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Member Since: Jul 12, 2009
Last Visit: Apr 13, 2017
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twellman
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Point Rank: # 3,254
Total Points: 160

8 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



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All 1099 | Routes 9 | Areas | Photos 15 | Page Improvements | Comments 141 | Posts 3 | Stars 799 | Ratings 132
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : Triple Corners
By: twellman When: Sep 29, 2009

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Comments: I was at the top of the gully the other day climbing skunks, and noticed a few routes left of it that I couldnt seem to find here. There is a line of bolts going straight up the arete around the corner to the left of skunks (looks hard!), and there is a monster chimney even further left that had some bolts. Probably these are in the guidebook, but it would be cool if someone familiar with them added the info here too.


Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : Jimmy Cliff : Things You Should Have Lear... (5.6)
By: twellman When: Jul 30, 2009

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Comments: If there is no one on the route to the right, you can throw a long sling on one of those bolts and traverse back left onto this route, to avoid the groundfall potential when passing that missing second bolt.

Or, you could climb one of the other 10,000 awesome routes at rumney!


Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : The Prudential : Nice Land (5.10b)
By: twellman When: Jul 27, 2009

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Comments: A very fun and varied route. The crux is getting off the ground, or so I thought. There's also some fun and tricky moves in the corner near the top.


Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : The Prudential : Finland (5.11a/b)
By: twellman When: Jul 27, 2009

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Comments: I agree that it felt hard for an 11a. I think the awkward sandy topout at the top of the first section was the harder part. Otherwise, the opening power moves are tons of fun, and the stemming and laybacks near the top were classic. Definitely worth doing.

It is possible to set up a toprope for this one after doing niceland (10a) to the left, but you have to put draws on most of the bolts as you belay down, then unclip them as you climb.


Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : Triple Corners : Triple Corners Left : Amore Eel (5.10b)
By: twellman When: Jul 19, 2009

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Comments: Be careful of the tree behind and underneath you when clipping the 2nd bolt... if you fall backward at all, it might be in your path.

Otherwise, a fun route. Power crux, and fun un-rumney-like quartz at the top. Well done, Mark.


Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : Triple Corners : Triple Corners Left : Man With a Hueco in His Tig... (5.11a)
By: twellman When: Jul 19, 2009

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Comments: An awesome short route! Gets easier as you go, so don't stop cranking! The start is very powerful and bouldery, with a few options. The clips arent too hard if you find some good heel hooks and or knee bars.


Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : Triple Corners : Triple Corners Right : Trigger Happy (5.9)
By: twellman When: Jul 19, 2009

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Comments: Solid 5.9 Like so many other climbs to the right, from the last bolt to the anchors might be the crux... who stole the holds from the top of this cliff?


Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : Triple Corners : Triple Corners Right : Dirty Dozen (5.10d)
By: twellman When: Jul 19, 2009

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Comments: I dont understand why the ratings arent better for this climb... It is long, technical, pumpy, well-bolted, all the elements of a classic climb. I think this is my favorite route at triple corners. There is a 25 foot runout between bolts 4 and 5, with about 5.3 climbing in between. I guess you could throw a sling around the tree midway if you don't feel like dying, but I'm pretty sure I encountered harder moves on the hike up.

DO THIS ROUTE!!!


Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : Triple Corners : Triple Corners Right : Perfectly Blunt (5.10d)
By: twellman When: Jul 19, 2009

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Comments: Don't make the mistake of trying to go straight to the anchors after the last bolt... the micro-crimps quickly fade into nothing. It is much easier, though not easy, to move right to the arete then head up. The description in the guidebook is perfect... technical and devious!


Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : The Parking Lot Wall : Easily Aroused (5.9)
By: twellman When: Jul 17, 2009

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Comments: I was climbing at dusk with a friend recently, and I hopped on this with my headlamp thinking it was one of the 5.7's that abound in this area... I remember thinking that it felt more like a 5.10 with some tough clips... so it must have been this route! Definitely some small holds but sufficient feet.


Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : 5.8 Crag : Bolt And Run (5.9)
By: twellman When: Jul 16, 2009

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Comments: It looks so slabby from the bottom, but doesnt feel that way while you're on it... maybe the lack of handholds. Overall, a nice Rumney-esque technique-requisite route.


Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : 5.8 Crag : Milktoast (5.10c/d)
By: twellman When: Jul 16, 2009

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Comments: About halfway up, you can find perhaps the best undercling I've ever laid my hands on, and get quite a good rest before attacking the few bouldery moves to conquer the bulge.


Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : 5.8 Crag : Romancing the Stone (5.10c)
By: twellman When: Jul 16, 2009

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Comments: An excellent climb! I'd say the climbing tends to get easier as you go, but you also get more pumped, so it feels like a nice constant difficulty the whole way through if you take your level of exhaustion into account. I'll be back on this again in the near future.


Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : The Parking Lot Wall : Espresso (5.10d)
By: twellman When: Jul 13, 2009

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Comments: I think you can skip the crimpy crux, which is below the 2nd to last bolt, with a fun dyno. The hold to the left of the 2nd to last bolt is good, and it's a fun fall if it turns out not to be good enough when you are pumping out!


Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : Waimea : Flying Hawaiian (5.11b)
By: twellman When: Jul 12, 2009

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Comments: I did this route this weekend, and it was amazing! Probably the hardest but most fulfilling 11b I have done. The rests definitely give you a little too much time to look up and start worrying, but as you make the clips you'll find yourself saying, well that wasnt as bad as it looked like it would be.

I was a bit confused by the topout though. I've seen many people mention a mantel move to exit. There are two triangular-looking outcrops above the last bolt, and I used the lower one, throwing a h... more >>


Contributed Forum Posts

Topic Title Forum Author Date
re: Chains as TR anchors: a problem?General ClimbingtwellmanOct 11, 2012
(old route) MesreshaEastern StatestwellmanSep 12, 2012
re: Bolting at Dumplington Hill, Raymond NHEastern StatestwellmanJul 12, 2012

Contributed Stars

Name Quality Location

Flying Hawaiian 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

New Hampshire : *Rumney : Waimea

Waimea 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

New Hampshire : *Rumney : Waimea

Dirty Dozen 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

New Hampshire : *Rumney : ... : Triple Corners Right

Electric Socks 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

New Hampshire : *Rumney : The Hinterlands

Jolt 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

New Hampshire : *Rumney : The Hinterlands

Dolt 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

New Hampshire : *Rumney : The Hinterlands

Giant Man 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

New Hampshire : *Rumney : The Hinterlands

Metamorphosis 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

New Hampshire : *Rumney : Armed and Dangerous Area (M...

Clip a Dee Doo Dah 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a

New Hampshire : *Rumney : Jimmy Cliff

Lady and the Tramp 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c

New Hampshire : *Rumney : Jimmy Cliff

Lonesome Dove 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

New Hampshire : *Rumney : Jimmy Cliff

Rock Du Jours Direct 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

New Hampshire : *Rumney : Main Cliff

Apocalypse Later 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a

New Hampshire : *Rumney : Apocalypse Walls

Centerpiece 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

New Hampshire : *Rumney : Bonsai

Flesh For Lulu 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a

New Hampshire : *Rumney : ... : Holderness Corner

Millenium Falcon 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

New Hampshire : *Rumney : Main Cliff

Sweet Polly Purebred 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

New Hampshire : *Rumney : Main Cliff

Underdog 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

New Hampshire : *Rumney : Main Cliff

Social Outcast 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

New Hampshire : *Rumney : Bonsai

Whip Tide 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

New Hampshire : *Rumney : Waimea

Thin Air 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

New Hampshire : *Cathedral Ledge : Thin Air Face

They Died Laughing 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

New Hampshire : *Cathedral Ledge : The North End

Recompense 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

New Hampshire : *Cathedral Ledge : The Prow Area

The Beast Flake 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

New Hampshire : *Cathedral Ledge : The Prow Area

Frog's Head 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

New York : The Gunks : ... : c. Frog's Head - the Arch

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