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Member Since: Nov 5, 2008
Last Visit: Dec 29, 2016
Contact wizard

Point Rank: # 8,555
Total Points: 54

16 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3

Where has wizard been climbing?


All 23 | Routes 2 | Areas | Photos 6 | Page Improvements | Comments 4 | Posts 3 | Stars 6 | Ratings 2

Contributed Comments


Location: California : Inland Empire : Riverside Quarry : (g) Slander Sector : Uncle Ho (5.10b)
By: wizard When: Dec 29, 2016

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Comments: Route is equipped with Fixe 12mm Triplex bolts, which have a tendency to have spinning hangers because of the design, even when the bolt is properly tightened. To fix the hanger, need to loosen the bolt, hammer the bolt in more, then tighten the bolt to 25 ft-lbs (as tight as possible with a short wrench, moderately tight with a mid-size wrench). I'll try to get to them some time soon.

Location: California : Inland Empire : Riverside Quarry : (c) Left of the Roof : Culture Shock (5.11c)
By: wizard When: Nov 26, 2015

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Comments: Not sure when I'll get to fixing this. Have a lot of other projects keeping me busy. If anyone wants to help, message me. Is the red tag on the first bolt not there anymore?

Location: California : Inland Empire : Riverside Quarry : (f) Torture Machine Area : Minimizer (5.10b)
By: wizard When: Mar 23, 2013

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Comments: Minimizer now has its own anchors instead of sharing them with Whammy. It is much higher up about half way up on Maximizer making for a nice moderately long route about 23m. Still 10b. It's 11 bolts to double chain draw anchors. Maximizer 11d is 4 more bolts to double chain anchors.

Location: California : Inland Empire : Riverside Quarry : (a) Slab City : Slab City (Right) : Utopia (5.10b/c)
By: wizard When: Mar 29, 2012

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Comments: Loved this route. Only gets 3 stars in the guidebook. I though it was 5 stars. Trad style. In fact you might be able to lead it on gear. Beta spoiler: near the top, don't go right into the corner where there is a chalked hold. Stay on the face otherwise you'll miss a great crux move.