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Suggested Page Improvements to Sloth Slab


Caverdude O'Cicero
Jun 10, 2018
Description Suggestion
Sloth Slab is an upper-mountain beginner area. Most of the routes are 5.6 or less. I've witnessed many times how the typical 5.6-5.7 Mount Lemmon beginner route can be too difficult or intimidating for a brand-new climber, so I made this area. All the routes are bolted generously, so it's a good place for first leads. The rock face itself starts out low-angle and slabby, but some routes actually go through a juggy and near-vertical section. Some anchors can be reached by hiking to the top of the wall, but honestly it's probably easier to just lead up a climb. The wall is west-facing, so it goes into the sun at about 11am. Most of the routes that are around the black-stained gully (Which is Rocky Road - 5.3) start on the belay ledge about 15 feet up, where a two bolt belay stance exists. A 60 meter rope will NOT reach if you belay from the ground.

**** 70M rope recommended **** Tie a knot in the end of your rope ****

Almost all routes have lower-off hooks or biners at the anchors. You're welcome to lower off them AFTER you've finished climbing, but please toprope off your own gear. The one route that has more traditional chain anchors is "Pleistocene Megafauna", and that was done in order to teach people how to clean anchors and rappel safely. You can walk up to the first-pitch anchors of that route fairly easily.
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