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Member Since: Jun 8, 2001
Last Visit: Aug 15, 2008
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Point Rank: # 611
Total Points: 1,305

14 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3



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All 308 | Routes 76 | Areas 29 | Approach Trails | Photos 22 | Page Improvements | Comments 93 | Posts | Stars 86 | Ratings 2
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Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Rock Climbing Photo: Warren Teissier on the East face of the Dreadnaugh...

Warren Teissier on the East face of the Dreadnaught Photo by Geroge Bell

Colorado > Flatirons > ... > East Face/Dreadnaught (5.2)

Nov 28, 2001

Rock Climbing Photo: Warren Teissier starting the E. Face traverse towa...

Warren Teissier starting the E. Face traverse towards the top of the Dog's Head. Photograph by George Bell.

Colorado > Flatirons > ... > Dog's Head Cutoff (5.4 R)

Nov 8, 2001

Contributed Comments

 

Location: Colorado > Boulder > Boulder Canyon > Cob Rock > Empor (5.7+)
By: Warren Teissier When: Aug 28, 2001

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Comments: I agree that the 5.7+ 3 pitch was harder than P1. But as Ben said, it is quite fun. The crack is pretty wide for most of the pitch and I placed my wide pieces up front, leaving me with a good run out. The jams are great though so it wasn't emotionally shattering, I think... :)


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Flatirons > Central > Backporch > East Face/Back Porch (5.6)
By: Warren Teissier When: Aug 7, 2001

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Comments: P1 and P2 can be done as one pitch. I climbed past the tree in the notch and belayed at a tree 20 feet further up.

I did two one rope rappels. Make sure the first rappel set up clears the lip of rock (long lip). I didn't do this and it took 10 minutes of yanking and all my strenght to retrieve the rope. I suggest bringing a long piece of webbing and a rap ring... The second rappel is off an overhanging belay from a bunch of slings.


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Redgarden Wall > Redgarden - Tower One > The Yellow Spur (5.9+)
By: Warren Teissier When: Aug 7, 2001

view comment >>
Comments: Charles, that being said, someone did take a pretty good fall to yank and bend that bolt.

I certainly hope it didn't bend like that on a simple hang.

So for those who WILL do something pretty stupid beware of the second bolt.


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Redgarden Wall > Redgarden - Tower One > The Yellow Spur (5.9+)
By: Warren Teissier When: Jul 21, 2001

view comment >>
Comments: What a great route.

A couple of comments: Combined pitch 4 and 5 as suggested and had a rope drag nightmare after clearing the roof. Next time I will move the belay to the base of the 5.4 dihedral (20 feet to the right) and put an extra long sling before starting the roof traverse.

The second bolt on the 10C variation, pitch before last, is about 1/4" out of the wall and bent. Someone took a screamer on this baby. If I had to bet, I'd give it less than 50% chance that it'll hold another fall.... more >>


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Flatirons > South > The Matron > North Face (5.6)
By: Warren Teissier When: Jul 9, 2001

view comment >>
Comments: The descent can be done with two single rope rappels provided you have a 60m rope (200ft). The second rappel finishes on top of a large flake (20ft tall and 2 feet wide. From there, it's an easy downclimb. I did it with a 50m rope and had to use the last inch of the rope (had to untie the knots on the rope) and stem like mad to make it onto the flake.... Not recommended....


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Flatirons > South > The Maiden > North Face (5.6 R)
By: Warren Teissier When: Jun 25, 2001

view comment >>
Comments: George Bell and I did the North Face last week and actually found the Walton traverse... (glad George didn't take us through the Bell variation).

Climb past the tree at the first belay ove left a few feet and up a hard looking vertical section that looks harder than it is (great hand holds). After about ten feet, you will find two manky rivets... From there traverse left and slightly up to a piton (George backed it up with a Stopper). From here the second belay ledge is about 20 feet to the lef... more >>


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Redgarden Wall > Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... > Rewritten (5.7)
By: Warren Teissier When: Jan 1, 2001

view comment >>
Comments: Warren Teissier - I found the first pitch to be rated correctly but tough to protect (marginal placements and sparse). The closer you get to the traverse into the crack the sparser the pro.


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Flatirons > North > First Flatiron > Direct Route (5.6 R)
By: Warren Teissier When: Jul 14, 2005

view comment >>
Comments: Hey, why not a "third-of-the-way-up-the-arete" bail sling too?

And while we are at it, why not a bail station every other pitch of the regular route? In fact, we should ask the Flatiron's hardware group to conduct a survey of all possible bailing off points and fit them with slings. That way we will not be "disappointed" if we decide to bail at any point in the climb.

The point I am trying to make is: We shouldn't have permanent bail set-ups. By definition, bailing off is an event that takes ... more >>


Location: Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rock > Mt. Wilson > Aeolian Wall > Inti Watana (5.10c)
By: Warren Teissier When: Apr 19, 2005

view comment >>
Comments: I agree with George that this is an amazing route. It felt like the first 7 pitches of Eagle Dance except 60% longer and with a lot more trad and commitment than Eagle Dance. Equal quality of rock and not a single poor quality pitch

The approach is long and a bit complex mainly in ensuring you find the correct gully. But I felt it was not as painful as other approaches (Oak creek canyon for instance). From the "pass" between Mount Wilson and the Pimple head up-hill on faint trails towards the ... more >>


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Boulder Canyon > Animal World > Unfamiliar Strangers (5.9+)
By: Warren Teissier When: Oct 26, 2004

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Comments: Peter, climbing is inhenrently dangerous and unpredictable.

If you start the route without trad gear and then notice the run out (like I did) you have two choices: run it out (as you and I did) or get lowered and you lose a biner.

Otherwise we would need to bolt all the run outs in the Flatirons, too....

At least now, if one reads the description on this site, you know there is a scary run out and that you may need gear.

Caveat Emptor

WT


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > The West Ridge > West Ridge - part C - Pony ... > Handcracker Direct (5.10a)
By: Warren Teissier When: Oct 19, 2004

view comment >>
Comments: We climbed this last Sunday and I have to say it is a great climb. We did it in three pitches linking pitches 2-3 and pitches 4-5. This worked out perfect with a 60M rope.

I felt pitch one was stout for 5.8.

The crux of pitch two proved hard to protect if you are too short to stem to the good holds. The cracks eats gear but if you can't let go to place it, it's not much good. At 6ft I was able to stem just fine.

The flake pitch we thought was wild! we had no large gear to protect so it prove... more >>


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Flatirons > Central > Skunk Canyon > ... > Angel's Way (5.2)
By: Warren Teissier When: Sep 29, 2004

view comment >>
Comments: We just went and soloed this one again today (all seven of us), early in the morning. I never tire of this climb. It is clean and fun and looong. Just a scramble though, so you hard core crankers might not love it as much.

For those of you who like scrambles in the flatirons this one is a must. The "pain" of the approach keeps the crowds away and it is a small price to pay for the quality of climb and position.

This ridge is "off limits" during the Bird Closures so get it while the getting is ... more >>


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > The West Ridge > West Ridge - part A - Versc... > Allosaur (5.9 R)
By: Warren Teissier When: Sep 21, 2004

view comment >>
Comments: We finally got to climb this route. What a treat!

I felt that the first pitch was run out but manageable, but I did not lead it.

We linked the second and third pitches with little rope drag, although I made sure I used a long sling to protect the start of the third pitch.

The run out at the beginning of the third pitch gave me some pause but the holds are positive and the rock is good. Great pro is to be found after a few feet.

I had been scared away from this climb for some time due to the... more >>


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Boulder Canyon > Mine Hole Crag > Sofa Kingdom (5.9+)
By: Warren Teissier When: Sep 21, 2004

view comment >>
Comments: Bob, funny you should bring that up...

I guess we are so used to 5 mile approaches that we did not bother to look for directions until we noticed that we were running out of climbable rocks as we hiked up the side of the hill.

WT


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Boulder Canyon > Mine Hole Crag > Sofa Kingdom (5.9+)
By: Warren Teissier When: Sep 20, 2004

view comment >>
Comments: I agree that this is not 5.10. More like 5.8 with perhaps one move of 5.9.

I guess if one would limit onself to following the bolt line directly it may be harder than if you reach left and right for the obvious holds. But then, it would be way contrived....

Anyway, fun route to do, particularly if you are lost looking for the Animal Crag and stumble upon it.

WT


Location: Colorado > Alpine Rock > RMNP - Rock > Petit Grepon > South Face (5.8)
By: Warren Teissier When: Aug 18, 2004

view comment >>
Comments: I finally got around to climbing this. We did it this Tuesday and had the climb practically to ourselves.

I must say this is a damn good climb. The Petit is simply awesome. We soloed the first pitch's 4th/ easy 5th class slabs and grove left of the "direct start". And linked pitches 2-3 from deep in the chimney.

I have never been on a climb with so many fixed pieces: Stoppers, camalots, rigid friends, hexes, trango cams, aliens. Can't understand why this is so.

Simply amazing summit.

We did... more >>


Location: Colorado > Alpine Rock > The Crestones > The Prow (Kit Carson) (5.8 R)
By: Warren Teissier When: Aug 9, 2004

view comment >>
Comments: We finally did this climb on Sunday 8/8/04.

Very cool route. The descriptions above were pretty much on target. A couple of comments:

- The 5.8 start is at 13,000 ft. For some reason even though I knew the Prow came close to the summit I never did the math to the start... So as you ponder your capabilities to do this route remember that the whole affair will take place between 13K-14K ft.

- It is mentioned in the above comments that the route is run out. Now, I am used to Flatiron run outs a... more >>


Location: Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rock > Oak Creek Canyon > Eagle Wall > Eagle Dance (5.10b/c A0+)
By: Warren Teissier When: May 10, 2004

view comment >>
Comments: Couple of thoughts:

Even though the aid section can be done with slings it is not as simple as one might think. I found that moving into the crack/groove at the end of the bolt ladder was non trivial. I certainly did not feel comfortable going it "free" into the groove right after the last bolt. (traverse to the left)

The climbing to reach the hanging belay above the "Trash and Dangle" and the next short section looked awkward and hard. Possibly harder and certainly weirder than anything on th... more >>


Location: Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rock > Oak Creek Canyon > Eagle Wall
By: Warren Teissier When: May 5, 2004

view comment >>
Comments: We recently had the opportunity to trash in and out of Oak Creek Canyon on our way to Eagle Dance. Having done the hike before, we knew that it would not be fun.

Because we were expecting a thrashing and were paying lots of attention to cairns and bypasses for the large boulders, the first part of the canyon (up to the fork junction) went surprisingly well.

Just as we were commenting on how this was really not that bad, we started getting religion, crawling under prickly bushes with a full pa... more >>


Location: Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rock > Juniper Canyon > Rose Tower > Olive Oil (5.7)
By: Warren Teissier When: May 5, 2004

view comment >>
Comments: After completing the Crux Dihedral, resist the urge to climb the small roundy "boulder summit" in front of you.

The route scrambles off to its right.

Not knowing this, I climbed to the top (5.7?). Nice view, but no way down. I found an ancient, way wobbly stardrive bolt with a ratty sling. No way I was going to rap off of this...So I had to downclimb and clean my gear, by far the scariest part of the whole climb.

Other than that I had a great time on this route.

WT


Location: Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rock > Icebox Canyon > Frigid Air Buttress > Frigid Air Buttress (5.9+)
By: Warren Teissier When: May 5, 2004

view comment >>
Comments: Climbed this with George a few days ago. A couple of comments on this great route:

- It has a very different "feel" from other climbs I've done in Red Rocks: lots of cracks, almost completetly boltless, very little traffic, complex route finding. I guess this is how Ginger Cracks felt before all the belays and the crux were bolted. Definitely a "burly" climb with no gimme pitches.

- Regarding the descent: After rapping the slot (1st rap)walk South (20yards?)on a small trail between the bushes ... more >>


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Flatirons > Central > Two Move Rock > South East Ridge/Two Move R... (5.2)
By: Warren Teissier When: Apr 29, 2004

view comment >>
Comments: Greg, it has been a while... I do not necessarily recall the details. I only remember it was short and that the two moves were a bit grippy for me (soloing).

I seem to recall the moves being somewhere in the middle at a small headwall.

Regarding Sentinel Pass, I recall walking North from the top of the rock in order to reach it. I think the terrain is higher than the pass itself so if that's what you mean by above I agree.

WT


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Flatirons > North > Challenger > East Face/Challenger (5.5 R)
By: Warren Teissier When: Apr 16, 2004

view comment >>
Comments: To complement George's comment above: the crux of the climb comes at exactly 100 ft above the horizontal crack anchor... no pro in between...

This one has a high pucker factor, Pheeew!

Very nice though.

WT


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