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Member Since: Feb 11, 2008
Last Visit: 5 days ago
Contact Tony Yeary

Tony Yeary
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Point Rank: # 1,082
Total Points: 665

305 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



Where has Tony Yeary been climbing?










Contributions


All 201 | Routes 2 | Areas 1 | Photos 139 | Page Improvements | Comments 21 | Posts 19 | Stars 17 | Ratings 2

Contributed Comments

 

Location: California : Inland Empire : Mount Rubidoux : Joe Brown and Half Dome Are... : Half Dome Boulder : Steck-Salathe (5.9)
By: Tony Yeary When: Jun 12, 2017

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Comments: This has been a boulder/top rope problem since I started climbing at Rubidoux in the early 70's. There have been several bolt anchors on the top for top roping for at least 42 years that I personally can attest to. In addition to being completely unnecessary, the two lower bolts are poorly spaced. This is a very slippery slope and a bad precedent.


Location: South America : Peru : Cordillera Blanca
By: Tony Yeary When: Aug 15, 2016

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Comments: Thanks Sarah. Very useful. And thanks for your recent contributions to the Blanca page! Well done!


Location: California : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : (g) West Face : West Face - Right Side : Shit for Brains (5.10b)
By: Tony Yeary When: Aug 4, 2016

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Comments: Just did this route today for the first time in many years. We used a small cam in the pod to protect the friction to the first bolt. Old school, friction and runout face climbing. It's a good pitch. No sap today!


Location: California : Los Angeles Basin : Angeles National Forest : Rock Garden
By: Tony Yeary When: Mar 5, 2016

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Comments: I think the Rock Garden is a fine outing when combined with a hike of Baldy or just a workout hike to the hut. Yes, it's not a great singular destination, yes the boulders are jumbled and it might be inconvenient to move easily from one to another, but that's how it can be in the alpine arena. For local alpine bouldering at 8k, it's not bad for So Cal.


Location: South America : Peru : Cordillera Blanca : Photo
By: Tony Yeary When: Mar 11, 2015

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Comments: George, there are at least two routes on this face and the East Ridge(right skyline) as well. Cheers, TYeary


Location: South America : Peru : Cordillera Blanca
By: Tony Yeary When: Feb 28, 2015

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Comments: Alan, your comments are right on and I have amended the description above. Thanks so much!. Tony
Edit, Three of those killed on Huascaran in '02 were friends of mine. Conditions are such, now days, that later in the season can provide better snow conditions, especially if it's a NON El Nino year.


Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Cap Rock Area : Cap Rock : ... : Retirement (5.10a PG13)
By: Tony Yeary When: Mar 6, 2014

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Comments: " prolly a/b if the bolt was higher it would be a solid B"
Really? You probably want to think this one through. Fun climb anyway!


Location: California
By: Tony Yeary When: Nov 3, 2011

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Comments: Please make plans to join us!
The Southwest Section of The American Alpine Club

Annual section dinner
December 4, 2011 6:00 p.m.
Taix French Restaurant
1911 West Sunset Boulevard
Los Angeles, CA 90026
(213) 484-1265


Appetizers and a no host bar will be available at 6:00 with dinner starting at 6:30 follo... more >>


Location: South America : Peru : Cordillera Blanca : Ishinca Valley : Ishinca, 5530m Northwest S...
By: Tony Yeary When: Aug 3, 2011

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Comments: Thanks Wayne, for keeping me honest! Don't know what happened with the route lenght value! I thought when done as a traverse, it was a great outing. True, there generally are no technical difficulties, but it is beautiful with great views, and it provides the needed acclimatization .


Location: South America : Peru : Cordillera Blanca : Ishinca Valley : Southeast Slopes to East Ri... : Photo
By: Tony Yeary When: Jun 27, 2009

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Comments: The climber is just below the small rock buttress on the East Ridge. The summit, mixed snow and rock, can be seen up and to the left.


Location: California : Inland Empire : Big Rock Area : Main Slab : Toprope Problem (5.10c R)
By: Tony Yeary When: Jun 9, 2009

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Comments: Not to be rude, but I think this route is thiner and harder than Edger Sanction at 10a. Not as sustained, but way thiner. 10c/d is about right,IMO. I lead this back before there were two bolts on the route. A real attention graber! Even with the two bolts, it's still a rush.


Location: California : Inland Empire : Big Rock Area : Main Slab : Photo
By: Tony Yeary When: Apr 19, 2009

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Comments: Crotalus Ruber: Red Diamondback.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part D - Xanad... : ... : Photo
By: Tony Yeary When: Mar 30, 2009

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Comments: Nice, Wayne.
Say, your hair looking a bit silver there. Must be the digital camera settings, eh? All kidding aside, the route looks great! I'm tipping a Gin and Tonic right now.
Cheers, Tony


Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : Belle Campground Area : Belle Campground : Castle Rock : ... : That Old Soft Shoe (5.10d)
By: Tony Yeary When: Mar 10, 2009

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Comments: I just did this route on 3-8. I'd done it several times before, but not in the last 20 years. It does seem to have gotten a bit smoother over the years. For me the crux is between the 4 and 5th bolt. The pull over the 1st bolt is thin and sharp but it's all there and just takes some grunting. I guess it's the style crux above that taxes my aging body!
5.11a....I don't know about that. I've done a lot of 11a's that seemed harder. 10d seems about right. Count Dracula, next door, seems harder, for ... more >>


Location: South America : Peru : Cordillera Blanca : Photo
By: Tony Yeary When: Feb 25, 2009

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Comments: This is the evening view from the crows nest at Zarela's. I never get tired of the view from up here.


Location: South America : Peru : Cordillera Blanca : Photo
By: Tony Yeary When: Feb 25, 2009

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Comments: Cafe Andino. 3rd best cafe in Huaraz.


Location: South America : Peru : Cordillera Blanca : Photo
By: Tony Yeary When: Jun 2, 2008

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Comments: No shit..... there I was!


Location: South America : Peru : Cordillera Blanca : Photo
By: Tony Yeary When: May 19, 2008

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Comments: This guy's been operating this stand for 15 years. I've been eating burgers there for 8 years and I'm still not quite sure what a "sex burger" is. I guess at this point it doesn't matter much. They are great though!
Tony


Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Echo Rock : Echo Rock - West Face : The Falcon and The Snowman (5.10c PG13)
By: Tony Yeary When: Mar 5, 2008

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Comments: Great route. A bit run out but not horrific. I thought the crux, for me, is the pull past the first bolt. After that it's text book JT friction and edges. It will keep your attention!


Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Echo Rock : Echo Rock - West Face : Heart and Sole (5.10a)
By: Tony Yeary When: Mar 5, 2008

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Comments: Rick Graham and I did this route on 3-2-08. First time climbing with Rick in 28 years and last time I climbed Heart and Sole was 15 years ago. Nice to revisit old friends and climbs. Great fun. Nice lead Rick. Just like the old days(almost)! The climb was as I remembered. Always interesting, never really hard, and most of all, fun.


Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Hall of Horrors Area : Hall of Horrors : ... : Diamond Dogs (5.10a)
By: Tony Yeary When: Feb 11, 2008

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Comments: Just did this route again for the first time in 10 or 15 years. What a great line. I forgot how much fun it is! I'd give 4 out 5 stars. 5.9-10a. Not "R" though.


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