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Member Since: Jul 13, 2008
Last Visit: Oct 11, 2016
Contact Willoughby

Point Rank: # 8,034
Total Points: 30

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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



Where has Willoughby been climbing?










Contributions


All 81 | Routes 1 | Areas | Photos 4 | Page Improvements | Comments 13 | Posts | Stars 45 | Ratings 18
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Contributed Routes

Name Rating Type Location Date

Rick and Eric's

5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 (16)

Trad, 1 pitch

California : Lake Tahoe : ... : Snowshed Wall

Jul 13, 2008

Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Rock Climbing Photo: That other photo by Brad makes no sense.  This sho...

That other photo by Brad makes no sense. This shows most of the real route (albeit from straight below). Follow the righthand crack 'til it peters out. Move left and head up the gut. You can s

California : Lake Tahoe : ... : Hands Masseuse (5.8)

Apr 3, 2014

Rock Climbing Photo: Plugging gear before the reach up and around to th...

Plugging gear before the reach up and around to the right.

California : Lake Tahoe : ... : Rick and Eric's (5.10b PG13)

Jul 13, 2008

Rock Climbing Photo: My buddy Zach, stylin' the wide bit

My buddy Zach, stylin' the wide bit

California : Lake Tahoe : ... : Rick and Eric's (5.10b PG13)

Jul 13, 2008

Rock Climbing Photo: Shadows make it look like more of an OW than it re...

Shadows make it look like more of an OW than it really is; there are good fists in there

California : Lake Tahoe : ... : Rick and Eric's (5.10b PG13)

Jul 13, 2008

Contributed Comments

 

Location: California : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : Scheelite Canyon / Pratt's ... : ... : Pratt's Crack (5.9)
By: Willoughby When: Jul 22, 2014

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Comments: I just did this last week, and Ybarra's gear beta makes no sense. You can walk a WC #6 for most of the bottom, and then finally again towards the top. There is definitely a little blank stretch in the upper half though, where the gear goes away and so did my heel-toe.

In no particular order, I used a single WC#6 and two WC #5, two BD #4, a #2 metolious on the side wall, a BD #0.5 against a chockstone, and a couple of small nuts on that side wall. ... more >>


Location: California : Lake Tahoe : Highway 50 Corridor : Sugarloaf : Sugarloaf, West Face : ... : Photo
By: Willoughby When: Jun 2, 2014

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Comments: Pretty sure the loose top of that flake had made it to the ground as of last Saturday.


Location: California : Lake Tahoe : I-80 Corridor : Donner/Truckee : Donner Pass Road : ... : Rated X (5.7)
By: Willoughby When: Jan 21, 2014

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Comments: I find the wide crack starting P2 to be pretty straightforward, you just have to stem a little to get up to where the crack narrows. The reach for the ledge after rounding the roof, however, always feels a million miles away.


Location: California : Lake Tahoe : Truckee River Canyon : River Rock : Karls Crack (5.10a)
By: Willoughby When: Dec 26, 2013

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Comments: Personally, I find the start to be the crux. The upper part feels like 5.8-5.9 hands and fists to me. Different strokes, I guess, and it's not like I have gigantic hands. Pretty coarse up top, too, so tape is nice.


Location: California : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Mariuolumne Area : Mariuolumne Dome : ... : Hobbit Book (5.7)
By: Willoughby When: Nov 13, 2013

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Comments: People talk about Pitch 3 being reachy. I'm 5'8" and never felt it was a problem. I did manage to tie-off three plates along the way,using regular shoulder-length runners, but I'm not sure they would have done much.


Location: California : Lake Tahoe : I-80 Corridor : Donner/Truckee : Donner Pass Road : ... : Hungover Hangover (5.10a)
By: Willoughby When: Sep 3, 2013

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Comments: I'll second the pain/tape comments. Ouch. I'm in no hurry to repeat this one.


Location: California : Lake Tahoe : I-80 Corridor : Donner/Truckee : Donner Pass Road : ... : Inside Out (5.8-)
By: Willoughby When: Sep 3, 2013

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Comments: The other pitches are totally fun and worthy, but they do need some more traffic to help clean them up, especially the first pitch chimney. But it'd be a classic if more people got on it (and the chimney didn't scare folks away). That first pitch is probably 5.8 if I remember right. It's been a while since I could convince anybody to climb it with me!


Location: California : Lake Tahoe : I-80 Corridor : Donner/Truckee : Donner Pass Road : ... : Full Tilt (5.11)
By: Willoughby When: Sep 3, 2013

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Comments: This is easily toproped, but I recall from toprope soloing this thing a few years ago that the line rubs on a pretty sharp edge when weighted. Like I said, it's been a few years, so I can't recall the exact scenario, but I do recall getting good and spooked by it.


Location: California : Lake Tahoe : South Shore : The Pie Shop : Main Wall : Hands Masseuse (5.8)
By: Willoughby When: Feb 6, 2012

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Comments: Went to the Pie Shop for the first time a few weeks back, and a party was camped out on this route ALL DAY. I went back and did it today, and now I know why. Way more fun than the two-star reviews suggest. Sure it's grainy, but tape up and enjoy the locker jams. Aside from a couple of psychological cruxes for the leader, it's pure fun - killer jams, and some fun stemming and chimneying higher up. This is a fun route - we each had to take two laps! You can toprope with a 60m rope, bu... more >>


Location: California : Lake Tahoe : I-80 Corridor : Donner/Truckee : Donner Pass Road : ... : Free and Easy (5.6)
By: Willoughby When: Aug 20, 2009

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Comments: FYI, the first 2/3 of the route don't offer a lot of protection for the aspiring 5.6 leader.


Location: California : Lake Tahoe : I-80 Corridor : Donner/Truckee : Donner Pass Road : ... : Childhood's Beginning (5.8)
By: Willoughby When: Aug 20, 2009

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Comments: We did this last weekend. Not sure that I understand your route description entirely, but I'm sure there are variations. Anyhow, we took a very direct approach to get to the base of the Childhood's Beginning dihedral. The upper crack runs out of rock before the top, however. There's no more pro out on the arete, so my partner crossed over into the dihedral after manteling up onto the arete; I stepped across one or two body lengths below, and gained the dihedral just above the bush.... more >>


Location: California : Lake Tahoe : I-80 Corridor : Donner/Truckee : Donner Pass Road : ... : Hair Shirt (5.8+)
By: Willoughby When: Jul 13, 2008

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Comments: I don't bother with any heel-toe on this one; for me the whole upper half is perfect, hands-free, right-side-in knee locks (wear pants!!). About 2/3 of the way up, there is a spot for a #6 friend if you really want to place one. Otherwise, you can push along a #5 through most of the upper part; no Big Bros necessary.


Location: California : Lake Tahoe : I-80 Corridor : Donner/Truckee : Donner Pass Road : ... : Devaluation Direct (5.10a R)
By: Willoughby When: Jul 13, 2008

view comment >>
Comments: WARNING!!! - Spoiler gear beta ahead!!!!


If you happen to have a #5 friend, there's a perfect spot for it right off the deck. A #4 is a touch too small for that spot, but can go right where you need a crucial fist, but with that #5 you get great pro and still get to use that fist jam...perfect! Not "R" at all in my opinion.


Contributed Stars

Name Quality Location

Rick and Eric's 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

California : Lake Tahoe : ... : Snowshed Wall

Rated X 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

California : Lake Tahoe : ... : Black Wall

Over Easy 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

California : Lake Tahoe : ... : Middle Spire

Bishops Terrace 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

California : Yosemite National Park : ... : Church Bowl

Moby Dick 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

California : Yosemite National Park : ... : El Capitan Base Routes

Hobbit Book 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

California : Yosemite National Park : ... : Main Wall

Pratt's Crack 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

California : Sierra Eastside : ... : Pratt's Crack / Dihedrals A...

Monday Morning Slab, Harry Daley Route 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

California : Yosemite National Park : ... : Glacier Point Apron

The Grack - Center 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

California : Yosemite National Park : ... : Glacier Point Apron

Molar Concentration 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

California : Lake Tahoe : ... : Snowshed Wall

Hair Shirt 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

California : Lake Tahoe : ... : Snowshed Wall

Moby Grape 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

New Hampshire : *Cannon Cliff : 4. Moby Grape Area

Black September 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

California : Lake Tahoe : ... : Black Wall

Regular Route 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

California : Lake Tahoe : ... : Middle Spire

Primer 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

California : Lake Tahoe : ... : Black Wall

Kinky Korner 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

California : Lake Tahoe : ... : Stealth Wall

Mary's Crack 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

California : Lake Tahoe : ... : School Rock

Racing Lizards 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

California : Sierra Eastside : ... : PSOM Slab

Jamcrack 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

California : Yosemite National Park : ... : Sunnyside Bench

La Cosita, Left 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

California : Yosemite National Park : ... : El Capitan Base Routes

Senior Prom 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

California : Lake Tahoe : ... : School Rock

Golfer's Route 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

California : Yosemite National Park : ... : Low Profile Dome

Munginella 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

California : Yosemite National Park : ... : Five Open Books

Nova Express 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

California : Lake Tahoe : ... : Snowshed Wall

Bull Dozier 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

California : Yosemite National Park : ... : Dozier Dome

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