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Member Since: Jul 7, 2005
Last Visit: 9 hours ago
Contact Ken Cangi

Point Rank: # 1,400
Total Points: 580

90 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3



Where has Ken Cangi been climbing?










Contributions


All 2150 | Routes 8 | Areas | Approach Trails | Photos 100 | Page Improvements | Comments 207 | Posts 1469 | Stars 208 | Ratings 158
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Colorado : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : The Wasteland : The Beast (5.13a)
By: Ken Cangi When: Mar 6, 2017

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Comments: I agree with Joe. Moving the anchors up would also negate every ascent of the original line. Leave them as is.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : The Yellow Spur (5.9+)
By: Ken Cangi When: Feb 11, 2017

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Comments: I did this route several times back in the day, although always with the 5.10 start and finish, so I guess I've never done the proper route. An Eldo classic for the grade.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Bongo Boulder : ... : Photo
By: Ken Cangi When: Jan 16, 2017

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Comments: There's only one problem on the boulder, and it has a low-percentage, stopper crux for the grade (V6) and a sketchy highball top-out, so I doubt it will see much traffic.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lower Dream Canyon : Plotinus Wall : ... : Lucid Dreaming (5.12c/d)
By: Ken Cangi When: Dec 13, 2016

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Comments: That's a tough one, Joe. My initial thought about the route was that the top half was wasted mileage, although I came to see it as a fun cool-down after the business. Cleaning the pitch is pretty simple, and I don't think moving the anchors over will make cleaning the overhanging section much easier.

The route is a well established classic, which has been done too many times now to change it, IMO.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Hillbilly Rocks : Hillbilly Rock 1
By: Ken Cangi When: Nov 3, 2016

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Comments: Watch out for the thick poison ivy and kicking rocks down the steep, loose approach onto the street.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Hillbilly Rocks : Hillbilly Rock 1 : I Reckon (5.12a)
By: Ken Cangi When: Oct 28, 2016

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Comments: Hard for the grade.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Hillbilly Rocks : Hillbilly Rock 1 : Hoo-doggy (5.8)
By: Ken Cangi When: Oct 5, 2016

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Comments: This warm-up is the best route at the crag. Reminded me a little of Calypso in Eldo.


Location: California : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Yosemite Valley Bouldering : Camp 4 Boulders : ... : Photo
By: Ken Cangi When: Aug 10, 2016

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Comments: Everyone sandbags in their own backyard. It's what we do. Good, clean fun.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Peanuts Walls : Upper Peanuts : Advanced Rockcraft (5.12b)
By: Ken Cangi When: Aug 10, 2016

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Comments: I lead this route on that bashie, many years ago, and remember thinking, don't fall on that thing.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon : First Tier : Catch and Release (5.12b/c)
By: Ken Cangi When: Aug 7, 2016

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Comments: I've climbed and established a fair amount of routes with Bob. He is prolific and puts up fun routes, although he is not big on doing a lot of cleaning. I've done several of his routes and found easier sequences which were only revealed after either brushing the pitches up or feeling around in the lichen for easier sequences.

I'm not a fan of rating routes on contrived sequences when easier ones are within reach, not that I think that&... more >>


Location: Colorado : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Anarchy Wall : Question Authority (5.12a)
By: Ken Cangi When: May 22, 2016

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Comments: Gets in your face for a second.


Location: Colorado : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Zone of Silence : Effigy for Silent King (5.12d)
By: Ken Cangi When: Dec 27, 2015

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Comments: I think this is the pitch I watched Lynn onsight, last time I was down there. Nice looking line.


Location: North America : Canada : Quebec : Estrie - Eastern Townships ... : Mount Orford (Pic aux Corbe... : ... : Varech (5.11a)
By: Ken Cangi When: Dec 14, 2015

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Comments: Sparse gear, but fun OS lead. The first route I did at Orford. Looking forward to sampling the harder lines on the far right sector.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : Surprising Crag : ... : Mercy Drilling (5.12a)
By: Ken Cangi When: Dec 5, 2015

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Comments: Those monos are all over the place. Mark has earned more respect than to be accused of manufacturing holds by people who probably don't even know him. I've known him for decades, and if he says he did not drill that pocket, I have no doubt in that he didn't. Accusing someone like Mark, without sufficient evidence and whose route-development résumé speaks for itself, is bad form.

If this bolted route isn't your style, there's always RP or Not to Be, in Eldo. It's barely 12a, and you should ha... more >>


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : The Color of Pomegranates (5.12c R)
By: Ken Cangi When: Nov 5, 2015

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Comments: How hard is the R-section, and are the bolts any good?


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - L of Center Route : Aerospace (5.11c)
By: Ken Cangi When: Nov 1, 2015

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Comments: Bob is correct in that retrobolting established, serious routes is an affront to many who have successfully accepted the challenge. I am one of those folks. Retrobolting routes like Perilous Journey and Clear The Deck would be offensive to me.

That said, I have a question and a comment about the bolts on Aerospace. Was the route TR-rehearsed and then bolted and led? If so, then anyone leading the route onsight has done it in purer style than the first ascensionist, negating the relevancy of di... more >>


Location: California : Yosemite National Park : Lower Merced River Canyon : 12 - Wildcat Falls & Above ... : Tales of Power (5.12b) : Photo
By: Ken Cangi When: Oct 3, 2015

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Comments:
Rock Climbing Photo: No more rope.
No more rope.



Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Frisky Cliff : Sinopia (5.13a) : Photo
By: Ken Cangi When: Oct 1, 2015

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Comments: Thanks for the killer photo, Drake!


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Mountain Rose : Steel Pulse (5.11c)
By: Ken Cangi When: Sep 26, 2015

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Comments: Better warm up for Frisky than the 10c, and just as fun. I'd give it 3 stars if it weren't for all the friable holds.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Frisky Cliff : Sinopia (5.13a) : Photo
By: Ken Cangi When: Sep 13, 2015

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Comments: Team effort.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Oceanic Wall : Challenges of Leisure aka W... (5.13a) : Photo
By: Ken Cangi When: Sep 7, 2015

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Comments: Is it harder, easier, or about the same?


Location: California : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan : The Nose (5.9 C2)
By: Ken Cangi When: Aug 27, 2015

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Comments: Odd that The Nose is a free climb with several free ascents and is listed here as an aid route. Out of respect for Lynn's enormous effort to free the route, and also for those who have freed it since, The Nose should be recorded here as what it is (5.14a). It is no longer an aid route, regardless of how many people pull on the gear to get up it.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : ... : Photo
By: Ken Cangi When: Aug 14, 2015

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Comments: Nice upgrade.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : ... : Photo
By: Ken Cangi When: Aug 14, 2015

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Comments: Is this near the side rail on the first pitch?


Location: Ken Cangi : Home Board 2015 : Photo
By: Ken Cangi When: Jul 20, 2015

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Comments:



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