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Member Since: Feb 21, 2011
Last Visit: 1 day ago
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Point Rank: # 8,742
Total Points: 55

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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3



Where has Zane Dordai been climbing?










Contributions


All 190 | Routes 2 | Areas | Approach Trails | Photos 7 | Page Improvements | Comments 49 | Posts 33 | Stars 71 | Ratings 28
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Utah > Triassic > Land of a Thousand Boulders > Thud (V5)
By: Zane Dordai When: Jan 14, 2018

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Comments: comparing this to any standard v5 in the country is pretty much a joke. at least a grade harder, almost certainly two.For continuity in this area in particular, it is harder than busted up, out of the comfort zone, ronald mc donald and me, etc....

but it's really really good! tread lightly on the final moves though and if there has been snow melt that jug probably has the structural integrity of a cardboard box


Location: Utah > Joe's Valley > Left Fork > 7 Mile Marker > Inagada Davita (V6)
By: Zane Dordai When: Jan 3, 2018

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Comments: ben put this problem up at v7 or v8. some folks thought it was way softer, it feels harder than wills, chips, and planet for me, so v7 seems fair and holds in line with ben's suggestion. thanks for putting it up K. Forgot to add that the crux crimp does flex a bit and should stay solid but definitely collects moisture behind itself...if the ground is at all damp just past the drip line of the lip, please give it some time!


Location: Utah > Joe's Valley > Left Fork > Eden > Heat Wall > Bring the Heatwole (V7)
By: Zane Dordai When: Jan 3, 2018

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Comments: kneebar doesnt change the grade and is so obvious it's actually hard to avoid


Location: Pennsylvania > Southeastern Lowlands > Haycock Mountain (Nockamixo... > Caves Trail > The Caves > The Balrog (V6+)
By: Zane Dordai When: Dec 27, 2017

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Comments: I broke this thing, my bad. I think it was in the winter of 2013. I was trying to do the last move somewhat static and back splatted when I blew the hold off the wall. I am a pretty small dude so it was definitely a time bomb either way. glad to see it forced a way cooler move.


Location: Pennsylvania > Southeastern Lowlands > Haycock Mountain (Nockamixo... > Caves Trail > The Caves > L'angle (V2)
By: Zane Dordai When: Dec 27, 2017

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Comments: I truly believe this is one of the best climbs of any grade in the country. Way harder than it looks and amazing in how it comes together. I think 3 is fair and still plenty sandbagged to keep with the general trend of the area.


Location: Pennsylvania > Southeastern Lowlands > Haycock Mountain (Nockamixo... > The Outliers
By: Zane Dordai When: Dec 27, 2017

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Comments: Plan on getting lost


Location: Pennsylvania > Southeastern Lowlands > Haycock Mountain (Nockamixo... > The Glass Wall > Pete's Butt Swing (V3-)
By: Zane Dordai When: Dec 26, 2017

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Comments: Not V2, sandbagging is a sport out here


Location: Pennsylvania > Southeastern Lowlands > Haycock Mountain (Nockamixo... > The Glass Wall > Funky Butt Love (V4)
By: Zane Dordai When: Dec 26, 2017

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Comments: I preferred the sit start to this one, adds a really cool accuracy move getting out to the seam (felt like the hardest move on the climb to me)


Location: Pennsylvania > Southeastern Lowlands > Haycock Mountain (Nockamixo... > The Glass Wall > Funky Butt Flies (V5+)
By: Zane Dordai When: Dec 26, 2017

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Comments: This was how I started funky butt love originally thinking it was the most logical line. A great way to add to the challenge if you're looking for a slightly tougher one.


Location: Utah > Price Canyon > Baby's Got Biceps Boulder > The Spider (V2-3)
By: Zane Dordai When: Dec 23, 2017

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Comments: yeah seemed bunchy and height dependent for me, 6 from the sit for my height, seems kinda arbitrary to stand start it, I wouldn't see a logical place to do so


Location: Utah > Joe's Valley > New Joe's > Tang Boulder > Tang (V6)
By: Zane Dordai When: Dec 14, 2017

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Comments: Not v5, this is harder than wills, chips, planet. felt about the same as heatwole or blue lambo to me, maybe even a bit harder. the right hand crimp apparently has broken and there also used to be a very good left hand to get you a bit closer to the long rail feature. It is absolutely amazing though, can't believe it isn't done more often, especially considering how close to the road it is.


Location: Utah > Saint George > Utah Hills > Woodbury Road Crags > Kelly's Rock > K-8 (5.11b)
By: Zane Dordai When: Jan 23, 2017

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Comments: I totally agree with steve. Sharp, awkward crux, split up by many no hands rests.

There is a very definitive crux. There are some other tricky moves, but I literally felt as if this climbs grade boiled down to whether or not you could pull the crux move(s).

I kinda felt like this one was a big joke too. "Tell them its the most classic, they'll all come to this one crag with just a handful of routes..."


Location: New Hampshire > *Rumney > *Rumney Bouldering > Black Jack Boulders > Spragueasorus Boulder (aka ... > Nowhere Man (V7)
By: Zane Dordai When: Aug 28, 2014

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Comments: this problem is incredible! great crimps and the landing is not bad. for a moment there I wished the crimps on this wall were up on the sport routes up the hill...

the moves after the big move are not so bad. I cleaned some more holds (and feet) out left and the line still finishes direct, there is just no scary committing move to the top anymore. all static.

I definitely disagree with this problem being sketchy or having a "bad landing". after falling on the crux move a couple times with very... more >>


Location: Connecticut > Eastern Coastal Slope > Chatfield Hollow Main Wall > Photo
By: Zane Dordai When: Feb 7, 2014

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Comments: photo cred nate labiniec, of course


Location: New York > The Gunks > Peterskill Bouldering > Quarantine Area & Outbreak ... > The Classic One (V5)
By: Zane Dordai When: Dec 16, 2013

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Comments: Hey Mo,

Yeah, The Hop (V7) as it is called is also an excellent line. There is another line on this boulder that I think is rarely done that also has some fantastic moves. It starts down and t the left of the standing start for the classic one. Start sitting in two horizontal jug shelves and continue straight up from there doing a few tough crimp moves. I remember there being some huge feet and very small crimps. Traverse the seam right for a few feet and finish on the classic one. When I was t... more >>


Location: New Hampshire > *Rumney > Apocalypse Walls > Apocalypse Later (5.11d)
By: Zane Dordai When: Sep 5, 2013

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Comments: Savage and fantastic indeed. Definitely contains some of the smallest holds ive grabbed at the top of a climb this grade. One of my favorite climbs anywhere.


Location: Pennsylvania > Southeastern Lowlands > Haycock Mountain (Nockamixo... > Caves Trail > Mo Mangoes > Mo Mangos (V7)
By: Zane Dordai When: Sep 4, 2013

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Comments: this problem is always wet. literally, always. i have gone after 4 days of no rain (which is rare enough on the east coast) and the start hold was still damp. my friend and I are going to clean out the crack that holds dirt and detritus. with nothing to hold moisture, the boulder should have some dry days and will therefore be one of the best in the area...right now i'd give it 1 star just due to the fact that I've never been able to try it dry.


Location: Colorado > Canon City > Shelf Road > The Gym > Crystal (5.11b)
By: Zane Dordai When: Sep 2, 2013

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Comments: This climb became my favorite warmup for the harder 12s due to its consistent nature on all decent holds. Nothing too sharp either. Last I remember the bolts were angle iron and a little sketchy (had a friend take some big whips on them one time though, so they seem to be okay), but everything else about this climb is sweet.


Location: New Hampshire > *Rumney > The Meadows > No Money Down (Left) > Student Loan (5.11b)
By: Zane Dordai When: Aug 22, 2013

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Comments: Low stars because it's 10-15 feet of climbing, often wet, and when not wet very dirty. I cleaned it up but it will no doubt be dirty again by now. Definitely a few fun moves in the roof, but some awkward and scrunchy ones for me as well. Worth doing though if you're in the area and want something like no money down with some harder moves.


Location: New Hampshire > *Rumney > The Prudential > Horned Behavior (5.12b)
By: Zane Dordai When: Aug 22, 2013

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Comments: good to hear you're trying it mike! good luck man! I think its all about getting to that last move with a little juice...I also found hitting the hold in a worse position and then bumping to the meat wrap worked better for me. I've got a week off in october and i'm fairly certain i'll be back up in Rumney then. For now...the draws are up until mid October or until some sorry bastard comes along and takes em. Keep in mind you'll need 2 more plus anchors (or just stick clip the second, might be go... more >>


Location: Connecticut > Eastern Coastal Slope > Chatfield Hollow Main Wall > The Cold Vein (5.12d)
By: Zane Dordai When: Aug 11, 2013

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Comments: 4 star line, and feels pretty hard for this grade either way. probably 13a if youre under 5'8 or so. I am around 5'10 with a -2 ape index and can BARELY reach the crux hold in full lock off. Reachy moves on some of the coolest holds I have grabbed. This route reminds me of Kundalini in Rumney but without a kneebar in the crux.


Location: New Hampshire > *Rumney > The Prudential > Horned Behavior (5.12b)
By: Zane Dordai When: Aug 8, 2013

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Comments: Some vague beta in here:In my opinion Mark, the first section is very pumpy but probably factors mostly out of the overall grade due to the sit down. I do agree, there are some very reachy moves in there that would make it quite a good deal harder if you were shorter. The continuous nature of the upper section with the tough last clip and huge move to the sidepull meatwrap thing seemed really low percentage to me. I had to hit the hold just right with my palm and I missed it quite a few t... more >>


Location: New Hampshire > *Rumney > The Prudential > Machine Head (5.11d)
By: Zane Dordai When: Aug 5, 2013

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Comments: classic rig. at least as hard as pulse, and in my opinion as hard as many of the 12a's I have done. either the hardest 11d ever or a soft 12a...but either way one of Rumney's best short climbs. another great non-awkward mantle finish.

beta spoiler: the dihedral definitely contained the hardest moves on the route, but the pump hits you on the mantle.


Location: New Hampshire > *Rumney > The Prudential > Horned Behavior (5.12b)
By: Zane Dordai When: Aug 5, 2013

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Comments: This climb is 12c (felt almost as hard as aquarius both with good beta) if we are keeping in line with traditional Rumney grades. I left my draws on this and hurt my shoulder. I've left the area and won't be back until the end of September or so. If I'm not back by then, Tom (armstrong) generously offered to clean them off.

Until then, all but the first draw and the first draw above the break are hung (first needs to be stick clipped and the one after the break is easy to hang/clean). I also cl... more >>


Location: New Hampshire > *Rumney > Pulse Wall > Pulse (5.11d) > Photo
By: Zane Dordai When: Jul 28, 2013

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Comments: I tried both betas for this move and the left way is WAY easier (for me and both of my climbing partners, all around 5'10), and in my opinion a bit less grovely/cooler. Still a great route either way, but I think the left way makes it as close to 4 stars as a 30 ft route can get...


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