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Member Since: Dec 8, 2010
Last Visit: May 16, 2017
Contact Wilson On The Drums

Point Rank: # 839
Total Points: 845

16 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



Where has Wilson On The Drums been climbing?










Wilson On The Drums

 
Contributions

Contributions


All 906 | Routes 36 | Areas 9 | Photos 87 | Page Improvements | Comments 152 | Posts 184 | Stars 242 | Ratings 196
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: South Dakota : The Needles Of Rushmore : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : Emancipation : White House Wall : ... : Photo
By: Wilson On The Drums When: Apr 16, 2017

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Comments: for beta purposes this is "slant crack" which is a 5.6 variation to the first pitch of GGTW.


Location: South Dakota : The Needles Of Rushmore : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : Monster : Kindergarten Rock : Teachers Pet (5.9-)
By: Wilson On The Drums When: Mar 20, 2017

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Comments: agree with description. great route that throws a big punch of slab and crystal pinching variety. Now that I'm in the gym mostly this would be a heady lead to come back to and I'm glad I got to follow on it.


Location: South Dakota : Custer State Park : Sylvan Lake : Middle Earth : Far Downs : Wet Elf (5.7 PG13)
By: Wilson On The Drums When: Mar 7, 2017

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Comments: This is most likely "Tale/Spine of Smaug" and most likely not a FA. It's hard to tell a lot of times since most of these routes were put up in the 80s and haven't seen much traffic over the years...


Location: South Dakota : The Needles Of Rushmore : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : Emancipation : The Liberty Bell : President Donald Skunk (5.8)
By: Wilson On The Drums When: Nov 22, 2016

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Comments: Take it with a grain of salt, but in an area named Emancipation Rock Formation with routes like "political division" and "smear campaign," I think the aforementioned name is more than appropriate. Perhaps you're just behind the times...



Location: South Dakota : The Needles Of Rushmore : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : South Seas : Borneo : Solitaire (5.7)
By: Wilson On The Drums When: Aug 15, 2016

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Comments: a little late but this route is best followed. it takes a hard right hand traverse at the top and would be very difficult and unsafe to clean on the way down.


Location: South Dakota : Custer State Park : Cathedral Spires : Eyetooth : Eyetooth (5.8) : Photo
By: Wilson On The Drums When: Jul 19, 2016

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Comments: agreed, from what I've looked into this is the 5.8 route. the short crack to the left of the red line on the second pitch of the picture is a 10- variation.


Location: Minnesota : Plymouth, Endless Wall Trav...
By: Wilson On The Drums When: Jul 4, 2016

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Comments: Not an FA, but thanks for posting. How does the MN community feel about posting up "buildering"? I've been documenting a few places that have some serious potential in MPS and St Paul...


Location: South Dakota : Spearfish Canyon : Sunshine : Land of the Shorties : Ghetto Toes (5.6)
By: Wilson On The Drums When: Jun 20, 2016

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Comments: BBQ I'd be mad too. I spend a lot of time prowling mp and climbing and I have noticed on a few occasions where they have plagiarized you intently. They skate through by referee to"a local said..." Tell ya what though, of the in-print magazines still in circulation I swear every time I open climbing I'm happy to see a SD shout out.


Location: South Dakota : Custer State Park : Sylvan Lake : Outlets : Youbet Jorasses : Inner Course (5.4)
By: Wilson On The Drums When: Mar 21, 2016

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Comments: No gear needed for this route. One long sling helps up top but the route is entirely on bolts. Perfect intro for the area.


Location: South Dakota : The Needles Of Rushmore : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : Monster : Shakers : ... : Photo
By: Wilson On The Drums When: Mar 18, 2016

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Comments: This is a Dave Rone route called Joint Effort. with an early and optional crux the route goes at either 5.8/5.10-. See the comments for Pointy Little Devil.


Location: South Dakota : Rapid City Area : Rock Maze : Photo
By: Wilson On The Drums When: Jan 26, 2016

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Comments: mountainproject.com/v/10693735...


Location: South Dakota : Rapid City Area : Rock Maze : Photo
By: Wilson On The Drums When: Jan 26, 2016

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Comments: A fun variation is to sit start on the far right and then traverse left into the slanting rail/crack/seam thing near the left of this picture.


Location: Minnesota : Louisville Swamp Boulder (S... : Pocket of Pain (sit start v... (V3-4)
By: Wilson On The Drums When: Nov 10, 2015

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Comments: ^ that's the "direct" line. i think its V1 in the guidebook but V2 (or harder) felt appropriate.


Location: Wisconsin : Interstate State Park : Cave Boulders : Noodle Boulder - Corner Dir... (V4) : Photo
By: Wilson On The Drums When: Nov 9, 2015

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Comments: Note: the sit start is not visible. All the circles represent Left hands. Right hand crimp is around the corner of the arete.


Location: Minnesota : Tettegouche SP (North Shore... : Shovel Point : Dance of the Sugar-Plump Fa... (5.8)
By: Wilson On The Drums When: Oct 27, 2015

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Comments: Is this route leadable on modern gear (micronuts/cams, ballnuts, etc) at a reasonably safe Pg-13 level?


Location: South Dakota : Custer State Park : Sylvan Lake : Middle Earth : Far Downs : Left Wing of Smaug (5.8)
By: Wilson On The Drums When: Oct 9, 2015

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Comments: wow thank you for the very thoughtful and informative response. i've really wanted to get active in the hills, but being as is in Minnesota I'm not able to do so. I'll have to take a look at it next time I'm out in CSP and hope I see that someone has already made the contribution (of adding a few thoughtful bolts, vs the ability to run out 5.8 w/ one micronut for 60ft... imo)


Location: South Dakota : Custer State Park : Sylvan Lake : Middle Earth : Far Downs : Left Wing of Smaug (5.8)
By: Wilson On The Drums When: Oct 6, 2015

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Comments: has anyone tried the line going straight to the chains form the last bolt going slightly left, instead of heading up into the chimney?


Location: Minnesota : Interstate SP (Taylors Fall... : Keyhole Area : Keyhole direct direct (5.11a)
By: Wilson On The Drums When: Sep 29, 2015

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Comments: Does anyone know what this line goes at if you use the arete for a single move (maybe two) to bypass the crux face move? Maybe low/mid 5.10?


Location: Wisconsin : Interstate State Park : Cave Boulders : Big Boy (V2 PG13)
By: Wilson On The Drums When: Sep 20, 2015

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Comments: easily done as a TR with 30ft webbing. save your ankles and do it this way.


Location: South Dakota : The Needles Of Rushmore : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : South Seas : Pronghorn : Trophy (5.9)
By: Wilson On The Drums When: Sep 16, 2015

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Comments: You are correct.


Location: South Dakota : Rapid City Area : Rock Maze : Carrier Boulder : Spic 'n Span - Spic (V0-1) : Photo
By: Wilson On The Drums When: Sep 11, 2015

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Comments: FYI this arete is really fun and easy. must do if you're wandering around those parts.


Location: Minnesota : Barn Bluff (Red Wing)
By: Wilson On The Drums When: Jul 27, 2015

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Comments: Next time you come to Red Wing (or Taylors for that matter) don't forget to bring a hammock and 3 or 4 ropes. That way you can set up a few 2 hour top-ropes for all of you friends to get their climbing skills dialed in while they run laps on it. Disregard anyone that asks multiple times to get on the route. I mean hey, you have a hammock and a TR setup, why should you have to move on? Get comfy.


Location: South Dakota : The Needles Of Rushmore : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : South Seas : Shipyard Rock : Not So Sweet (5.8)
By: Wilson On The Drums When: Jul 11, 2015

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Comments: Dunno. i didn't have any big gear, which is what i needed to feel safe. i backed down and never finished the route.


Location: South Dakota : The Needles Of Rushmore : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : South Seas : Shipyard Rock : Not So Sweet (5.8)
By: Wilson On The Drums When: Jul 10, 2015

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Comments: Not 5.6. I backed down on this climb for not having any big gear. It was really awkward and seemed really committing without some big cams.


Location: South Dakota : Custer State Park : Sylvan Lake : Middle Earth : Near Downs : ... : Photo
By: Wilson On The Drums When: Jul 7, 2015

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Comments: Haha so you're saying someone decided to take the trip up this route? How'd it got for them?


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