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Member Since: Jul 7, 2005
Last Visit: 1 day ago
Contact Ken Cangi

Point Rank: # 1,884
Total Points: 360

90 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



Where has Ken Cangi been climbing?










Contributions


All 2229 | Routes 8 | Areas | Photos 100 | Page Improvements | Comments 286 | Posts 1469 | Stars 208 | Ratings 158
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Ken Cangi : Home Board 2015 : Photo
By: Ken Cangi When: Jul 20, 2015

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Comments:



Location: Colorado : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Bongo Boulder : Bongo (Fury) (V6 PG13)
By: Ken Cangi When: Jul 12, 2015

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Comments: I don't doubt you, Greg, although I flash consensus V5-6 pretty consistently, and this felt nowhere near that easy. I must have missed some key beta. It is pretty easy all the way to what felt like two burly moves on a micro-crimp, a nothing-sloper, and crap for feet, and then it eases way up on the top-out.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Bongo Boulder : Bongo (Fury) (V6 PG13)
By: Ken Cangi When: Jun 7, 2015

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Comments: Classic problem. Maybe something broke, because this is not V6. More like solid V7. The crux feels harder than Valhalla and Girlfriend's Backside, unless I'm missing something.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Eldorado Canyon Bouldering : Milton Boulder : Milton (V4)
By: Ken Cangi When: May 3, 2015

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Comments: Just did this thing again, after 20+ years. Still fun, and still felt stout for V4.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : Wingless Victory (5.13a/b R)
By: Ken Cangi When: Apr 26, 2015

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Comments: Does anyone know what shape the bolts are in?


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Below Lower Ram... : Captain Crunch (5.13a)
By: Ken Cangi When: Mar 31, 2015

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Comments: Props to Joe Crotty for replacing some old, manky bolts on CC, on Sunday, 3/29/2015.

Rock Climbing Photo: Os are original hardware. Xs are new hardware.
Os are original hardware. Xs are new hardware.



Location: Fixed Hardware: Bolts & Anc... : NO-FUSS MUSSY : Photo
By: Ken Cangi When: Mar 29, 2015

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Comments: An easy fix is to use long draws, which would hang below the actual Mussy Hooks, et al.


Location: Fixed Hardware: Bolts & Anc... : NO-FUSS MUSSY : Photo
By: Ken Cangi When: Mar 26, 2015

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Comments: The other two pics have the Mussys, This one is meant to show the simplicity of going from tr to rap. I'll take redundancy any day. Stuff fails. It's the nature of the beast.


Location: Colorado : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Overhang Area : Mrs. Hen Places a Peck (5.11d)
By: Ken Cangi When: Feb 20, 2015

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Comments: If you all are referring to the clip in the middle of the headwall, it's dead easy from the good crimp out left near the arete. No reason to clip it from the bad slot in the crack. 11c/d hanging the draws. 11b/c with them already hung. Interesting movement the entire way. Bullet the Brown Cloud is less sustained, although the crux move is much harder at about 11+. 11a/b for BTBC is way off the mark.


Location: Colorado : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Brown Cloud Rocks : Bullet The Brown Cloud (5.11b/c)
By: Ken Cangi When: Jan 28, 2015

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Comments: Grade-inconsistency is definitely a thing at Table. Fwiw, I opted for going left to the rail, instead of staying on the arete. The latter felt contrived. I missed no holds and found this pitch solid at about 11d. Interesting boulder problem crux.


Location: Colorado : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Brown Cloud Rocks : Volobee (aka Jolobee) (5.11a PG13)
By: Ken Cangi When: Jan 28, 2015

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Comments: Okay pitch, although nowhere near 5.11. More like low-end 5.10. The ratings at this crag are all over the place.


Location: Colorado : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Overhang Area : Chicken Dance (5.12a)
By: Ken Cangi When: Jan 24, 2015

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Comments: Using the stems down low felt more natural than the contrived path suggested here. Climbing this pitch using everything within easy reach weighs in at about 11a/b, imo. I'd give it 3 stars, on gear, using the dihedral.


Location: Colorado : Canon City : Shelf Road : Sand Gulch : Free Form Wall : Freeform (5.12a)
By: Ken Cangi When: Jan 19, 2015

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Comments: I remember this being a very fun route. It felt like 12a, although easier than Gym Arete, which might be a sandbag for the area.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lower Dream Canyon : Plotinus Wall : ... : Lucid Dreaming (5.12c/d)
By: Ken Cangi When: Jan 3, 2015

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Comments: Not going to mince words in saying that I oppose permadraws on a route like LD. Hanging draws on this rig is a breeze. I've done it several times. Moreover, having permadraws prohibits the ability of hanging draws for a traditional onsight, which still matters to some climbers. Convenience draws are best suited for gyms and steep, dry, cave-routes which are otherwise a major undertaking to equip. I own expensive Petzl Spirits for a reason, and I don't want to be forced into using permadraws beca... more >>


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Mountain Rose : Grizzly Rose (5.10c)
By: Ken Cangi When: Nov 7, 2014

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Comments: I wonder if this is the route that I've been warming up on for Sinopia. It's about ten feet to the left of Golden Rose.


Location: Sport Climbing : The 10 Essentials of Sport ...
By: Ken Cangi When: Nov 5, 2014

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Comments: The Gri Gri is the vetted and preferred device for sport climbing, for obvious reasons to any seasoned sport-belayer. That said, never release the brake-end of the rope without first cinching it off with a Mule Knot. Any sudden shift in body-position can release enough pressure from the Gri Gri's cam to allow slippage, potentially dropping the climber onto a ledge or the ground. No bueno.

The beauty of the Gri Gri is in that the cam takes the weight off of the belayer's arm, allowing climbers t... more >>


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bowling Alley : Lower Right Side : Father Figure (5.11b)
By: Ken Cangi When: Oct 31, 2014

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Comments: This route, imo, is more deserving of 3 stars than 2. The movement is very good.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Tonnere Tower : Treasure Wall : Buried Treasure (5.9-)
By: Ken Cangi When: Oct 30, 2014

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Comments: Buried Alive feels like the most natural line of pitches. Very fun three-pitch 5.9. Great intro for aspiring 5.9 leaders. Carry your approach shoes, as the walk-off is much easier and faster than rapping.

Pitch 1: (Buried Treasure) 5.8-
Pitch 2: (Buried Treasure) 5.6
Pitch 3: (Staying Alive crux) 5.9.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Tonnere Tower : Sport Land : Stayin' Alive (5.10a)
By: Ken Cangi When: Oct 30, 2014

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Comments: Buried Alive feels like the most natural line of pitches. Very fun three-pitch 5.9. Great intro for aspiring 5.9 leaders. Carry your approach shoes, as the walk-off is much easier and faster than rapping.

Pitch 1: (Buried Treasure) 5.8-
Pitch 2: (Buried Treasure) 5.6
Pitch 3: (Staying Alive crux) 5.9.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Frisky Cliff : Sinopia (5.13a)
By: Ken Cangi When: Sep 20, 2014

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Comments: This is an interesting route with varied climbing. It starts with a short, straightforward, 11d dihedral to a bivy ledge, followed by two short boulder problems (V6 to a V5) split by a jug, and then a 11b dihedral to the anchors. It's not over until you gain the slab. I'm giving this route 3 stars for the quality of climbing overall.

Props to anyone so strong that this feels like 12c. Climbers at their limit in this grade will likely be disappointed if they get on this rig thinking that it's 12... more >>


Location: Colorado : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : High Profile Wall : Stuffed Wolf (5.13b)
By: Ken Cangi When: Sep 14, 2014

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Comments: The crux move to the right-hand pinch is a stopper for me. No giveaway. Solid 8a.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bowling Alley : Main Crag : Meteor Rhoadblock (5.12a/b)
By: Ken Cangi When: Sep 7, 2014

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Comments: This one flummoxed me for two sessions until I finally unlocked a crux sequence that worked. I found no way to make the hand-jam feel anywhere near 12a/b. That rattly jam felt much harder. I'm pretty confident in that I found the easiest beta, and it felt like solid 12b to me and my partner. Btw, the fall is clean. The ledges below you look sketchy, although you'll clear them.

I highly recommend this pitch.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Roof Routes : Kloeberdanz (5.11c R)
By: Ken Cangi When: Aug 25, 2014

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Comments: I seem to recall the original rating clocking in at 11- or thereabouts. That felt about accurate to me. The heel hook makes everything pretty reasonable.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Roof Routes : Downpressor Man (5.12b)
By: Ken Cangi When: Aug 23, 2014

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Comments: Can't believe that there is not one photo of this classic posted here. Time to change that. Went out there, today. Still love this route. Super high quality, classic, Eldo trickery.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lower Dream Canyon : Plotinus Wall : ... : Lucid Dreaming (5.12c/d)
By: Ken Cangi When: Aug 17, 2014

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Comments: I'm with J on this, Chris. The draws were sun-damaged, and the biners were worn enough to potentially damage rope running over them. The draw on the fourth bolt was curled up stiff into a 90 degree position from the sun-damage. If you can't see the danger potential from the pic, then I'm especially glad that I removed them before someone gets hurt.

As for replacing them, it's not my responsibility, nor am I in the financial position to. LD is not a gym route, and no one asked the draw owner to ... more >>


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