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Member Since: Apr 12, 2006
Last Visit: 8 hours ago
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



Where has Wally been climbing?










Contributions


All 416 | Routes | Areas | Photos | Page Improvements | Comments 36 | Posts 361 | Stars 11 | Ratings 8
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Utah : Moab Area : Castle Valley : The Priest : Honeymoon Chimney (5.11a)
By: Wally When: Apr 24, 2017

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Comments: The Honeymoon Chimney summit rap anchor has old webbing that is need of replacement / backup. A length of webbing of about 12 to 15 feet would do the job. Also, a pen would be nice for the summit register.

Great route . . . !


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Castleton Tower : Black Sun (5.10b)
By: Wally When: Apr 24, 2017

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Comments: A great and better finish for Black Sun for those up for a bit more excitement than the so so normal last pitch of Black Sun is the last pitch of Burning Inside. Pretty exciting and a really cool pitch. Awesome position. Tricky and perhaps some dubious pro. The upgraded bolts help take some of the nerve out of the pitch.


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Castleton Tower : Burning Inside (5.11b)
By: Wally When: Apr 24, 2017

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Comments: Pitch 4 pretty exciting and a really cool pitch. Awesome position. Tricky and perhaps some dubious pro. The upgraded bolts help take some of the nerve out of the pitch. A great and better finish for Black Sun for those up for a bit more excitement than the so so normal last pitch of Black Sun.


Location: California : High Sierra : 13 - Whitney and Surroundin... : Mt. Russell : Star Trekkin' (5.10b/c) : Photo
By: Wally When: Dec 14, 2016

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Comments: Awesome photos, Steph, thank you!


Location: Colorado : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Rim Routes : North Chasm View Wall : ... : Photo
By: Wally When: Apr 25, 2016

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Comments: This topo is very good, better than the topo in the guidebook.

I agree with the 3 linking suggestions on the topo.

The pitch I disagree with the most on the topo is the peg traversing pitch. The topo suggests the pitch is almost entirely horizontal. It is a big traverse left, but you also gain a fair amount of elevation along the way.

Thanks for posting up the topo, eDixon!


Location: Colorado : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Black Wall : Rainbow Highway (5.10+)
By: Wally When: Sep 8, 2014

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Comments: Rainbow Highway can be rapped with a single 70 meter rope. The last rap is best done angling to the rappeller's left into a gully. Rapping straight down on the last rap doesn't get you to the ground.

If you bring two ropes on your climb, I would still rap the line with a single 70 meter rope. Cleaner and shorter pulls with no knot to deal with.

All rap anchors are chains.

Wally


Location: California : High Sierra : 02 - The Sawtooth Ridge : Incredible Hulk
By: Wally When: Jul 12, 2014

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Comments: Is there a reliable water source for camping near the base of the Hulk in August?


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Hell Roaring Canyon : The Cauldrons : Eye of the Newt (5.10)
By: Wally When: Apr 22, 2014

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Comments: Great route, and solid beta above.

I agree with Alison - doing the route in three pitches makes sense, since there is a nice and big ledge 50 feet up or so. And yes, two ropes needed to descend from the first set of anchors. The first set of anchors is high up, about 35 meters above the big ledge 50 feet off the deck.

Regarding the rack, I morphed between Drewford's three #3s and Alexander's one #3 recommendation.

My suggested rack - two sets of cams, from green Aliens to #3... more >>


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Hell Roaring Canyon : The Kachina Spires : Kachina Tower South (5.8 C0)
By: Wally When: Apr 22, 2014

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Comments: Best rope system for this route is a single 70 meter rope. A single 60 meter rope may be sufficient, not sure.

Ian's beta I have a few disagreements with. The first and third pitches are protectable. The third pitch is tough to protect the opening moves for the leader, but a couple of small cams protect the second. Also, if you don't clip the last piton on the final pitch and you blow the tricky move past that, you would fall a long way, possibly decking on the ledge below. Clip the last piton!... more >>


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Hell Roaring Canyon : The Kachina Spires : Photo
By: Wally When: Apr 22, 2014

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Comments: This photo is mis-labeled. The south tower is on the left, the north tower is on the right. The photo was taken in mid to late afternoon - with the sun in the southwestern sky.


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Hell Roaring Canyon : The Kachina Spires : Kachina Tower South (5.8 C0) : Photo
By: Wally When: Apr 22, 2014

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Comments: This photo, taken from the fence at the campsite at the end of the road, shows the traverse into the canyon. This wasn't clear to me prior to doing the traverse. Important point here is that if you are at the campsite at the end of the road, enjoying that great view of the Kachina Spires, the traverse is in sight, as shown in this photo. To get to the start of the traverse, hike to almost the end of the point, then drop down and look ledges that traverse back away from the point.


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Hell Roaring Canyon
By: Wally When: Apr 22, 2014

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Comments: Rim Rappel appoach mileages. Reset odometer at the junction of 191 and 313:

Lone Mesa Campground signed turnoff on right (go straight) - 8.1 miles.
Horse Theif Campground signed turnoff, go right (Mineral Point Road) - 11.4 miles.
Junction, mining road on left, go right - 14.0 miles.
Turnoff on right, go straight on better road - 15.1 miles.
Mining road on left, go straight - 15.8 miles.
Take the rough road on the left, just before the end of the bluff on the right - 18.2 miles.
Go right at the... more >>


Location: Colorado : Grand Junction Area : Colorado National Monument : Monument Canyon : Monolith Spire - Dewar Dihe... (5.10+) : Photo
By: Wally When: Mar 23, 2014

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Comments: Jordan - there are two massive dihedrals in this photo. Which dihedral, the right or the left, is the route?


Location: Wyoming : Devil's Tower : North Face & Northwest Corn... : Psychic Turbulance (5.11b)
By: Wally When: Feb 12, 2014

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Comments: Has anyone done this route in recent years? I had the fortune to get this really tough line many years ago. I spoke with the stud climbing ranger a couple of years ago - he said Psychic Turbulence needed some gardening work, and hadn't been climbed in years.

True?


Location: Wyoming : Ten Sleep Canyon
By: Wally When: Jul 9, 2013

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Comments: As a first time visitor last weekend from Colorado, good directions to the Ten Sleep free camping area were hard to find, approaching from the east. Here you go:

Powder River Pass is mile marker 55 on highway 16.
Willow Park Campground is mile marker 45 on highway 16.
Deer Haven Lodge is mile marker 44 on highway 16.

The old road, gateway to good and free Ten Sleep camping, is near mile marker 42 on highway 16. The old road is not signed and difficult to spot at night. A good landmark is the o... more >>


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Fin Wall : Hot Fun Sunday (5.11)
By: Wally When: May 24, 2013

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Comments: Four pieces in 70 feet at Indian Creek - on an insecure 5.11. Come on Tony. Perhaps you were bored back the day you put this route up and looking to stir the pot. Climb on my friend.


Location: Arizona : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : The Steep
By: Wally When: May 13, 2013

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Comments: For the first time visitor, this place was tough to find. To get to The Steep, first drive to Summerhaven, and then continue on the road past Summerhaven (as noted above, generally in a southern direction) 1.0 miles to the end of the road, noted as Marshall Gulch. The Aspen trail trail begins at Marshall Gulch.

As noted above, the climbers trail is pretty obvious, on the left, just after the Aspen trail makes a sharp right turn. Perhaps 15 minutes of hiking on the Aspen trail, and then an addit... more >>


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Donnelly Canyon : Generic Crack (5.10-) : Photo
By: Wally When: Feb 22, 2013

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Comments: Not sure if this is crucial. But sure, always good to score the no hands rest!


Location: Nevada : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Sweet Pain Wall : Sister of Pain (5.11c)
By: Wally When: Oct 23, 2012

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Comments: A great line. Pretty darn sustained.


Location: Nevada : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Sweet Pain Wall : Slave to the Grind (5.11b)
By: Wally When: Oct 23, 2012

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Comments: Great line!


Location: Nevada : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : Sandy Corridor : Chrysler Crack (5.9)
By: Wally When: Oct 23, 2012

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Comments: This line faces north - great to do on a hot day. The gear beta here is good. No longer need to bring gear for the belay, as there are two bolts on the summit and also an anchor at the top of the route.

Great line!


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Tusher Canyon : Neighbor Of Putterman : After the Rain (5.10)
By: Wally When: Apr 10, 2012

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Comments: This one has sandbag written all over it. First pitch is pretty tricky, more like 5.9.

Second pitch is a great pitch! Very memorable. Dan - you must have big mitts - this pitch steps up harder than 5.8 much earlier than suggested.

I also struggle with the rack beta on this one. Both Sergio and Alison recommend 3 to 4 #3.5 camalots. Pretty unique size - not too many folks out there have that many number 3.5s. The most prevalant cam size is #3 camalots. My gear beta for this one:

Si... more >>


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Tusher Canyon : House Of Putterman : Walden's Room (5.10c)
By: Wally When: Apr 10, 2012

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Comments: As usual, the Andy Laakmann beta is right on - thanks Andy!

Sam and Josh - thanks for the updated hardware!

Cool route! Great summit. Put this one on your list!

Pitch four - both crux sections are hard, memorable. One bit of disagreement is the suggestion to aid the bolt ladder - very freeable and reasonable at the grade - if you slip - the bolt is right there. Maybe this section has cleaned up over time.


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Tusher Canyon : House Of Putterman : Easton's Corner (5.11)
By: Wally When: Apr 10, 2012

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Comments: Nice line - would be a tough lead - very bouldery and hard to protect start. Convenient top rope after Walden's Room.


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Tusher Canyon : Echo Pinnacle : Free Window Route (5.11a)
By: Wally When: Apr 10, 2012

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Comments: Beta here is solid. We did pitch 2 and pitch 3 as one - not much of a ledge if you break this up as two pitches, although the weight of two ropes at the top of this long pitch was certainly evident. An incredible pitch - quite strenuous, opening moves, finishing moves, pretty much the whole pitch is in your face. A few rests after you punch through the hands to tight hands start. If you love this pitch - somewhat reminiscent of Long Dong Wall (Colorado National Monument) and Honeymoon Chimney.

... more >>


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