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Member Since: Jul 12, 2009
Last Visit: May 14, 2017
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twellman
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Point Rank: # 3,282
Total Points: 160

8 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



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Contributions


All 1099 | Routes 9 | Areas | Photos 15 | Page Improvements | Comments 141 | Posts 3 | Stars 799 | Ratings 132
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Asia : Thailand : Laem Phra Nang (Railey and ... : Tonsai Bay : Tonsai Beach (Freedom Bar A... : ... : I no speak England (5.10d)
By: twellman When: Feb 26, 2017

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Comments: Interesting climbing, but the awkwardly hard start right above a pool of gross black Tonsai ectoplasm detracts a bit. Be careful when pulling your rope to keep it on the platform and out of the water!


Location: Asia : Thailand : Laem Phra Nang (Railey and ... : Tonsai Bay : Melting Wall : Cross Eyed (5.12b)
By: twellman When: Feb 26, 2017

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Comments: An epic climb. Working hard from the bottom to the rest at mid-height, then the pumpathon to the top begins. The current anchor placement requires you to pull the last hard moves after the slopey jugs, and this may be the overall crux if you are sufficiently pumped (I was).


Location: Asia : Thailand : Laem Phra Nang (Railey and ... : Tonsai Bay : Cat Wall : Heart of Darkness (5.11c)
By: twellman When: Feb 26, 2017

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Comments: Climbed the first 4 pitches and rapped with a single 60 meter rope... thought this was relevant to mention because everyone says double ropes are required. A 70m is only needed for the last pitch. Cleaning pitch 2 was sort of a pain, but so is bringing two ropes...

Amazing outing, pretty unreal to climb overhanging rock for so many pitches. Go do it!


Location: Asia : Thailand : Laem Phra Nang (Railey and ... : Tonsai Bay : Ao Nang Tower : Orange Chandeliers (5.11b)
By: twellman When: Feb 26, 2017

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Comments: Agree with comment above - though there are better multi-pitch climbs in Tonsai, this is a unique and worthwhile outing.

Rent a kayak in Tonsai (400 baht/day), not in Ao Nang (1000 baht/day).


Location: Asia : Thailand : Laem Phra Nang (Railey and ... : Railay West : The Thaiwand : Lord of the Thai's (5.12b)
By: twellman When: Feb 26, 2017

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Comments: Did the first three pitches, and we were able to get down with a 60m, though with some shenanigans (not straightforward).

Pitches 2 and 3 are awesome, and seemed of similar difficulty to me and my partner. Enjoy the unreal views!


Location: Asia : Thailand : Laem Phra Nang (Railey and ... : Railay West : The Thaiwand : Equatorial (5.11b)
By: twellman When: Feb 26, 2017

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Comments: Awesome, long, pumpy route. Felt like solid 11b to me, the pump sneaks up on you!


Location: Asia : Thailand : Laem Phra Nang (Railey and ... : Phra Nang Beach : Happy Island : Land of Smiles (5.12b)
By: twellman When: Feb 26, 2017

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Comments: Some wild and unique beta on the tufas in the lower section! The rest is not a pumpfest, as described above, but is almost a gimme if you can get through the bottom.


Location: Asia : Thailand : Laem Phra Nang (Railey and ... : Phra Nang Beach : Happy Island : Kingfisher (5.12a)
By: twellman When: Feb 26, 2017

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Comments: This is a great route, sustained but never desperate. A nice change from the short overhanging routes on Tonsai.

The tourists on Phra Nang beach will watch you all the way up this one. If you're lucky, you might even get a round of applause.


Location: Asia : Thailand : Chiang Mai : Crazy Horse General Area : Heart Wall : Ruam Jai (Community) (5.10c)
By: twellman When: Jan 9, 2017

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Comments: Fun outing. First pitch felt pumpy for the grade, second pitch felt quite soft. Nice views from the top.


Location: Asia : Thailand : Chiang Mai : Crazy Horse General Area : The Furnace : Solarise (5.10c)
By: twellman When: Jan 9, 2017

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Comments: In contrast to the above description, I thought the first few clips were easy, then the slabby black rock had some tricky moves on small holds before reaching the jug haul finish.


Location: Asia : Thailand : Chiang Mai : Crazy Horse General Area : Anxiety State Crisis Cave : Anxiety State Crisis (5.11d)
By: twellman When: Jan 9, 2017

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Comments: Do this one! (and bring prussiks or something to ascend if you aren't solid at the grade. most falls will leave you dangling)


Location: Asia : Thailand : Chiang Mai : Crazy Horse General Area : The Ant Hill : The Absent Minded Bolter (5.12a)
By: twellman When: Jan 9, 2017

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Comments: There is a move between the last two bolts that is ridiculous for short folks. A fun deadline/dyno if you can make it though! I wouldn't call it a nails-thin boulder problem.


Location: Asia : Thailand : Chiang Mai : Crazy Horse General Area : Aircon Wall : Foaming at the Mouth (5.11c)
By: twellman When: Jan 9, 2017

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Comments: If you follow the description above, climbing straight up to the tufa and using it as a chimney / rest on your way to the corner above (seems like the obvious natural line), you won't find yourself positioned as in the photo, and you'll be reaching wide right to clip two of the bolts. Seemed like 5.10 climbing it this way... following the bolts directly makes for a pretty contrived crux (which is also part of the linkup Foaming Pumpus).


Location: New Hampshire : WM: North Conway : Humphrey's Ledge : The Dedication Area : Robinson Crusoe (5.10b PG13)
By: twellman When: Jun 30, 2016

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Comments: I feel inclined to give an alternative opinion on why this route is an excellent multipitch outing, to offset some previous comments:
1. There is fun, engaging climbing of a consistent grade on all pitches.
2. The exposure and movement on pitch 2 in the stemming section is super fun and exciting (check out the cover photo!)
3. The gear is good in the hard parts, yet still leaves it a bit exciting (this is NoCo, not Rumney).
4. The belay ledges and anchors are comfy and safe and new.
5. The Dizz-... more >>


Location: Colorado : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : The Pages Wall Area : ... : Photo
By: twellman When: Apr 26, 2016

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Comments: Not sure why people always comment about the rope behind the leg on here. The person in the picture is not going to remove their leg from behind the rope no matter how many people comment on it.


Location: New Hampshire : *Cannon Cliff : 2. Duet Area etc : Raven Crack (5.9+)
By: twellman When: Jun 27, 2015

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Comments: 4 stars for the chimney to layback pitch. I agree with Andrea that a bolt anchor atop this pitch would be ideal, as the last pitch is only good for the first 30 feet then degrades into loose rock everywhere. Overall a very worthwhile Cannon adventure with great pro on the hard parts.


Location: Massachusetts : Quincy Quarries : K Wall (aka M Face) : Tensile Strength (5.9+)
By: twellman When: Jun 8, 2015

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Comments: The new bolts are especially disappointing because: (1) They start on Tensile Strength and finish on Pins, not following the original line of Tensile Strength. No one would have argued with replacing those old bolts with quality gear, but putting in a new link-up is poor form. (2) The bolting job is not the best. A couple are spinners, a couple are not perpendicular to the rock, and the nuts are suspiciously close to the ends of the studs on others. Also, the anchor below the top is silly given ... more >>


Location: Massachusetts : Quincy Quarries : Q Wall : Thank You, Scott (5.12- R)
By: twellman When: Jun 8, 2015

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Comments: You can climb it with or without the drill hole, and it is easier if you use it. Whether it is "on" is a matter of personal preference.

There are 2 glue in bolts about 3 feet right of the crack. I am not sure what was going through the head of the person that placed them. The first one needs to be stick clipped (~12 feet up), and the second one can't be clipped until you reach the ledge (~20 feet up), risking groundfall if you fall going for it. And they are out of reach if you are climbing the... more >>


Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : Pulse Wall : Toy Story (5.9) : Photo
By: twellman When: May 18, 2015

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Comments: Nice extension. Gotta watch out for the drag on this one...


Location: New York : The Gunks : The Trapps : d. Strictly - Shockley's : Anguish (5.8 PG13)
By: twellman When: Apr 20, 2015

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Comments: Last pitch is indeed not obvious to find. It is about 20 feet right of a small tree on the GT ledge, 10 feet left around the corner from three pines anchor, as described above. I also thought this pitch was harder than 5.8, with tricky pro and potential for falling back onto the GT ledge. But super fun anyway!


Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : Infinity Wall : Upper Right : Gettin' Started (5.6)
By: twellman When: Jul 14, 2014

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Comments: Yup there is now a 2-bolt anchor atop this one.


Location: New Hampshire : WM: North Conway : Humphrey's Ledge : The Geriatric Walls : Put My Foot Where? (5.10a)
By: twellman When: Jul 7, 2014

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Comments: Slightly overhanging? This is most certainly a slab climb, with slabby crux moves.


Location: Massachusetts : Leominster Area : Crow Hill : 3. Fisherman's Wall : Jane (5.11a PG13)
By: twellman When: May 13, 2014

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Comments: I second Kevin's opinion that the gear is great on this, no way it's PG-13. In fact, I would even say it's a good first 5.11 lead. You can even scope most of the gear from the ground (primarily finger-sized pieces).

A lot of fun moves are crammed in those first 40 feet to the anchor!


Location: Nevada : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : Lotta Balls Wall : Bruja's Brew (5.9)
By: twellman When: Apr 1, 2014

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Comments: I though this route was easily as good as Lotta Balls and Black Magic. Great variety on the first pitch (don't miss the bolt around the corner once the Lotta Balls anchor is in sight), spicy second pitch, WILD but easy 3rd pitch, and fun easy corner to finish. Overall a great route with some spicy easier climbing but good pro for the hard parts.


Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : Monsters from the Id : Heaven (5.11a) : Photo
By: twellman When: Feb 20, 2014

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Comments: He looks pretty happy in the corner to me... in fact, one might even say he's in heaven.


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