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Member Since: Jan 20, 2006
Last Visit: 1 day ago
Contact Tzilla Rapdrilla

Point Rank: # 976
Total Points: 840

76 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3



Where has Tzilla Rapdrilla been climbing?










Contributions


All 1050 | Routes 63 | Areas | Approach Trails | Photos 42 | Page Improvements | Comments 299 | Posts 255 | Stars 294 | Ratings 97
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Colorado : South Platte : Wigwam Creek/Lost Creek Wil... : Wigwam Dome : Trail of Tears (5.8)
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: 1 day ago

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Comments: Nice additional info on the pitches, but this route really isn’t all that sketchy. We did it in January with snow and very short days. My trad game was as rusty as my aged elbow joints then and I didn’t find the direct dihedral pitch to be a big deal and climbed at a good pace. The chimney was full of ice, so we did the finger crack which was pretty straightforward too. The final pitch involves some thoughtful route finding but nothing scary. A competent 5.9 trad leader should be able to do ... more >>


Location: Colorado : South Platte : Devil's Head : The Shaft : Coal (5.12b)
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: Sep 25, 2017

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Comments: I went back and did this route last weekend, probably the first time since doing the FA back in the '90s, and I think I rated it based on staying very true to the bolt line down low. Avoiding the flakes to the left completely is rather contrived, and using the most obvious holds while not straying too far from the bolts is definitely easier than 12b and more like 11d.


Location: Wyoming : Eastern Big Horns : Steamboat Point
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: Sep 20, 2017

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Comments: If you lost a piece of jewelry at Steamboat this summer PM me


Location: Colorado : South Platte : Devil's Head : Devil's Gate Sector
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: Sep 13, 2017

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Comments: Getting back a small fraction of the $20,000 - $30,000 I've invested in hardware there over the years doesn't seem like the wrong motivation for me. Most importantly getting some remuneration for the hours spent cleaning the routes, the real work, sometimes an hour for each 10' of route is more important. All that apparently pales in comparison compared to the effort needed to critique on the internet it seems.


Location: Colorado : Telluride/Norwood area : Bear Creek : Sesame Street : Mr. Snuffleupagus (5.11c)
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: Sep 7, 2017

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Comments: The 7' faded tatt sling should be replaced with another protection bolt the next time someone is up there with a drill.


Location: Colorado : South Platte : Devil's Head
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: Sep 7, 2017

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Comments: New parking lot at Mile Marker 10 - The USFS has completed the new lot at the Mile Marker 10 site used for Lower West Side Access, allowing room for a lot more cars. The new lot is just past the campsite #36. There isn't a "P" sign there yet, but I imagine they just haven't gotten around to it yet. It should be noted that this is not a legal campsite and was built for climber parking, so there is no need to park at non-designated sites along the road. Kudos to the USFS for gett... more >>


Location: Colorado : South Platte : Devil's Head : Chicken Head Ranch : The Crystal Key (5.12a)
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: Sep 7, 2017

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Comments: I think it was abandoned after sussing the route out and finding the crystal that went better. Still awaits an FA although I don't think it will be easier.


Location: Colorado : South Platte : Devil's Head : Devil's Gate Sector
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: Sep 7, 2017

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Comments: You mean the guide that paid for the bolts on almost all the routes there?


Location: Kentucky : Red River Gorge : Muir Valley : Sunnyside : BLM (5.11c)
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: Sep 5, 2017

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Comments: Bolt Like Mad


Location: Colorado : South Platte : Devil's Head : Hole in the Wall : Dragonslayer (5.11d)
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: Aug 14, 2017

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Comments: The original rating assumes going straight up on the final panel, which is admittedly a bit contrived. It is possible to avoid that on both the left and right, reaching over to make the clips.


Location: Wyoming : Lander Area : Wild Iris
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: Jul 25, 2017

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Comments: I second the comment about the road. I got two flat tires last summer just after going onto Limestone Mountain road and driving thru the camping area. I think there is the distinct possibility that the road is being sabotaged. The trials bikers were helpful in fixing one flat so I could make it to town.


Location: Europe : France : Southern Alps : Ceuse
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: Jun 18, 2017

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Comments: For those seeking some newer routes with more friendly bolting there are about ten sectors to the right or north that have great routes. They are not covered by the Rockfax book, but are in the Ceuse only book. The newer routes are also less polished.


Location: Colorado : South Platte : Devil's Head : The Training Grounds : Photo
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: Jun 17, 2017

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Comments: Looks like K2 to me.


Location: Colorado : South Platte : Devil's Head : Sin City : Revelation Route (5.11a)
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: Apr 15, 2017

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Comments: I've always rapped the route. It is possible to walk off toward Recovery Wall if you do the final two sideways easy pitches and then rap off to the north. BTW this particular crag is closed for raptor nesting in the spring.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lost Rock : Salami Mami (5.12-)
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: Mar 22, 2017

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Comments: Couldn't figure out a way to get past the 3rd bolt without going over into the gully with my left foot. It's a long ways up to the next holds, and the horizontal is at shoulder height, kind of a high step for 12-. What was I missing?

FWIW - the anchor hardware is gone except for the bolts and hangers. It may be possible to utilize the anchors on the route to the right, but that would be difficult.


Location: Colorado : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Crosier Mountain Crags : Main Crag : Servile Dihedral (5.9)
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: Mar 15, 2017

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Comments: Did a lot of cleaning on the crux of this one yesterday, didn't show much evidence of previous traffic, and maybe it's only been done once. The remnants of the bush are gone as well as a lot of the lichen on the footholds and in the gear placements. Great stone!


Location: Colorado : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Crosier Mountain Crags
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: Mar 15, 2017

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Comments: Really great stone up there, wish there was more of it around the vicinity, way better than the Monastery.


Location: Europe : France : Southern Alps : Ceuse
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: Mar 11, 2017

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Comments: What sort of daytime temps should one expect in early June?


Location: Colorado : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Live Action Wall
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: Mar 10, 2017

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Comments: This wall was still very much a work in progress when I recorded info for the currently most up-to-date print guidebook. There is a second pitch above Absent Minded Professor and two routes to the left now, one with a fun move above a low roof. I took a small wire brush to a few of the left side routes on Wednesday hopefully making them even better than they already were. The stone on the left side of the wall is pretty good by CCC standards, and the routes are a lot of fun. Thanks for all the h... more >>


Location: Colorado : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : December Wall : Mnemonic Plague (5.9+)
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: Feb 4, 2017

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Comments: The cracks on the upper part of the pitch need some serious cleaning to unearth protection spots and holds. I cleaned them some today in the rain/snain, but a real cleaning would make this pitch more worthwhile. The stone is very good though.


Location: Colorado : South Platte : Wigwam Creek/Lost Creek Wil... : Wigwam Dome : Trail of Tears (5.8)
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: Jan 31, 2017

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Comments: I really liked going up the corner on P3, the upper part didn't seem any harder than the terrain below, and the pro was good.


Location: Colorado : South Platte : Devil's Head : Black Wave Wall : Black Wave (5.11a)
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: Nov 28, 2016

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Comments: It is important to note that the top anchors for his route are Metolius Rap Anchors, perfectly suitable for rappelling or lowering. They look like overgrown regular bolt hangers and have a radius similar to a carabiner. I recently removed two taped biners from the anchor that would utterly snarl a rope.


Location: Colorado : South Platte : Devil's Head : Recovery Wall : Ya Lives (5.10d)
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: Nov 26, 2016

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Comments: I have found the upper pitch well worth doing, not quite as good as P1, but the small bit of South Platte Kitty litter is easily passed with big positive holds.


Location: Colorado : South Platte : Devil's Head : Chicken Head Ranch : Yellow Dot (5.12b)
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: Nov 26, 2016

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Comments: FA- Tod Anderson & Gordon Anderson, yellow is Gordy's favorite color.


Location: Colorado : South Platte : Devil's Head : Chicken Head Ranch : Wishbone Dihedral (5.11b)
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: Nov 26, 2016

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Comments: If you do this on gear, just don't fall on the upper half of the route. Also, the now possible gear placements on the crux were full of rocks until I cleaned them out, but they are nice finger locks.


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