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Member Since: May 18, 2007
Last Visit: 18 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 560
Total Points: 1,415

72 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3

Where has tscupp been climbing?


All 1384 | Routes 57 | Areas 14 | Approach Trails | Photos 127 | Page Improvements | Comments 41 | Posts 16 | Stars 645 | Ratings 484
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Contributed Comments


Location: Colorado > Morrison/Evergreen > Alderfer/Three Sisters Park > Energy Crag > Crucifriction (V6-)
By: tscupp When: Aug 31, 2017

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Comments: The original starting left hand edge from the photo appears to have broken. There is now a decent left hand sidepull and a very small sloping crimp edge below it.

Location: Europe > Spain > Aragon > Riglos > Fiesta De Los Biceps (5.11d)
By: tscupp When: May 11, 2016

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Comments: A bit more about the breakdown and experience. All bolted belays are decent but usually still hanging due to the nature of the feature. Most will have a close bolt right after the belay to at least decrease risk of falling directly onto the belay. Well bolted through harder sections typically but can be a bit spaced through easier sections and although the rock is typically solid, the first 1-2 pitches and the last pitch have some frail rock so be careful since a fall here could send you sail... more >>

Location: Europe > Spain > Catalonia > Margalef > Raco de les Espadelles > Memoria Histerica (5.11a)
By: tscupp When: May 3, 2016

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Comments: Don't be deterred by the bouldery start. Feels a bit height dependent but both this and the neighbor to the left are much better once the starts are surpassed. Worth pulling through the beginning should that be the case.

Location: Kentucky > Red River Gorge > Miller Fork Recreational Pr... > The Portal > Singularity (5.12b/c)
By: tscupp When: Nov 10, 2015

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Comments: Pretty amazing line that delivers consistently juggy climbing through 8 bolts after the initially bouldery start. One of the steepest lines in the red that nearly goes as horizontal as vertical. Just hang on!

Location: Kentucky > Red River Gorge > Miller Fork Recreational Pr... > Fruit Wall > Jew Jew Fruit (5.10c)
By: tscupp When: Sep 1, 2015

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Comments: Route location is left of the main amphitheater, can start from the ledge next to just peachy mon or for full value you can start from the main trail up a crack to reach the ledge before the face.

Location: Kentucky > Red River Gorge > Graining Fork Nature Preser... > The Return of Chris Snyder (5.11d)
By: tscupp When: May 22, 2015

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Comments: Amazing route and best of the grade that I've been on at the red. While it is mostly a jug haul what separates it from most other climbs is the variety of movement and hold positions. Underclings and pinches with great thumb catches will see you to the top. The only minor detractors are a wet start and one damp hold in the roof. Don't miss this route!

Location: Kentucky > Red River Gorge > Pendergrass-Murray Recreati... > Solar Collector/Gold Coast > Decline of Western Civiliza... (5.10a)
By: tscupp When: Nov 16, 2014

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Comments: I believe this is the furthest left, not right line at SC.

Location: Kentucky > Red River Gorge > Pendergrass-Murray Recreati... > The Gallery > Mosaic (5.12c)
By: tscupp When: Mar 24, 2014

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Comments: There is now a cable permadraw at that last bolt which allows for you to clip at the 2 finger pocket. Good climb with potential for good air if you come up short on that final long move to the jug at the anchors.

Location: Kentucky > Red River Gorge > Military Wall > The Reliquary (5.12b)
By: tscupp When: Mar 16, 2014

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Comments: What a great route! I enjoyed this even more than tissue tiger and felt it was a bit harder. I wouldn't put it at 12c but it felt harder than some of the other 12c's I've done or been on at the red.

Just to add to description and some beta (don't read if you don't want to know): bouldery start getting past the second bolt on some slopey pinches with both a left or right variation depending on which hand goes in the two finger pocket before you return to the sea of chalked pockets with mostly ... more >>

Location: Kentucky > Red River Gorge > Muir Valley > The Solarium
By: tscupp When: Jun 30, 2013

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Comments: Be wary of wasps on the upper half of many of these routes during the summer.

Location: New Hampshire > *Rumney > The Northwest Territories > B-B-Buttress (5.9)
By: tscupp When: May 20, 2013

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Comments: Climbed this sunday and had similar experience as Ming. Messy start with a lack of a left foot unless you use the rotting tree/stump and even still it makes for a sketchy second clip with the first bolt not protecting much other than a tumble down hill. I tried to clean some holds of dirt but it will probably need a thorough cleaning either right or left before it feels good to climb.

Location: Kentucky > Red River Gorge > Funk Rock City > Eye of the Needle (5.11b)
By: tscupp When: May 4, 2013

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Comments: I'd recommend staying right and in the crack until you're about even with the third bolt. Trying to go up the left arete will probably put you in no holds land pretty quickly.

Location: New Hampshire > *Rumney > Main Cliff Right > High Roller (5.11c)
By: tscupp When: Jul 20, 2012

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Comments: I made a toss near the end of the crux sequence which was pretty memorable with all that space up there. The hold I threw to was a big flat left hand below the ledge that I matched afterwards. My partner went to it R handed and static but with my foot positioning it was easier to go L (and I'll venture more exciting). All-in-all, great route with wonderful positioning. I was lamenting that Rumney doesn't have as many classic 11+ as it does mid 12's but then you discover routes like this and ... more >>

Location: New Hampshire > *Rumney > Yellowknife Buttress > Yellowknife (5.10c)
By: tscupp When: Oct 2, 2011

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Comments: The description covers it very well, but this was the most fun I had on a Rumney route in quite a while. A bit of a Sport Climbing adventure from the mossy wet start, followed by the "loose flake" that you think the guidebook is referring to and then the REALLY loose flake. The upper third is pretty awesome and would be extremely popular if the rest of the route climbed so well with some great edges and no chalk giving that true onsight feel.

Highly recommend bringing a few long draws in the ... more >>

Location: New Hampshire > *Rumney > Waimea > Technosurfing (5.12b) > Photo
By: tscupp When: Mar 25, 2011

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Comments: Hey Lee, it was nice to finally meet ya. Congrats on the send!

Location: Rhode Island > Lincoln Woods > Peace Dove Area > Peace Dove Boulder > Warhawk (V5)
By: tscupp When: Nov 1, 2010

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Comments: The start is both awkward and strenuous - left handed undercling and right hand on the arete. Find some way to make you feet work for you (R heel around arete and low smear with left work for me). The final hold is the typical lincoln woods coarse granite so beware.

Location: New Hampshire > *Rumney > Orange Crush > Prime Climb (5.11b)
By: tscupp When: Sep 15, 2010

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Comments: Pleasantly deceptive. The slabby arete looks innocuous from the ground but contains some tricky moves and you can climb yourself into some irreversible situations if you don't think a few moves ahead.

Location: New Hampshire > *Rumney > Orange Crush > Tropicana (5.11a)
By: tscupp When: Aug 23, 2010

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Comments: Can you link both pitches and second with a 70m? I know it wouldn't really add any value to the climb because of the belay ledge but I'm just curious if it is possible.

Location: Massachusetts > Quincy Quarries > J Wall (aka L Face) > Ladder Line (5.11a)
By: tscupp When: Aug 15, 2010

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Comments: In the Boston Rocks 2nd ed., they list this as just 5.10. I'm glad to see I'm not the only one who thought this was WAY harder than that.

Location: New Hampshire > *Rumney > Waimea > Man Overboard (5.12d) > Photo
By: tscupp When: Aug 11, 2010

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Comments: It's a bit of a funny story - the climber meant to do whiptide, but didn't know it broke right so he ended up finishing on Man Overboard. I thought both use that hold though? Is it just that most finishing on Whip tide don't do the bat hang or is that hold not used?

Location: New Hampshire > *Rumney > The Hinterlands > Cold Shoulder (5.12b)
By: tscupp When: Aug 9, 2010

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Comments: Short but very crimpy. Even though there are a few eases in difficulty, I found it pretty sustained until you are just below the finish. Lee described the finish well - I took the right exit and didn't really know what I was holding on to but it just sort of worked until I could move up to a good crimp and the mantle.

Location: New Hampshire > *Rumney > The Hinterlands > Chicken Parts (5.10a)
By: tscupp When: Aug 9, 2010

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Comments: The low crux makes for a tricky onsight for the grade.

Location: New Hampshire > *Rumney > The Parking Lot Wall > Espresso (5.10d)
By: tscupp When: Aug 9, 2010

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Comments: This is sort of a nit-picky question but I'm curious as to what is considered the true line at the start? I did one way pretty close to the bolt line (maybe a little left) and found it very hard - much harder than anything else on the climb and a second way that was right of the bolt line and used a little bit of the rock to the side making it much easier but more consistent with the rest of the climb.

Any thoughts?

This is a great 10+, so much fun blasting through those monster jugs from th... more >>

Location: New Hampshire > *Cannon Cliff > 1. Whitney-Gilman Area > Whitney Gilman Ridge (5.7)
By: tscupp When: Aug 2, 2010

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Comments: I just wanted to add a little bit of info that comes from the Sykes guidebook. For the first pitch, which as Jay mentions feels harder than 5.4, it is 5.6 directly up the corner with the 5.6 move being in the first few feet before you reach the horizontal cracks - it can be a little unnerving as this part is sometimes damp and needs wider gear. To keep it at 5.4 or 5.5, hand traverse in from the right.

On pitch 2, the guidebook indicates that the right exposed crack is 5.6 and the left is 5.7... more >>

Location: Rhode Island > Lincoln Woods > Warm Up Area aka The Tomato... > Warm Up Cave > Photo
By: tscupp When: Jul 27, 2010

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Comments: I figured I'd add a few more climbs to the picture but not the page since I haven't done them.

Clutch V8 or 9 - Direct sit to Neil's Lunge - start on flat shelf/jug below the flake, make hard left handed move up to a pinch, join the flake and finish on NL.

Gassed Off V8 - Start on Cave roof's underclings, move right and join rump to jump on the undercling flakes. Alternatively, after you reach the flakes of Rump to Jump, move up and left to finish on New Direction (V7).

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