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Member Since: Jan 1, 2002
Last Visit: Dec 15, 2013
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Point Rank: # 3,082
Total Points: 245

6 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3

Where has XOG been climbing?


All 155 | Routes 9 | Areas 3 | Approach Trails | Photos 22 | Page Improvements | Comments 70 | Posts 22 | Stars 24 | Ratings 5
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Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Rock Climbing Photo: Moving up to the 4th bolt. Crux monodoigt, definit...

Moving up to the 4th bolt. Crux monodoigt, definitely one of the best holds in the universe, showing at the bottom right next to the 1st bolt.

Colorado > Flatirons > ... > Discipline (5.12b)

Feb 21, 2005

Rock Climbing Photo: PB takes its toll.

PB takes its toll.

Colorado > Flatirons > ... > Power Bulge (5.12c)

Feb 21, 2005

Rock Climbing Photo: Ted flashing Granite Beach.

Ted flashing Granite Beach.

Colorado > Lyons > ... > Granite Beach (5.12a)

Jan 24, 2005

Rock Climbing Photo: Dan Levison on the crux of HOD; photo by Mr. Greg ...

Dan Levison on the crux of HOD; photo by Mr. Greg Hill, aka 597.

Colorado > Boulder Canyon > ... > Heart of Darkness (5.13)

Jan 13, 2005

Rock Climbing Photo: Charles leading Guenese.

Charles leading Guenese.

Colorado > Eldorado Canyon SP > ... > Guenese (5.11a)

May 13, 2003

Rock Climbing Photo: At the top of p 4 (or as we did it, p 2 of two lon...

At the top of p 4 (or as we did it, p 2 of two long pitches). Taken by Greg Hill.

Colorado > Eldorado Canyon SP > ... > The Bulge (5.7 R)

May 13, 2003

Rock Climbing Photo: Above p1.

Above p1.

Colorado > Flatirons > ... > East Face/Dinosaur Rock (5.4)

Feb 16, 2003

Rock Climbing Photo: Jan and Bryan at the base of Divination (sorry, it...

Jan and Bryan at the base of Divination (sorry, it's not really an action photo). Taken by Greg Hill.

Colorado > Boulder > ... > Divination (5.11b)

Feb 4, 2003

Rock Climbing Photo: Jan on lower 5.10 section of Divination (taken by ...

Jan on lower 5.10 section of Divination (taken by Greg Hill).

Colorado > Boulder > ... > Divination (5.11b)

Feb 4, 2003

Contributed Comments


Location: Wyoming > Wind River Range > Cirque of the Towers > Wolfs Head > East Ridge (5.6) > Photo
By: XOG When: Sep 26, 2011

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Comments: Beautiful photo.

Location: Colorado > Estes Park Valley > Lumpy Ridge > Batman Rock > Clowntime is Over (5.9+)
By: XOG When: Apr 27, 2011

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Comments: When I did this, pulling the roof was fine, but I definitely remember the 20' runout above. It was really windy and I kept going up and downclimbing and not wanting to commit, probably for well over half an hour. When I finally did the moves and brought my second up, he told me that with my see sawing the rope my piece below the roof (the only piece) had come out! The belay wasn't that great, so a factor two would have probably have been lethal.

Location: Colorado > Alpine Rock > RMNP - Rock > Long's Peak > Lower East Face > Fields' Chimney (summer)
By: XOG When: Jul 1, 2010

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Comments: Yep, me too. Exactly the same experience in mid '90s (the catch phrase pre-dawn enthusiasm rings particularly true), except that we retreated from partway up and then climbed the N. Chimney. Lost a lot of time, and the pre-dawn enthusiasm was well sapped by the time we reached Broadway....

Location: Europe > France > Fontainebleau
By: XOG When: Jun 20, 2010

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Comments: Blanc (white) is the easiest (pour les enfants, as above), but it is also the hardest, harder than black. How French to make it circular .... Also, there are at least a couple of saumon (salmon) circuits, which is in between blue and red. Also, orange usually are longer, often more highball, sometimes with long traverses, downclimbs, etc. A local told me that they are some of the older ones back from the days when Fontainebleau bouldering was primarily a way to get in shape for alpine mountainee... more >>

Location: Colorado > Alpine Rock > San Juans > The Grenadiers > Vestal Peak > Wham Ridge (5.4 R)
By: XOG When: Jul 30, 2009

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Comments: Encountered some scary rockfall on the unstable screefield at the end of the descent. It's hard to imagine not sending a lot of large, loose stuff down, no matter how careful you are.

Does anyone have any experience with hugging the base of the cliff for this part of the descent? Our afterthought was that that might be a better way to go.

Apart from this part of the descent, fantastic climb. The view from the top is extraordinary.

Location: Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > The West Ridge > West Ridge - part D - Xanad... > Srinagar (5.7)
By: XOG When: Nov 9, 2008

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Comments: I agree with the others but as an aside to the 'great for a new leader' comments, there is a lot of loose rock, some of it pretty big, on the 20' or so scramble to the tree that is the only real anchor possibility after exiting the dihedral.

Location: Colorado > Boulder > Flatirons > Central > Skunk Canyon > ... > Angel's Way (5.2)
By: XOG When: Nov 4, 2007

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Comments: A long time favorite, I always thought it was a little surreal, but the description of it being 100 years west of Satan's Slab sure drives the concept home! Hang a left at the 3rd star past midnight and keep going?

Location: Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > The West Ridge > West Ridge - part E - top t... > Bushwack Crack (5.8+ PG13)
By: XOG When: Oct 1, 2007

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Comments: The cat-claw flake is the best belay-lounger in Eldo!! It needs something so you can adjust the angle though, depending on where the sun is that can be sooo annoying...

This is an underrated pitch quality-wise it is actually very good.

Agree that it is the best set-up for LATM.

Location: Colorado > Boulder > Flagstaff > Tree Slab
By: XOG When: Mar 4, 2007

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Comments: I was up there today and someone has spray painted in 1' tall green letters just to the left of tree slab traverse. One more in a long series of vandalisms at Flagstaff - this one of the more damaging I've seen.

Location: Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > The West Ridge > West Ridge - part D - Xanad... > Kashmir (5.11b)
By: XOG When: Nov 23, 2006

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Comments: Curious about the FA attribution because in my 80s guidebook (Rossiter) it says this is a Charlie Fowler route?

Big difference going straight up using only the thin cracks versus moving in from the left up higher. Although contrived, several high quality hard moves in a short length, and a good one to do if all the popular climbs you hiked up for are taken, no waiting lines on this one!

The commitment factor and exposure are high though. Make sure to bring your headlamp.

Location: Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Redgarden Wall > Redgarden - Tower One > Grand Giraffe (5.10a)
By: XOG When: Sep 4, 2006

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Comments: Don't overlook upper Grand Giraffe above the Upper Ramp. The climbing is much easier but very fun, and the routefinding is complicated with funky gear. The rock is solid although covered with lichen. Also, on the last pitch it is really nice to climb up and right out of the belay in a dihedral that is much harder looking than it is, instead of up and left according to the route description. Above is one of the nicest easy pitches on hueco jugs imaginable.

Location: Colorado > Boulder > Upper Dream Canyon > Dream Dome > Stained Glass (5.11b)
By: XOG When: Aug 7, 2006

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Comments: Careful of loose rock at the base of the pitch 2 roof. Two toaster+ sized blocks were pulled off from here last weekend, hitting close to where I was at the pitch 1 belay and ending up near the base of Wrinkles in Time - where fortunately no one was at the time. Also, the anchor situation seems strange for routes starting from this gully - no anchors at the start of any of the routes even though ~40' off the deck, so some trad gear is helpful to anchor the belayer before the 1st bolt is clipped.... more >>

Location: Colorado > Alpine Rock > Indian Peaks > Lone Eagle Peak > North Face (5.7)
By: XOG When: Jul 6, 2006

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Comments: Great route. Should probably be done in Lederhosen and hob-nailed boots, if you have them. Only route I've ever been on where you get to belay in a meadow of columbines in full bloom. Apart from 3 or 4 clean pitches, climbing itself is mostly so-so, which in no way detracts from the route, which is why I give it 4 stars anyway. Just make sure you're expecting more of a mountaineering experience and less of a clean technical climbing experience and maybe you'll agree with my rating. Or not. Anywa... more >>

Location: Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Redgarden Wall > Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... > Swanson Arete (5.5)
By: XOG When: May 8, 2006

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Comments: Liked the route immensely. We did it in 3 pitches from the ground, climbing near the "ancient variation" to the left of the arete for a p2 that started at the top of G. Zot and ended 40' above the tree at a beautiful flat triangular belay seat with stunning views all around. A 70m rope probably helped although 60m might reach. Descent was fine rapping off to the NE and then wandering N. to reach the notch for descending back down U. Redgarden. Don't think it took more than 1/2 hour to get back t... more >>

Location: Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > The West Ridge > West Ridge - part C - Pony ... > Chick on the Side (5.10b/c)
By: XOG When: Apr 17, 2006

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Comments: I tried to figure out a way to statically reach the jug below the pin right at the start and couldn't figure out a way to do it other than to dyno. Apart from the battle with the tree I liked it better to climb out the dihedral the whole way instead of escaping right. Very deceptive as it certainly did not look to me like the opening sequence would be the crux. I really enjoyed this route. If linked with Handcracker would it be the longest continuous climb on the W. Ridge?

Location: Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > The West Ridge > West Ridge - part D - Xanad... > Terminal Velocity (5.11b/c)
By: XOG When: Apr 17, 2006

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Comments: I just tried this (on tr) and in terms of pure difficulty of climbing found the upper section to be much more difficult than the lower section. I had a really hard time using the stems to gain enough reach to get to the good finger lock. Really fun climbing throughout the entire climb though.

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