Suggested Page Improvements to Finger of Fate
Update the rack, did this route easily in a day no fixing, triples of .2-.75 doubles 2 and 3, single 4 and 5, would go faster with triples to 3 and two 4s one good set of offset nuts, didn't use the tricams or ball nuts,or any pins of any kind, no cheater stick,12 alpine draws. update the Grade, I would call this thing 5.8 C2+F, F because of the few fixed pins on route and the tricams on the roof pitch. We had all totem cams and alien like cams so less trickery was probably needed. thanks
Tito and I talked about these pitch descriptions, and I believe the main page should be updated. Grade should also be changed to 5.8 or 5.9 C2+
Pitch 1: 5.8 C1 (130ft) Aid/free the obvious crack systems. lots of it could be sandy free climbed at a moderate grade (triples of #2 and #3, doubles of #4 would be useful if aiding and not wanting to back clean)
Pitch 2: 5.7 C2 (80ft) Continue aiding up the obvious crack/pin scar system.
Pitch 3: 5.8 C2+ (70ft) Pin scars and holes off belay is tricky aiding but brief. Some mandatory free moves that are committing on this pitch.
Pitch 4: 5.8 C2F (50ft) The traverse is well protected by the original drilled angle anchor one bad angle and bad star drive and one good angle. the old star drive protecting the beginning of the roof bulge is still there and is manky, both fixed tricams are in place and menacing as ever! haha, I brought one screamer on route it came in handy for piece of mind...gets you to base of The Finger.
Pitch 5: 5.8 C1 (80ft) Some easy scrambling with good bolts leads you to a wider crack system, good bigger gear leads you to some 5.8 groveling. ends standing on ridge with the duck in front of you.
Pitch 6: 5.8 (80-90ft) Around The Duck puts you at the rappel stations for the decent. climb some 5.8 weird to anchor.
Pitch 7: 5.7 C2 (80ft)some placements and fixed pin lead you to many bolts to anchor.
Pitch 8: 5.8 A0 (100ft) Almost a bolt ladder, Be bustin' some free moves and top steps.
Pitch 9: 4th class
Pitch 1: 5.8 C1 (130ft) Aid/free the obvious crack systems. lots of it could be sandy free climbed at a moderate grade (triples of #2 and #3, doubles of #4 would be useful if aiding and not wanting to back clean)
Pitch 2: 5.7 C2 (80ft) Continue aiding up the obvious crack/pin scar system.
Pitch 3: 5.8 C2+ (70ft) Pin scars and holes off belay is tricky aiding but brief. Some mandatory free moves that are committing on this pitch.
Pitch 4: 5.8 C2F (50ft) The traverse is well protected by the original drilled angle anchor one bad angle and bad star drive and one good angle. the old star drive protecting the beginning of the roof bulge is still there and is manky, both fixed tricams are in place and menacing as ever! haha, I brought one screamer on route it came in handy for piece of mind...gets you to base of The Finger.
Pitch 5: 5.8 C1 (80ft) Some easy scrambling with good bolts leads you to a wider crack system, good bigger gear leads you to some 5.8 groveling. ends standing on ridge with the duck in front of you.
Pitch 6: 5.8 (80-90ft) Around The Duck puts you at the rappel stations for the decent. climb some 5.8 weird to anchor.
Pitch 7: 5.7 C2 (80ft)some placements and fixed pin lead you to many bolts to anchor.
Pitch 8: 5.8 A0 (100ft) Almost a bolt ladder, Be bustin' some free moves and top steps.
Pitch 9: 4th class
Pitches: 8
First Ascent: Layton Kor, George Hurley, Huntley Ingalls 5/1962
Height (ft):