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Member Since: Apr 22, 2010
Last Visit: 18 hours ago
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WadeM
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Point Rank: # 2,655
Total Points: 215

6 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



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Contributions


All 837 | Routes 6 | Areas 2 | Photos 38 | Page Improvements | Comments 120 | Posts 281 | Stars 372 | Ratings 18
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Colorado : South Platte : Buffalo Creek : Obscure Buffalo Creek Rocks : deGaulle's Nose free route (5.11c)
By: WadeM When: Mar 20, 2017

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Comments: Fun route and a great way to end the day since it's so close to the road.

Not even close to 11c/d.

Fun 10 climbing to a one move wonder with great pro.

I'd give her 11a.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : The Naked Edge (5.11b)
By: WadeM When: Feb 8, 2017

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Comments: No fixed gear at present besides the normal:
P2: pin before you turn the arete.
P3: there's like 4? pins.
P4: fixed Friend (cord was replaced last fall), pin, pin, pin.
P5: pin, fixed nut (cable replaced last fall, I believe), chockstone.


  • **As of 2/16/17. there is a fixed nut on P1, it might not be there long though :)



Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Roof Routes : The Wisdom (5.11d R)
By: WadeM When: Feb 8, 2017

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Comments: Wow what a route! I had built this route up in my head for so long! Wish I had gotten on it sooner. Definitely my favorite of the Roof routes!

Single rack is perfect, 0.4-2, just depends on what you're getting on after!

There is a fixed nut that backs up the hard-to-see pin.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Doub-Griffith (5.11c)
By: WadeM When: Feb 6, 2017

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Comments: Combined 1&2 nicely with a single rack, didn't find a need for RPs, pro to BD #1.

Stellar climbing.

5.11 Arete tour of Redgarden:
Suparete - bolts and single rack,
Doub-Griffith - bolts and single rack,
Naked Edge - pro to 2".

Such a good afternoon!


Location: Colorado : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : Poe Buttress : Mississippi Half-Step (5.11d)
By: WadeM When: Dec 15, 2016

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Comments: What a stellar 2 pitches of climbing!!!!!

I had a single set of Totem cams, and they worked quite great in the smaller constrictions.

P1: devious downclimb traverse into flaring handcrack.
P2: wild face climbing where the crack peters out. A #3 would have been great to have after this section, but a 0.75 will do, bolt and then a crack tight hand crack.

RPS not mandatory, but I could see where they fit.


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Arches National Park : The Three Gossips : West Face (5.11)
By: WadeM When: Nov 14, 2016

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Comments: Crux easily protected with a rack of totem cams, bomber placements

Stout and sandy!

Fun Tower


Location: California : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Leaning Tower Area : Leaning Tower : West Face (5.7 C2)
By: WadeM When: Oct 31, 2016

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Comments: Second time up this fun route.

Rack:
3 smallest offset cams
3 smallest C3s
2 Peckers
(2) Black - Green Totem
(1) 1
(2) 2
(1) 3
(2) 4

no nuts or hooks

Mandatory free to get to the anchors of many pitches without hooks


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : The Naked Edge (5.11b)
By: WadeM When: Oct 25, 2016

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Comments: Fixed nut on P1.


Location: California : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan Base Routes : Freeblast (5.11) : Photo
By: WadeM When: Oct 20, 2016

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Comments: There is currently only a fix head at the end of the roof


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Lost Angel : Archangel (5.12c)
By: WadeM When: Oct 20, 2016

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Comments: What a fun route! Thanks, Chris, for cleaning this up!

Wish Bocan had more climbs like this!


Location: Colorado : South Platte : Big Rock Candy Mountain : Fields of Dreams Growing Wi... (5.11+ R)
By: WadeM When: Oct 19, 2016

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Comments: What a fun route! Glad for the ASCA bolts too!

I felt that 10+ crack pitch was exhausting, more so than the 11d. With more traffic, hopefully that crux will clean up. We pulled off some pebbles, but I managed to get it, only to fall higher on the 11a pitch.

Highly recommend bringing some microtraxs to simul the upper pitches. We had a pretty angry thunderstorm roaring down on us and were super happy we brought the micros.

Eric's beat above^^^^ is spot on.

Get on this thin... more >>


Location: Colorado : Grand Junction Area : Escalante Canyon : Interiors Wall Area : Briar's Birth (5.11+)
By: WadeM When: Oct 18, 2016

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Comments: I cleaned out the crack switch last year as it was mud filled. Super fun climbing! Top roof is exhausting!


Location: Colorado : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : Cynical Pinnacle : Center Route (5.9+)
By: WadeM When: Oct 18, 2016

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Comments: To the comments of sandbaggery...
The Front Range doesn't have many splitters like this, so it's hard to compare to places like Wldo. Keep in mind that the Naked Edge handcrack gets rated 10c-ish and that is quite the step up from this.

This would fit in nicely with many Yosemite 5.9s.


Location: Colorado : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : Cynical Pinnacle : Center Route (5.9+)
By: WadeM When: Oct 18, 2016

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Comments: Toaster block is still chilling on P3. I honestly didn't notice it until my partner mentioned it on follow. Pretty easy to avoid.

Man, what a great route!


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - W Face : Hair City (5.9+ R)
By: WadeM When: Sep 15, 2016

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Comments: Currently a fixed stopper on P2 roof.


Location: Colorado : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Creek Side : Solid Gold (5.12a)
By: WadeM When: Sep 1, 2016

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Comments: The pump really builds on this one, especially if you don't get the crux sequence first go (which I didn't). Two powerful cruxes on good rock!

We combined the first 3 pitches with about 15 QDs and a microtrax.

Super fun morning.


Location: Colorado : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : The Bishop : Unknown Handcrack - AKA The... (5.10+)
By: WadeM When: Aug 13, 2016

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Comments: We found an old sling used as a rap anchor. There are a couple options to get to the top of this thing, so I'd be interested if someone has done this.


Location: Colorado : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : The Bishop : Craftwork (5.11c)
By: WadeM When: Aug 13, 2016

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Comments: BD4 is nice for the start as it's kinda funky. I started in the finger crackish thing just to the right and transitioned over.

Singles to #3, 3-5 BD #0.3/0.4.

It's a long pitch and is awesome.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Mellow Fellow (5.12a)
By: WadeM When: Jul 28, 2016

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Comments: Second pin on second pitch is no longer there. It got pulled during a fall this morning. A decent RP can be placed near where it pulled, but be aware.

Great route!


Location: Colorado : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : The Diamond : Hearts and Arrows (5.12b)
By: WadeM When: Jul 25, 2016

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Comments: ^^^ nice Eric
"Of note, the rotten corners a lot better than it looks, but if you can, give it to your partner."

Great route, great position. Bottom of route will get better with more traffic. Top 4 pitches of straight in jamming make a great and memorable exit.


Location: Colorado : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Glacier Gorge : Chiefshead Northwest Face : Birds of Fire (5.11a R)
By: WadeM When: Jul 21, 2016

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Comments: I'll agree with Simon that it's important to be a solid 10+ climber.

Fun route! Nice option for an iffy weather day, because you can just rappel the route. Just don't get caught on a runout when it starts to rain!


Location: Colorado : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Glacier Gorge : Chiefshead Northeast Face : Cowboys and Indians (5.11b/c)
By: WadeM When: Jul 21, 2016

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Comments: Great route!

P1 - first bolt is out of view. Climb up the seam to a good foot ledge where you'll find the bolt.

P7 - the dihedral variation shown above looked fun, but we took the pitch described by Mr. Cordes. Take the arching crack on the far left side of the ledge, plug a gray Alien and a 0.5, and climb about 10 feet to good but small gear. I angled up and left, would have liked to place a bomber 0.5 and then go to anchors.

The last pitch is wet and exciting for both le... more >>


Location: Colorado : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : Chasm View Wall : Babies R' Us (5.12- PG13)
By: WadeM When: Jul 12, 2016

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Comments: About 3 parties in the last week have gotten up this beauty. The route is clean and ready to go for summer!


Location: Colorado : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : The Diamond : Eroica (5.12b PG13)
By: WadeM When: Jul 11, 2016

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Comments: Agree with Josh that the 11+ stem pitch is harder than the 12b. This climb is stout. Last two pitches are now very mungy. We avoided one of the pitches by traversing over to Yellow Wall and then came back.

The crux stem pitch (not the 12) no longer has any pins as noted on the topo.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : The Naked Edge (5.11b)
By: WadeM When: Jul 6, 2016

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Comments: P3 choss seemed a bit looser that usual this morning....


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