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Member Since: Jul 12, 2009
Last Visit: 4 days ago
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twellman
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Point Rank: # 3,480
Total Points: 140

8 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



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Contributions


All 1023 | Routes 7 | Areas | Photos 15 | Page Improvements | Comments 133 | Posts 3 | Stars 759 | Ratings 106
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : Apocalypse Walls : Captain Fingers (5.11c) : Photo
By: twellman When: Aug 27, 2010

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Comments: Wow... there are only 4 now, so how many were there, 2? One rope for each bolt! That would be a spicy adventure!


Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : Main Cliff : Ali Babbler (5.11c)
By: twellman When: Aug 20, 2010

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Comments: I like this route quite a bit, and definitely think it is worth climbing, despite the fact that there are better routes at the grade. There are always better routes at the grade, but that's not gonna stop me from climbing all those wonderful, uncrowded "worse" ones.

And I think the "vicious stemming," as the description says, sets this route apart from others. Flyin Hawaiian offers stemming, but if you're looking for the vicious stuff you'll find it on Ali Babbler.


Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : Armed and Dangerous Area (M... : Toxic Gumbo (5.8)
By: twellman When: May 27, 2010

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Comments: Is it possible to get to the ledge directly below Millennium Falcon from here? Does this route go just left of that ledge?


Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : Armed and Dangerous Area (M... : Maria's Variation (5.11a)
By: twellman When: May 24, 2010

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Comments: Lee, when did you sneak gear into that finger slot in the middle of the face... after you got your hands above it? It is pretty much the only solid hold on the face, so I guess you have to balance on the little crimps while you plug the gear?

This variation is really fun, and definitely worth trying on TR after you finish the normal route.


Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : Jimmy Cliff : Things I Never Learned (5.9)
By: twellman When: May 19, 2010

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Comments: There's a cool boulder problem to the right of the start that you can do on TR after climbing this route. You start under the bulge and make a big throw up to a sharp jug, then move up and left over the bulge back onto things I never learned. Unfortunately, I don't think there is room to put up a whole new route here with this start...


Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : Jimmy Cliff : Love Nest (5.9)
By: twellman When: May 19, 2010

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Comments: Where is the 5.9 crux of this route? I felt like the 5.9 part of to love honor and belay was in the first 20 feet above the ledge, but you would skip this part if you start on drilling... I'll have to check it out next time I'm there.


Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : Kennel Wall : The Big Angler (5.11a)
By: twellman When: May 18, 2010

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Comments: There are a couple of big ledges to stand on before the crux if you just take a step off to the right. They allow you to get fully rested before the crux, which then amounts to a quick boulder problem. This one felt quite different than its neighbor to the left, though about equally difficult. Both right on that 10d/11a line, and worth doing.


Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : Triple Corners : Triple Corners Left : Man With a Hueco in His Tig... (5.11a)
By: twellman When: May 10, 2010

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Comments: I think this route might actually feel more like 10d, especially when you know the moves... there is no way in hell it is as hard as Flyin Hawaiin. Stick clipping the second bolt, which is not a bad idea with that rock below you, makes it considerably easier.


Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : Orange Crush : Lions and Tigers and Bears (5.11b)
By: twellman When: Apr 28, 2010

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Comments: Where do you belay from? The double eyebolt anchor below orangahang? Or the bottom of the slab?


Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : The Meadows : Holderness Corner : Flesh For Lulu (5.12a/b)
By: twellman When: Apr 18, 2010

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Comments: So was the FA done with 2 bolts plus gear, or only 2 bolts on the whole climb?


Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : Waimea : Flying Hawaiian (5.11b)
By: twellman When: Apr 17, 2010

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Comments: Did this route for the second time today, and it was really fun. Definitely more of a mental game than a physical one, but there is just so much good climbing in this one line that you'd be at a loss if you missed out. So get on it!


Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : The Hinterlands : Hot Head (5.10c)
By: twellman When: Apr 17, 2010

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Comments: Some funky climbing, especially if you are tall. Also, if you don't use any extended draws, the rope drag is NASTY at the end. Definitely some cool moves in there though.


Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : Jimmy Cliff : Clip a Dee Doo Dah (5.3)
By: twellman When: Apr 14, 2010

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Comments: That's funny.... broke up with my girlfriend at the middle anchor of this one.... naturally I had to free solo the second pitch.... haha jk.

I think lady and the tramp actually has a bit of a better anchor for propositions, but that is quite a nice place ragardless! Congrats!


Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : The Crow's Nest : Scuttlebutt (5.6)
By: twellman When: Apr 13, 2010

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Comments: Why the PG13 rating? There are like 6 bolts in 30 feet. Perhaps because a fall would suck you into the chimney?

This route is really fun for how short it is. Also, felt a bit harder than 5.6 when done staying outside the chimney and stemming, but real fun nonetheless.


Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : Main Cliff : Rock Du Jours Direct (5.9+)
By: twellman When: Apr 11, 2010

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Comments: I noticed that two of the one-star votes were from people who only did the first pitch, according to their notes. I don't think it's fair to rate a climb based on only doing one half. You wouldn't climb flyin hawaiin up to the dihedral, then come down and say, "eh, it's just alright."

The second pitch is quite awesome, and I would agree with Mark that it vies for best 9 at Rumney. Super exposure, amazing views, awesome holds and a nice feeling of adventure, not to mention you get to top out mai... more >>


Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : Apocalypse Walls : Captain Fingers (5.11c)
By: twellman When: Apr 8, 2010

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Comments: Are you supposed to move out left to the arete near the top? I did, and it was nice!


Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : Apocalypse Walls : Captain Fingers (5.11c) : Photo
By: twellman When: Apr 8, 2010

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Comments: Is he using double ropes? On a sport route? Looks like it.....


Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : The Crow's Nest : Saint Elmo's Fire (5.11d)
By: twellman When: Apr 4, 2010

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Comments: Finally got on this climb today, and it was awesome! The bottom part is fun warm-up through the crux of Keel-Ho, then you get to the sweet undercling traverse. There are definitely sweet spots on the undercling, and finding them and avoiding the crappy parts is key to hanging on. The feet are pretty good the whole way, too.

If you want to do an 11d without any hard clips, this is a good one!


Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : The Crow's Nest : Ill Gotten Booty (5.9+)
By: twellman When: Apr 4, 2010

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Comments: The climb itself is nothing amazing, but the exposure and the view from the top definitely make it worth it. And how often do you get to pull on flakes that bend?


Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : The Crow's Nest : Calypso (5.10c)
By: twellman When: Apr 4, 2010

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Comments: Fun little climb. Sometimes the good holds are hard to find, and awkward to use. The crux over the last bulge feels pretty tough, and is probably much harder if you can't figure out a good sequence.


Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : The Crow's Nest : Saint Elmo's Fire (5.11d)
By: twellman When: Mar 23, 2010

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Comments: Haha St Elmo's Fire is a (classic) 80's song by John Parr. Don't listen to it though, cuz you won't be able to stop for at least 2 weeks.


Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : Starship Enterprise : Space...Madness (5.12b)
By: twellman When: Mar 23, 2010

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Comments: Nice addition, Lee. I've looked at those ledges a few times while at Starship and thought there might be some good climbing in there. I'll definitely give it a spin next time I'm out there and let you know what I think.


Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : Main Cliff : Underdog (5.10a) : Photo
By: twellman When: Mar 18, 2010

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Comments: Haha this is a good photo.... I recall many times groping around up there for a few seconds, and just as I start to worry, my hand sinks into that huge juggy part.... phew!!


Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : The Hinterlands : Electric Socks (5.8+)
By: twellman When: Mar 16, 2010

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Comments: I did this climb with my dad belaying me after teaching him how to belay 30 minutes earlier..... it was quite an adventure! The climb goes way out of sight and almost out of earshot of the belayer, so once you pull up onto the slab you have a nice moment of solitude with an amazing view to enjoy.

Get on it! Might be better than Junco...


Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : Main Cliff : Photo
By: twellman When: Mar 15, 2010

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Comments: I think this linkup is better than taking the gold digger finish. A good way to warm up, and get those stemming muscles going.


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