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Member Since: Aug 12, 2010
Last Visit: Aug 25, 2016
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Point Rank: # 1,281
Total Points: 618
Last Year: 74
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61 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1

Where has Vic been climbing?


All 163 | Routes 17 | Areas 2 | Photos 80 | Page Improvements | Comments 17 | Posts 22 | Stars 25 | Ratings
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Contributed Comments


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Rim Routes : SOB Gully (skier's left sid... : Cloaked Interpretation (5.10+ PG13)
By: Vic When: Jul 9, 2016

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Comments: This is an exceptional linkup. Sure to become the classic route at the grade on the buttress. Didn't get to climb the Lokey-Righter independent pitch, but it is also possible to simply move around the corner of the arête (another 10-20' right, through a bush) to the base of the beautiful fist-to-hand crack on P6 on Migs Arête. Very high quality and stacked with 5 or 6 pitches of 5.9+ to 5.10+.

Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso...
By: Vic When: Jun 26, 2016

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Comments: After many years of work, I am pleased to announce that there is a new guidebook for the Black Canyon....

The Black. A Comprehensive Climbing Guide to Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park is available through K. Daniels Publishing:

At 512 pages, this full color guidebook is packed with dozens of new lines, detailed approach information and pitch by pitch descriptions, pictures of the walls, first ascent storie... more >>

Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : Unaweep Canyon : Main Canyon: Unaweep Granit... : Mother's Buttress : ... : Questions and Answers (5.10+)
By: Vic When: Mar 21, 2016

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Comments: As another descent option, it is also possible to rappel Scanners, which is a newer bolted slab route to the right of the old descent gully. This involves three straightforward, single rope rappels on bolted anchors (we had a 70m). From the P2 belay on Q&A, look toward the left shoulder of Middle Mothers, and locate the top anchor on Scanners (about 75-100 feet from the top of the formation). Getting to this anchor involves some exposed 3rd/4th class, but it is not bad.

Super classic line! One... more >>

Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : South Rim Routes : Dark Star (5.10+)
By: Vic When: Aug 20, 2015

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Comments: After receiving feedback from friends who have repeated Dark Star and going back to climb the upper portion of the route via the Schaffer-Schauer line to the right dubbed Park Czar, it'’s true that a more accurate grade is probably (V 5.11- [5.9 R]) when compared to the Scenic Cruise. Although Dark Star has some devious pitches and thought provoking sections, for the 5.11 leader who has some mileage in the Black, it is a good objective. To the best of my recollection, there ... more >>

Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Rim Routes : North Chasm View Wall : Goss-Logan (5.11 R)
By: Vic When: May 6, 2014

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Comments: There are four new bolts on the crux pitch, with a new and old bolt still equalized at the first clip.

Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : Curecanti National Recreati... : Curecanti Needle : Northwest Rib (5.9-)
By: Vic When: Jul 18, 2013

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Comments: This climb is a lot of fun. If you're looking for an obscure adventure route in an awesome setting, then this is well worth the extra effort it takes to figure out how to the cross the lake.

A few notes...
- There's no reason to hike up the gully to start the route mid-buttress. From where you park the boats at the base of the steep scree field, rope up and traverse above the water to start in a wide, left-facing corner with a piton. From here, basically stay on the ridge all the way to the ... more >>

Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : South Rim Routes : Black Shadow Arete (5.11a)
By: Vic When: May 20, 2013

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Comments: A few notes... the protection bolts on the pitch below Mirror Wall Ledge have been replaced. All of the other anchor bolts can be backed up with a bomber piece to supplement. The 5.10+, improbable-looking, thin crack/face variation on the amended topo is awesome and leads directly up to the bolts. The chimney/chasm that leaves from the left side of Mirror Wall Ledge is wild! Seemed like the ideal big cam rack would be two #4s and two #5s (C4s) - there's no good #4 (C4) plac... more >>

Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Rim Routes : SOB Gully (skier's left sid... : Debutante's Ball (5.11)
By: Vic When: May 2, 2013

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Comments: Just a note to help people find the correct start: the twin seams are relatively short and hard to find at first. Begin in the SOB gully, below a large boulder which is about 50' above a sizeble tree (just before you reach the terrace that is between the two buttresses). This climb is rad - certainly worthy of more traffic than it sees.

Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : McInnis Canyons : The Cowboy Hat (A1)
By: Vic When: Mar 25, 2012

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Comments: Suggested rack: snake skin boots, Levis, 80 meter rope, 12 pack of Coors, triples from grey Metolius to #6 Camalot (with extra finger-sized pieces), a tobacco product of your choice, Loweballs, and Hand Jammies. A Monument classic!

Location: UT : Zion National Park : Mountain of the Sun : Eye Shadow (5.9 A2 PG13)
By: Vic When: Mar 25, 2012

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Comments: Cameron,

It wasn't a bad time... an adventure for sure, but definitely worth it. With a few more days in Zion we probably would have tried to stick it out on the route.


Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : Colorado National Monument : Grand View Spire : Southwest Defile Route (5.8 C2)
By: Vic When: Mar 22, 2012

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Comments: These bolts are definitely not that inspiring, but they're a pretty cool relic of the original ascent... 50+ year old star dryvins with homemade angle iron hangers. Perhaps someone could replace the rivet/hangerless bolt below the two star dryvins with a solid bolt and leave the others in place for character. Just a thought. This is a cool route that's definitely worth doing, although not quite as good (or hard) as its neighboring route Relics. Also, #5 cam = old #5.

Location: UT : Zion National Park : Mountain of the Sun : Eye Shadow (5.9 A2 PG13)
By: Vic When: Jan 31, 2012

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Comments: My buddy and I gave this thing a go last week. We only got up nine pitches, over two days, but it was a wild and interesting adventure. A few notes: Most of the pitches were longer, looser, harder and shittier hauling than we expected.

We didn't find much "4th class" to speak of. You can lead to the large ledge on the top of pitch two with a 70 m, then toss the haul line back down and make one 60 m haul from the ground. It still sucks. The crack/chimney climbing on 3 & 4 is pretty fun an... more >>

Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : McInnis Canyons : Little Bighorn (A1)
By: Vic When: Mar 28, 2011

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Comments: The anchor on the summit was backed up with a new bolt at some point since '05, so no need for the hand drill. I left a few extra pieces of paper in the summit register. This is a cool little tower, definitely worth checking out. To approach, park at the unmarked dirt pullout just 100 yards past King View Drive on the right, if you're heading towards the West Entrance. Take the trail through the break in the fence that's marked with a Monument sign. Follow trail K1 to K7 and enter Kodel's C... more >>

Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : Colorado National Monument : Liberty Cap : Safeway Spire - Five Finger... (5.10+ C2-)
By: Vic When: Mar 24, 2011

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Comments: The first pitch seemed to go at about 5.9, C1 in and out of the aiders quite a bit. There's definitely some mandatory free climbing up in the dirty chimney getting out to the bolt ladder, but no mandatory 5.10+ anywhere. Also, you can get down off this thing with one 70m rope in 4 rappels (the first and last raps are pretty close). This route was a lot of fun.

Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Blue Mesa (near Gunnison) : South Rim : The Real Blue Creek (WI4-5)
By: Vic When: Feb 16, 2011

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Comments: To avoid any private land issues, it's possible to approach The Real Blue Creek by parking at mile marker 124, where the canyon narrows on US Hwy 50 (parking for the Curecanti Monster) Descend the steep hill and follow the creek towards Blue Mesa. It's about a 1.5 to 2 hours on snowshoes to get to the Real Blue Creek, and you pass some other little smears and stuff down there as well (perhaps the Yellow Fang?). The Real Blue Creek was looking fat as of yesterday!

Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Black Canyon National Park ... : Gandalf's Beard (WI4-5)
By: Vic When: Feb 1, 2011

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Comments: A few things to add - If you waited to do this route until February or March, you could climb the entire route at WI3ish, if that's what you wanted to do. By mid to late December, both pitches of this route are usually climbable, and this year the route was in before you could really ski the road out to the climb. In December/January, expect the bottom pitch to be an ice runnel with some mixed climbing at the top as you move out left. There's some great rock gear placements on the first pitch... more >>

Contributed Forum Posts

Topic Title Forum Author Date
re: New Guidebook for the Black Canyon!ColoradoVicJul 15, 2016
New Guidebook for the Black Canyon!General ClimbingVicJun 26, 2016
New Guidebook for the Black Canyon!ColoradoVicJun 19, 2016
re: Learn me something about walls in Zion!Southern Utah DesertsVicMar 24, 2016
Black Canyon fall season...ColoradoVicSep 23, 2015
re: Black Canyon: Quota routeColoradoVicMar 25, 2015
2014 Amended Black Canyon Climbing Closures...ColoradoVicMay 20, 2014
re: Black canyon conditionsColoradoVicApr 7, 2013
re: The 2012-13 Colorado Ice Conditions Thread ColoradoVicJan 15, 2013
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