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Member Since: Nov 5, 2008
Last Visit: Dec 29, 2016
Contact wizard

Point Rank: # 6,689
Total Points: 45

16 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



Where has wizard been climbing?










Contributions


All 23 | Routes 2 | Areas | Photos 6 | Page Improvements | Comments 4 | Posts 3 | Stars 6 | Ratings 2

Contributed Routes

Name Rating Type Location Date

Sweetie (FA)

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a (22)

Sport, 1 pitch, 70'

California : Inland Empire : ... : (g) Slander Sector

Jan 19, 2014

Uncle Ho (FA)

5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b (41)

Sport, 1 pitch, 100'

California : Inland Empire : ... : (g) Slander Sector

Jan 12, 2014

Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Rock Climbing Photo: Slab City before

Slab City before

Forums : Southern California : ... : Post

Dec 29, 2016

Rock Climbing Photo: Hayley on the overhanging face of Uncle Ho

Hayley on the overhanging face of Uncle Ho

California : Inland Empire : ... : Uncle Ho (5.10b)

Jan 31, 2014

Rock Climbing Photo: Jan clipping the crux bolt at the roof on Uncle Ho...

Jan clipping the crux bolt at the roof on Uncle Ho.

California : Inland Empire : ... : Uncle Ho (5.10b)

Jan 31, 2014

Rock Climbing Photo: Jan on Uncle Ho

Jan on Uncle Ho

California : Inland Empire : ... : Uncle Ho (5.10b)

Jan 31, 2014

Rock Climbing Photo: Hayley at the steep crux of Uncle Ho.

Hayley at the steep crux of Uncle Ho.

California : Inland Empire : ... : Uncle Ho (5.10b)

Jan 31, 2014

Rock Climbing Photo: Hayley below the crux on Sweetie

Hayley below the crux on Sweetie

California : Inland Empire : ... : Sweetie (5.9)

Jan 31, 2014

Contributed Comments

 

Location: California : Inland Empire : Riverside Quarry : (g) Slander Sector : Uncle Ho (5.10b)
By: wizard When: Dec 29, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Route is equipped with Fixe 12mm Triplex bolts, which have a tendency to have spinning hangers because of the design, even when the bolt is properly tightened. To fix the hanger, need to loosen the bolt, hammer the bolt in more, then tighten the bolt to 25 ft-lbs (as tight as possible with a short wrench, moderately tight with a mid-size wrench). I'll try to get to them some time soon.


Location: California : Inland Empire : Riverside Quarry : (c) Left of the Roof : Culture Shock (5.11c)
By: wizard When: Nov 26, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Not sure when I'll get to fixing this. Have a lot of other projects keeping me busy. If anyone wants to help, message me. Is the red tag on the first bolt not there anymore?


Location: California : Inland Empire : Riverside Quarry : (f) Torture Machine Area : Minimizer (5.10b)
By: wizard When: Mar 23, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Minimizer now has its own anchors instead of sharing them with Whammy. It is much higher up about half way up on Maximizer making for a nice moderately long route about 23m. Still 10b. It's 11 bolts to double chain draw anchors. Maximizer 11d is 4 more bolts to double chain anchors.


Location: California : Inland Empire : Riverside Quarry : (a) Slab City : Slab City (Right) : Utopia (5.10b/c)
By: wizard When: Mar 29, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Loved this route. Only gets 3 stars in the guidebook. I though it was 5 stars. Trad style. In fact you might be able to lead it on gear. Beta spoiler: near the top, don't go right into the corner where there is a chalked hold. Stay on the face otherwise you'll miss a great crux move.


Contributed Forum Posts

Topic Title Forum Author Date
re: Significant amount of rockfall at Riverside QuarrySouthern CaliforniawizardDec 29, 2016
Riverside Quarry accidentInjuries and AccidentswizardMar 23, 2014
Riverside Quarry: Lost HammerLost and FoundwizardDec 2, 2013

Contributed Stars

Name Quality Location

Utopia 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

California : Inland Empire : ... : Slab City (Right)

Uncle Ho 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

California : Inland Empire : ... : (g) Slander Sector

Trundle Trophy 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

California : Inland Empire : ... : (c) Left of the Roof

Flesh and Blood 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

California : Inland Empire : ... : (c) Left of the Roof

Minimizer 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

California : Inland Empire : ... : (f) Torture Machine Area

Sweetie 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

California : Inland Empire : ... : (g) Slander Sector

Contributed Ratings

Name Established Rating Suggested Rating Location

Minimizer

5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

California : Inland Empire : ... : (f) Torture Machine Area

Utopia

5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

California : Inland Empire : ... : Slab City (Right)