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Member Since: Apr 22, 2010
Last Visit: 3 days ago
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WadeM
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Point Rank: # 2,466
Total Points: 320

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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3



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Contributions


All 946 | Routes 6 | Areas 2 | Approach Trails | Photos 46 | Page Improvements | Comments 134 | Posts 311 | Stars 421 | Ratings 26
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Redgarden Wall > Redgarden - Roof Routes > Scary Canary (5.12b/c R)
By: WadeM When: Jan 14, 2018

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Comments: For P2: start as for the Wisdom, but pull up into the corner up and left, and clip a pin. Build a small nest of gear. (0.5/0.75, #6 RP, and a purple c3). You won't want to bother placing anything else until you're through the crux. Keep walking feet on either side of the dihedral until you can place the bomber 0.5 and clip a pin. I'd recommend extending this pin or putting a revolver on it as it inducing pretty bag drag. Climb through the amazing roof holds, and find the hidden mailbox slot befo... more >>


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Redgarden Wall > Redgarden - Roof Routes > Le Toit Direct (5.11d R)
By: WadeM When: Jan 13, 2018

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Comments: Really fun pitch of climbing and a great way to finish Scary Canary! Delicate faceclimbing leads to a high first bolt. There is gear before this. The climbing between bolt 1 & 2 is probably the mental crux of the route as the last hard moves are just before being able to clip. Don't miss the key green Alien/black Totem-sized placement up and left from the last bolt. Pull the roof on super positive holds!


Location: Colorado > CO Ice & Mixed > Clear Creek Canyon - Ice > Little Eiger area - ice > Coors Lite (WI2-3)
By: WadeM When: Jan 9, 2018

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Comments: Chris, it's in but wet. Get on it quickly.


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Redgarden Wall > Redgarden - Tower Two > Lene's Dream (5.11b/c R)
By: WadeM When: Dec 4, 2017

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Comments: What a fun way to finish JV!

I also took the whip from as far away from the gear as possible, and it was exciting but not bad. Ended up back down slightly below the JV rotten band.
A 0.3 is bomber, Black Totem also fits great!


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Redgarden Wall > Redgarden - Tower Two > Cave Pitch (5.8)
By: WadeM When: Nov 18, 2017

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Comments: Really no bird crap left. I find it quite fun now.


Location: California > Yosemite National Park > Yosemite Valley > Half Dome > Regular Northwest Face of H... (5.9 C1)
By: WadeM When: Oct 30, 2017

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Comments: Fun route!

Where does pitch 22 go?
I did the first penji just fine, but had no idea where to go for the second?
I ended up top stepping on my spreader bar and getting the medium cam to stick in a real shit diagonal depression. A 2 lobe black alien got me to the crimper ledge. I then back clean all that and free climbed back down and left to the anchors.

I had tried a couple hook moves left but they were absolute rubbish. Is the penji way down and left?!?


Location: Colorado > South Platte > West Creek > Thunder Ridge > The Quarry > Bundle of Fleece (5.9-)
By: WadeM When: Oct 24, 2017

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Comments: I bet Sophie crushed it!


Location: California > Yosemite National Park > Yosemite Valley > Mecca > Jungle Boogie (5.11c)
By: WadeM When: Oct 23, 2017

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Comments: Fun route for those looking to clip bolts

10 lead bolts


Location: Colorado > Golden > Clear Creek Canyon > Wall of the '90s > Wet Dream (5.12a)
By: WadeM When: Oct 4, 2017

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Comments: Fun route.

Ripped a hold off down low. It climbs at the same grade.


Location: Colorado > South Platte > Cathedral Spires Area > Poe Buttress > Edge of Fright (5.11b R)
By: WadeM When: Sep 29, 2017

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Comments: Finally got around to giving this thing a go! Surely packs a punch for 11b!

I'd say it goes at PG-13+ as lots of the gear is strenuous to place but never fully R.

I brought 0.1 0.2 double rack black Totem to 2, RPs/small wires and (1) 3 for opening handcrack and the magical black tricam for the traverse! Highly recommend this piece.

This climbs is all about the face climbing and flared jams! Get on it!


Location: Colorado > Gunnison > Black Canyon of the Gunniso... > South Rim Routes > Astro Dog (5.11+)
By: WadeM When: Sep 25, 2017

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Comments: Super fun route!

Raps took about about 2 hours with one minor rope mishap (rap where topo says to hook on flake or swing hard left) - we swung hard left and the rope got stuck while pulling. Took about 20 mins to fix.

It is possible to rap straight down the alternate start as there is currently a fixed anchor atop P1. So from the second to last Astroslog rap, swing over to the splitter. It is a fixed nut, grey Alien, and #1.

Timing: started climbing just after 8am, made it to 2 Boulder Bivi a... more >>


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > The Bastille > The Bastille - N Face > Northwest Corner (5.11-)
By: WadeM When: Aug 30, 2017

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Comments: I tested the gear yesterday... holds just fine :)

Yesterday was my first day on NW Corner. I think the current gear is adequate. I whipped on a 0.1 BD x4. It was backed up by a bomber blue/green offset.


Location: California > Lake Tahoe > I-80 Corridor > Donner/Truckee > Donner Pass > ... > Finger Licker (5.11a)
By: WadeM When: Jun 29, 2017

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Comments: Lead onsite this am. Not too bad of a lead. Protects quite well with small gear and small nuts, no need to RPs.

Key .3 and .5 placement to keep you off ground.

Fun variation breaking left up the runout face. There's a slot for .5 size about halfway up and then eases up.


Location: Alabama > Steele
By: WadeM When: Apr 27, 2017

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Comments: Had a run in with the landowner. Turns out if you're not a jerk, he's a nice guy. A bit crusty but people say the same about me :)


Location: Alabama > Steele > SCC Property > New Ideal (5.11a)
By: WadeM When: Apr 27, 2017

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Comments: Forgot how steep the South is! Fun route that is over relatively quickly. Bolts easy to clip without a 4 or 5
I ended up using the 4 higher up. Lots of lichen up top but easy enough


Location: Colorado > South Platte > Buffalo Creek > Obscure Buffalo Creek Rocks > deGaulle's Nose free route (5.11c)
By: WadeM When: Mar 20, 2017

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Comments: Fun route and a great way to end the day since it's so close to the road.

Not even close to 11c/d.

Fun 10 climbing to a one move wonder with great pro.

I'd give her 11a.


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Redgarden Wall > Redgarden - Tower Two > The Naked Edge (5.11b)
By: WadeM When: Feb 8, 2017

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Comments: No fixed gear at present besides the normal:
P2: pin before you turn the arete.
P3: there's like 4? pins.
P4: No fixed cam anymore, pin, pin, pin.
P5: pin, no present fixed gear before boulder problem, chockstone.

  • **As of 11/30/17



Location: Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Redgarden Wall > Redgarden - Roof Routes > The Wisdom (5.11d R)
By: WadeM When: Feb 8, 2017

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Comments: Wow what a route! I had built this route up in my head for so long! Wish I had gotten on it sooner. Definitely my favorite of the Roof routes!

Single rack is perfect, 0.4-2, just depends on what you're getting on after!

There is a fixed nut that backs up the hard-to-see pin.


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Redgarden Wall > Redgarden - Tower One > Doub-Griffith (5.11c)
By: WadeM When: Feb 6, 2017

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Comments: Combined 1&2 nicely with a single rack, didn't find a need for RPs, pro to BD #1.

Stellar climbing.

5.11 Arete tour of Redgarden:
Suparete - bolts and single rack,
Doub-Griffith - bolts and single rack,
Naked Edge - pro to 2".

Such a good afternoon!


Location: Colorado > South Platte > Cathedral Spires Area > Poe Buttress > Mississippi Half-Step (5.11d)
By: WadeM When: Dec 15, 2016

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Comments: What a stellar 2 pitches of climbing!!!!!

I had a single set of Totem cams, and they worked quite great in the smaller constrictions.

P1: devious downclimb traverse into flaring handcrack.
P2: wild face climbing where the crack peters out. A #3 would have been great to have after this section, but a 0.75 will do, bolt and then a crack tight hand crack.

RPS not mandatory, but I could see where they fit.


Location: Utah > Moab Area > Arches National Park > The Three Gossips > West Face (5.11)
By: WadeM When: Nov 14, 2016

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Comments: Crux easily protected with a rack of totem cams, bomber placements

Stout and sandy!

Fun Tower


Location: California > Yosemite National Park > Yosemite Valley > Leaning Tower Area > Leaning Tower > West Face (5.7 C2)
By: WadeM When: Oct 31, 2016

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Comments: Second time up this fun route.

Rack:
3 smallest offset cams
3 smallest C3s
2 Peckers
(2) Black - Green Totem
(1) 1
(2) 2
(1) 3
(2) 4

no nuts or hooks

Mandatory free to get to the anchors of many pitches without hooks


Location: California > Yosemite National Park > Yosemite Valley > El Capitan > Base Routes > ... > Photo
By: WadeM When: Oct 20, 2016

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Comments: There is currently only a fix head at the end of the roof


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Upper Dream Canyon > Lost Angel > Archangel (5.12c)
By: WadeM When: Oct 20, 2016

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Comments: What a fun route! Thanks, Chris, for cleaning this up!

Wish Bocan had more climbs like this!


Location: Colorado > South Platte > Big Rock Candy Mountain > Fields of Dreams Growing Wi... (5.11+ R)
By: WadeM When: Oct 19, 2016

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Comments: What a fun route! Glad for the ASCA bolts too!

I felt that 10+ crack pitch was exhausting, more so than the 11d. With more traffic, hopefully that crux will clean up. We pulled off some pebbles, but I managed to get it, only to fall higher on the 11a pitch.

Highly recommend bringing some microtraxs to simul the upper pitches. We had a pretty angry thunderstorm roaring down on us and were super happy we brought the micros.

Eric's beat above^^^^ is spot on.

Get on this thing!


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