding position and summit, grand alpine views, and a quick and easy approach and descent. The route follows the striking Southwest arete of the Vega North Tower, North of the Morning Star peak. It can be popular so plan accordingly.

Although this route is fully bolted, climbers must be prepared to handle steep snow in spring, multiple rappels on the descent, and some loose rock on ledges. Care should be taken to avoid knocking rocks off the right side of the route as these will shoot down the approach gully. Climbers are advised to wear helmets in the approach gully and avoid lingering there. Note that there is clean drinking water available just before the gully at the base of the route if this area is snow-free.  

Descent: Many people make mistakes. Consider bringing this description to avoid an epic. It is possible to rap with a single 60 meter rope. Use the rap rings set back from the top of the route. Put your rope over the least sharp part of the edge (we hammered this a lot). From the summit, go down and angle to the lower anchor at the base of pitch 7. To rap p6, toss your rope slightly left of the bolt line to avoid hitting anyone below you. Be careful not to knock off loose rock as it could hit climbers below you. Rap down the p6 face and move to a rap anchor about 10ft  skiers left and 10ft above the anchor at the top of the dihedral pitch. Do not go to the top of the dihedral pitch. Make a short rappel to an anchor on a ledge to the side of the dihedral pitch (short free hanging rappel above ledge). Rap p4 to one of the two anchors available, again making sure not to throw your rope onto other climbers. Rap the low angle upper section of p3 (mostly walking), aiming for a 10ft tall tree about 15ft skiers left of the climbing line (we will flag this tree soon). Find the dedicated rappel anchor tucked in a nook just below the 10ft tree. This is 15 ft skiers left of the climbing line and just above the vertical section at the start of p3. Do NOT rap down the vertical face unless you have two ropes as you'll not reach the next anchors. From the nook anchor, rap down to either of the anchors at the top of p2. Rap to the p1 anchor. Rap from there to the base of the route. The starting ledge is several hundred feet above the ground and rather exposed. Consider staying on rappel and walking back to the belay bolt at the start of the route. You can pull your rope from there. If there are climbers above you, keep your helmet on until you are clear of the gully.

Ascent:
Pitch 1: Hero climbing up and left on steep jugs leads to a beautiful face and arête. 115 feet, 5.10a.

Pitch 2: Continue up the featured face to a belay on the crest. 70 feet, 5.9.

Pitch 3: Cross a large ledge and ascend a 30 foot headwall with some cracks and good holds. Easier climbing leads to the base of the next headwall. Note that there is an intermediate anchor about 15 feet right of the climbing line and 10 feet above the lip of the lower headwall is used on the descent. You cannot see this on your way up. 150 feet, 5.9.

Pitch 4: Step right and climb a clean face to the base of a dihedral. 70 feet, 5.10a.

Pitch 5: Climb the stunning dihedral and exit up and right to an airy belay. 80 feet, 5.10a.

Pitch 6: Head up the lower arête (notice rap anchor on 10 ft up and right from dihedral anchor), balance on top of a large flake, ascend the beautiful face (crux), move left to a spectacular arête and finish on the crest. 115 feet, 5.10a.

Pitch 7: Make a tricky move or two past bolts on a vertical face, then move right across ledges to the final headwall. Follow a clean ramp to the summit. Watch for loose rock on this pitch. Sign the summit register. You've earned it! 100 feet, 5.8

Descent: see above,

FA write up:
http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/1143281/1

Nice write up and photos from Steph Abegg:
http://www.stephabegg.com/home/tripreports/washington/northcascades/milehighclub


Rad Roberts
Jul 26, 2020
Trad Climb: No
Sport Route: Yes

skye h
May 17, 2021
Description Suggestion

This modern classic may have it all: excellent climbing, solid rock, an outstanding position and summit, grand alpine views, and a quick and easy approach and descent. The route follows the striking Southwest arete of the Vega North Tower, North of the Morning Star peak. It can be popular so plan accordingly.


Although this route is fully bolted, climbers must be prepared to handle steep snow in spring, multiple rappels on the descent, and some loose rock on ledges. Care should be taken to avoid knocking rocks off the right side of the route as these will shoot down the approach gully. Climbers are advised to wear helmets in the approach gully and avoid lingering there. Note that there is clean drinking water available just before the gully at the base of the route if this area is snow-free.  


Descent: Many people make mistakes. Consider bringing this description to avoid an epic. It is possible to rap with a single 60 meter rope. Use the rap rings set back from the top of the route. Put your rope over the least sharp part of the edge (we hammered this a lot). From the summit, go down and angle to the lower anchor at the base of pitch 7. To rap p6, toss your rope slightly left of the bolt line to avoid hitting anyone below you. Be careful not to knock off loose rock as it could hit climbers below you. Rap down the p6 face and move to a rap anchor about 10ft  skiers left and 10ft above the anchor at the top of the dihedral pitch. Do not go to the top of the dihedral pitch. Make a short rappel to an anchor on a ledge to the side of the dihedral pitch (short free hanging rappel above ledge). Rap p4 to one of the two anchors available, again making sure not to throw your rope onto other climbers. Rap the low angle upper section of p3 (mostly walking), aiming for a 10ft tall tree about 15ft skiers left of the climbing line (we will flag this tree soon). Find the dedicated rappel anchor tucked in a nook just below the 10ft tree. This is 15 ft skiers left of the climbing line and just above the vertical section at the start of p3. Do NOT rap down the vertical face unless you have two ropes as you'll not reach the next anchors. From the nook anchor, rap down to either of the anchors at the top of p2. Rap to the p1 anchor. Rap from there to the base of the route. The starting ledge is several hundred feet above the ground and rather exposed. Consider staying on rappel and walking back to the belay bolt at the start of the route. You can pull your rope from there. If there are climbers above you, keep your helmet on until you are clear of the gully.


Ascent:

Pitch 1: Hero climbing up and left on steep jugs leads to a beautiful face and arête. 115 feet, 5.10a.


Pitch 2: Continue up the featured face to a belay on the crest. 70 feet, 5.9.


Pitch 3: Cross a large ledge and ascend a 30 foot headwall with some cracks and good holds. Easier climbing leads to the base of the next headwall. Note that there is an intermediate anchor about 15 feet right of the climbing line and 10 feet above the lip of the lower headwall is used on the descent. You cannot see this on your way up. 150 feet, 5.9.


Pitch 4: Step right and climb a clean face to the base of a dihedral. 70 feet, 5.10a.


Pitch 5: Climb the stunning dihedral and exit up and right to an airy belay. 80 feet, 5.10a.


Pitch 6: Head up the lower arête (notice rap anchor on 10 ft up and right from dihedral anchor), balance on top of a large flake, ascend the beautiful face (crux), move left to a spectacular arête and finish on the crest. 115 feet, 5.10a.


Pitch 7: Make a tricky move or two past bolts on a vertical face, then move right across ledges to the final headwall. Follow a clean ramp to the summit. Watch for loose rock on this pitch. Sign the summit register. You've earned it! 100 feet, 5.8


Descent: see above,


FA write up:

http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/1143281/1


Nice write up and photos from Steph Abegg:

https://sites.google.com/stephabegg.com/washington/tripreports/morningstar


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